bamboola
Jul 20, 03, 5:17 pm
After a far too long absence, Husband and I decided to return to France for a long overdue return visit. We even convinced Teen-Age Son (TAS) to come along on his first European vacation.
Due to the weak dollar and the overall weak American economy, we strived to do the trip “on the cheap.” We used miles to obtain three award tickets. We were able to use a friend’s Montmartre apartment for two weeks. However, doing things “on the cheap” has its disadvantages. On a previous stay, I had rented an apartment in the 6e Arrondissement. I hadn’t realized that apartments in the 18e would be significantly different. To be kind, I would describe our Montmartre apartment as “basic” or “rustic.”
Hilton Paris:
After two weeks in Montmartre, we were ready to be pampered. On our last full day in Paris, I did laundry (more on that in a different thread) and cleaned the apartment. We then moved to the Hilton Paris for our last night using points. Although I had requested a room with an Eiffel Tower view, we got a room with no view on the 10th floor.
To make up for the lack of view, we were given a mini-suite, which consisted of a bedroom with a queen bed and a sitting area separated from the bedroom by a screen. The hotel provided a roll-away for TAS. The large bedroom area could have easily accommodated two roll-away beds. There was also a dressing area with a padded bench.
The bathroom was also very large and had great toiletries, including cologne and bath salt. Of course, there was a bidet. Husband and TAS also liked the terry-cloth slippers, which came sealed in plastic bags.
The Executive Lounge was also on the 10th floor. Upon checking in at 2:00 p.m, we went to the Lounge to see what was available. There was wine, beer, champagne, and the usual assortment of soft drinks. In addition, there were several cold salads – shrimp, niçoise, vegetable, etc., and some mini-pastries. This spread is available until 10:30 p.m. Later in the evening, there were also some hot appetizers.
Breakfast in the lounge consisted of granola, cereal, and croissants. There was also sliced ham, turkey, and smoked salmon, and cheese. I went for the fruit salad, yogurt, and the make-it-yourself toast.
The Executive Lounge offers a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower. We were fortunate to be in Paris shortly after the start of the “flashing lights.” Every night, beginning at 10:00 p.m., the lights on the Tower would flash for 10 minutes (i.e. from 10:00 to 10:10) and would be repeated every hour until 2:00 a.m. What a mesmerizing sight!
Although the Business Center states that internet use costs 0.30Euro per minute, we did not see the staff charge anyone. In fact, we checked email and surfed for about an hour.
The one downside of the Hilton Paris is that there is no fitness center. But the friendly and helpful staff more than made up for no fitness center. In fact, shortly after arriving in Paris, we went to the Hilton Paris to get some tourist information. Alain, the concierge, provided maps and answered all our questions. He also helped change our reservations at the Hilton Lyon and the Hilton Charles de Gaulle.
I had booked our Hilton Paris one-night award stay several months in advance. The Diamond Desk had to request an inventory override and make a special arrangement. Since I had booked prior to June 1, 2003, the stay cost 35,000 points. However, now (post-June 1) I wanted to move our stay up one day. I was expecting to pay another 5,000 points for the change, but the change went through with no additional points deducted from my account.
So, thank you Hilton Honors and thank you Hilton Paris for the welcome bottle of wine and cookies. Nous y reviendrons!
Hilton Lyon:
The next day we checked out of the Hilton Paris and took the TGV to Lyon. Why Lyon? Because I was dying to have some quenelles!
Upon arriving at the hotel, a Front Desk clerk escorted us to the 8th floor Executive Lounge where we checked in. We also checked out the next day at the Lounge.
We had requested a king room with a view of the river at the Hilton Lyon. We were given a room with two twin beds pushed together and no view. The room itself was huge with a sitting area. TAS was very intrigued by the plasma TV. By the way, this was a paid stay.
The bathroom was equally large. It had a bathtub in the shape of a quarter-circle. In addition, there was a separate shower stall with a “dripping area” – i.e. the shower area is recessed and then there is another area where you can drip as you dry off.. Although there was no bidet, the double sinks are handy for rinsing out swimsuits. Best of all, there is a heated towel rack that dried everything in no time. And yes, there were those comfy slippers in sealed plastic bags.
The Executive Lounge offers a nice view of the river. From 3:00 to 5:00 p.m., there were pastries, fruit, coffee, and tea. From 6:00 to 8:00, there were canapés. Although hot hors d’oeuvres were advertised, I saw only cold finger sandwiches/canapés. Wine is also available, but no champagne.
Breakfast in the lounge was almost identical to the one at the Hilton Paris, except that Lyon also includes some hot items – scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, and hash browns.
After a dinner of quenelles in Vieux Lyon, we returned to the hotel to find a fruit tray and a bottle of water waiting for us. We then went to check out the Club Santé. Husband and TAS went into the sauna and the hot tub (which overlooks the river.) I went to the “Relaxing Room,” which consists of two vibrating massage chairs.
The rest of the Club Santé consisted of a treadmill and some weights. There was also a room with a tanning bed that costs 5 Euro for ten minutes.
There is a casino in the lower level of the hotel. TAS wanted to explore the casino, but (fortunately for us) couldn’t get in.
The Hilton Lyon was very quiet while we were there. It is not in a very central location. A taxi ride from the train station to the hotel costs around 10 to 15 Euro (depending on amount of luggage, traffic, etc.) But it is a nice modern hotel and the staff is friendly and seem eager to please.
Hilton Noga Cannes:
This summer’s Hilton tour can be described as a three-course meal. Our first week in New York City at the Waldorf=Astoria was the “entrée.” Two weeks in Paris was the “plat principal.” Our final week in Cannes (on a GLONP) was the best – “le dessert.”
“Le dessert” got off to a bad start. We arrived at the Cannes train station around 7:30 p.m. Upon exiting the train station, we turned right to get a taxi. In fact, the taxi stand is to the left. By the time, we got in line, there were about twenty people in front of us. Possibly due to the dinner hour, the first taxi did not arrive until 15 minutes later. By the time we finally got a taxi, we had been waiting for over half an hour.
We were hot and tired and not in the best of moods. Our taxi driver must have had an even worse day. As he loaded our luggage into the trunk, I pointed out to him that another piece was bigger and should perhaps be loaded first. He snaps at me, “Don’t tell me how to arrange things in my car!” Then, when I told him where we wanted to go, he got even more upset. “Why take a taxi when you can walk. The Noga is only 700 meters away! You are wasting my time.”
What a warm welcome to Cannes! However, I must say that this taxi driver was the exception. From that bad start, things got much better.
At check-in, the receptionist personally escorted us to our room on the first floor (i.e. second floor for North Americans.) From previous posts on FlyerTalk, I had been expecting something gaudy and 70ish. Instead, I found our room to be fun and funny.
How to describe the king bed that is raised on a pedastal and surrounded by a curtain of fringes? Yes, Austin Powers comes to mind. One night I literally fell out of bed as I was making my way to the bathroom. I had forgotten that there was a step down.
In addition to the king bed, the room consists of sofa, a round table, and four chairs. Outside the room is a large terrace with two lounge chairs, plus a table and two more chairs.
Then there is the bathroom, which is almost as big as the bedroom. There is a large oval tub, a separate shower (with the best water pressure) and a separate room with a toilet and bidet. There were also two sinks. The two sinks and the bidet were all handy for rinsing out swimsuits. And yes, the entire bathroom ceiling was covered in mirrors! I told Husband that I want the exact same bathroom in our next house.
Strangely, Noga Cannes does not have washcloths in its bathrooms. We had plenty of hand and bath towels, but never saw any washcloths. (At both the Hilton Paris and the Hilton Lyon, washcloths came in sealed plastic bags to ensure cleanliness.) Noga also did not offer terrycloth slippers, which both Paris and Lyon had. And there was no hair conditioner.
Our welcome gift was waiting for us when we entered the room – a half bottle of champagne, a basket of fruit, a small bowl of sweet popcorn, and 11 roses (where did the 12th one go?)
The next day we took the train to Avignon to visit some friends. Upon returning to the room after a long hot day, we were very pleasantly surprised to see another half bottle of champagne, another fruit basket, and a small plate of pastries. Was this to be a daily occurrence, I wondered?
Day three, we went to Nice for the day. Hoping for another half bottle of champagne and another fruit basket, I was greeted with the same ice bucket - leftover from the previous day – empty, of course. Husband and I made a mad dash to Monoprix (near the train station) for champagne, beer, and other provisions. (The Monoprix closes at 7:52 p.m. No, not at 8:00 p.m. The sign clearly states 19:52 p.m. – as precise as the train schedules.)
There is no Executive Lounge at the Noga Cannes. At check-in, we were told that we could order room service or have breakfast at La Scala. Before July 1, breakfast ends at 10:30. Starting July 1, breakfast is extended until 11:00. There was a noticeable difference in service pre-July 1 vs. post June 30. More on that later.
Breakfast at La Scala is an event and consists of juice (orange, apple, pineapple, grapefruit), bread (croissants, pain chocolat, rolls, baquettes, etc.), turkey, ham, mortadella, salami, smoked salmon, herring, cheeses, yogurt, huge bowls of fresh and canned fruit (orange, grapefruit, kiwi, pineapple, pear, peach), scranbled eggs, bacon, and sausage. The first day (which was pre-July 1) there were also small baked stuffed tomatoes.
The first day, I asked for iced tea for breakfast. The waiter looked puzzled, but managed to get me some. The second day, I again asked for iced tea. Again, a puzzled look, but it was delivered. On the third day, the iced tea was automatically delivered to our table without my asking. I was impressed. But on Day 3, I really wanted an iced cappuccino, which I ask for and was promptly delivered. And every morning, Husband would request a double espresso, which was also promptly delivered. (One morning I saw people at the next table order fried eggs. So, it appears that if you don’t see it on the buffet, you can order it.)
Pre-July 1, there was a toaster available. After June 30, the toaster disappeared. The waiter said that it broke, but I think that it disappeared due to the higher occupancy rate. The waiter did say that he would bring me toast if I wanted some.
What was the main difference post-June 30? To accommodate the larger crowd, the hotel brought in a group of “waiters-in-training.” Most of them are 17 or 18-years old. After a year of training, these teenagers can then become “real” waiters. Unfortunately, these “waiters-in-training” did not look very happy. Little things seem to fluster them easily. Perhaps with time…
The one sore point with breakfast at La Scala was the restaurant manager, whom we nicknamed “Mr. Grump Grump.” We never saw him smile. One day we had an especially nice waitress. In addition to giving her a 5 Euro tip (by the way, all tips and service fees were already included), I told Mr. Grump Grump how pleased I was with the service. Little or no reaction.
La Scala is a good-sized restaurant, but the space is doubled by the tables on the outside terrace. One morning, it was very windy. Umbrellas on the terrace were blowing down. Mr. Grump Grump had to go around and tie the umbrellas down.
The next morning, it was still windy, so the terrace was closed. Upon arriving at La Scala, we saw a long line of people waiting for tables. After waiting ten minutes, I asked the hostess if I could take the food back to our room. Our room was on the same floor as La Scala and just a short distance away. The hostess thought it was an excellent idea – not only would we not have to wait, but our eating in our room would free up another table. The hostess even gave me a tray to use to carry the food back to the room.
Shortly after I had loaded up the tray, Mr. Grump Grump arrives. “C’est interdit!” he says. I politely and patiently explained why I was taking food back to the room. “C’est interdit!” he repeats. “Tell me what you want and I will have room service deliver it to you.”
“Can room service simply deliver the food that is on this tray?” I ask. “Non!”
“But all this food will go to waste,” I protested. Mr. Grump Grump does not budge.
Fortunately, just then, we see some people leaving. “Can we have that table so the food on the tray isn’t wasted?” Mr. Grump Grump finally agrees.
Later I asked the hostess if she had gotten into trouble with Mr. Grump Grump because of us. She laughed and said not to worry about him.
Our first night, we had dinner at Le Grand Bleu, the hotel’s casual bar/restaurant. When we asked for some bread, the server said that they had run out of bread. Toward the end of our meal, the restaurant manager came to ask how the meal was. We casually mentioned that we were surprised that there was no bread. The manager also looked surprised and said, “I want you to leave my restaurant with a smile on your face.” He offered us a round of free drinks. TAS and I passed, but Husband took his offer. What a difference in management style.
After three days of running around, we were ready to stay put at the Noga Cannes and just relax. We went down to the Noga beach (about the size of half a city block) and were told that it cost 25 Euro per day per person to rent a lounge chair. That would be almost $100 U.S. per day for the three of us. We then went up to the fifth floor pool and it was the same story – 25 Euro per matelas (mattress) to put on the lounge chair. However, there was a daily special from noon to 2:00 p.m. where you can rent a matelas for only 8 Euro.
The beach closes every day at 6:00 p.m. The pool also officially closes at 6:00 p.m. We found out that, after 6:00 p.m., you can sit in the lounge chairs near the pool for free. However, we found an even better alternative. By calling housekeeping (gouvernante), they brought matelas to the lounge chairs on our terrace for free. Since there were three of us and only two lounge chairs, they even brought us a third one. So, we sunbathed for free!
We were very happy with our first floor room. The advantages include:
1. No need to take the elevator. There are stairs from the main floor up to the first floor.
2. Easy access to breakfast at La Scala, which is on the same floor.
3. Big terrace. Rooms on other floors have balconies, but our terrace is far bigger than the balconies.
4. No missing swimsuits. On two mornings, we discovered mysterious swimsuits on our terrace. We turned them in to the front desk and presume that they fell from the balconies above. Being on the first floor, our swimsuits can’t fly away.
All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed our “dessert” at the Noga Cannes. While the front desk clerks could learn to be more polite, the concierge staff was helpful and friendly. One day as I was asking directions, another client came and asked for a cigarette. The concierge who was helping me brought out a new pack of cigarettes and offered it to the client. After the client left, the concierge asked me, “Do you know who that was?” “No idea.” “That was François Valery.” “Still no idea.” “Well, he’s a singer and was quite famous about ten years ago.”
By this time, the second concierge had joined in the conversation. “Zut! I missed him,” he said. “Maybe you’ll catch him when he comes back,” I say. “But I won’t recognize him,” says the second concierge. “Ask every male client to sing, and if he can sing, then you’ll know it’s him,” I suggested. “Great idea!”
Ah, I miss Cannes already. A la prochaine….
Hilton Charles de Gaulle:
Our final destination – a one-night award stay at CDG before our return flight to the States. We arrived at CDG Terminal 2 via the TGV. The Hilton is closer to Terminal 1. Not being familiar with CDG, we took the Airport Shuttle to Terminal 1. The shuttle drove past the Hilton, but did not stop. To make a long story short, we found out later that the Hilton has its own shuttle service that runs every 15 minutes.
We checked into a king corner room and a rollaway was already in the room. The room itself is large and modern. However, in comparison to the Noga Cannes and our rooms at the Hilton Paris and Lyon, the Hilton CDG just seemed ordinary.
The fitness center consisted of treadmills and one weight machine. TAS was less interested in the fitness center and was more interested in the electric shoe polisher located on each floor near the ice machine.
We used our room key to access the Executive Lounge. There was fruit, some remnants of a pie, and wine, champagne, and liquor. Later in the evening, they brought out cheese, bread, and more alcohol. Finally, at night, there was some digestifs and candy. While others may differ, I would have preferred less alcohol and more food.
We checked out the restaurants – the formal one had a la carte items and also a menu fixe. The informal restaurant offered a buffet – 18 Euro for the cold appetizers, 25 Euro for the hot items, and 14 Euro for the desserts – or 34 Euro for all three. The desserts and the appetizers looked good, but we were not hungry enough to go for the buffet. Instead, TAS decided he wanted a pizza. Room service had a pizza special for under 11 Euro. The pizza was good, but we were a bit surprised at the 3 Euro delivery charge.
Breakfast the next morning consisted of fruit salad, cheese, croissants, bacon, sausage, and scrambled eggs. There was also juice and yogurt. And so, after one last meal, we took the Hilton shuttle to the airport and reluctantly flew home.
Final words:
I debated filing this under Trip Report vs. the Hilton thread. Since this report deals primarily with four French Hilton hotels, I felt it fits more appropriately under Hilton.
While we truly enjoyed our Hilton stays, our most memorable nights were spent in a small village outside Grenoble. There I met old friends and introduced Husband and TAS to them. There we also had our best French meals – all home-cooked! As I watched TAS struggle to communicate in his high-school French with his “French cousins” who speak no English, I envision another generation of friendship developing. Somehow TAS and his “French cousins” managed to talk until 4:00 a.m.
In Avignon, where we met with other friends, TAS and his “French cousine” decided to eat at the restaurant next door. Why? Because the restaurant next door had a machine that sprayed cold steam to cool the customers. Since both restaurants were outdoors, the adults could keep an eye on the two teenagers and watched them converse – again, one with minimal French and the other with no English. The two romantic Moms had visions of an engagement in two years and perhaps a wedding a few years later? What a wonderful excuse to re-visit France time and time again.
[This message has been edited by bamboola (edited 07-20-2003).]
Due to the weak dollar and the overall weak American economy, we strived to do the trip “on the cheap.” We used miles to obtain three award tickets. We were able to use a friend’s Montmartre apartment for two weeks. However, doing things “on the cheap” has its disadvantages. On a previous stay, I had rented an apartment in the 6e Arrondissement. I hadn’t realized that apartments in the 18e would be significantly different. To be kind, I would describe our Montmartre apartment as “basic” or “rustic.”
Hilton Paris:
After two weeks in Montmartre, we were ready to be pampered. On our last full day in Paris, I did laundry (more on that in a different thread) and cleaned the apartment. We then moved to the Hilton Paris for our last night using points. Although I had requested a room with an Eiffel Tower view, we got a room with no view on the 10th floor.
To make up for the lack of view, we were given a mini-suite, which consisted of a bedroom with a queen bed and a sitting area separated from the bedroom by a screen. The hotel provided a roll-away for TAS. The large bedroom area could have easily accommodated two roll-away beds. There was also a dressing area with a padded bench.
The bathroom was also very large and had great toiletries, including cologne and bath salt. Of course, there was a bidet. Husband and TAS also liked the terry-cloth slippers, which came sealed in plastic bags.
The Executive Lounge was also on the 10th floor. Upon checking in at 2:00 p.m, we went to the Lounge to see what was available. There was wine, beer, champagne, and the usual assortment of soft drinks. In addition, there were several cold salads – shrimp, niçoise, vegetable, etc., and some mini-pastries. This spread is available until 10:30 p.m. Later in the evening, there were also some hot appetizers.
Breakfast in the lounge consisted of granola, cereal, and croissants. There was also sliced ham, turkey, and smoked salmon, and cheese. I went for the fruit salad, yogurt, and the make-it-yourself toast.
The Executive Lounge offers a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower. We were fortunate to be in Paris shortly after the start of the “flashing lights.” Every night, beginning at 10:00 p.m., the lights on the Tower would flash for 10 minutes (i.e. from 10:00 to 10:10) and would be repeated every hour until 2:00 a.m. What a mesmerizing sight!
Although the Business Center states that internet use costs 0.30Euro per minute, we did not see the staff charge anyone. In fact, we checked email and surfed for about an hour.
The one downside of the Hilton Paris is that there is no fitness center. But the friendly and helpful staff more than made up for no fitness center. In fact, shortly after arriving in Paris, we went to the Hilton Paris to get some tourist information. Alain, the concierge, provided maps and answered all our questions. He also helped change our reservations at the Hilton Lyon and the Hilton Charles de Gaulle.
I had booked our Hilton Paris one-night award stay several months in advance. The Diamond Desk had to request an inventory override and make a special arrangement. Since I had booked prior to June 1, 2003, the stay cost 35,000 points. However, now (post-June 1) I wanted to move our stay up one day. I was expecting to pay another 5,000 points for the change, but the change went through with no additional points deducted from my account.
So, thank you Hilton Honors and thank you Hilton Paris for the welcome bottle of wine and cookies. Nous y reviendrons!
Hilton Lyon:
The next day we checked out of the Hilton Paris and took the TGV to Lyon. Why Lyon? Because I was dying to have some quenelles!
Upon arriving at the hotel, a Front Desk clerk escorted us to the 8th floor Executive Lounge where we checked in. We also checked out the next day at the Lounge.
We had requested a king room with a view of the river at the Hilton Lyon. We were given a room with two twin beds pushed together and no view. The room itself was huge with a sitting area. TAS was very intrigued by the plasma TV. By the way, this was a paid stay.
The bathroom was equally large. It had a bathtub in the shape of a quarter-circle. In addition, there was a separate shower stall with a “dripping area” – i.e. the shower area is recessed and then there is another area where you can drip as you dry off.. Although there was no bidet, the double sinks are handy for rinsing out swimsuits. Best of all, there is a heated towel rack that dried everything in no time. And yes, there were those comfy slippers in sealed plastic bags.
The Executive Lounge offers a nice view of the river. From 3:00 to 5:00 p.m., there were pastries, fruit, coffee, and tea. From 6:00 to 8:00, there were canapés. Although hot hors d’oeuvres were advertised, I saw only cold finger sandwiches/canapés. Wine is also available, but no champagne.
Breakfast in the lounge was almost identical to the one at the Hilton Paris, except that Lyon also includes some hot items – scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, and hash browns.
After a dinner of quenelles in Vieux Lyon, we returned to the hotel to find a fruit tray and a bottle of water waiting for us. We then went to check out the Club Santé. Husband and TAS went into the sauna and the hot tub (which overlooks the river.) I went to the “Relaxing Room,” which consists of two vibrating massage chairs.
The rest of the Club Santé consisted of a treadmill and some weights. There was also a room with a tanning bed that costs 5 Euro for ten minutes.
There is a casino in the lower level of the hotel. TAS wanted to explore the casino, but (fortunately for us) couldn’t get in.
The Hilton Lyon was very quiet while we were there. It is not in a very central location. A taxi ride from the train station to the hotel costs around 10 to 15 Euro (depending on amount of luggage, traffic, etc.) But it is a nice modern hotel and the staff is friendly and seem eager to please.
Hilton Noga Cannes:
This summer’s Hilton tour can be described as a three-course meal. Our first week in New York City at the Waldorf=Astoria was the “entrée.” Two weeks in Paris was the “plat principal.” Our final week in Cannes (on a GLONP) was the best – “le dessert.”
“Le dessert” got off to a bad start. We arrived at the Cannes train station around 7:30 p.m. Upon exiting the train station, we turned right to get a taxi. In fact, the taxi stand is to the left. By the time, we got in line, there were about twenty people in front of us. Possibly due to the dinner hour, the first taxi did not arrive until 15 minutes later. By the time we finally got a taxi, we had been waiting for over half an hour.
We were hot and tired and not in the best of moods. Our taxi driver must have had an even worse day. As he loaded our luggage into the trunk, I pointed out to him that another piece was bigger and should perhaps be loaded first. He snaps at me, “Don’t tell me how to arrange things in my car!” Then, when I told him where we wanted to go, he got even more upset. “Why take a taxi when you can walk. The Noga is only 700 meters away! You are wasting my time.”
What a warm welcome to Cannes! However, I must say that this taxi driver was the exception. From that bad start, things got much better.
At check-in, the receptionist personally escorted us to our room on the first floor (i.e. second floor for North Americans.) From previous posts on FlyerTalk, I had been expecting something gaudy and 70ish. Instead, I found our room to be fun and funny.
How to describe the king bed that is raised on a pedastal and surrounded by a curtain of fringes? Yes, Austin Powers comes to mind. One night I literally fell out of bed as I was making my way to the bathroom. I had forgotten that there was a step down.
In addition to the king bed, the room consists of sofa, a round table, and four chairs. Outside the room is a large terrace with two lounge chairs, plus a table and two more chairs.
Then there is the bathroom, which is almost as big as the bedroom. There is a large oval tub, a separate shower (with the best water pressure) and a separate room with a toilet and bidet. There were also two sinks. The two sinks and the bidet were all handy for rinsing out swimsuits. And yes, the entire bathroom ceiling was covered in mirrors! I told Husband that I want the exact same bathroom in our next house.
Strangely, Noga Cannes does not have washcloths in its bathrooms. We had plenty of hand and bath towels, but never saw any washcloths. (At both the Hilton Paris and the Hilton Lyon, washcloths came in sealed plastic bags to ensure cleanliness.) Noga also did not offer terrycloth slippers, which both Paris and Lyon had. And there was no hair conditioner.
Our welcome gift was waiting for us when we entered the room – a half bottle of champagne, a basket of fruit, a small bowl of sweet popcorn, and 11 roses (where did the 12th one go?)
The next day we took the train to Avignon to visit some friends. Upon returning to the room after a long hot day, we were very pleasantly surprised to see another half bottle of champagne, another fruit basket, and a small plate of pastries. Was this to be a daily occurrence, I wondered?
Day three, we went to Nice for the day. Hoping for another half bottle of champagne and another fruit basket, I was greeted with the same ice bucket - leftover from the previous day – empty, of course. Husband and I made a mad dash to Monoprix (near the train station) for champagne, beer, and other provisions. (The Monoprix closes at 7:52 p.m. No, not at 8:00 p.m. The sign clearly states 19:52 p.m. – as precise as the train schedules.)
There is no Executive Lounge at the Noga Cannes. At check-in, we were told that we could order room service or have breakfast at La Scala. Before July 1, breakfast ends at 10:30. Starting July 1, breakfast is extended until 11:00. There was a noticeable difference in service pre-July 1 vs. post June 30. More on that later.
Breakfast at La Scala is an event and consists of juice (orange, apple, pineapple, grapefruit), bread (croissants, pain chocolat, rolls, baquettes, etc.), turkey, ham, mortadella, salami, smoked salmon, herring, cheeses, yogurt, huge bowls of fresh and canned fruit (orange, grapefruit, kiwi, pineapple, pear, peach), scranbled eggs, bacon, and sausage. The first day (which was pre-July 1) there were also small baked stuffed tomatoes.
The first day, I asked for iced tea for breakfast. The waiter looked puzzled, but managed to get me some. The second day, I again asked for iced tea. Again, a puzzled look, but it was delivered. On the third day, the iced tea was automatically delivered to our table without my asking. I was impressed. But on Day 3, I really wanted an iced cappuccino, which I ask for and was promptly delivered. And every morning, Husband would request a double espresso, which was also promptly delivered. (One morning I saw people at the next table order fried eggs. So, it appears that if you don’t see it on the buffet, you can order it.)
Pre-July 1, there was a toaster available. After June 30, the toaster disappeared. The waiter said that it broke, but I think that it disappeared due to the higher occupancy rate. The waiter did say that he would bring me toast if I wanted some.
What was the main difference post-June 30? To accommodate the larger crowd, the hotel brought in a group of “waiters-in-training.” Most of them are 17 or 18-years old. After a year of training, these teenagers can then become “real” waiters. Unfortunately, these “waiters-in-training” did not look very happy. Little things seem to fluster them easily. Perhaps with time…
The one sore point with breakfast at La Scala was the restaurant manager, whom we nicknamed “Mr. Grump Grump.” We never saw him smile. One day we had an especially nice waitress. In addition to giving her a 5 Euro tip (by the way, all tips and service fees were already included), I told Mr. Grump Grump how pleased I was with the service. Little or no reaction.
La Scala is a good-sized restaurant, but the space is doubled by the tables on the outside terrace. One morning, it was very windy. Umbrellas on the terrace were blowing down. Mr. Grump Grump had to go around and tie the umbrellas down.
The next morning, it was still windy, so the terrace was closed. Upon arriving at La Scala, we saw a long line of people waiting for tables. After waiting ten minutes, I asked the hostess if I could take the food back to our room. Our room was on the same floor as La Scala and just a short distance away. The hostess thought it was an excellent idea – not only would we not have to wait, but our eating in our room would free up another table. The hostess even gave me a tray to use to carry the food back to the room.
Shortly after I had loaded up the tray, Mr. Grump Grump arrives. “C’est interdit!” he says. I politely and patiently explained why I was taking food back to the room. “C’est interdit!” he repeats. “Tell me what you want and I will have room service deliver it to you.”
“Can room service simply deliver the food that is on this tray?” I ask. “Non!”
“But all this food will go to waste,” I protested. Mr. Grump Grump does not budge.
Fortunately, just then, we see some people leaving. “Can we have that table so the food on the tray isn’t wasted?” Mr. Grump Grump finally agrees.
Later I asked the hostess if she had gotten into trouble with Mr. Grump Grump because of us. She laughed and said not to worry about him.
Our first night, we had dinner at Le Grand Bleu, the hotel’s casual bar/restaurant. When we asked for some bread, the server said that they had run out of bread. Toward the end of our meal, the restaurant manager came to ask how the meal was. We casually mentioned that we were surprised that there was no bread. The manager also looked surprised and said, “I want you to leave my restaurant with a smile on your face.” He offered us a round of free drinks. TAS and I passed, but Husband took his offer. What a difference in management style.
After three days of running around, we were ready to stay put at the Noga Cannes and just relax. We went down to the Noga beach (about the size of half a city block) and were told that it cost 25 Euro per day per person to rent a lounge chair. That would be almost $100 U.S. per day for the three of us. We then went up to the fifth floor pool and it was the same story – 25 Euro per matelas (mattress) to put on the lounge chair. However, there was a daily special from noon to 2:00 p.m. where you can rent a matelas for only 8 Euro.
The beach closes every day at 6:00 p.m. The pool also officially closes at 6:00 p.m. We found out that, after 6:00 p.m., you can sit in the lounge chairs near the pool for free. However, we found an even better alternative. By calling housekeeping (gouvernante), they brought matelas to the lounge chairs on our terrace for free. Since there were three of us and only two lounge chairs, they even brought us a third one. So, we sunbathed for free!
We were very happy with our first floor room. The advantages include:
1. No need to take the elevator. There are stairs from the main floor up to the first floor.
2. Easy access to breakfast at La Scala, which is on the same floor.
3. Big terrace. Rooms on other floors have balconies, but our terrace is far bigger than the balconies.
4. No missing swimsuits. On two mornings, we discovered mysterious swimsuits on our terrace. We turned them in to the front desk and presume that they fell from the balconies above. Being on the first floor, our swimsuits can’t fly away.
All in all, we thoroughly enjoyed our “dessert” at the Noga Cannes. While the front desk clerks could learn to be more polite, the concierge staff was helpful and friendly. One day as I was asking directions, another client came and asked for a cigarette. The concierge who was helping me brought out a new pack of cigarettes and offered it to the client. After the client left, the concierge asked me, “Do you know who that was?” “No idea.” “That was François Valery.” “Still no idea.” “Well, he’s a singer and was quite famous about ten years ago.”
By this time, the second concierge had joined in the conversation. “Zut! I missed him,” he said. “Maybe you’ll catch him when he comes back,” I say. “But I won’t recognize him,” says the second concierge. “Ask every male client to sing, and if he can sing, then you’ll know it’s him,” I suggested. “Great idea!”
Ah, I miss Cannes already. A la prochaine….
Hilton Charles de Gaulle:
Our final destination – a one-night award stay at CDG before our return flight to the States. We arrived at CDG Terminal 2 via the TGV. The Hilton is closer to Terminal 1. Not being familiar with CDG, we took the Airport Shuttle to Terminal 1. The shuttle drove past the Hilton, but did not stop. To make a long story short, we found out later that the Hilton has its own shuttle service that runs every 15 minutes.
We checked into a king corner room and a rollaway was already in the room. The room itself is large and modern. However, in comparison to the Noga Cannes and our rooms at the Hilton Paris and Lyon, the Hilton CDG just seemed ordinary.
The fitness center consisted of treadmills and one weight machine. TAS was less interested in the fitness center and was more interested in the electric shoe polisher located on each floor near the ice machine.
We used our room key to access the Executive Lounge. There was fruit, some remnants of a pie, and wine, champagne, and liquor. Later in the evening, they brought out cheese, bread, and more alcohol. Finally, at night, there was some digestifs and candy. While others may differ, I would have preferred less alcohol and more food.
We checked out the restaurants – the formal one had a la carte items and also a menu fixe. The informal restaurant offered a buffet – 18 Euro for the cold appetizers, 25 Euro for the hot items, and 14 Euro for the desserts – or 34 Euro for all three. The desserts and the appetizers looked good, but we were not hungry enough to go for the buffet. Instead, TAS decided he wanted a pizza. Room service had a pizza special for under 11 Euro. The pizza was good, but we were a bit surprised at the 3 Euro delivery charge.
Breakfast the next morning consisted of fruit salad, cheese, croissants, bacon, sausage, and scrambled eggs. There was also juice and yogurt. And so, after one last meal, we took the Hilton shuttle to the airport and reluctantly flew home.
Final words:
I debated filing this under Trip Report vs. the Hilton thread. Since this report deals primarily with four French Hilton hotels, I felt it fits more appropriately under Hilton.
While we truly enjoyed our Hilton stays, our most memorable nights were spent in a small village outside Grenoble. There I met old friends and introduced Husband and TAS to them. There we also had our best French meals – all home-cooked! As I watched TAS struggle to communicate in his high-school French with his “French cousins” who speak no English, I envision another generation of friendship developing. Somehow TAS and his “French cousins” managed to talk until 4:00 a.m.
In Avignon, where we met with other friends, TAS and his “French cousine” decided to eat at the restaurant next door. Why? Because the restaurant next door had a machine that sprayed cold steam to cool the customers. Since both restaurants were outdoors, the adults could keep an eye on the two teenagers and watched them converse – again, one with minimal French and the other with no English. The two romantic Moms had visions of an engagement in two years and perhaps a wedding a few years later? What a wonderful excuse to re-visit France time and time again.
[This message has been edited by bamboola (edited 07-20-2003).]