South America - Off to Bogota & Cartagena Next Week!

Hey everyone, I'm headed to Colombia next Friday with 2 friends. Staying in Bogota for 3 nights and then Cartagena for 6 nights.

Any recommendations of things to do/see/eat? We've booked a few restaurants already in Bogota and Cartagena based on recommendations from Anthony Bourdain and prior trips to South America.

Anyone know how the weather will be around that time?

Thanks. Looking forward to the trip!

Just curious - What do you have booked already in Bogota?

It is wet wet wet at the moment in Bogotá
bring an umbrella

We had a remarkable meal in Bogota at the Criterion Restaurant (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d775200-Reviews-Criterion-Bogota.html) where we enjoyed a 7 course, French style, tasting menu for just 99,000 COP (about $55).

I loved Cartagena. It has a lovely colonial district, an extremely pleasant place to stay, walk, and eat.

Bogota http://www.andrescarnederes.com/ - only been to the one in Chia
Cartagena http://www.clubdepesca.com/el-restaurante/ especially at night for an uber romantic dinner

Bogotá eats

Suna (http://www.restaurantes.com.co/bogota/suna) is my favourite lunchtime place at the moment. They do some inventive combos such as spinach soup and a funky pyramid of greek salad. If you go you MUST try the jugo de feijoa en leche a weird green fruit blended with milk (They might call it crema de feijoa, I don't remember)

If you are going up Cerro Monserrate then you could do much worse than go to Casa Santa Clara (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d940038-Reviews-Restaurante_Casa_Santa_Clara-Bogota.html) for some top drawer Colombian cuisine in nice surroundings with attentive staff and an awesome view of Bogotá from the gents' bathroom

Also Colombian cuisine but in more typical surroundings, Casa Vieja (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d816286-Reviews-Casa_Vieja_Restaurantes-Bogota.html)

Bogotá has lots of Peruvian restaurants at the moment. If you fancy some of that then I would go to architect designed Nazca (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d806593-Reviews-Nazca-Bogota.html) or for a lighter funkier experience I would go to 14 Inkas (http://www.hg2.com/cities/colombia/bogota/restaurants/peruvian%20restaurants/---14-inkas---bogota-colombia) in la Zona Rosa. I'd give Astrid y Gastón, Rafael, Mi Peru and El Peruviano a miss. In fact if you have ever been to Lima then I would give them all a miss

Tapas Macarena (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d1552320-Reviews-Tapas_Macarena-Bogota.html) is according to Trip Advisor Bogota´s #1 restaurant (whatever being #1 on tripadvisor means) I like it, extremely cute ambience, great service and some nice dishes.

Another of my favourites (yeah I know one doesn't come to Bogotá to eat hamburgers) is La Hamburgesería (http://lahamburgueseria.com/index.php) which has an excellent consistency of product and live music in their restaurants in Usaquén, Parque de la 93 and La 85. Oh and they don't just sell burgers, you can view their menu online.

Don't be afraid to try Crepes y Waffles (http://crepesywaffles.com/) it is a Colombian chain that exclusively employs single mothers and was developed from a project by two university students. Difficiult to choose something bad there, excellent consistency of product once again and they make by far the best ice cream in Bogotá.

Places NOT to eat:

I have never had a decent meal in Usaquén, they charge you an arm and a leg for nice wallpaper and substandard food. I have also never had a decent meal in most of the Zona Rosa for similar reasons. London Calling (http://londoncallingpub.com/) is nice pub but under no circumstances be tempted to eat their food. Avoid El Corral hamburgers if you want to escape with your intestines intact. Their food hygiene standards are a disgrace.

In case it isn't obvious, do not be tempted by saltwater fish or seafood in Bogotá, somewhere 2 miles above sea level and an 18 hour drive from the coast is not where the nicest fish is found, save it for Cartagena.

My own list of stuff to do in (http://bogdirectory.com/dostuff/index.html) Bogotá. I would avoid El Septimazo at the moment, it is full of thieves and not a very cool thing right now.

EDIT: Just updated the list above, based on my own visit last week and thegrailer's visit yesterday, the balconies at the library opposite El Museo Botero are no longer open.

Bogotá has lots of Peruvian restaurants at the moment. If you fancy some of that then I would go to architect designed Nazca (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d806593-Reviews-Nazca-Bogota.html) or for a lighter funkier experience I would go to 14 Inkas (http://www.hg2.com/cities/colombia/bogota/restaurants/peruvian%20restaurants/---14-inkas---bogota-colombia) in la Zona Rosa. I'd give Astrid y Gastón, Rafael, Mi Peru and El Peruviano a miss. In fact if you have ever been to Lima then I would give them all a miss
+1 for 14 Inkas (have not been to any of the others). Still enjoyed it though I have been to Lima.

I have never had a decent meal in Usaquén, they charge you an arm and a leg for nice wallpaper and substandard food.
...
Avoid El Corral hamburgers if you want to escape with your intestines intact. Their food hygiene standards are a disgrace.
I thought 80 Sillas was decent. Sure, you're paying for location, but prices were not too out of whack (though I was there for lunch).

Funny, I've had a dozen Corral burgers and never noticed anything funky about them. I guess I have strong stomach, or I've just been both stupid and lucky. :)

Thanks Johnny for sharing those tips on what to do in Bogota. I will be passing through with the family next week for a couple of days and these ideas will come in handy. We did the tourist options a few weeks ago and it will be nice to get a better feel of the city!

Definitely visit the Botero Museum. It's open on Mondays when most museums are closed and it's free. Museo del Oro is also worth a visit. Police museum is ok. The Iglesia de Santa Clara off Plaza de Bolivar, is quite beautiful. Walk around the Candelaria, during the day, especially the area around Universidad de Los Andes.

+1 for 14 Inkas (have not been to any of the others). Still enjoyed it though I have been to Lima.

I think if 14 Inkas were in Lima it would go bust very quickly. Nice-ish ambience but the portions aren't Peruvian sized. Not bad value though for Bogotá based on its location. Last time I went was in a big party of about 15 people and it came out to $55.000 per person incuding shouting the birthday boy. Of course in Lima it would be twice as good, twice as big and half the price.

Funny, I've had a dozen Corral burgers and never noticed anything funky about them. I guess I have strong stomach, or I've just been both stupid and lucky. :)

I think I am destined to spend my remaining days disagreeing with people about El Corral. Patriotic Colombians swear they are the best burgers in the world (despite never having left Colombia) and it is easy to lose sight of the currency conversion. If you go for a Corralisimo with bacon and cheese then you are paying a thumping $15 for a takeaway burger from an establishment where they don't wash their hands and they wipe the counters down with their sleeves.

My advice, if you want a takeaway burger in Bogotá then go to McDonalds and be guaranteed sensible international pricing and top drawer food hygiene standards. If you want a gourmet burger than go to La Hamburguesería as mentioned before, get yourself a far superior hand made patty, real onion rings, fresh hand cut fries, cutlery, a waitress and a proper restaurant.

Some more eats suggestions:

If you are near Museo del Oro, or Av Jiménez, or La Candelaria

Check out Restaurante Romano (http://www.bogotarestaurantes.com/detalle/846/restaurante-cafeteria-romana-bogota) for your breakfast. Ignore the price ranges on that link, a breakfast of hot chocolate, toast, jam, eggs "to your choosing" and freshly squeezed orange juice will set you back tops 4 bucks.

If you actually want to eat Italian then go up the hill to Abadia Colonial (http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g294074-d602928-r114853258-Abadia_Colonial-Bogota.html) where you will get none of that pretendy international cuisine nonsense because the owner Paulo is a real Italian.

If you happen to be staying in the new Hilton which is "opening" on Tuesday :rolleyes: or the Hilton Embassy suites, or you are visiting the Iglesia de la Señora de Lourdes on Carrera 13 con Calle 63 then Pastelería San Fermín - Address: Calle 63 # 11-53 Phone: 235-2594 will see you right for a typical Bogotá breakfast of hot chocolate, almojábana and cheese for $6500.

The place is nice enough (and clean) but the service is diabolical. This is what your "all day breakfast" will look like

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/300944_2165586215352_1117530681_31850989_179436346 8_n.jpg

Bogota http://www.andrescarnederes.com/ - only been to the one in Chia

The in-town location of Andres Carne de Res, Andres DC, is definitely worth a visit too. While the steaks were merely good, not great, the vibe, atmosphere and scene at the restaurant is amazing.

Also in the same neighborhood I would recommend Restaurante Club Colombia at Cll 82 #9-11. Great but unintimidating introduction to Colombian food from all over the country in a nice relaxed but upscale setting. Local semi-celebrity-chef Harry Sasson is/used to be a partner in the restaurant so there's some legit gastrocred behind the place (although note that Harry's wok & satay joint in Zona T shut down; good riddance - while the Asian-fusionesque food was decent, though massively overpriced, the service there really sucked).

Surprised no one has yet mentioned my #1 choice for fine dining in BOG: Leo Cocina y Cava. Expensive but worth it! www.leonorespinosa.com. Not sure if sister restaurant/bar Bar de Leo is still open but that one might be worth checking out too.



Also Colombian cuisine but in more typical surroundings, Casa Vieja (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294074-d816286-Reviews-Casa_Vieja_Restaurantes-Bogota.html)


I had a really nice lunch at the Casa Vieja on Ave Jimenez.



I think I am destined to spend my remaining days disagreeing with people about El Corral. Patriotic Colombians swear they are the best burgers in the world (despite never having left Colombia) and it is easy to lose sight of the currency conversion. If you go for a Corralisimo with bacon and cheese then you are paying a thumping $15 for a takeaway burger from an establishment where they don't wash their hands and they wipe the counters down with their sleeves.

Can't comment on the hygiene practices at El Corral but luckily I've never gotten sick after eating at one. Would agree though that their burgers aren't anything special.

Also in the same neighborhood I would recommend Restaurante Club Colombia at Cll 82 #9-11. Great but unintimidating introduction to Colombian food from all over the country in a nice relaxed but upscale setting.

Restaurante Club Colombia is owned by the Leo Katz empire, credit to Mr Katz, he does seem to have raised the bar a bit for Colombian dining and he also owns about half of the restaurants in Parque de la 93.

Zona K (Leo Katz's business) is also the Colombian importer for Illy Café so you are guaranteed top notch coffee in his restaurants. Zona K restaurants also have an exclusive deal with SAB Miller so you are also guaranteed god-damn awful beer.

One of those Colombian anomalies though, you can go to Katz owned restaurant Il Pomeriggio in Centro Andino and have a latte made with Illy café in divine surroundings with top notch table service for the same price as a rubbish latte in a paper cup from Juan Valdez.

I'd say you can take your pick of any Leo Katz restaurants (http://www.zonak.com.co/restaurantes/restaurantes.html) and not leave disappointed.

Local semi-celebrity-chef Harry Sasson is/used to be a partner in the restaurant so there's some legit gastrocred behind the place (although note that Harry's wok & satay joint in Zona T shut down; good riddance - while the Asian-fusionesque food was decent, though massively overpriced, the service there really sucked).

A bit of perspective required, being Colombia's top chef is a bit like being Israel's top peace negotiator, it doesn't really mean anything. Sasson's Zona T place closed down because they put the rent up. Sasson's restaurant in la Zona G simply called "Harry's" I heard last week has a monthly rent of 150 million pesos, that's US$75K. That would account for their steaks costing up to US$70. You definitely need a bit of expectation management if you are going to dine there. Personally I'd rather fly to Paris and spend 10€ on a steak which is guaranteed to be excellent.

Surprised no one has yet mentioned my #1 choice for fine dining in BOG: Leo Cocina y Cava. Expensive but worth it! www.leonorespinosa.com. Not sure if sister restaurant/bar Bar de Leo is still open but that one might be worth checking out too.

I have never been but I have only heard positive things about it. I suffer somewhat from "10 times bitten 11th time shy" I have simply grown tired of spending top dollar in Colombian restaurants and receiving lame service, lack of consistency and bad food.

The in-town location of Andres Carne de Res, Andres DC, is definitely worth a visit too. While the steaks were merely good, not great, the vibe, atmosphere and scene at the restaurant is amazing.I've been to the Andres in Chia, having only walked by the new location in Bogota (I think it's across from the Andino mall?).

I loved the place in Chia, but the in-town location looked way too much "Disney-fied". Friends of mine who went there a few months ago hated it -- too crowed, overpriced, too over-the-top-with-the-theme-restaurant-thing.

Surprised no one has yet mentioned my #1 choice for fine dining in BOG: Leo Cocina y Cava. Expensive but worth it! www.leonorespinosa.com. Not sure if sister restaurant/bar Bar de Leo is still open but that one might be worth checking out too.I thought we'd discussed this place earlier, but it might have been in a DiningBuzz thread. It's not "fine dining" in the sense of being stuffy or uptight. IIRC (and this was about 3 years ago, the only time I was there) it was a very interesting/creative menu, prices on par with what you'd expect here in NYC, but worth the cost.

Walk around the Candelaria, during the day, especially the area around Universidad de Los Andes.

So as to avoid confusing visitors with that comment, the Universidad de los Andes I don't believe has any buildings in La Candelaria

Universidad de La Salle, Universidad del Rosario, Universidad la Gran Colombia, Universidad del Externado, Universidad la Autónoma, and, Universidad Distrital Francisco José de Caldas all have buildings there though.

Probably you meant Universidad del Rosaria in the square opposite Transmilenio Museo de Oro

Universidad de los Andes campus is at the foot of the Cerro de Monserrate just past la quinta de Bolívar on Eje Ambiental. You would walk past their campus if you walked back from the Monseratte cable car.

Campus map here
http://campusinfo.uniandes.edu.co/images/stories/campus/Recursos_fisicos/plano_general_campus_2010-1.jpg

Based on this past weekend's experiences, if JC recommends it, try it. [even if the Karaoke singers are horrible - just do it]

I'd suggest you find a place to play Tejo [and once I get my hands on the address later on, I'll post it]. Tejo is free to play but there is a treinta cervezas "cover charge" - at less than 50K for the case of 30, it was a decent deal.

Also, just walk around, in daylight. The city has a ton of nooks and crannies that were fun to see.

And the visit to Monseratte was a neat thing to do.

Based on this past weekend's experiences, if JC recommends it, try it. [even if the Karaoke singers are horrible - just do it]



You liked the karaoke singers, especially the one in the white top with the big lungs.

Too late to complain now, sorry no refunds, but I have credited 5000 JohnnyPoints to your account as a goodwill gesture.

Bogota http://www.andrescarnederes.com/ - only been to the one in Chia

Highly recommend this as well - we were there in September, and there's no place in the world like it. A friend described it to me as your grandmother's attic meets chuck-e-cheese meets a bad acid trip.

He wasn't far from the truth.

Hey everyone, I'm headed to Colombia next Friday with 2 friends. Staying in Bogota for 3 nights and then Cartagena for 6 nights.

Any recommendations of things to do/see/eat? We've booked a few restaurants already in Bogota and Cartagena based on recommendations from Anthony Bourdain and prior trips to South America.

Anyone know how the weather will be around that time?

Thanks. Looking forward to the trip!

I enjoyed just leisurely strolling through la candelaria and parque de 93. The first is the older historical section, the second is a bit more posh, but still enjoyable.

For a great steakhouse experience at a fraction of the price you are used to, check out La Mina at the JW Marriott. Yes, a hotel restaurant...but truly excellent.

Also, I definitely second the recommendation to give Crepes and Waffles a try. Plenty of locations in both Bogota and Cartagena, including the BOG airport. Tasty and well-priced, it's also the type of place where you can just enjoy a casual meal along with the families in the neighborhood. I really enjoyed it.

Tejo in Bogota

Club Deportivo de Tejo
Carrera 57A # 34A 33
San Bernardo

and I think you can join the JC loyalty program and earn JohnnyPoints ;)

Based on this past weekend's experiences, if JC recommends it, try it. [even if the Karaoke singers are horrible - just do it]

I'd suggest you find a place to play Tejo [and once I get my hands on the address later on, I'll post it]. Tejo is free to play but there is a treinta cervezas "cover charge" - at less than 50K for the case of 30, it was a decent deal.

Also, just walk around, in daylight. The city has a ton of nooks and crannies that were fun to see.

And the visit to Monseratte was a neat thing to do.