Africa - Hwange National Park or Kruger?

I am going to South Africa for the second time in August and I am having trouble deciding where to go on safari. We will arrive in Johannesburg and stay there for 2 nights, then we're going to Chobe in Botswana for 3 days followed by a few days in Victoria Falls. After Vic Falls, we want to go on safari but we're not sure where to go. Hwange looks interesting and is pretty affordable and we could spend 4 nights there and then fly from Vic Fall to Durban, our next destination. If we go to Kruger (we have been there before), we have to fly from Vic Falls to Johannesburg and spend the night there, leaving us with only 3 nights in Kruger. What would be the best option?

I would give Hwange a go. I do not know it anywhere near as well as I do Kruger, and have not been there very recently, but from what I hear the game viewing is very good. Do not, however, expect the facilities and amenities to be anywhere near Kruger standards. Zimbabwe has suffered badly under Mugabe for over 30 years, and the national parks have taken a hammering. If you are happy to make do with what they can still offer (or can afford one of the private lodges) you should be fine.

Johan

If I did 4 nights in Hwange and 4 nights at Imbabala Safari Lodge and the Elephant Camp in Vic Falls would that be a good experience in August?

Hi mcbg1,

I think you are on the right track considering a Hwange safari. Since you have already been to the Kruger ecosystem on a previous safari I suggest you start exploring other ecosystems in Africa for your follow-on safaris. The Chobe will be a great experience in August albeit a bit crowded that time of year especially near Kasane. Perhaps get out to the Savute Marsh area if you can.

I have been to many lodges in the Kruger area on my 29 trips to Southern Africa. It is important for other people reading this thread to understand if you are speaking of the Kruger National Park itself (i.e. the rest camps) OR a private concession inside the Kruger like Tinga, Jocks, or Singita Lebombo/Sweni OR a totally private game reserve on a private concession adjacent to the Kruger like MalaMala or Lion Sands which are both located in the Sabi Sands. Private concessions and private reserves offer a totally different experience vs the rest camps and a self-drive safari in the Kruger National Park. I will leave it to someone else to ask for more information on this if they want.

I have been to almost every permanent lodge in the Hwange National Park in the past 24 months. An exception would be Nahimba which just opened. August is the peak month of the peak season so it is literally the best month of the year to go. The animal viewing will be excellent and you can expect to see plenty of game and huge herds of elephant, buffalo and more. The Hwange National Park is where the Kalahari transitions to the mopane woodlands of northern Zimbabwe so the park has more biodiversity of mammals than any other park in Africa. 108 mammal species are seen in the park by guests.

I respectfully disagree with my e-friend Johan Rebel regarding the statement that Hwange has “taken a hammering”. The lodges I have seen like the Hide and Somalisa and Little Makalolo are all looking great. All three are virtually brand new or recently 100% renovated. They have also been running at near 100% occupancy in the peak season of July-October for the past two years. The only sad looking permanent lodges are Linkwasha and Makalolo which are used by OAT exclusively. Makalolo is in especially poor condition last time I saw it in May 2010.

I did stayed at Little Makalolo in May 2010 and I took my wife and kids to Davisons Camp in August 2011 for three days. Davison opened in 2010 so it is brand-new and co-located on the private Makalolo concession with Little Makalolo. We had a fantastic safari and it was on-par but totally different from the many Kruger area safaris I have done.

Along with the 108 mammals, Hwange has, in my opinion, some of the best guides in Africa and long sight lines over flat ground. The numerous waters holes are massive gathering places in August during the dry season. We saw lion every day. The only major drawback to the Hwange vs. the Kruger private concessions or private reserves is that you must stay on the roads in the Hwange. This did not impact our ability to see many animals on every drive.

I am not sure what I can say other than go to Hwange!

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond
2011 Travel & Leisure A-List agent for Botswana & Zimbabwe

I forgot…

Wild Horizons owns Imbabala and Elephant Camp. I LOVE Elephant Camp and visited last August. Be sure to ask your agent to book one of their specials as they have a good combo package offer: http://www.wildhorizons.co.za/specials/

Another option to combine Chobe and Hwange would be the Amalinda Collection’s Best of the West 2012 special. On this special you get two nights at Ngoma in the Chobe, 2 nights at the Vic Falls Safari Lodge, 2 nights at Ivory Lodge on a private concession adjacent to the Hwange, and 2 nights at Camp Amalinda near Bulawayo with one night at the Bulawayo Club. The cost is about $3,600 per person including the road transfers based on 2 people sharing. The trip starts in Vic Falls and ends at Bulawayo both which have daily service on SAA from Jo’burg. You can also reverse it for the same price.

If you have not already booked Chobe, Wilderness Safaris has an excellent price on a six day safari beginning and ending in Vic Falls/Harare with three days each at Little Makalolo and Ruckomechi. Ruckomechi is in Mana Pools National Park which is the most unique ecosystem I have ever seen! You can reverse the trip so it can start in Harare or Vic Falls both have flights daily to Jo’burg on BA and SAA. I have also been to every permanent lodge in Mana Pools National Park and it will not disappoint you!

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

I forgot…

Wild Horizons owns Imbabala and Elephant Camp. I LOVE Elephant Camp and visited last August. Be sure to ask your agent to book one of their specials as they have a good combo package offer: http://www.wildhorizons.co.za/specials/

Another option to combine Chobe and Hwange would be the Amalinda Collection’s Best of the West 2012 special. On this special you get two nights at Ngoma in the Chobe, 2 nights at the Vic Falls Safari Lodge, 2 nights at Ivory Lodge on a private concession adjacent to the Hwange, and 2 nights at Camp Amalinda near Bulawayo with one night at the Bulawayo Club. The cost is about $3,600 per person including the road transfers based on 2 people sharing. The trip starts in Vic Falls and ends at Bulawayo both which have daily service on SAA from Jo’burg. You can also reverse it for the same price.

If you have not already booked Chobe, Wilderness Safaris has an excellent price on a six day safari beginning and ending in Vic Falls/Harare with three days each at Little Makalolo and Ruckomechi. Ruckomechi is in Mana Pools National Park which is the most unique ecosystem I have ever seen! You can reverse the trip so it can start in Harare or Vic Falls both have flights daily to Jo’burg on BA and SAA. I have also been to every permanent lodge in Mana Pools National Park and it will not disappoint you!

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Thanks for that. Very helpful! Have you visited the Sikumi Tree Lodge? It is just outside of the Hwange park and they seem to have pretty good reviews on Trip Advisor. From looking at all the options in the park, it seems to be the best value for the money. I found a rate of 166$ per day, per person, all inclusive. I would have to pay the park fees every day but otherwise, it seems like a pretty good deal.

I am familiar with Sikumi but it is not in the Park itself so I have not been there. My advice is to take the reviews with a grain of salt and make sure you check what other types of properties the reviewers have stayed at. They may not be like minded travelers to yourself. To be honest, I am a little skeptical of the quality of guides, vehicles, and food at any lodge less than about $250-$300 per person per night. My go-to budget lodges IN the Hwange would be the Hide or Davisons.

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

I respectfully disagree with my e-friend Johan Rebel regarding the statement that Hwange has “taken a hammering”. I wrote that "the national parks have taken a hammering", not the private lodges in or outside the parks. The national parks have been run on a shoestring, if that, for many years now, as anybody who has stayed at the public rest camps recently can attest too.

Johan

You are correct sir! My appologies.

The national park camp sites do look pretty sorry.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

One potential issue with Hwange (which does have great game viewing) is getting there. My recollection is that the road between Hwange and Vic Falls was not great when I was last there (which is some years ago) and I doubt that it has improved given general conditions in Zimbabwe.

That's not a reason not to go, but something to be aware of if you aren't used to travel in underdeveloped countries.

One potential issue with Hwange (which does have great game viewing) is getting there. My recollection is that the road between Hwange and Vic Falls was not great when I was last there (which is some years ago) and I doubt that it has improved given general conditions in Zimbabwe.

That's not a reason not to go, but something to be aware of if you aren't used to travel in underdeveloped countries.

From what I've read, there's a new highway linking Vic Falls and Hwange. I won't be driving anyway so I'm not worried. I like adventure!

You are correct sir! My appologies.No offense taken.

Although I imagine I know a bit about game viewing in southern Africa, I always read your very infomative and detailed contributions with great interest. They are much appreciated.

Johan

Haven't been to either park in over 10 years, but at the time we saw more game in Hwange (we stayed in a private lodge just outside the park, as I recall), but, of course, Kruger was easy to get to and better for driving in our own car (I was working in Maputo and had my own car). If you go on a tour in Hwange, could be fine. We drove from Maputo to Joburg to Bulawayo to Hwange to Vic Falls without a problem re roads, but that was, as I said, a few years back. I assume Kruger would be more crowded.