I'm planning a trip with my girlfriend to Israel and Jordan this coming August, and would liuke to get your opinions ont he following properties:
- Evason Ma'In Hot Springs
- Four Seasons Hotel Amman
- Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea
We are only in the region for a limited time, from August 14 to 31. We'll be spending 7 nights in Tel Aviv and at least 4 nights in Jerusalem. We'll be spending at least one full day and possibly even overnight in Petra / Wadi Musa as well. I was considering a private bedouin style tented camp in Wadi Rum too, but we'll probably pass on it as we are on a tight schedule with limited time in the area.
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts, opinions and feedback on the above properties, as well as your recommendations for the amount of time needed to comfortably visit each of the above (if worthwhile!), and considering our time restraint in the region!
Lastly, what are your opinions of the American Colony Hotel in Jerusalem? It looks to be the only property in the city which might qualify for discussion in this particular forum. We are looking at a Pasha Deluxe Room with Balcony. I've heard that staying in the Christian/Arab quarter is not the best way to experience the city however, and we should instead forfeit our usual hotel considerations for a generic room which is better situated in the Jewish part of the city, amongst the shops and crowds. Would you concur with this point of view?
Thanks!!
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 6:40 pm
And lastly, any updates on the Al Manara, Aqaba?
Is the city still worth visiting even if the property is not ready or should we pass on this given that we'll only have a few days (less than a week) to tour Jordan after spending a full 10 nights in Tel Avivi and Jerusalem?
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 6:57 pm
Also, which Dead Sea property is most recommended - the Kempinski Aqaba or Ishtar?
Is it worth staying a night at both and if so, is the driving distance reasonable and fesible??
Groombridge
Apr 9, 12, 7:17 pm
Any reason you are not considering the Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem? It really seems to be the only luxury option in Jerusalem, although I cannot speak firsrhand
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 7:33 pm
Any reason you are not considering the Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem? It really seems to be the only luxury option in Jerusalem, although I cannot speak firsrhand
The Mamilla is indeed an option, but looks a bit too 'trying hard to be modern boutiquey and western' and not ideally what I'm looking for in an Ancient city. I'd prefer something more reflective of Middle Eastern culture in architecture and design. I'm also not wild about the voyeur fishbowl bathrooms, and don't want to stay anywhere where there'll be bass vibrations from punping house music floating up from the lobby at 2am. I could be completely misguided about the property though. I haven't explored our Jerusalem leg of the trip as much yet, because it's the easiest part of planning. Jordan is what's giving me the biggest headache.
I want to visit the lost city of Petra and ancient ruins of Jerash, I'd like to do a sunset camelback excursion through Wadi Rum with Bedouin style camp dining on the dunes beneath the stars. I'm undecided as of yet whether Jericho or Amman are worth adding to the itinerary.
I wonder if most of these activities and sightseeing itineraries can be achieved from both of the Kempinski hotels in Aqaba and the Dead Sea? I really only have 5 nights (possibly 6 if we extend the trip) to explore Jordan and it will be my first time in the country.
Should I just do Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, and then settle into the two Kempinski properties in Jordan as a homebase for all other activities?
Or should I visit Amman as well and other nearby cities?
Any help with this itinerary would be greatly appreciated!!
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 7:52 pm
PS - Doing some quick research and decided that Amman is out and not worth the detour. So here's the itinerary so far:
August 14 to 21 - TEL AVIV
August 21 to 24 - JERUSALEM
August 24 to 31 - ????
I fly out to JFK on the 31st. I can push it back to Sept. 1st for an extra night at an additional $100 charge.
I think I want to stay at both Kempinsiki's as I definitely want to spend at least a night or two in the Dead Sea region (thinking 2 nights at Kemp. Ishtar) and 2 nights in Aqaba.
What would be the best way to do this and plan for Petra, Wadi Rum, Jerash, etc?
Thanks in advance!!
PS - I need to book this trip within the next 48 hours so I'm a bit desperate for feedback, info and suggestions.
erik123
Apr 9, 12, 8:04 pm
If slightly adventurous try this (rather basic but reportedly worth roughing it) - an initiative of the royals: http://www.feynan.com/
I would also spend the nigh in Petra - there are a few serviceable hotels there - none true luxury but good enough. It would be shame to miss it because of poor hotel choice. Visit until late in the day (when the hordes of tourists have left) and walk back in dusk.
FS Amman is nice but not worth a detour IMO (same goes for Amman).
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 8:06 pm
Apologies for the multiple posts, but I'm looking at TA photos of both Kempinski properties now and am really let down... they look like obtrusive modern resorty hotels that contrast with the landscape and scenery, and some of the guest rooms look more like dorm rooms with ugly neon lighting and Ikea furniture. Is this really the best there is out there??
Please advise the best way to travel from Israel to Jordan, while seeing all the sites I'd mentioned above (Petra and Wadi Musa, Jerash, Wadi Rum, Jericho, and possibly Madaba and Al-Karak en route? I also want to visit the Dead Sea, either on the Israeli or Arabic side of the border. Whichever offers the most interesting and scenic experience. I just don't know how to organize this trip through Jordan. The hotels all suck and I just wish the St Regis in Aqaba was finished so we could spend the entire time there and do day trips! Should I bother with these Kempinski properties or not?? Should I spend more time in Jerusalem instead?
Please help me figure this out!
OliverB
Apr 9, 12, 8:09 pm
If slightly adventurous try this (rather basic but reportedly worth roughing it) - an initiative of the royals: http://www.feynan.com/
I would also spend the nigh in Petra - there are a few serviceable hotels there - none true luxury but good enough. It would be shame to miss it because of poor hotel choice. Visit until late in the day (when the hordes of tourists have left) and walk back in dusk.
FS Amman is nice but not worth a detour IMO (same goes for Amman).
Thanks so much!
Fenyan looks amazing but I've read some horrible trip reports and am unsure of whether or not it's worth the risk. Have you stayed there before?
Is it worth staying in Petra over Aqaba and making the 3 hour trek by car if we were to arrange morning or night tours through our hotel?
If so, is the Movenpick the best option in the city and would a single night suffice?
Thanks again!
NikonDuser
Apr 9, 12, 10:41 pm
Hi OliverB,
can not help on Israel, but have been to Jordan 20+ times and used to reside there.
If you absolutely want to avoid staying in Amman, you can start off at Dead Sea. I am not sure what the best way is to travel from Israel to Jordan, road is possible and obviously a plane ride is possible to - you would have to go from Amman to the Dead Sea.
Given the fact that you do not show much appreciation for Kempinski Dead Sea, here's my take:
Value for money: Marriott Dead Sea is just fine and it is just another Marriott beach-type of hotel.
Local flair and still good: Moevenpick Dead Sea. It is a nice property, but also somewhat dated. My main gripe is the fact that none of their dining options have a stunning view of the Dead Sea. I would therefore recommend going over to Marriott and have at least one dinner there, you will love the view. BTW, it is going to be VERY hot during your visit dates.
From Dead Sea, you can explore Jerash - about a 90 minute drive and eat at the Lebanese House in Jerash, it is about 10 minutes from the main site and drivers would know the place. Very nice Arabic cuisine in a casual setting. You should plan a full day for the Jerash trip and you can return via the road across Mount Nebo, where you can visit the church in Madaba and the church on Mt Nebo and enjoy the view over the Jordan Valley.
Then spend two nights at Dead Sea - one night after your visit to Jerash and then I would leave the second day as a relaxation day for Dead Sea and pool.
You can then take a driver via the King's Highway to Petra and stay at the Moevenpick. It is not a truly luxury property, but is located right next to the main entrance of Petra for easy access. Leave from Dead Sea after breakfast and get to Petra by about 2 or 3 PM, the drive will take around 3 hours or so.
Next morning go to Petra early morning and relax at the hotel in the afternoon. They do have a pool to refresh in - you will need it. Also don't forget a sundowner cocktail on the roof top bar of the Moevenpick. Very nice under the stars.
Following morning start early and take a driver to Wadi Rum. You can do a three hour tour there and then continue to Aqaba. Drive from Petra to Rum is about 1 hour or so and another 1.5 hours from Rum to Aqaba.
None of the Aqaba hotels are a stunner, so you can take your pick. Moevenpick is probably the worst there. BTW IMHO I would not put too much hope on Aqaba. There isn't much to see - are you a diver? That would be something nice. Otherwise it is just an average beach resort.
On the way back, you could bridge the time with one night at Dead Sea if needed as the drive would be rather long or you can do a last night at Four Seasons Amman. Definitely the best hotel in Jordan. Then do a last night dinner at Fakhreldin Restaurant in Amman. Wonderful Arabic food in the former residence of the French Ambassador to Jordan.
Forgot to mention: I would avoid the Mai'in property. Have not been there in a while, but I really doubt anything has changed and it is not very nice from a physical aspect either.
erik123
Apr 10, 12, 6:37 am
Did not stay at Fenyan but at a different property of this group. It was basic but a memorable experience - if you go in with proper expectations it might be a great experience.
In Petra I stayed at Taybet Zaman - it was OK - not at the entrance and more like a 3 or 4* but with all basic comforts and nicely decorated. All better hotels in Petra will be geared towards busload of tour groups.
My suggestions - drive down from the Dead Sea on road 65 and cross the mountains on road 60 towards Tafila. You can even go further south and cross the mountains on a road that is unmarked but good (check with the driver). This is a much better experience than taking the road to Karak (which many drivers prefer, so insist). I'd also make a stop at Shobak castle - and old crusader fort that is only a short detour. Again - visit Petra later in the day. The hordes of tourist tend to visit in the morning/early PM and it will be near deserted at dusk.
NikonDuser
Apr 10, 12, 7:56 am
Did not stay at Fenyan but at a different property of this group. It was basic but a memorable experience - if you go in with proper expectations it might be a great experience.
In Petra I stayed at Taybet Zaman - it was OK - not at the entrance and more like a 3 or 4* but with all basic comforts and nicely decorated. All better hotels in Petra will be geared towards busload of tour groups.
My suggestions - drive down from the Dead Sea on road 65 and cross the mountains on road 60 towards Tafila. You can even go further south and cross the mountains on a road that is unmarked but good (check with the driver). This is a much better experience than taking the road to Karak (which many drivers prefer, so insist). I'd also make a stop at Shobak castle - and old crusader fort that is only a short detour. Again - visit Petra later in the day. The hordes of tourist tend to visit in the morning/early PM and it will be near deserted at dusk.
Agreed on the stop at Shobak castle and the route!
I advised for an early morning start as the visit is planned in August and I believe even in early afternoon it will be 40 degrees celsius +, just a consideration. From a tourist traffic perspective, the afternoon is certainly better.
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 9:19 am
Thanks so much to both of you!
This is my plan so far:
Fly in TLV from JFK and spend a full 7 days in Tel Aviv. I do not know where we'll be staying yet as this is arranged by a friend's mother who is taking care of all accommodations for a wedding that we'll be attending. I will find out tonight though and see if we can make any adjustments.
After Tel Aviv, I'm considering a night at The Scots Hotel in Tiberius. I'm undecided as of yet. I think that I would like to tour Caesarea, Acre, Golan Heights, Tiberias, Beit She'an, etc. and would probably need two days to do so. I think ideally a combination of day trips from Tel Aviv and a night situated in Tiberius would work out best. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
After The Scots in Tiberius, I would continue on to Jerusalem and spend a minumum of 4 nights at the AC. After visiting the Old City, Christian Quarters, museums, synogogues, churches, mosques, City of David, Mount of Olives, etc. I woudl also like to see Masada and the Qumran Caves. Can this be achieved within the short amount of time allotted or should I spend an extra night in Jerusalem to take all of this in? I'm guessing that it will be at least a full day trip (or two) from Jerusalem to Masada and Qumran. I wonder if a 5th night would be needed or more enjoyable to experiencing the city without feeling rushed?
I think that rather than visiting the Dead Sea from Jordan, I will make a day trip of it on the Israeli side from Tel Aviv. Does this seem like a good idea? The Kempinski properties do not seem so special to me and I do not want to waste time at big American style resorts when we'll only have days left to tour Jordan and return to Tel Aviv for our flight back to JFK on the 31st.
Is the Dead Sea any more impressive or inviting of an experience from Israel/Jordan? Do I need to spend a night in the region or will a day trip suffice? I imagine there will be plenty of time for lounging by the beach during our week in Tel Aviv.
Anyways, this is the only major part of our itinerary that I'm uncertain of and would appreciate your suggestions. We will be driving down to Petra regardless, but how important is it to stay in the Dead Sea region of Jordan with such a short period of time int he area?
We will be taking erik123's advice and travelling the route that he suggested from the border down towards Petra, with a stop at Shobak. We will spend a full night in Petra (still researching hotels but likely the Movenpick) to fully admire the lost city without the hoardes of tourists flocking in at peak hours.
I also want to tour Wadi Rum (would like to book a camelback excursion at sunset with bedouin dinner ont he dunes) but undure what the best vantage point would be. Should I stay in Aqaba or remain in Petra and make a day trip of it? Do you recommend visiting Aqaba for a night? If so, should I do this before or after Petra?
Thanks againf or all of your help, it's really greatly appreciated!!!
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 9:36 am
How does this itinerary sound (taken from A&K) and coming straight from the Jerusalem leg of our trip:
Kempinski Hotel Ishtar
Embark on a full-day exploration of the “Desert Castles,” a string of eighth-century Umayyad qasrs (castles) built as hunting lodges. Qasr Al-Kharraneah remains the best preserved, most dramatic and most enigmatic of the desert castles. Qasr Amra is the finest of the Umayyad desert resort pavilions. The interior of this bathhouse reveals a breathtaking treasure of splendid, sensuous frescoes from the mid-eighth century.
Kempinski Hotel Ishtar
Your day is at leisure to spend as you choose. Explore the land-locked Dead Sea whose waters, upon evaporation, leave behind a dense, rich cocktail of salts and minerals. Alternatively, you may choose to simply relax and enjoy the many amenities at your Arab-themed resort hotel, offering stunning views of the Dead Sea. The hotel offers three luxurious enclaves set amid gardens dotted with lagoons, waterfalls and private pools, where ancient olive trees mingle with bamboo palms in a private, serene setting. Its Anantara Spa features several treatment rooms and spa suites, as well as outdoor therapy lounges designed to create an atmosphere of calm, serenity and rejuvenation.
Fenyan Lodge
Travel along the scenic King’s Highway through countryside rich in Biblical history to Petra. En route, stop in Madaba, known as the “City of Mosaics.” On the floor of St. George’s Church, view the famous mosaic map of Palestine with a detailed map of Jerusalem as it was during the sixth century AD. Then visit Mount Nebo, where the Bible says Moses viewed the Promised Land. After lunch, continue to the former walled Crusader village of Kerak.
Movenpick Resort Petra
Explore Petra, described by UNESCO as “one of the most precious cultural properties of man’s cultural heritage.” Petra is set in a canyon that has only one entrance, known as the siq, a narrow, natural passageway that could be easily defended against attack by an invading army. Major sites include the baths, markets, the Treasury, the Temple of the Winged Lions, the Corinthian Tomb and the Palace Tomb.
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 9:38 am
Our itin would look something like this:
August 14 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 15 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 16 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 17 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 18 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 19 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 20 - ???, Tel Aviv
August 21 - The Scots Hotel, Tiberius
August 22 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
August 23 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
August 24 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
August 25 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
August 26 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
August 27 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar
August 28 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar
August 29 - Fenyan Lodge
August 30 - Moevenpick Resort, Petra
August 31 - Tel Aviv
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 10:01 am
Does the order of this make sense in terms of travel? We'll likely be driving or hiring private car transfers.
• Dive Tel Aviv, Scuba Diving Center - Night Diving, Sea Wolf Wreck, Gordon Caves
TIBERIAS - (1 Night)
• The Scots Hotel - Antique Lake View Room
Sightseeing
• Caesarea
• Acre
• Golan Heights
• Tiberias
• Beit She'an
JERUSALEM - (5 Nights)
• American Colony Hotel - Pasha Deluxe Room with Balcony
Sightseeing
• Western (Wailing) Wall
• Old City of Jerusalem - Ramparts Walk - Via Dolorosa - etc.
• City Gates - New Gate, Zion, Dung, Jaffa, Lions’ (St. Stephen's), Herod’s, Damascus (Shechem)
• Israel Museum
• Guided Tour of The City of David
• Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial
• Temple Mount & al-Haram al-Sharif
• Al-Aqsa Mosque
• Hezekiah's Tunnels
• The Citadel and Tower of David Museum
• Belz Synagogue
• Hurva Synagogue
• Notre Dame de Sion Ecce Homo Convent
• St. Anne's Church and the Bethesda Pool
• Christian Quarter - Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Church of John the Baptist, Church of St. Saviour, Deir al-Sultan Monastery, Mosque of Omar, Muristan, etc.
• Tisch Family Zoological Gardens
• Mount of Olives:
* Paternoster Church, Dominus Flevit, Church of Maria Magdalene, Garden of Gethsemane, Yad Avshalom, Tomb of Zechariah, Tomb of Benei Hezir, Mary's Tomb, Church of the Pater Noster, Church of All Nations, Orson Hyde Park, etc.
• Garden Tomb
• Saint George's Cathedral
• Bet Guvrin-Maresha National Park
WADI RUM - (Day/Evening Trip)
• Evening Tour from Closest Overnight Destination
Sightseeing
• Desert Jeep Tour
• Camelback Excursion to Lawrence's House & Spring / Ain Shalaaleh, Nabataean Temple, The Seven Pillars of Wisdom, Burdah Rock Bridge, etc.
JERICHO - (1 Night) - NOT SURE ABOUT THIS ONE???
• Hotel InterContinental - Suite
Sightseeing
• Beit Guvrin National Park - Sidonian Burial Caves, Bell Caves, Saint Anne's church, Roman Amphitheater, Maresha, etc.
AMMAN - (1 Night) - NOT SURE ABOUT THIS ONE???
• Four Seasons Hotel Amman - Executive Suite
Sightseeing
• Jabal al-Qal'a / Amman Citadel
• National Archaeological Museum
• Roman Amphitheater
• Abu Darwish Mosque
• Qasr Kharana / Qasr el-Kharraneh
• Qasr Amra
• Day Trip to the Roman Ruins of Jerash
MADABA + AL-KARAK - (En Route!)
Sightseeing
• Madaba Mosaic Map in the Church of St. George
• Um er-Rasas (Kastrom Mefa'a)
• Kerak Castle
SWEIMAH, DEAD SEA REGION - (2 Nights)
• Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea - Ishtar Jacuzzi Suite
PETRA / WADI MUSA - (1 Night)
• Moevenpick Resort Petra - Royal Suite
Sightseeing
• Moonlit Tour of The Lost City of Petra: Siq, Al-Khazna / Treasury, Al Dayr, Street of Facades, Al Beidha, The Temple of Al Uzza / Winged Lions
• Sunrise Walking Tour of Baths, Markets, Storerooms and Tombs
JERASH - (Day Trip)
Sightseeing
• Explore the Ancient Roman Ruins of Jerash
BACK TO TEL AVIV FOR RETURN FLIGHT TO NYC
NikonDuser
Apr 10, 12, 11:02 am
I can only comment on the Jordan part of the trip:
Looks fine to me, just bear in mind my following thoughts:
Distance from Petra or Wadi Rum to Jerash would be approximately 4 hours, therefore, I would ensure that the Jerash excursion is done from Amman or from Dead Sea as a maximum.
Qasr Kharana and Qasr Amra to me have limited interest. They are quite far out - around 1.5 hours from Amman and I honestly did not feel that they were worth the visit. Depends on your interest though.
I did think the Royal Automobile Museum in Amman was well worth a visit, if you do like cars. It is about 10 - 15 minutes driving distance from Four Seasons Amman. A visit would be about 1 hour.
In Petra, I am not sure if you are referring to the "Petra by night" experience when you talk about moonlit tour. Whilst this is very nice, you by no means get to really see the large monuments and scale of this amazing city in stone. Make sure you see it during day time.
Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea is a beautiful property, especially the Spa. Service, however, can be spotty.
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 11:09 am
Thank you again, ND!
Where do you suggest I visit Jerash from the Dead Sea or should I stay one night in Amman? Is it worth adding Amman to our itinerary?
We have a return flight from TLV on August 31st so it will be a packed itinerary.
Thanks again for all of the tips and suggestions!
NikonDuser
Apr 10, 12, 11:15 am
I think for your comfort you can easily do the Jerash excursion from Dead Sea as well - that way you do not have to do the overnight in Amman and gain a bit of relaxation time at Dead Sea.
Kagehitokiri
Apr 10, 12, 1:12 pm
anyone ever seen/heard anything about VIP access at petra?
kempinski ishtar >
just noticed that while the 2 detached villas appear ridiculously expensive ($17K??) they also have 6 ishtar suites that share private pool(s) (currently $610 promo and $1245 BAR)
both ishtar and aqaba can be booked through visa for benefits
hmm >
The only acceptable Luxury Hotel in Jerusalem is the new Mamilla Hotel. Everything else is famous for being famous.
Mamilla...rooms, service, food etc come nowhere close to a luxury hotel.
The Kig David (though it has many many faults) is closer to a luxury hotel.
The King David is a true luxury hotel in every sense. The inconsistencies that were experienced in the past have been totally ironed out, esp, with total revamp of the 5th and 6th floors which are scheduled to be finished around April of this yr.
The Mamila, is interesting in terms of its design, but that is where it stops. The service, overall luxury of the property, is far from being anywhere close to luxurious
just an example of (jordan/israel) discussion here
While the Kempinski Ishtar might be a newer/ nicer property, I believe the Evason Ma'In is a superior place to stay for the following reasons-
-It's a vastly more interesting setting with the spectacular canyon and waterfalls and hot springs, yet still close to the Dead Sea.
-I thought the dead sea was only worth spending an few hours visiting as swimming there is bizarre and the 'beaches' are nothing special. Also, you can get day passes to the Dead Sea resorts for approx $25-50 depending on which one you choose and have full access to the resort amenities.
-Close to Madaba.
-Sunset dinner and drinks at the Panorama restaurant.
Hope this helps. We stayed at Ma'In and did a day trip that encompassed Madaba, Mount Nebo, and then a few hours at the Ishtar in the afternoon. Ended the day in the hot spring at the Ma'In spa and then had a few Petra beers while watching the sunset at the Panorama. Perfect.
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 6:33 pm
Thanks ORDSteve,
One of the worst trip reports that I've ever read was through this very forum and on the topic of the Evason Ma'In Resort, which really scared me away.
Here's the original post:
Evason Ma’In: A Six Senses resort/spa
Perhaps the worst experience I’ve ever had at a “luxury” hotel, despite an upgrade to the royal suite, the top room in the property.
I’d never stayed at a Six Senses property before, but after planning initially to stay at the Four Seasons Amman, with an overnight at the Movenpick in Petra to break up the long drive to/from Petra, I was seduced by the newness of the Evason Ma’In, and the reports I’ve heard about how unexciting and tired the Four Seasons Amman is. What a mistake—we would have been far better off in even the most standard of Four Seasons hotels, and the Movenpick in Petra would have enabled us to enjoy sunset and morning at Petra, as well as the candlelight tour provided on selected evenings.
So it’s clear to anyone who looks at Six Senses properties that they’re trying to create some sort of rustic idyll for their guests, but that shouldn’t mean that everything, and I mean everything, is falling apart and dirty, especially after having been open less than a year. Presumably due to the Virtuoso booking made by David O, our party of four was upgraded to the two best rooms: the 2-bedroom, 2-bath Royal Suite, and the Spa Suite, which had a gargantuan terrace looking out over the waterfall. But within seconds of entering the rooms, the problems began. Barely-functional air-conditioning made rest difficult. The soap dispenser in the shower had clumps of hair on it, raising concerns about using the re-filled pump. The bathroom sink’s hardware had come loose, and the bathtub had been poorly patched up after incurring some sort of damage. Visibly sloppy painting of the walls, with paint also spreading onto the window frames. No trash can, despite four calls to housekeeping requesting one. We requested a bucket of ice, but never received it.
The small swimming pool has only a dozen or so daybeds, so there’s probably some anger when the resort has larger numbers of guests, and the pool service was deeply inadequate, not having towels at several points of the day. Lots of flies. At one point, the steel handrail leading down into the pool was covered by wood to try to continue the rustic theme, but most of the wood has been broken off—and should either have been removed altogether or repaired, rather than being left to look so shabby.
The public areas have some interesting design elements, merging rusticity with a sense of Middle Eastern aesthetics. The dining areas are attractive. But the guestrooms themselves just look cheap and underfurnished, with nothing seeming to function as intended.
Upon checkout, they couldn’t get their credit card machine to work, and the bill they presented us had charges for six different dinners for four, when we’d only stayed for three nights! We tried to explain that it was simply impossible for us to have eaten 6 different dinners when we’d only been there 3 nights, and had to argue for about an hour about that with them. The on-site manager was incredibly unhelpful during our entire stay, constantly trying to coerce us into doing something different than we desired. For example, we prefer to have a spa treatment prior to a meal rather than right after one. So we requested our spa treatments at 6 pm, and availability was confirmed. But then the manager approached us and told us that it was a bad idea to have a spa treatment before a meal, and that we should have our spa treatment right after lunch instead. We told him that we really did not want to lay on a massage table right after a meal, and he continued to insist that it was a bad idea to have a massage before dinner. Every interaction with him felt like a battle in which, for no good reason, he attempted to dissuade us from doing what we wanted to do. Another example: on the last day of our trip, we wanted to relax without leaving the property. But he became insistent that we should leave the property to dine off-site that evening. We refused, and he was somewhat disgruntled about that.
The spa building is also underwhelming, and the pool there seemed unclean, with twigs and residue floating on the surface. Treatments, though, were excellent there from the Asian staff who came from Six Senses properties in SE Asia. Local staff who performed less extensive treatments, like the 30-minute foot recovery massage, were less proficient, however.
Altogether, a really unpleasant stay, full of battles with the management over what appeared to us to be very simple requests, and general discomfort with the state of disrepair and lack of cleanliness. I’ve learned my lesson, and will never stay at a Six Senses property again.
As I said, were I to visit Petra again, I’d definitely stay at the Movenpick. I’m sure the rooms aren’t much better than a standard 3-star hotel’s, but the lobby area is very, very beautiful and atmospheric, and the light on the Treasury in Petra is best in the early morning and the dusk, and it would be great to be able to come and go from Petra to the hotel, which is just 2 minutes from the entrance gate to Petra, rather than doing a long drive from Amman or Ma’In, spending the heat of the day trying to see as much of Petra as possible, and then driving 3-4 hours back. It made for an exhausting day—well worth it to see such a spectacular place as Petra, which I absolutely loved—but how nice it would have been to see it without the long drive home hanging over you all day, and to have been able to take advantage of the candlelight tour in the evening, in addition to seeing all that glorious colored stone changing appearance during morning and evening and noonday suns.
When did you stay at the property, and could you please comment on the overall experience in relation to the above criticims of the resort; ie. condition of rooms, cleanliness, privacy, etc?
Thanks so much!!
While the Kempinski Ishtar might be a newer/ nicer property, I believe the Evason Ma'In is a superior place to stay for the following reasons-
-It's a vastly more interesting setting with the spectacular canyon and waterfalls and hot springs, yet still close to the Dead Sea.
-I thought the dead sea was only worth spending an few hours visiting as swimming there is bizarre and the 'beaches' are nothing special. Also, you can get day passes to the Dead Sea resorts for approx $25-50 depending on which one you choose and have full access to the resort amenities.
-Close to Madaba.
-Sunset dinner and drinks at the Panorama restaurant.
Hope this helps. We stayed at Ma'In and did a day trip that encompassed Madaba, Mount Nebo, and then a few hours at the Ishtar in the afternoon. Ended the day in the hot spring at the Ma'In spa and then had a few Petra beers while watching the sunset at the Panorama. Perfect.
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 9:07 pm
Okay, this is the finalized itinerary:
AUG 15 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 16 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 17 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 18 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 19 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 20 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 21 - The Scots, Tiberias
AUG 22 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 23 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 24 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 25 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 26 - Evason Ma'in Hot Springs, Madaba
AUG 27 - Movenpick, Petra
AUG 28 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea
AUG 29 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea
AUG 30 - Tel Aviv - (late-evening return flight to NYC)
A few quick questions:
Will Aug. 21 and the morning of Aug. 22 afford us enough time to visit the North of Israel? I'd like to see Tiberias, Acre, Golan Heights, and Beit She'an. Will a day tour on the 21st with an overnight stay at The Scots suffice?
We are staying a single night at the Evason Ma'In (despite critical feedback and controversial reports) only as a way to break up the driving distance to Petra, which we'll continue on to the next day. Approx. how far is the drive from Madaba to Petra and would I need to hire a private car transfer? I don't think I'd feel comfortable driving myself in a rental, not being able to read road signs or understanding the language.
Would our two nights (Aug. 28 and 29) at the Kempinski Dead Sea, afford us ample time to visit both Jerash and Wadi Rum as day trips? This would be the main focus of the stay, over beach and spa. Approx. how long is the drive to both Wadi Rum and Jerash from Madaba? Same question as above re. car transfer too! What's the best way to get there?
Lastly, what is the most efficient way to cross the Israeli border into Jordan, coming from Jerusalem with Madaba as our initial destination? Are there car services that would take us over the border and would it be difficult to pass?
Thanks so much once again!!!
OliverB
Apr 10, 12, 9:21 pm
Okay, this is the finalized itinerary:
AUG 15 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 16 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 17 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 18 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 19 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 20 - Tel Aviv - (not sure where we're booked as of yet)
AUG 21 - The Scots, Tiberias
AUG 22 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 23 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 24 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 25 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
AUG 26 - Evason Ma'in Hot Springs, Madaba
AUG 27 - Movenpick, Petra
AUG 28 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea
AUG 29 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea
AUG 30 - Tel Aviv - (late-evening return flight to NYC)
A few quick questions:
Will Aug. 21 and the morning of Aug. 22 afford us enough time to visit the North of Israel? I'd like to see Tiberias, Acre, Golan Heights, and Beit She'an. Will a day tour on the 21st with an overnight stay at The Scots suffice?
We are staying a single night at the Evason Ma'In (despite critical feedback and controversial reports) only as a way to break up the driving distance to Petra, which we'll continue on to the next day. Approx. how far is the drive from Madaba to Petra and would I need to hire a private car transfer? I don't think I'd feel comfortable driving myself in a rental, not being able to read road signs or understanding the language.
Would our two nights (Aug. 28 and 29) at the Kempinski Dead Sea, afford us ample time to visit both Jerash and Wadi Rum as day trips? This would be the main focus of the stay, over beach and spa. Approx. how long is the drive to both Wadi Rum and Jerash from Madaba? Same question as above re. car transfer too! What's the best way to get there?
Lastly, what is the most efficient way to cross the Israeli border into Jordan, coming from Jerusalem with Madaba as our initial destination? Are there car services that would take us over the border and would it be difficult to pass?
Thanks so much once again!!!
NikonDuser
Apr 11, 12, 1:32 am
Hi OliverB,
just to clear up some distances:
Evason Ma'in hot springs is right next to Dead Sea - about 30 mins, by staying there, you do not really break up the distance to Petra as your driver would take the scenic King's Highway anyway and will require around 3 hours.
Madaba to Petra is still around 3 hours, Madaba, Dead Sea, Ma'in are all right next to each other.
Wadi Rum is an excursion to be done from Petra NOT from Dead Sea - about 1 hour. From Dead Sea it would be 3.5 hours or more.
Jerash from Dead Sea is OK, around 1.5 hours
So from a vicinity perspective you should consider those distances...
Here's what I was thinking:
AUG 25 - American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
Don't know how long it will take to cross over to Jordan. You will have to figure this out.
AUG 26 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea
AUG 27 - Kempinski Ishtar, Dead Sea, visit Jerash, Mount Nebo and Madaba from here
AUG 28 - Movenpick, Petra, visit Wadi Rum from here
AUG 29 - Evason Ma'in Hot Springs, Madaba and Mount Nebo
Return to Tel Aviv
I must say, however, that with the distances involved, what you are trying to achieve in this short period of time is quite a lot.
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 6:15 am
Thanks so much Nikon!
It will probably be both a hassle and ordeal driving from Israel to Jordan and dealing with the border, so I figured that rather than driving from Jerusalem to Petra direct, stopping off at the Ma'In in or around Madaba would break up the journey and not make it feel so rushed. That way, we could leave Jerusalem on the 25th and enter Jordan, spend the afternoon evening at the Ma'In Hot Springs, and then continue on to Petra the next morning. You don't think that'd feel a bit less hectic than driving straight from Jerusalem to Petra?
Also, do you know anything about the ease of border crossing by car?
Is one night in Petra (perhaps with the afternoon, evening, and next morning) enough to see both Petra/Wadi Musa and also Wadi Rum?
You say that what we are trying to achieve in this time period seems like a lot... which parts of our itinerary seem the most unrealistic to you?
Thanks so much for your suggestions and help with everything and if you think we should stay at the Kempinski Ishtar and visit Jerash, Mount Nebo and Madaba from here, then move on to Petra and stay at the Ma'In on our last leg home (reverse Kempinski and Ma'In) then I'll do it! Just curious why you feel it'd be easier though?
Thanks again!!
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 6:20 am
PS - Kerak Castle is en route to Petra, right?
We would visit Al-Karak either going to the Dead Sea region from Petra or coming back from the Dead Sea region from Petra?
Also, could you please explain your reasoning for suggesting that we stay at the Kempinski Ishtar for 2 nights before Petra/Wadi Musa and the Ma'In after, rather than the other way around?
They're both right nearby so I'm not sure how it'd effect our trip or itinerary any differently, but if it does impact our schedule, I'll gladly rearrange it. I'm just curious why you feel this way?
Thanks!
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 7:13 am
One last question for you, Nikon:
If we had to add a night somewhere in our Jordan itinerary (I don't know if it will even be possible but it seems like it would be a more enjoyable way to experience the country) - where would you recommend we do this?
I genuinely appreciate all of your advice and suggestions so much, it's been a huge help to me! Thanks!!
NikonDuser
Apr 11, 12, 9:20 am
OK, I will try to tackle one after the other...
I suggested to stop first at Dead Sea since the Dead Sea area is the closest first stop when coming from the Israel border crossing - to my knowledge, you can check it again.
I do not know regarding the border crossing, but heard a long time ago that it can take a very long time - especially on the way from Jordan to Israel.
Definitely do not drive from Jerusalem all the way to Petra, I recommend to go to Dead Sea as I believe it is closest. Ma'in may not be much further, but I am not sure of the route you will be coming from. This is the reason why I placed the Dead Sea at the beginning of your stay and Ma'in at the end - both are relatively close to your crossing towards Israel.
Quite a lot: The visit of Petra and Wadi Rum will be tiresome, but can be done. The way I would do this: Drive from Dead Sea (or from Ma'in if you're coming from there) directly to Wadi Rum and then go to Petra from Wadi Rum. You can still visit Petra the following day in the morning and continue your trip.
Karak castle - yes it is on the way to Petra and you can stop there.
You can basically swap Ma'in and Dead Sea around if you wish. I felt Dead Sea is easier to get to that Ma'in. Ma'in is somewhat remote when coming from Israel as far as I can tell.
I would add one night in Amman. It would make your itinerary more manageable and you can still see the few sights in and around Amman - you could even do Jerash from there instead of from Dead Sea. And you can get the feel for the city with the Amphitheatre and all the surroundings.
ORDSteve
Apr 11, 12, 12:59 pm
Thanks ORDSteve,
One of the worst trip reports that I've ever read was through this very forum and on the topic of the Evason Ma'In Resort, which really scared me away.
When did you stay at the property, and could you please comment on the overall experience in relation to the above criticims of the resort; ie. condition of rooms, cleanliness, privacy, etc?
Thanks so much!!
We were there a year ago January, right before the regional upheaval started. I had read that review prior to our trip and elected to stay there anyway and was glad we did. I didn't experience any of the issues mentioned in that trip report. Was the service world class? No. Was the condition of the hotel flawless? No. But ultimately the service was fine, the breakfast buffet was excellent, and the room was quite nice. I'm not disputing what the poster said in the other trip report, but it's only one data point. I think it's a way more interesting setting versus the Dead Sea resorts and would have no hesitation staying there again.
Jac747
Apr 11, 12, 3:38 pm
I was underwhelmed by the Ishtar Kempinski as it doesn't offer much local atmosphere and is very large, impersonal and service was not great. I've stayed both there and the RSCN eco-lodge at the Dead Sea and prefer the more basic eco-lodge really. I wanted to stay at the Feynan lodge also because I really enjoyed the 2 others I stayed in, as mentioned, the Dead Sea and their lodge in Dana village. They are basic, yet immaculate and well run but if you are looking for luxury, skip it.
As for Petra, I would stay 2 nights and spend some time in Wadi Rum though I can't recommend the overnight camps within the reserve-scenery was fantastic but those camps are VERY basic. There is nothing to see in Wadi Musa-it's just a tourist town.
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 7:02 pm
Thanks Jac,
I definitely plan to spend time in Wadi Rum, and the only reason that we're doing 2 nights at the Kempinski is because we want to be able to take day trips to Jerash, Madaba, etc.
I really wanted to stay at the Fenyan Lodge, but my girlfriend talked me out of it since we'll be going in late August when the temps will be scorching, and she didn't feel it would be an enjoyable experience to spend baking in the desert without a.c. or the amnities of a hotel. If we can find the time in our tight schedule, we may try to visit the Dana Reserve from the Dead Sea region.
As for the Kempinski Hotel itself, how did you find the rooms and accommodations? Was it just a big Westernized shopping mall of a hotel, or does it at least feel like a luxurious beachfront property?
We'll be doing so much travelling from Israel through Jordan that my gf thinks that spending single nights in different hotels every other day will be more of a burden then an enjoyable experience. I guess I can see her pov.
I'm also not sure that an ecolodge buried deep in the burning hot dry desert canyons is really where I want to spend my time in mid-August when the temps climb to 90 degrees!
I wish we could extend our trip by 2 more nights to include Fenyan and an extra night in either Petra, Amman or Aqaba... but my gf only has so much time that she can take off work.
Were the lodges that you stayed in all powered by generators? Did they have electricity and running water? I believe that Fenyan is all lit by candlelight and I'm not sure if there is running water, since it's all sourced from nearby springs.
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 7:17 pm
Looking at TA traveler photos, the grounds and lobby of the hotel appear to be done quite thoughtfully, and I think look very nice. The rooms themselves appear unimpressive and worry me a bit. Some photos resemble college dorm rooms.
I've read a lot of reviews that use words like big and soulless, impersonal, etc. As this will only be a base for exploring Madaba, Jerash, etc. before moving on to Petra and Wadi Rum, I'm less concerned with service and amenities and more the property and accommodations themselves. The surrounding gardens and pool deck look like they'd be lovely and picturesque to sit out and stargaze at night. I'm hoping we can book one of the preferred oceanfront jacuzzi suites to spend our evenings. I guess worst case scenario, we can always check out a day early...
NikonDuser
Apr 11, 12, 10:49 pm
Stayed at the Fenyan lodge a few years ago - so no recent experience. They did have A/C in each room, although candle lit. I am not sure if this is still the case, but I think they would still have the A/C there as otherwise it would be unbearable in summer. For me it was a bit too isolated and purely rocky desert around it, so I did not enjoy it that much. There is running water for sure.
I thought the Kempinski Ishtar's grounds and public areas were rather impressive, although a bit too large for that place... Rooms are OK, not that impressive, but especially that round pool with different colored lighting is just amazing when you relax in there:cool:
Camps in Wadi Rum are relatively basic. I did stay at the Captain's camp at the "Royal Suite" - which was pretty nice. Proper beds (mattress not that great though...) and with an en-suite bathroom. There isn't any alcohol served, just FYI.
OliverB
Apr 11, 12, 11:12 pm
Thanks, sounds like I made the right choice then!
Jac747
Apr 12, 12, 7:45 am
I agree with the description of the rooms at the Kempinski Ishtar but maybe since you will be booking a higher level room, you will be more satisfied. My room was quite bland and the sliding door did not work well at all and it took quite awhile to get it fixed and then it still was not easy to open. The spa was a strange one too but don't know if you're interested in that info. From the photos of the Movenpick, I wish I had stayed there instead. The Movenpick at Petra seemed quite nice too but I only saw the public rooms.
It is at least a 3hr drive from Dana village to the Dead Sea and not well marked. And, as you mentioned, it will be scorching everywhere.
OliverB
Apr 12, 12, 8:19 am
I agree with the description of the rooms at the Kempinski Ishtar but maybe since you will be booking a higher level room, you will be more satisfied. My room was quite bland and the sliding door did not work well at all and it took quite awhile to get it fixed and then it still was not easy to open. The spa was a strange one too but don't know if you're interested in that info. From the photos of the Movenpick, I wish I had stayed there instead. The Movenpick at Petra seemed quite nice too but I only saw the public rooms.
It is at least a 3hr drive from Dana village to the Dead Sea and not well marked. And, as you mentioned, it will be scorching everywhere.
Thanks, I've just read some critical reviews of the Fenyan and Dana Lodge so I really do think we're doing the right thing. It will just be an uncomfortable detour imo. As for Kempinski, I'm going to ensure that we book into one of their top ishtar jacuzzi suites, which looks quite lovely from the photos I've seen here:
Compared to the standard dorm room pictures on TA with cheap furnishings, it almost looks like an entirely different hotel!
Kagehitokiri
Apr 12, 12, 9:11 am
talk to GM about what to book - maybe ishtar suite >
6 ishtar suites that share private pool(s) (currently $610 promo and $1245 BAR)
both ishtar and aqaba can be booked through visa for benefits
http://author.kempinski.com/en/deadsea/Pages/RoomsAndSuites.aspx
Ishtar Suite (Resort Area)
The highlight of style in the resort area. Custom-made furniture and decor accentuate the eloquent design of these exclusive suites. Embrace the day with a refreshing dip under the naturally ultra-violet filtered sunshine, in the private area specially allocated for Ishtar Suites only.
Private pool area exclusive for Ishtar Suites
http://www.travelwizard.com/middleeast/jordan-vacations/jordan-luxury-hotels/kempinski-hotel-ishtar/
Ishtar Villas
This masterpiece of Babylonian inspiration is carved in local stone and offers a total of 117 Rooms & Suites with balconies, terraces or verandas, all facing the Dead Sea
6 Ishtar Suites
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g951923-d614207-r127648284-Kempinski_Hotel_Ishtar_Dead_Sea-Sweimah_Dead_Sea_Region.html
private pool (shared with 5 other villas
hmm, maybe its not just the 6 ishtar suites?
lower left corner i believe >
http://maps.google.com/maps?q=kempinski+ishtar&hl=en&ll=31.7149,35.586315&spn=0.001424,0.001985&client=safari&hq=kempinski+ishtar&radius=15000&t=h&z=19
OliverB
Apr 12, 12, 9:01 pm
Thanks Kagehitokiri!
I'm pricing $846 for the Ishtar Jacuzzi Suite with my Virtuoso TA and will surely go for this one as it looks and sounds incredible with a large bi-level private terrace and outdoor jacuzzi... sounds preferable to the Ishtar Suite imo! ^
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 6:02 am
I was just able to extend my trip by one extra night and am wondering where I should stay? I don't want to travel on to a new destination (unless it's really merited!) as I'd like to take full advantage of the extra day and not feel rushed. I also don't feel that Amaan or Aqaba are entirely necessary with such a limited schedule as they are just big cities. So that said, should I spend the extra night in Petra? Ma'In? Jerusalem? North Israel?
What do you suggest would be best to maximize our itinerary?
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 6:19 am
It's between Jerusalem, Tiberius, and Petra.
I think Petra would be nice because we're only staying one night as of now, and it would feel less rushed to spend the extra night. BUT I hear Wadi Musa itself is a waste and the only incentive is Petra itself. Also the proximity to Wadi Rum, which is on our itinerary. Is 2 full nights too much for Petra and Wadi Rum alone, or is it ideal? If it can be done comfortable and leisurely in a single night's stay, I'd rather not waste the extra time.
I'm considering Jordan as well, because we are only there for 4 nights and our first and last days are mostly relegated to travel. There is SO much to see and do in this city and so many great places to eat, that I'm worried we'll be cutting our time short.
Lastly, there's Tiberias and northern Israel. We're currently only booked for two nights, but would like to explore Caesarea & Banias, Acre, Golan Heights, the Hexagon Pool, Meshushim Reserve, Yehudiya Forest Nature Reserve, Nazareth, Beit She'an + I definitely want to sail on the Sea of Gailee and visit Capernaum. I'm sure there is way more to do and see in the region as well, and 2 nights might be tight.
What do you all suggest??
I need to write to my TA this morning and let her know where we'll add our extra night.
Thanks!
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 7:43 am
Here is the FULL Itinerary, with an additiona, night to be added somewhere:
Either in Jerusalem, North Israel (Tiberias or the Galilee Region) or in Petra.
• American Colony Hotel - Pasha Deluxe Room with Balcony / Jr. Suite
Sightseeing
• Western (Wailing) Wall
• Old City of Jerusalem - Ramparts Walk - Via Dolorosa - etc.
• City Gates - New Gate, Zion, Dung, Jaffa, Lions’ (St. Stephen's), Herod’s, Damascus (Shechem)
• Israel Museum
• Guided Tour of The City of David
• Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial
• Mount Zion
• Temple Mount & al-Haram al-Sharif
• Al-Aqsa Mosque
• Hezekiah's Tunnels
• The Citadel and Tower of David Museum
• Belz Synagogue
• Hurva Synagogue
• Notre Dame de Sion Ecce Homo Convent
• St. Anne's Church and the Bethesda Pool
• Christian Quarter - Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Church of John the Baptist, Church of St. Saviour, Deir al-Sultan Monastery, Mosque of Omar, Muristan, etc.
• Tisch Family Zoological Gardens
• Mount of Olives:
* Paternoster Church, Dominus Flevit, Church of Maria Magdalene, Garden of Gethsemane, Yad Avshalom, Tomb of Zechariah, Tomb of Benei Hezir, Mary's Tomb, Church of the Pater Noster, Church of All Nations, Orson Hyde Park, etc.
Would an additional night in Jerusalem, North Israel (Tiberias?) or Petra afford us the most convenience for doing all we want in each region without feeling too rushed or pressed for time? Where would you place the most signifigance?
I'm leaning towards and extra night in Jerusalem.
Thanks!
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 9:55 am
Re. ISRAEL:
I would also appreciate your feedback on whether or not to cut Tel Aviv short one day, and add an extra day to Jerusalem instead. We will be in Tel Aviv for a friend's wedding, and the majority of our time will be spent leisurely; eating, drinking, lounging on the beach, exploring the city, etc. Here's my dilemma - I really would like to get a local and cultural feel for the city of Tel Aviv and spend as much time there as possible, however, there seems to be so much more to see and do in Jerusalem and it's surrounding destinations. We're flying directly into TLV from NYC and will surely be jetlagged for the first couple of days, and so time spent exploring the city, eating well, relaxing on the beach, etc. will do us good! Is 6 days too much though? Or is it not enough to truly experience life in Tel Aviv? Should we cut it to 5 nights, in order to spend one more night in Jerusalem, living and breathing ancient history and touring amazing archaeological sites and natural wonders?
What about North Israel?? It's an area I haven't really explored much of.
From what I've read and pictured I've seen online, there are elevated cities in the Galilee that overlook the mountains and sea that could easily be mistaken for Greek peninsulas overlooking the Mediterranean! Then there are ancient seaside Crusader towns and fortified cities that could fit comfortably right into Southern Europe, and the Golan Heights region seems to be a far more rural part of the country, but surrounded by amazing wineries and nationl parks with the most picturesque natural scenery of rushing rivers, tropical flaura, lush forest reserves, towering waterfalls, canyons and gorges, etc!
Will two nights alone in Tiberias afford us enough time to visit all the highlights of this region?
I think that we'd be able to visit Caesarea and Acre/Akko on the same day as our drive into Tiberias, coming from Tel Aviv. It should be doable, but a whirlwind day of driving, right?
I would really love to spend one full day on the Galilee, sailing and swimming and visiting the island of Capernaum. I would do this the next morning. But then what about Golan Heights?
Would we need another full night/day to explore Golan Heights and is it worth extending our trip here? If so, where to stay in the area? Could we remain at our hotel in Tiberias as a homebase and drive further north to the Golan Heights the last day (perhaps dinner in Safed) before returning to Tiberias to sleep, and then on to Jerusalem in the morning? What do you thinkg about this itinerary? And what about Beit She'an? Where would that fit into our trip? Perhaps on the drive back to Jerusalem?
Lastly, does our time in Jerusalem (considering the first and last day will be entirely relegated to driving from previous and to next destinations) afford us enough time to see all we want to see, including a day trip to Masada?
I would really appreciate your help and feedback with all of this!
We basically have one night to add SOMEHWERE. I'm leaning towards Jerusalem or North Israel. We also have the option to depart from Tel Aviv a day earlier and extend another night somewhere else. Please let me know if you think that would be warranted and if an extra night in BOTH Jerusalem and North Israel would od us well!
If you have any recommendations for places to stay in Golan Heights (small luxe inn, historic accom, boutique b&b or really nice hotel embodying the vibrancy, art, architecture, culture, etc. of surrounding environs) it would also be greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much!!!
PS - we also have the option to extend an extra night in Petra INSTEAD of in Israel. Or 1 night in Petra and 1 night in Israel if we cut Tel Aviv a day short. I feel that despite the added comfort of doing so, our current itinerary seems more doable than our Jerusalem and N. Israel plans, in terms of accomplishing all there is to see. It'd be REALLY nice to have the extra night to not feel rushed. I always like to stay at least 2 nights wherever I go so that I'm not just checking-in & out which is tolling. But in this case with a limited number of days, I'm not sure it'd be worthwhile.
Thank you!
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 12:20 pm
NikonDruser,
Coming from the Madaba/Dead Sea region -- what would be the best way to see both Petra and Wadi Rum in 2 days?
I would depart Madaba from the Evason Ma'In in the morning and head down the King's Highway towards Petra, stopping in Kerak along the way. If we spent the evening in the city (Movenpick Petra) and woke up at dawn to tour Petra... how would you advise we visit Wadi Rum as well?
Would it be best to leave the Ma'In at the crack of daybreak and drive STRAIGHT to Petra and tour by mid-day, and then visit Wadi Rum the next morning?
Would we lose out by not being able to wake up in Petra and see the lost city as the sun rises?
I'm just trying to figure out how to make this work:
• August 28 - Evason Ma'In Hot Springs, Madaba
• August 29 - Mövenpick Resort, Petra
• August 30 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar, Madaba
• August 31 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar, Madaba
We want to tour Petra, Wadi Rum, Jerash and spend some time in the Dead Sea region and Madaba.
NikonDuser
Apr 13, 12, 1:17 pm
Hi OliverB,
if you are only staying on night in Petra, I would visit Wadi Rum on my way from Ma'in, before going all the way to Petra. You should leave morning time and would then reach Wadi Rum by early afternoon - you can have a tour of about 3 hours, enjoy the sunset and then continue to Petra.
You would then visit Petra the following day in the early morning as it is cooler. I am proposing it this way around as I feel the Petra visit will be more tiring than the Rum visit. Petra will be mostly walking and quite long, Rum will be sitting in a car most of the time. Therefore I felt it is best to do Petra the following day as you will return to Dead Sea and have all the relaxation needed...
Of course, if you add another night in Petra, it will de-stretch the entire thing and you would be able to push the Petra visit to the afternoon, which might be warmer, but less crowded.
Madaba, Mount Nebo and Jerash can be visited at any time from the Dead Sea region. Mount Nebo is about a 35 minute drive from Dead Sea and a further 30 minutes or so to Madaba. You can then return to the Dead Sea from there.
Jerash is about 90 minutes from the Dead Sea hotels.
OliverB
Apr 13, 12, 1:56 pm
Thanks so much for your help again, great advice!
I'm rebooking my flights and trying to fly home a day later so that I can stay two nights in Petra. Would you advise two full nights in Petra or one in Petra and one in Amman or Aqaba? We're flying out of Amman now, instead of Tel Aviv which made no sense!
Thanks so much!
NikonDuser
Apr 15, 12, 10:49 pm
Sorry for the delay...
I would go for another night in Petra rather than Aqaba. I do feel Aqaba is just an average sea resort, nothing too special.
You can of course do one night in Amman, which would help on your way back in terms of easy access for your way home I think. That way, you can still see a few of the sites in Amman.
Petra is obviously the most interesting cultural / country aspect as you can maximize time for Petra and Wadi Rum without being rushed.
OliverB
Apr 16, 12, 6:44 pm
Thanks Nikon!
Here's an update for anyone interested: our FINAL itinerary!!
• August 12 - Shalom Hotel & Relax, Tel Aviv
• August 13 - Shalom Hotel & Relax, Tel Aviv
• August 14 - Shalom Hotel & Relax, Tel Aviv
• August 15 - The Maxim, Tel Aviv
• August 16 - The Maxim, Tel Aviv
• August 17 - The Maxim, Tel Aviv
• August 18 - The Maxim, Tel Aviv
• August 19 - The Maxim, Tel Aviv
• August 20 - Carmel Forest Spa Resort by Isrotel, Haifa
• August 21 - The Scots Hotel, Tiberias
• August 22 - The Scots Hotel, Tiberias
• August 23 - Mizpe Hayamim, Golan Heights
• August 24 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
• August 25 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
• August 26 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
• August 27 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
• August 28 - The American Colony Hotel, Jerusalem
• August 29 - Evason Ma'In Hot Springs, Madaba
• August 30 - Mövenpick Resort, Petra
• August 31 - Mövenpick Resort, Petra
• September 01 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar, Madaba
• September 02 - Kempinski Hotel Ishtar, Madaba
• September 03 - Amman to SFO
{Border Crossing: Enter Jordan/Israel via the Allenby King Hussein Bridge}
• American Colony Hotel - Original Jr. Suite with Private Terrace (Old Wing)
Sightseeing
• Western (Wailing) Wall
• Old City of Jerusalem - Ramparts Walk - Via Dolorosa - etc.
• City Gates - New Gate, Zion, Dung, Jaffa, Lions’ (St. Stephen's), Herod’s, Damascus (Shechem)
• Israel Museum
• Guided Tour of The City of David
• Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial
• Mount Zion
• Temple Mount & al-Haram al-Sharif
• Al-Aqsa Mosque
• Hezekiah's Tunnels
• The Citadel and Tower of David Museum
• Belz Synagogue
• Hurva Synagogue
• Notre Dame de Sion Ecce Homo Convent
• St. Anne's Church and the Bethesda Pool
• Christian Quarter - Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Church of John the Baptist, Church of St. Saviour, Deir al-Sultan Monastery, Mosque of Omar, Muristan, etc.
• Tisch Family Zoological Gardens
• Mount of Olives:
* Paternoster Church, Dominus Flevit, Church of Maria Magdalene, Garden of Gethsemane, Yad Avshalom, Tomb of Zechariah, Tomb of Benei Hezir, Mary's Tomb, Church of the Pater Noster, Church of All Nations, Orson Hyde Park, etc.
• Garden Tomb
• Saint George's Cathedral
• Bet Guvrin-Maresha National Park
Nearby Destinations
• Abu Ghosh
• Masada
• Qumran Caves
Restaurants
• Scala Restaurant at the David Citadel Hotel
• Chakra
• Machneyuda
• The Diwan and Garden Restaurant at the Jerusalem Hotel
How did you manage to arrange a tour of the Belz Synagogue?
OliverB
Apr 17, 12, 6:59 pm
Looks Great!
How did you manage to arrange a tour of the Belz Synagogue?
Haven't got that far yet!
Just booked out hotels and flights really. Everything else is still be planned.
Not sure how we're gonna get transported to and from each destination yet, at least for reasonable cost on the Israeli side of the border...
The sightseeing stuff are all just options that we'll plan for as our dates get closer, or just play by year while traveling. I just like to list everything so we have the options to pick from. I'll likely arrange tours in advance for our highlighted specifics.
Spent so much time planning and arranging this week that I feel like I've already been to the Middle East!