Travel Photography - Monument Valley Photography Guide

I am taking a week long photography trip to the Four Corners region in late April. Planning 2-3 days in the Monument Valley area. I understand that to go anywhere off the main road in the Valley requires an accompanying guide (and a permit). Any recommendations and experiences would be appreciated.

Also suggestions for locales starting in Albuquerque, then to Farmington (Ghost Ranch on the way), and then MV. Not sure about the return to ALQ. Perhaps Acoma, although I know that photography is limited there.

Thanks.

S.

Can't help with the guide question (stayed on the allowed roads) but do NOT miss Canyon de Chelly while you're in the area. See the rim as well as the valley floor, e.g. :

http://gardyloo.us/canyonchelly2sm.jpg

Would you like a response to all your questions and proposed 700 mile round-trip in one of the most scenic regions of the world in 50 words or less? :D

I lived in ABQ for a couple of years and didn't get to do everything I wanted to so the idea of a one-week whirlwind trip makes my head spin.

I suppose it starts with your planned route.

I could lay out several routes that get you to MV and back in a week but none of them would hit all of the major points let alone all of the points that are less well known but just as interesting.

If I had to nail it down to a single, coherent route I suppose that it would look something like [1] take the "back road" [14] around the Sandias [through Madrid, etc.] to Santa Fe, then [2] take 285/502 through Los Alamos, the [3] west to Chaco Canyon, then from there to the Farmington area, then [4] to MV and then [5] to Antelope Canyon.

From there it depends on whether or not you plan on returning to ABQ.

Of course there are many things to see along this route so maybe if you have a more firm idea of what routing you might take I could be more specific.

In general, heading west/northwest from ABQ I would consider things like Santa Fe, the Los Alamos caldera, Chaco Canyon [public], and Antelope Canyon [guide required] to be "must sees".

Whether or not you hit places like Walnut Canyon and Acoma depend on how/if you circle back to ABQ.

I haven't made that trip yet, though seeing Monument Valley in several films is what sent me on trips to Arches, Bryce, Zion, and several other fantastic locations in the red rock deserts of that part of the southwest. From those trips, I'd recommend Laurent Martres' Photographing the Southwest vol 2 -- Arizona (http://amzn.to/HbAcE7). His advice was absolutely spot-on for just about every place I've traveled in the southwest--and yes, he does indicate that you need a Navajo guide for the best parts of Monument Valley.

If you travel at all from ABQ up toward SAF,
Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument (http://www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/rio_puerco/kasha_katuwe_tent_rocks.html) is worth a stop along I-25. In addition to the eponymous tent rocks, it has a few sections of slot canyon which are an easy hike and make for interesting photography if you've not visited any of the southwest's more famous slot canyons--and which are more accessible than places like Zebra or Spooky and don't require a guide like Antelope Canyon.

Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I have been to this area several times but this is the first one solely for photography (and alone). Places I have already done are Santa Fe and Taos Pueblo (the Turtle Dance celebration, which did not allow photography, and then later when photography was allowed with a permit). Also, Rancho de Taos, of course. Went to Ghost Ranch quite a few years ago, and took photos (film) but the camera was stolen before I got to develop them. Major bummer. GR is already on my list.

I have also been to Acoma Sky City and Canyon de Chelly but prior to doing any serious photography. Took two trips to the canyon floor, once by horseback and the other by 4WD. Simply spectacular, with a very interesting guides. On horseback, the guide was very quiet. I managed to engage him a bit and he became comfortable with conversation. We talked about many issues - BIA, alcoholism and poverty on the reservation, his religion. I will never forget that experience.

Will check out Antelope and Walnut Canyons and Kasha-Katuwe. I have already purchased all three of Laurent Martres' books, exerda. Just need to find the time to do some serious reading and planning, although I like to be as spontaneous as possible.

Thanks again. Will keep you posted.

Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I have been to this area several times but this is the first one solely for photography (and alone). Places I have already done are Santa Fe and Taos Pueblo (the Turtle Dance celebration, which did not allow photography, and then later when photography was allowed with a permit). Also, Rancho de Taos, of course. Went to Ghost Ranch quite a few years ago, and took photos (film) but the camera was stolen before I got to develop them. Major bummer. GR is already on my list.

I have also been to Acoma Sky City and Canyon de Chelly but prior to doing any serious photography. Took two trips to the canyon floor, once by horseback and the other by 4WD. Simply spectacular, with a very interesting guides. On horseback, the guide was very quiet. I managed to engage him a bit and he became comfortable with conversation. We talked about many issues - BIA, alcoholism and poverty on the reservation, his religion. I will never forget that experience.

Will check out Antelope and Walnut Canyons and Kasha-Katuwe. I have already purchased all three of Laurent Martres' books, exerda. Just need to find the time to do some serious reading and planning, although I like to be as spontaneous as possible.

Thanks again. Will keep you posted.

Antelope Canyon is a truly amazing place.

Yes, it has been photographed to death - almost to the point of being a cliche - but even just as an experience it is well worth the effort. Also make sure to time your visit so you get the best light.

I would also make an effort to visit Chaco Canyon and Pueblo Bonito if you haven't already, another truly amazing place and it is also "on the way" from ABQ to Farmington [make sure to climb the slot/crevice steps so you can see Pueblo Bonito from the plateau above [just don't think about the movie 127 Hours ;)].

Antelope Canyon appears to be at least a 2 hour drive from Monument Valley (will be staying at the View Hotel for 3 nights). The Antelope tour that seems the most appropriate is 11:30am-2pm. I could devote one of those days to Monument Valley and the other to Antelope Valley. The latter would be quite a lot of driving but I prefer to spend the nights at the View.

Does this make sense?

Antelope Canyon appears to be at least a 2 hour drive from Monument Valley (will be staying at the View Hotel for 3 nights). The Antelope tour that seems the most appropriate is 11:30am-2pm. I could devote one of those days to Monument Valley and the other to Antelope Valley. The latter would be quite a lot of driving but I prefer to spend the nights at the View.

Does this make sense?

That sounds very doable.

I was last at Antelope Canyon in '96. As I remember you drive to the entrance, park [just an informal dirt area] and then wait for a truck and pay the driver to take you to the canyons. It appeared to me that the trucks were being driven just by random members of the Navajo Nation in their own vehicles, by which I mean there weren't any organized tour vans, etc. but I seem to remember a friend telling me a few years ago that the process had changed somewhat, was somehow more formal now.

Late morning to mid-afternoon is best for the light; too early or too late and the sun will be too low in the sky to reach into the canyons.

As for Monument Valley, you can have a meaningful experience in three hours or three days. You just sort of drive around and take it in.

I also don't think that one necessarily has a lesser experience by just paying the access fee to drive around yourself as opposed to paying the much higher guided tour fee and seeing Hunts Mesa - then again I have done both so...

They have tours of Antelope at 6 times per day. The 11:30 is limited to 12, spends more time in the canyon, and is intended for experienced photographers (http://www.antelopecanyon.com/extended_tour.html).

They have tours of Antelope at 6 times per day. The 11:30 is limited to 12, spends more time in the canyon, and is intended for experienced photographers (http://www.antelopecanyon.com/extended_tour.html).

:eek:

A website, reservations, brochures, tour operators...

Things appear to have changed a lot - in the last 15 years [feeling old][/feeling old]

:eek:

A website, reservations, brochures, tour operators...

Things appear to have changed a lot - in the last 15 years [feeling old][/feeling old]

It happens. I suspect I have a "few" years on you.

I have dreamed of taking photos of a canyon like this. Thanks for making me aware of it.

It never hurts to look behind you now and then as well. You might be surprised...


http://images112.fotki.com/v355/photos/2/211932/9583670/068MONUMENTVALLEYREARVIEW-vi.jpg ( http://public.fotki.com/Seat2A/spring-2011-travels/068-monument-valley.html)


http://images36.fotki.com/v1184/photos/2/211932/6090982/UT95WHITECANYONREARVIEWMIRRIR-vi.jpg ( http://public.fotki.com/Seat2A/alice-springs-to-te/ut95whitecanyonrear.html)

Very nice! I will keep an eye on the mirrors.

Signed up for Tom Phillips' photo guide tour today. 4+ hours starting before sunrise, a 2-3 hour break, then 4 hours ending after sunset. All very informal. His nephew called him to confirm he was available on one of two days I am available, took down my name and that was it. No deposit. Cancellation policy - just call us a day in advance.

2A, what time of the year were your shots taken?

I will third (or fourth, or fifth?) the recommendation for Antelope. An amazing place! I am 99% positive I did that same exact extended tour linked to a few posts above, in 2008. Highly recommended!


http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3260/2455422365_f90930e8bc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/penner42/2455422365/)
Upper Antelope Canyon (http://www.flickr.com/photos/penner42/2455422365/) by penner42 (http://www.flickr.com/people/penner42/), on Flickr

Polarizer really helps bring out the color of the rocks in the bright light.

I will third (or fourth, or fifth?) the recommendation for Antelope. An amazing place! I am 99% positive I did that same exact extended tour linked to a few posts above, in 2008. Highly recommended!


http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3260/2455422365_f90930e8bc.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/penner42/2455422365/)
Upper Antelope Canyon (http://www.flickr.com/photos/penner42/2455422365/) by penner42 (http://www.flickr.com/people/penner42/), on Flickr

I am really looking forward to this trip. I plan to take a 16-35 vr lens for the Canyon. Is that a good choice? Assume I will not need a longer lens (70-200). A tripod is recommended. Is it really necessary?

Polarizer really helps bring out the color of the rocks in the bright light.

Thanks for the tip!

I am really looking forward to this trip. I plan to take a 16-35 vr lens for the Canyon. Is that a good choice? Assume I will not need a longer lens (70-200). A tripod is recommended. Is it really necessary?

Yes, tripod is necessary. It's dark inside, and flash is useless as it lights up all the dust in the air. You're going to want long exposures. The picture I posted here was 30 seconds.

16-35 should be fine. If you have a crop sensor instead of full frame you MAY want wider, but shouldn't need it. The longer lens isn't needed, and you won't be wanting to change lenses inside the canyon. A ton of dust and you just wanna keep the sensor covered until you leave. You're also going to want to clean everything afterwards.

Also, you should check out the Lower Antelope Canyon as well. When I went, you had to pay a "tourguide fee" but could roam it freely and didn't need to have a guide with you. It doesn't get the light beams coming through like the upper canyon, but the colors and lighting are still amazing.

Edit: realized I had a link to the tour I took in that photo's flickr comments. It was this one (http://www.antelopeslotcanyon.com/tours/antelope.html) (the photographic 2.5 hour one), not the same as the one linked above. I'm sure both are excellent, though.

I am really looking forward to this trip. I plan to take a 16-35 vr lens for the Canyon. Is that a good choice? Assume I will not need a longer lens (70-200). A tripod is recommended. Is it really necessary?

Yeah, a tripod is mandatory, even with VR. IMO a DR-5/6 is also very useful though with a combination of LiveView and chimping it isn't mandatory. An MC-36 [or the great and cheap ML-L3 if you are using a DX camera] or some other type of release is also nice to have. You can of course use the self-timer or mirror-up function but a release is much easier/faster/less fussy.

If you still have your D700 then the 16-35 will be perfect, if you have switched to DX then it wouldn't hurt to bring a 10-20/12-24 if you have one.

When I was there with my N90s in '96 I only had an AF 35-70 f/2.8D and a AF 28 f/2.8D. I remember thinking that I would have killed for a 20 or 24.

Yeah, a tripod is mandatory, even with VR. IMO a DR-5/6 is also very useful though with a combination of LiveView and chimping it isn't mandatory. An MC-36 [or the great and cheap ML-L3 if you are using a DX camera] or some other type of release is also nice to have. You can of course use the self-timer or mirror-up function but a release is much easier/faster/less fussy.

If you still have your D700 then the 16-35 will be perfect, if you have switched to DX then it wouldn't hurt to bring a 10-20/12-24 if you have one.

When I was there with my N90s I only had an AF 35-70 f/2.8D and a AF 28 f/2.8D. I remember thinking that I would have killed for a 20 or 24.

I have a D700 and a D7000. Use the latter with the 70-200 to get extra reach in good light. For low images (performers at Jazz Alley, for example), the D700 and the 70-200 work great!

Must admit I don't use a tripod very often but know that I probably should.

I have a D700 and a D7000. Use the latter with the 70-200 to get extra reach in good light. For low images (performers at Jazz Alley, for example), the D700 and the 70-200 work great!

Must admit I don't use a tripod very often but know that I probably should.

With two camera bodies, I recommend bringing both in with different lenses on them so you have the flexibility of either one but don't have to change lenses in the dusty canyon.

2A, what time of the year were your shots taken?

Both were taken in April, but hey - it's all good all year in that part of the world. Have fun!

With two camera bodies, I recommend bringing both in with different lenses on them so you have the flexibility of either one but don't have to change lenses in the dusty canyon.

I don't have another lens that would be very useful. Also, lugging two cameras with lenses and a tripod is probably more than I can handle.

Both were taken in April, but hey - it's all good all year in that part of the world. Have fun!

That's when I am going! Really looking forward to this trip.

I am confused about the requirement for a photography permit on tribal lands. The cost seems to range from minimal to several hundred dollars, and, according to some discussions, depends on whether you are a professional or not. The definition of professional is vague.

I have a Smugmug website where my images are offered for sale. Does that make me a professional? I consider it a serious hobby - a good thing since I have a busy day job and spend much more on photo equipment, trips, etc., than I get from sales.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I am confused about the requirement for a photography permit on tribal lands. The cost seems to range from minimal to several hundred dollars, and, according to some discussions, depends on whether you are a professional or not. The definition of professional is vague.

I have a Smugmug website where my images are offered for sale. Does that make me a professional? I consider it a serious hobby - a good thing since I have a busy day job and spend much more on photo equipment, trips, etc., than I get from sales.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I think that you can honestly claim yourself as a hobbyist.

IMO the Navajos are more interested in the Peter Lik's of the world [not an endorsement of his photos images, just an example :o] making tens of thousands of dollars from photos taken on their lands.

Can't help with the guide question (stayed on the allowed roads) but do NOT miss Canyon de Chelly while you're in the area. See the rim as well as the valley floor, e.g. :

http://gardyloo.us/canyonchelly2sm.jpg


This is gorgeous. Where taken? Missed it when I was there a couple of times.

I padded a trip to the Wave this summer (early June) with an extra day to account for the chance of travel issues (or possibly inclement weather, though if that's the case I'm sure the next morning's walk-up permit lottery will be hip deep)... so I think I'm going to tack on Antelope Canyon during that extra day.

I'll be interested to hear how the trip goes, SeAAtle, as I'm torn between the different photo tours at the moment--one which gets there at 10:30, and one which gets there at 11:30.

I padded a trip to the Wave this summer (early June) with an extra day to account for the chance of travel issues (or possibly inclement weather, though if that's the case I'm sure the next morning's walk-up permit lottery will be hip deep)... so I think I'm going to tack on Antelope Canyon during that extra day.

I'll be interested to hear how the trip goes, SeAAtle, as I'm torn between the different photo tours at the moment--one which gets there at 10:30, and one which gets there at 11:30.

The 11:30 is specifically for photographers. I made my res about a month ahead and got the last seat for that day. You might want to decide soon since June may be even busier. Will let you know how my trip goes.

The 11:30 is specifically for photographers. I made my res about a month ahead and got the last seat for that day. You might want to decide soon since June may be even busier. Will let you know how my trip goes.

Thanks--I'll get in contact with the guides today to try to pin down a June slot (I can go either at the beginning or end of my trip, so I've got flexibility).

The 10:30 was also designated as for photographers, just from a different guide (both I believe are 2.5 hours in length designed to be there when the light shafts are at their peak).

Good luck and shooting!

I went in December 2007 and paid to have the expertise of a local guide, found via this website:

http://www.monumentvalley.com/Pages/english_tours.html

They know the exact locations and times of day to get the best photos, and have worked with many film studios, professional photographers etc.

It's not cheap, but they drive you in their vehicle and your entry permit is included.

Photo Guide Service

Guiding serious photographers is one of our specialties. Tom Phillips has worked with many professional photographers and knows the changing light of Monument Valley like no one else. A custom guided photographic tour with Tom is the best way to realize the full photographic potential of this spectacular and legendary landscape. For sunrise photos of the Totem Pole, we leave the Visitor Center an hour before sunrise. After sunrise, we then move on to one of three sand dune locations, and depending on available time we might visit two arches. Of course, 4 hours is not enough to exhaust the photographic possibilities of Monument Valley, but this is our shortest tour. For an all-day photo experience, Tom will take you out 4 to 5 hours in the morning and again for 4 to 5 hours in the evening. This leaves time in the middle of the day for lunch, napping or sightseeing. Specialized photo tours are $30 an hour per person or, for the morning and evening, sunrise-sunset tour, $220 per person.

I went in December 2007 and paid to have the expertise of a local guide, found via this website:

http://www.monumentvalley.com/Pages/english_tours.html

They know the exact locations and times of day to get the best photos, and have worked with many film studios, professional photographers etc.

It's not cheap, but they drive you in their vehicle and your entry permit is included.

That's the tour I am taking, early am, a break for lunch and a nap, and then back out for sunset. According to his nephew, Tom does the tours himself "unless he is sick or has to go town that day". Then the nephew, Ray, does it. All very informal, no deposit, pay after the tour by personal check, travelers check or cash. No credit cards.

SeAAttle, we look forward to a recap/trip report and any images you feel like sharing! Hope the trip was a blast--I'm counting down the days until mine in June. :)

I have been swamped since I returned but finally back to report.

Monument Valley was spectacular. Great weather and Ray, the Navajo photographer/guide, was exceptional. Picked me up at the hotel* at 5am and took me to his favorite spot for sunrise. About 30 minutes of shooting the sunrise and reflected light off the rocks. Ray (nephew of Tom Phillips) really knows his stuff. Would look at shots on the LCD and recommend changes in settings. Then another 4+ hours going to several other sites in MV. Back to the hotel for lunch and a nap. Ray picked me up again at 4pm and we went to Mystery Valley. Remarkable ruins, petroglyphs, etc. We did not see a single other person. The finale was an view of the whole valley with Monument Valley in the distance. Shot panoramas and many individual images for about an hour as the light changed. Unforgettable day.

Antelope Canyon was chaotic. Took the 11-1 photography tour - 8 people, only 5 with cameras and only three of us with tripods. Had a terrific guide but the other large tour groups (15-25 people) were uncontrolled. They were supposed to wait until the group ahead left an area before entering but that was not followed. Lots of shouting by tour guides to people who did not understand English. Our guide warned us to hang on to our tripods so they were not knocked over. Used bracketing but was often interrupted by people walking in front of me. Things did calm down but I never really got to enjoy the Canyon. The dust was a big problem. Grit in the lenses, etc. One of the three of us with tripods always had a blower to clear the lens right before someone shot. In the end it was worth it, but sometimes very frustrating. Have not really had time to look carefully at my shots, but some look very promising.

More later.

*The View Hotel is great with spectacular views of Monument Valley. Book well in advance.