California - Furnace Creek Inn quality continues to decline

Just back from three nights in Death Valley. The Furnace Creek resort is run by Xanterra, a company which loves monopoly situations in national parks.

The Furnace Creek Inn is all about location, location, location. That being said, it used to offer a decent service level, never luxury (which is how it is priced), but certainly upscale.

I'd now rate the service as below upscale. No amenities except skin lotion -- the rest are in squirt bottles mounted on the shower wall. Turn down service has been ended. Sheets are not changed without putting a card (hidden in the bathroom with sheets mentioned only in small print) on the bed daily. Food in the restaurant, which used to be pricey but reasonably good remains pricey but is nothing special.

All this is justified as part of Xanterra's "environmental commitment," of course.

Death Valley is a special, wonderful place. The Inn is as good as you are going to get. Just don't expect the high prices to translate into a great hotel.

I wouldn't expect luxury in a national park, no matter what the price. Monopoly concessionaires are pretty typical in national parks. They pay to have this. I've only eaten at Furance Creek Inn; stayed at Furnace Creek Ranch, though it's been a while, and it was, not surprisingly, about location, location, location. It looks like Stovepipe Wells (even more basic) is run by a different concessionaire, dating back decades (is it still running?). We last used a Xanterra hotel at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon (Kachina Lodge). It was fine. Again, one paid extra for the location, but we were still glad we stayed there (had dinner at the El Tovar). A year ago we stayed at the Paradise Inn in Mt. Rainier National Park. Not Xanterra, but very basic (and not cheap). Thin walls, etc. But it's all about location (and, according to them, maintaining the history).

I certainly agree with your comment, my main point is that Xanterra has gone downhill from where the hotel was for a long time. I expected upscale for the price of luxury, what I got was Holiday Inn for the price of luxury. That wasn't previously true.

The issues you mention are quite common across the industry these days - no sheet/towel changing unless requested, no turndown, soap dispensers, generic food etc etc. I wouldn't single out Xanterra here.
Of course NP properties have always been overpriced.

The issues you mention are quite common across the industry these days - no sheet/towel changing unless requested, no turndown, soap dispensers, generic food etc etc. I wouldn't single out Xanterra here.
Of course NP properties have always been overpriced.

They're not common in high-end properties, which this hotel claims to be. They tout their AAA 4-diamond rating all over the place, a rating which clearly is given solely for historical reasons.

Incidentally, for those visiting Death Valley for the first time, gas at Stovepipe Wells is 80 cents a gallon cheaper than at Furnace Creek, although only regular is available. Gas is $1.60 a gallon cheaper in Beatty, NV, than at Furnace Creek.

Monopoly concessionaires are pretty typical in national parks. They pay to have this.

I don't believe Furnace Creek Inn and Ranch are concessions. From what I've read Xanterra owns these properties.

We recently stayed at the Ranch and was surprised there wasn't the squeeze bottle shampoo, shower gel, etc in the bathroom (like other Xanterra properties I've stayed at). While the Ranch rooms are not luxurious, I found it to be very serviceable if pricey. I overheard some loudmouth complaining that he was turned away from dining at the FC Inn because he was wearing jeans. I bet he was turned away because he was obnoxious.

They're in the park so Xanterra might have a long term contract but it's hard to imagine they own the actual land.

As to the guy who was turned away at the Inn dining room: three years ago (my last stay there) it would have been a pity. This time, they did him a favor.

They're in the park so Xanterra might have a long term contract but it's hard to imagine they own the actual land.



The properties are privately owned. I am not sure if Xanterra owns them or some other entity.

I wouldn't expect luxury in a national park, no matter what the price.Have you been to Yosemite? Or Yellowstone?

The Ahwahnee and Lake Yellowstone Hotel can lay claim to a high standard of luxury, and the hotel at Jenny Lake in the Tetons isn't shabby.

Have you been to Yosemite? Or Yellowstone?

The Ahwahnee and Lake Yellowstone Hotel can lay claim to a high standard of luxury, and the hotel at Jenny Lake in the Tetons isn't shabby.

Neither the Ahwahnee or the Furnace Creek Inn are luxury hotels, although (due to location) they are often priced like luxury hotels. Haven't stayed at the others.

These two hotels are, however, the best hotels for miles and miles around.

Neither the Ahwahnee or the Furnace Creek Inn are luxury hotels, although (due to location) they are often priced like luxury hotels. Haven't stayed at the others.

These two hotels are, however, the best hotels for miles and miles around.Not luxury hotels? :confused:

What exactly is your definition of luxury?

Not luxury hotels? :confused:

What exactly is your definition of luxury?

This has been discussed at length in the luxury hotel forum here on FT, but the single biggest distinguishing factor that makes a hotel a luxury hotel is the level of service provided. Hard product, i.e., the rooms, also have to be to a very high standard but there are many hotels meeting that requirement which do not have outstanding service and hence are not luxury hotels.

I would say that both the Ahwahnee and the Furnace Creek Inn do not even meet the hard product standard for a luxury hotel, and at each of them the service level, at its best, does not exceed that of a good Marriott.

This has been discussed at length in the luxury hotel forum here on FT, but the single biggest distinguishing factor that makes a hotel a luxury hotel is the level of service provided. Hard product, i.e., the rooms, also have to be to a very high standard but there are many hotels meeting that requirement which do not have outstanding service and hence are not luxury hotels.

I would say that both the Ahwahnee and the Furnace Creek Inn do not even meet the hard product standard for a luxury hotel, and at each of them the service level, at its best, does not exceed that of a good Marriott.I haven't been to the Furnace Creek Inn in 30 years, so I won't comment on what it offers now.

The Ahwahnee we will simply have to disagree on, as the rooms I've been in there are spectacular. Of course, my definition of what makes a room spectacular and yours may vary widely; I look for character of place, environment overall and setting in addition to furniture and bathroom fixtures.

As for what makes good service, well, again, I guess it is what you want from it. I prefer not to be bothered too much; I've stayed at 5 star places where the staff got on my nerves with the "attentive service".

Neither the Ahwahnee or the Furnace Creek Inn are luxury hotels, although (due to location) they are often priced like luxury hotels. Haven't stayed at the others.

These two hotels are, however, the best hotels for miles and miles around.

Château du Sureau (http://www.chateaudusureau.com/), a Relais & Châteaux (http://www.relaischateaux.com/sureau) property, is located just sixteen miles from the South entrance to Yosemite National Park.

Château du Sureau (http://www.chateaudusureau.com/), a Relais & Châteaux (http://www.relaischateaux.com/sureau) property, is located just sixteen miles from the South entrance to Yosemite National Park.

Never tried it, and the restaurant is famous too. Problem is that 17 miles from the south entrance of the park means it is over an hour's drive each way to the Valley and most of the drive isn't that scenic. The Ahwahnee really does have location, location, location in its favor which is why I end up staying there regardless.

Location, location, location. We stayed at the Zion Park lodge, inside the park, even though it cost more than the hotels nearby outside the park, for the convenience (we were staying just one night). Ditto for the Paradise Lodge in Mt. Rainier Natl. Park (very basic, especially for the price, but great location and views). At the South Rim of the Grand Canyon we stayed at the Kachina Lodge. Nothing great, but great views (there are, of course, hotels in nearby Tusayan). North Rim of the GC has a lodge with basic cabins; only feasible alternatives are the Kaibab Lodge right ouside the park (reviews describe it as very basic) or, 40 miles from the rim, the Jacob Lake Inn, where we stayed once (essentially a big motel; no real charm).

In DV, I found even Furnace Creek Ranch over priced, and Stovepipe Wells, just a little less so (but also more basic), but wouldn't personally want to drive in each day from the Panamint Springs "resort" (also looked basic) or a hotel in Beatty. I have never stayed at the Ahwahnee in Yosemite, but reviews don't describe the rooms a luxurious. The dining room is great, however. If you want modern or luxurious, you don't usually want to stay inside the park, which is fine. Thee are enough high-end hotels out there. These aren't spas.

The Furnace Creek complex likely predates the establishment of the park in 1933 and is on private property as an inholding within the park. The reason gasoline is cheaper at Stove Pipe Wells is that the prices there are regulated by the National Park Service, while Furnace Creek's prices are unregulated, and are among the highest prices in the 48 states, usually at least $1/gallon more than in California's urban areas.

Incidentally, the fastest approach from Las Vegas is via Pahrump, which also has lower gas prices due to competition. My approach is always to fill up in Pahrump, even if I just rented the car in Las Vegas, and then to fill up there again on the way out. Purchases within Death Valley itself are limited to what will be needed in-between, if anything.