Central America - San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Good day all,
I am about to take my first vacation in some 2 years and have found an excellent deal in San Juan del Sur (SJDS), Nicaragua. We (with wife and 7 year old) will be leaving in about a week and have lodging (6 nights) and air (ORD-MIA-MGA with AA) all set up.
My questions remain with the the possibility of renting a car for the duration and would like to get some recommendations.
What are the most relaibale auto rental concerns in MGA?
Is getting a small (ish) car enough for someone who is going to SJDS and visiting a few volcanoes, or should one shell out considerably more for an SUV? I don't expect to do any off-roading, but then I don't know the conditions of the roads, either. Also, having grown up in Europe and driving everything from Fiat 500's to Lada's to MB's (but not SUV's, as I like the closer to the ground feeling), I am quite aware of the type of vehicles that are offered. I value independance and that is why I really don't want drivers, or to be "chained" to a resort.
I have read from several sources that the police patrol and stop cars with foreigners. Does this actually still happen, and if so how do the police know to stop those particular vehicles (are there certain markings on the license plate - car rental stickers, odd car colour, etc.)? I well understand about not driving at night.
Any suggestions in getting from MGA to SJDS without going through Managua itself?
Also, any other ideas for day trips from SJDS (are the volcanoes in the North really too far for a day trip?).
Thanks fellow FT'ers, I appreciate any and all repsonses.
AŽ

My questions remain with the the possibility of renting a car for the duration and would like to get some recommendations.
What are the most relaibale auto rental concerns in MGA?

I've rented at MGA from Budget, but hired a driver as it is very very easy to get lost/turned around in Managua. I rented a small car and it got around just fine. We went on several roads that were not paved. I think you should probably be fine without an SUV, but it all depends on where you are going. I had a car for 8 days and went all over the country and had no problem.

Yes, you may be stopped. Especially if you are traveling in or around Holy Week. I believe the first time you may encounter this is when you are about to leave Managua on the south side of town near the large mall.. and probably once again between Managua and Masaya. They will do this near roundabout or stop signs where you are slowing down. They will take one good look at you and try and profile you.. they will stop you if they think they can get some money. I've had this happen twice while I was driving and gave a $5 bribe. I would probably not probably give a bribe again and stand up for myself, but at the time I did not want the hassle and thought it would be better to give $5 then to have them waste my time.

I don't believe there is any way to get around Managua trying to get to San Juan. I would hit up Granada and Masaya. Personally I would skip seeing Leon because of the drive and I didn't think it was worth seeing. I'd go see the volcano in Masaya and visit their market. Just remember to have $10 cash per person when you land in Managua to pay for the tourist fee. You can PM me if you have any questions.

I would probably avoid renting a car in Nica, as posted earlier, that it's really easy to get turned around. Why not take the Paxeos shuttle down to SJDS and just cab around there whenever you need a ride? It's a lot less stressful.

My questions remain with the the possibility of renting a car for the duration and would like to get some recommendations.
What are the most relaibale auto rental concerns in MGA?

I've rented at MGA from Budget, but hired a driver as it is very very easy to get lost/turned around in Managua. I rented a small car and it got around just fine. We went on several roads that were not paved. I think you should probably be fine without an SUV, but it all depends on where you are going. I had a car for 8 days and went all over the country and had no problem.

Yes, you may be stopped. Especially if you are traveling in or around Holy Week. I believe the first time you may encounter this is when you are about to leave Managua on the south side of town near the large mall.. and probably once again between Managua and Masaya. They will do this near roundabout or stop signs where you are slowing down. They will take one good look at you and try and profile you.. they will stop you if they think they can get some money. I've had this happen twice while I was driving and gave a $5 bribe. I would probably not probably give a bribe again and stand up for myself, but at the time I did not want the hassle and thought it would be better to give $5 then to have them waste my time.

I don't believe there is any way to get around Managua trying to get to San Juan. I would hit up Granada and Masaya. Personally I would skip seeing Leon because of the drive and I didn't think it was worth seeing. I'd go see the volcano in Masaya and visit their market. Just remember to have $10 cash per person when you land in Managua to pay for the tourist fee. You can PM me if you have any questions.
Hello Astrophsx,
Thank you kindly for your extended reply. I seem to get the idea that driving is not as bad there as I have been scared into thinking from other forums/sites that I have read. As I value independance, I usually rent a vehicle (save for places that are really high risk). Seeing that it's not really the rainy season, I believe that we can get by with a smaller/medium size vehicle quite nicely (as I don't plan on getting into mud or going off road). Thanks for sharing your experience in that respect. I just hope that they don't rent me a red car so that I don't stick out. I beleive my fluent Italian with staccato Spanish should be able to get me by in speaking over there. I have packed small denominated $ notes for tips and any other small necessities. Also, thanks for your tip on the $10 tourist fee; is there perhaps also an exit fee?? I'm really looking forward to exploring this country a bit. Cheers.

I would probably avoid renting a car in Nica, as posted earlier, that it's really easy to get turned around. Why not take the Paxeos shuttle down to SJDS and just cab around there whenever you need a ride? It's a lot less stressful.
Thanks IaninDC,
I understand the possible stress, but I will be arriving mid-day so I should have pleanty of time to get down to SJDS. It's just that I value going somewhere on a moments notice and love exploring, that I am opting for a vehicle. All the best.

There is no exit fee.

I completely understand you wanting to be independent and being able to have the freedom to explore the country on your own. I just think you will be in for a bit of a reality check when it comes to driving through Managua. Even locals do not like driving through the city to the airport. I feel driving within Managua is as bad as it may have been described and you should avoid it if possible. I'm not sure what the back roads are like, but I can tell you that it gets darker a bit early down there and I would not want to drive on those roads at night as there are almost no street lights and people will be walking on the road at all hours of the day/night and it is very easy to hit them as they move at the last second.

If I was you I would look into getting a taxi or shuttle to one of the western hotel chains on the south part of town and then renting a car from the hotel. It could save you a lot of time and frustration. I've seen some shuttle prices to San Juan and the are quite high (guessing from the length of the drive).

This is the car I rented. Probably one of the smaller ones on the lot, but fairly typical looking rental. Manual, but great gas mileage. It is a bit small if you have a lot of luggage, but if I was able to make it down to San Juan and to the volcano in this... than you should be fine.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/296138_10100358850627429_16802362_50825454_1775346 039_n.jpg

[QUOTE=Astrophsx;18235339]There is no exit fee.

I completely understand you wanting to be independent and being able to have the freedom to explore the country on your own. I just think you will be in for a bit of a reality check when it comes to driving through Managua. Even locals do not like driving through the city to the airport. I feel driving within Managua is as bad as it may have been described and you should avoid it if possible. I'm not sure what the back roads are like, but I can tell you that it gets darker a bit early down there and I would not want to drive on those roads at night as there are almost no street lights and people will be walking on the road at all hours of the day/night and it is very easy to hit them as they move at the last second.

If I was you I would look into getting a taxi or shuttle to one of the western hotel chains on the south part of town and then renting a car from the hotel. It could save you a lot of time and frustration. I've seen some shuttle prices to San Juan and the are quite high (guessing from the length of the drive).

This is the car I rented. Probably one of the smaller ones on the lot, but fairly typical looking rental. Manual, but great gas mileage. It is a bit small if you have a lot of luggage, but if I was able to make it down to San Juan and to the volcano in this... than you should be fine.

Looks a little small, but one that I can drive no problem. I once fit 8 people in a Fiat 127 running around Rome - that was ages ago. Cheers.

Good day all,
I am about to take my first vacation in some 2 years and have found an excellent deal in San Juan del Sur (SJDS), Nicaragua. We (with wife and 7 year old) will be leaving in about a week and have lodging (6 nights) and air (ORD-MIA-MGA with AA) all set up.
My questions remain with the the possibility of renting a car for the duration and would like to get some recommendations.
What are the most relaibale auto rental concerns in MGA?
Is getting a small (ish) car enough for someone who is going to SJDS and visiting a few volcanoes, or should one shell out considerably more for an SUV? I don't expect to do any off-roading, but then I don't know the conditions of the roads, either. Also, having grown up in Europe and driving everything from Fiat 500's to Lada's to MB's (but not SUV's, as I like the closer to the ground feeling), I am quite aware of the type of vehicles that are offered. I value independance and that is why I really don't want drivers, or to be "chained" to a resort.
I have read from several sources that the police patrol and stop cars with foreigners. Does this actually still happen, and if so how do the police know to stop those particular vehicles (are there certain markings on the license plate - car rental stickers, odd car colour, etc.)? I well understand about not driving at night.
Any suggestions in getting from MGA to SJDS without going through Managua itself?
Also, any other ideas for day trips from SJDS (are the volcanoes in the North really too far for a day trip?).
Thanks fellow FT'ers, I appreciate any and all repsonses.
AŽ

I am not sure if you're gone or not but I am in Nicaragua every 6-8 weeks and have been for the last 8 years.

I have never rented a car and never will, I have a driver with his own car. To drive in the country is an experience with some caveats.

First nobody obeys any traffic laws and this is much worse at night. They will run traffic lights, as an example. Signals exist not to use, to use wrongly or to burn out and never be fixed. Brake lights, too.

Second if there is an accident the driver is liable and can be held in custody until things are settled, and that can be a challenge. Plus the one person in the car you bump at 3 km/h will be 8 guys all with various injuries who will say they were in it and you were going 80 km/h. The car you hit will be a rust bucket so it won't be apparent. Your car but use of a local driver is preferred. He faces the pokey not you. Insurance deals with it eventually, but better him than you.

Third, in Managua proper there are no street names save a handful, no house numbers, all directions are relative to landmarks (many long gone so you have to know where they were, not are) and using the location of the lake, and the rising and setting sun. Only "south" (sur) is actually used in the context of directions.

There are shakedowns where 100 cordobas helps. A real fine is more like 400 so 100 is cheap, not so cheap however when you didn't do anything. They will recognize you as a tourist in a newer car unless you look pretty Nicaraguan. The likely lack of Spanish fluency will be a tipoff as well and they don't speak a word of English (which can actually help as they'll get fed up eventually).

Budget and others will rent a car with a driver. I think a driver adds maybe $15 a day or so. Going to SJDS adds complexity to that since the driver gets stuck in SJDS. He could bus home and come back mind you.

A good Managua hotel can arrange a proper car with driver that will take you there and come and pick you up probably (most certainly) than the cost of a week of a rental car and insurance. I am guessing with gas maybe $50 US each way (and that might even be high). Or you can take shuttle buses as suggested and local taxis which are very cheap .

I think there are some aimed at tourists but not locals and above one was mentioned.

You can get to SJDS and points south from the airport without going through Managua. You can go to Tipitapa which is on the highway (C. Norte) accessed by turning right as exiting the airport (left takes you to Managua on Carratera Norte and to go south you have to pass through the entire city basically - to Carretra Sur and south through El Crucero. On Hwy1/ Panamerican Hwy.) . Tipitapa is maybe 15 minutes drive then you exit right and find this road connecting to C. Masaya and you are on the way.

This road through Tipitapa connects, passing some of the Zona Franca factories, to Carratera Masaya at about (guessing here) Km. 25 or so just before going up the hill to Masaya. You'll need a local to tell you but it is an OK road from the airport and a very good road to C. Masaya and all points south. No 4 X 4 needed.

From there you can take a pleasant drive via the Pueblas Blancas and San Marcos - Jinotepe which gets you on the road to Rivas and SJDS.

Go to google maps, center on Managua, look east from the airport, then find NIC 11 from Tipitapa then Masaya to Catarina (stop there if you can) then to Masatepe - San Marcos - Jinotepe where you rejoin NIC 1 south. This area - is a wonderful area to visit.

I don't know why you'd go to SJDS then go all the way back north through Managua and north to Leon for the volcanoes. If you are in SJDS you should investigate a tour/day trip to Ometepe where there are volcanoes and which is far closer than Leon is.

The point about sunset is valid. Sunrise - sunset is 6 and 6 +/- 15 minutes year round given the location vis-a-vis the equator.

Exit fees are in your ticket not paid like in CR or Cuba.

Post anything more you'd like to know. Other than RAAN and RAAS I have covered almost all of the country at one time or another.

I don't believe there is any way to get around Managua trying to get to San Juan. I would hit up Granada and Masaya.

Yes, there is and it is shorter than going in a big circle. See my post above.

Dollar rental car is decent, I rent from them when I'm down about every other month. They have a newer fleet of Toyota 4x4s, get a Fortuner or Prado, not a Hilux if you want to have secure storage for luggage, surf boards etc. They'll deliver the renal car to any hotel, and they have a rental office at the Princess Hilton in managua.

The drive from Managua to San Juan isn't bad and there are lots of fun things to go explore.

Some of the sites you can drive yourself, but you'll need 4x4 or they'll make you go with one of their drivers and trucks - which is nowhere near as fun as driving yourself up a volcano.