Africa - recommendations for trip / safari to southern / South Africa

Last year I did a 3 day safari near Kruger (Kapama) after attending a conference in JNB. I now want to return and take my family. It will be myself, my husband, my 15-year-old daughter (who is a great traveler), and a friend of mine. So 3 adults and one sort-of kid. My daughter and friend will share a room. I really want to share the incredible experience of a safari with them. My husband is a biologist who studies animal behavior and not into cities, but does like more upscale accommodations. The plan is to go mid-June 2012.

I would love some advice on places to consider. I figure definitely a game park in SA - possibly Sabi Sands or Phinda (or both). The question is whether to do 2 different places in SA. Or whether to consider doing a game park in SA and a different kind of experience in another country in Africa, such as Kenya.

Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?

Lucky for you, you are going during one of the overall best months of the year. June is the front end of high season so you can have a really good safari in many parts of Southern Africa.

For safari, I recommend 6-10 nights of animal viewing at 2-4 safari lodges each in geographically diverse and environmentally different ecosystems. Six nights and two safaris are especially recommended if this is your first safari for your family. I know you have already been there but I will give you a broad overview of the countries in Southern Africa and then you should consider which ones appeal to you most for your safari. All will offer you a complete experience and leave you satisfied. All countries in Southern Africa will offer good animal viewing in June. Only the Kafue in Zambia will be a few weeks away from being “ready:.

There are literally hundreds of safari lodges in southern Africa that are frequented by the American market. Within southern Africa there are four major wildlife viewing countries. The first is South Africa, which is by far the most popular country to visit within southern Africa. Part of the reason is due to its accessibility. As you know Johannesburg is the gateway to all the countries of southern Africa.

In South Africa is the Sabi Sands, which is a collection of approximately 20 private game reserves. The Sabi Sands border the Kruger National Park and there is no fence separating it from the park. In addition, there are no fences between the individual properties of the Sabi Sands, therefore, the animals can move freely throughout the private reserves and the park. Kapama is a fully fenced reserve about 20-30 miles from the NW corner of the Sabi Sands.

Game viewing in the Sabi Sands is excellent year-round. It is, in my opinion, the best general big-five animal viewing area in Africa. For this reason, you may want to consider a three day safari here just to “check off” the big five. I often advice my clients to go to a property in the Sabi Sands early in the trip if it is their first time safari, because the animal viewing is so prolific you can see the big five with 90% certainty on any given day and about 95% certainty in a three night stay. With the big five “checked off”, it is easier to enjoy a safari in the more remote destinations in Botswana, Zimbabwe, or Zambia. If it is your only safari, you leave feeling fulfilled. The Sabi Sands is my strongest recommendation if you only want to have a three day safari and no other (against my advice of 6-10). Going to Kapama like you did last time is similar to this.

The difference in lodges in the Sabi Sands is somewhat a result of the focus they would put on your dining/spa/luxury experience. For example, although the food is very good at MalaMala, it is typically red meat, fowl, fish, and vegetarian offerings served from a buffet. Other lodges may offer food from a menu served on china plates. I have always found food to be adequate and I have always gained weight at any safari lodge (unfortunately), so unless you're a real foodie and/or wine connoisseur I would not let food be the driving factor. The price also is determined by if/if not the lodge has a river and the size of the traversing (game driving) area. June is the dry season so having a permanent water source is important to attract animals. None of the $$ lodges have a river and all of the $$ lodges are relatively small parcels of land. Here are some web sites.

$$ - Sabi Sands ($300+ per person per night)
• Elephant Plains
• Arathusa
• Cheetah Plains
• Nottens
• Honeyguide

$$$ - Sabi Sands ($600+)
• Tinga Narina or Legends
• Lion Sands River Lodge
• MalaMala Main Camp
• Londolozi Founders Camp

$$$$ - Sabi Sands ($900+)
• Lion Sands Ivory Lodge
• MalaMala Rattrays
• Camp Jabulani (elephant back safari NOT in the Sabi Sands)

$$$$$ - Sabi Sands ($1,200+)
• Singita Boulders (or Ebony)
• Londolozi Private Granite

Some of the other major wildlife areas are the Timbavati, Eastern Cape, Manyaleti, Madikwe, Phinda, and private concessions inside the Kruger such as Pafuri and Jocks. There are also fenced reserves like Kapama in the Kruger ecosystem. Phinda is fully fenced but it is quite unique. On my last safari there in 2009 I saw 31 cheetah and five rhino on one game drive.

If you want to do anything other than safaris while in Southern Africa the two most common side excursions are Cape Town and Victoria Falls. Cape Town is excellent in mid August to mid April. It can be a little bit cold in June and July. The later part of May or earlier part of August can be hit or miss. In Cape Town is the Cape Grace; my favorite hotel in the world. There are also many excellent boutique properties at lower price points. Another off the beaten path place is a very nice wildlife reserve approximately 4 hours North of Cape Town in the Cedarburg Mountains called Bushman's Kloof. Not many Americans go here. This would be a good place to learn a little bit about the bushman culture and also enjoy five-star cuisine and South African wines. Bushman’s Kloof is in a new category of accommodation that some call “wellness and spiritual retreat”. It may be very cold here in June.

Victoria Falls makes a good two-day side trip year-round. The water reaches peak flow rate in May and June and minimum flow rate in September and October. I've been there every time a year. I've also been to both sides of the Falls on many occasions. The Falls can be viewed from the Zimbabwe side in the town of Victoria Falls and on the Zambia side in the town of Livingston. I'm taking my wife and teenage daughters to Zimbabwe in July for their third Safari (my 28th). Victoria Falls becomes much more of an obvious choice for a side trip if you are taking a second safari or your only safari in Zambia, Zimbabwe, or Botswana. It makes a natural beginning or ending point for any of the major reserves in these three countries. I do not recommend Victoria Falls unless you are going safari in one of these three countries.

Zambia is an extremely seasonal safari destination with a short peak season from mid-June through late November. Prices are good here but you are right at the front of peak season in June 2012. The wildlife viewing is seasonal and most lodges are shutdown from late November through May. I recommend to most people taking a first-time Safari to Zambia to include one lodge in the Kafue (sometimes) like Kapinga with one Lodge in Lower Zambezi (always) like Sausage Tree and One Lodge in the South Luangwe (always) owned by Bush Camps or Robin Pope Safaris. Six days start at about $4,000 per person including charter flights.

Zimbabwe is the best value (best safari for least money) in all of Africa. There are two world-class national parks here and one massive private conservancy. All three are far away from each other and can offer a complete and balanced safari experience. The first one is Hwange National Park which is approximately a 45 minute charter flight from Victoria Falls. During the worst of Zimbabwe's political isolation most of the lodges in the Park shut down and there's now only four left that Americans go to. With the Renaissance of travel in Zimbabwe over the past 18 months everyone is reopening as fast as possible. Little Makalolo and Davison’s Camp are selling like hotcakes. This is one place I am taking my family this summer. Hwange National Park is a year-round destination but has a prolific peak season from June through November. This is also a big five safari destination. There are some other camps here that we use like Somalisa & the Hide as well. Of all these camps in the Hwange, we recommend visiting only one on any particular trip.

The second major national Park in Zimbabwe is Mana Pools National Park. There also only three lodges open in this Park that Americans visit (that I know of) and the industry is rebuilding now. Ruckomechi is the camp we use the most in this Park and is the second place I'm taking my family this summer. Ruckomechi gives the water experience to juxtapose with Little Makalolo which is an open-plains dry-land safari. Ruckomechi is on the Zambezi River and directly across the water is Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia (Sausage Tree). Here is a video my business partner took at Little Makalolo three months ago so you can get an idea what it would look like during the WORST month of the year: Hwange, Wilderness Safaris. The other two properties we use in Mana Pools are Goliath and Kanga. There is also a Singita property in Zimbabwe called Pamushana which is EXCELLENT. This property offers the same service and luxury as Singita in South Africa but it is 60% less. For Zimbabwe, six days/two lodges start at about $3,000 per person including charter flights.

Botswana has been the most popular Safari destination for the high end of the market in southern Africa for the past 10 years. It gained in popularity as Zimbabwe declined and now commands the position of most in demand and therefore highest price. Botswana is a year-round safari destination but the animal viewing is generally considered to be excellent in mid-June through October and good to very good the rest of the year. You can save about 40% if you get in-and-out by June 16. The prices go up dramatically on June 16 or July 1 at the various lodge chains.

The Okavango Delta and the Chobe national Park ecosystems are the two most popular places to include on an itinerary. In Botswana, the Chobe national Park ecosystem also includes three parcels of private land directly West of the Chobe called the Linyanti, the Kwando, and the Selinda concession. Each of these concessions has multiple private lodges on them. In Botswana we typically recommend safaris on private concessions. The national parks get extremely crowded during the dry season (Jul-Oct) and you run into the same issues as you would in any national Park in Kenya or Tanzania. These issues are uncontrolled number of vehicles at animal sightings, no night drives, and no offloading. All three of these limitations do not exist on private concessions. There are eight permanent lodge chain operators in Botswana. Several of them have enough lodges in the various ecosystems to offer a diverse itinerary. One of my personal favorite lodge chains is Wilderness Safaris. They have over 20 Safari lodges in Botswana including Mombo camp. This particular lodge has been ranked number one safari lodge in Africa for most of the last 10 years by the major US travel magazines. I've been to every Wilderness Safari Lodge in Botswana in the past 18 months along with most of the Sanctuary Lodge camps (owned by Abercrombie and Kent) and the Orient Express camps and &beyond camps. I recommend combining one camp in the Chobe ecosystem with two camps in the Okavango/Moremi ecosystem. The two camps should be different as one of them should offer water activities. Prices start at about $500 per person per night before high season.

Here are some other South Africa only options:
Sabi Sands 3 days + Cape Town 4 days + Phinda 3 days (or 4 if they have stay4pay3)
Sabi Sands 3 days + Pafuri 3 days + Mashatu 3 days
Sabi Sands 3 days + Cape Town 4 days + Mashatu 3 days

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Wow -- this is fantastic! I'll start to digest and then I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

I just noted you are from Philadelphia. Great place! I used to go there for the Army/Navy game when I was a midshipman.

If you want to meet a good safari planner face to face, I can happily endorse the services of the following “competitors” of my company based in the PHL area. I know both these companies and the people that run them and they will plan an excellent Southern Africa safari for you. Both Julian and Natasha are ex-South Africans. Planning a safari in an office face to face is the best way to go when possible.

Julian Harrison owns Premier Tours. He is the author of Fodors guide book for Southern Africa and also listed as one of the top six Africa specialists according to Conde Nast magazine. I know Julian quite well. He is a Southern Africa expert.
julianh@premiertours.com
http://www.premiertours.com/

Natasha Smith also lives in PHL area and runs the Africa department for Africa Answers. The company is based in Bellevue WA but she works in PHL. Natasha is also a friend and used to be the Africa department head at Swain Tours in PHL. She is also a Southern Africa expert.
http://www.africaanswers.com/
natasha@topsmith.com (don’t have her work email).

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Incredibly helpful! And, yes, I am in Philadelphia.

I will start seriously looking into this after my upcoming work trip to Durban, although unfortunately I am not able to add on any playtime on this trip.

SafariCraig,

I have just started safari planning and have found the options bewildering. Thank you for the overview. It is the most helpful thig I have read.

Thanks!

I have just returned from a 3 week trip to Zim, Zam, Bots and SA and I have to say Hwange NP was incredible! We stayed at The Hide, which was not mentioned by SafariCraig, but was very nice. There were several other American couples there at the time we visited. Excellent food and lovely accomodations.

We also visited Chobe NP and quite enjoyed it. We saw so many animals and really liked the fact that we could do a river cruise to see animals and a more traditional safari in the same day. As nice as Chobe was, the seclusion of Hwange made it my favorite part of the trip and I would highly recommend a visit.

It is hard not to love Zimbabwe. I am glad you had a good time. I am taking my family next month.

I only have one correction: I did mention the Hide in my post above (ha ha).

Have a great day.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

It is hard not to love Zimbabwe. I am glad you had a good time. I am taking my family next month.

I only have one correction: I did mention the Hide in my post above (ha ha).

Have a great day.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

OMG! I read your post several times I can't believe I missed it! (Too much time looking at a computer screen I suppose!) :o

We can't wait to return to Zimbabwe, it was such a wonderful experience. I would love to do Mana Pools at some point after hearing so many great reviews.

Enjoy Hwange with your family! I'm sure it will be an incredible experience!

The best way to do an African Safari is with people who have lived there and know the best places to go.
Africa is a huge and wonderful place. I do suggest South Africa for traveling cause it is stable and full of exciting opportunities. I have been to Africa multiple times since the early 90's and have had great experience and some rough one's but now days i know what to look out for and avoid and what to make sure happens.

Go with a travel company that provides you a safe trip. One that goes with your expectations and that is in your spending limit. Don't just go with a company that is cheap cause you'll be losing some great perks when you could spend a little more and get so much more.

Go to Kruger National Park, it is full of animals and things to do. Go on a ranger walk and see where the animals walk. When you go with a tour guide, he will know where the best places are and take you there. With them you will learn more about the animals/area and see more animals. They will also make sure you are safe at all time while you have an exciting adventure.

I have gone with Dark Continent Explorer for the past 9 years and they never fail to show me something new and take me on yet another great adventure.

I recommend you check out their site it's http://africanphotosafaris.org
They also have a page that has info all about Kruger it's http://africanphotosafaris.org/kruger-national-park/
If you have any Africa questions i'll be happy to answer them for you.
hope you have a wonderful time when you go!

Other places to consider, IMO, might be (given the biology interests here, not necessarily high end accommodations,) Botswana and / or Namibia with third generation Barnard family guides Penduka Safaris (www.pendukasafaris.com). Accommodations are in pleasant tented safaris with sices and cooks, and you are in the wilderness 24/7 rather than making forays to areas near inhabited locales.

If you were more independent, I'd recommend renting a vehicle in Windhoek and making bookings for government rest camps online in Namibia - Etosha is a splendid place to see wildlife, though it is Namib Desert, and quite well suited to independent travellers.

Kenya? Meh! IMO it's a loss now - unless you spend some time in the privately owned safari areas people are preserving the environment, game and working collaboratively with local tribal people. Otherwise, you will be spending a lot of money to stay in luxe places with forays twice a day to olook at game, possibly surrounded by other viewers. And the Maasai Mara, well, it has, according to many reports, lost most of its game - still quite a bit, but not at all as it used to be.

Tanzania has some much wilder places, and the Serengeti is the main area for game viewing (the Maasai Mara is the northern extension of the Serengeti, bets in July - August). Of course, there are also other splendid game parks in Tanzania - and it's much more off the tourist caravan trail than Kenya. (We were fortunate enough to travel Tanzania with Richard Estes, the mammalogist, back in the day when one could camp on the floor of Ngorongoro Crater, which we did.)

I've been researching a botswana safari and i'm a bit overwhelmed and confused.

Can anyone help me with these questions?

1) There are standard tours (gaps, gecko etc) that are mobile safaris and then you can get a mobile tour from a tour operator - which tends to be double the price - maybe i'm missing something, but what is the difference?

2) I've got quotes for mobile tours and lodge tours and I can't quite figure out the difference in the pricing. I found one website which lists the 2010 rack rates for lodges and they seemed to line up approximately with the lodge tours, but the mobile tour i have no reference point. (The mobile tour was from &Beyond if that helps)
I don't know what the price difference should be.
I don't know what the actual difference is.
I'm not sure what the difference between tent, "tent" and lodge is besides the fact the lodge is likely not made out of canvas.
The lodge safari's seem to involve flying and then safari drives(twice daily i think, but then some of the quotes don't specify that).
The mobile one I'm guessing just involves driving from campsite to campsite?
Can anyone clarify this?

Really what I would like to know is:
Which is better mobile or lodge?
We have limited vacation - we might have time for a 9 day safari if we see nothing else on our trip.
We want to see lots of animals.
We don't want to be around tons of other people.
We were thinking about going in may to botswana (i read that's mid season).
I read that the lodges tend to have safari drives as part of the package - so morning, evening(as long as you are on a private reserve) - i'm not sure if mobile safaris have the drives as well or whether you just see the animals as you are driving from campsite to campsite.
I've read than some of these lodges have "tree houses" where you can watch the animals at night - but perhaps camping you can get the same experience?
I have no idea what the difference between camping, "camping" and lodges is I can't really say preference on accomodation besides the fact that we don't camp at home. I don't mind sleeping in a tent and if that gives me a better safari experience I'm all for it. I want clean toilet facilities - but I have been in clean compost toilets and dirty hotel toilets so again i'm not sure if "camping" or lodge matters.
As for the lodge facilities - we are there to see animals, not go to the spa, go swimming or have luxury dinners. Hey if the food is good i'm all for it or if its 35oC and they have a pool I'm all for it - but I got the impression that may isn't super hot anyway so I'm not sure how much of the lodge facilities we would care about....but then again I have no idea what we would be missing.

If anyone has any advice that would be great.
I feel a bit overwhelmed with the amount of information and I'm rather confused right now.

thanks

Mobile Safaris and Lodge-based safaris are different animals. It's hard to say which one is better because that speaks to your own preferences.

Lodge-based safaris in Botswana are almost always all-inclusive. You get all meals and activities included in your rate. Activities are usually at least 2 per day - one morning activity and one evening activity. The main activity is game drives in a 4x4 vehicle. You'll have a guide and tracker/spotter in the vehicle for about 4 hours in the bush looking for animals. These vehicles are usuallly shared with other people staying at the camp. Ideally, you won't have more than 4 guests in a vehicle - everyone with a "window" seat.

Other activities, depending on the type and location of camp, may include mokoro rides, fishing, game walks, and boat excursions. Most camps I've been to tend to be as accommodating as they can for guests' desires in terms of timing of drives and length, but have to balance against other guests, logistics, and safety.

Transfers between camps depend on distance and terrain. If it's far, you fly in a small bush plane. If it's close, you can transfer via vehicle or even boat. Flights between camps are usually not included in the lodge rate.

The accommodations are variable. Tent can mean anything from a pup tent to a rather luxurious and substantial structure that may have a scrap of canvas somewhere. You'll have to review the specific camp/lodge to figure out what they offer. I like the following website for that information:

www.africatravelresource.com
www.expertafrica.com

Yes, some lodges do have "hides" or "blinds" where one can watch for animals. And, some do offer overnight sleepouts at these blinds. I don't know which lodges in Botswana offer these, but I know of several in Zambia and South Africa that do. Whether you can get the same experience on a mobile safari depends on the campsite and how far in the wilderness you are.

Mobile safaris are generally self-contained trips where you travel from campsite to campsite, doing game drives inbetween. The classic example is that you get picked up by your mobile safari operator who has at least 2 vehicles - one for you and the other guests, and a large truck to hold all of the camping and cooking supplies. The truck races ahead to that day's campground and gets set up while you go off game driving in the other vehicle with your guide. Usually, you do game drives enroute between campsites, though, depending on your route, you may have days where you're simply transferring and not seeing much. Once you've completed your days game drives, you arrive at camp to find everything set up, and someone doing the cooking for you.

Mobile safaris can vary quite a bit depending on a number of things: the relative luxuriousness of accommodations - from simple tents to rather large and luxurious tents; private safari with just you and your companions vs. shared safari where you're traveling with others who have bought a seat on the truck; full service safari where you don't have to lift a finger to "participatory" safaris where you have to set up your own tent and do some camp chores. Quality of the guides, route, season, and campsites - all of these affect the price of the safari.

Mobile safaris are also usually in national parks while many lodges are in private reserves. National parks are great and offer excellent game viewing, but you share them with other mobile safari operators and self-drive vacationers. Also, you're subject to national park rules, so no off-road driving and probably no night drives.

Private reserves allow the lodges to go off road, drive at night, and the concessions are usually only for that lodge or a couple of other lodges with traversing rights.

Will you see lots of animals? That's so entirely variable that you won't get reliable answer. It depends on the area, the season, the rains, and how the animals happen to be feeling on a given day. Places with reliably great game density also happen to be the most expensive.


Given your limited time, and I'd recommend a lodge-based safari, unless you want to spend the 9 days on safari. If you're limited by budget, then perhaps a short mobile safari is good enough. With lodges, you get exclusiveness, comfort, and potentially greater chance at good game density, but at a price. Most people do mobile safaris because they're cheaper and because they enjoy the camping experience. And, I generally agree - it's not a real safari unless you spend some time under canvas.

thanks escog
that was a very useful post!

I am so appreciative of the great information here; thanks for your great contributions, Craig, escog, Russ...

What is the CW on the best place these days to encounter African Hunting / Spotted Dogs (Lycaon pictus)?

What is the CW on the best place these days to encounter African Hunting / Spotted Dogs (Lycaon pictus)?Madikwe in South Africa.

Kruger has a good population, but you still need a good deal of luck to encounter them.

Kwando in Botswana is well-known for dog sightings, but like everywhere else dogs move over large areas, and numbers fluctuate. Wild Dogs don't get along well with other large predators, so if the latter increase in number the dog population may well decline due to mortality or emigration.

To be guaranteed sightings you need to go during the austral winter, and find a lodge with an active den within its traversing area.

Johan

WOW, got to love FT...aways a source of help and helping.

Wife and I 66, average to lesser condition (I limp a bit, both do eye treatments a couple times a day) have done lots of travel, but have not made it to Africa. Shots, wars, small planes, unknown, etc. That said, we moved to Escondido (San Diego, CA) area to be near the Wild Animal Park (ANA Safari Park). Guess we need to do it or forget it for Africa...so

Shots???? Yellow fever
Wars...are the places discussed above all reasonable safe? Seems okay We have been to Haiti and wife to Myanmar.
Small planes (luggage)..wife hates them...how small? # passengers
unknown-what other "special preps"? We have passports...visas?

We will likely need to pick a tour company to put it together for us. We have done a few canned programs trips and that is fine with us. Would like to do the falls, and perhaps 3-4 days at a comfortable camp (hygiene is more important that fancy food). We woulld also like to get to Madaascar to see the Lemurs. With a bit of city, say 9-22 days home to home. Doesn't matter the month, but would love not to spend all day batting at flies! Do people wear the head nets? Probably not. Anyone familar with such a tour?

Recommended package companies A&K, Tauk?

I've travelled all over the world, but never to sub-Saharan Africa. My wife would like to take the family on a safari. But we're value-oriented travellers (we typically spent a couple thousand "on the ground" on a 10-day family trip), so big-ticket itineraries won't cut it.

Can I assume that it's possible to go on a safari without it costing a fortune? If so, is there universal agreement on the best place in Africa to see the most animals, enjoy the best scenery, have the best "camp" experience -- and do this at a good price in relative safety? Or are there trade-offs? And how much time do I need, and is there "a season" that it's best to plan such a trip?

I assume I need to deal direct with folks in Africa and cut-out any foreign middlemen to get the best price.

I'm thinking of using Delta miles for the trip, so I'm assuming (hoping?) I can get anywhere in Africa.

Thanks for the advice!

I would look at the rest camps (http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/camps/) inside Kruger National Park. Fly into Joburg (or connect through to MQP) then get a car and drive into the park. The camps have various levels of accommodation, allow self catering, and you'll have access to organized group safari tours or can do self-touring in your car all through the (huge) park.

If time allows, you could also drive out to the coast and spend a day or two at Addo Elephant NP (http://www.sanparks.org/parks/addo/) - same idea, self-touring. Load up on interpretive/guide books and off you go. This is all quite easily doable online.

Depending on time of year, there are undoubtedly numerous other destinations in southern Africa that could work for you.

I would look at the rest camps (http://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/camps/) inside Kruger National Park. Fly into Joburg (or connect through to MQP) then get a car and drive into the park. The camps have various levels of accommodation, allow self catering, and you'll have access to organized group safari tours or can do self-touring in your car all through the (huge) park.

If time allows, you could also drive out to the coast and spend a day or two at Addo Elephant NP (http://www.sanparks.org/parks/addo/) - same idea, self-touring. Load up on interpretive/guide books and off you go. This is all quite easily doable online.

Depending on time of year, there are undoubtedly numerous other destinations in southern Africa that could work for you.

Ha! Do it yourself safari! I love it. To keep expenses reasonable, we often tour by ourselves in developing countries, so this would not intimidate us.

I remember people telling us that there were better countries than South Africa to see wildlife in Africa. True? And, oddly, using Skymiles, I need 25% more miles to get to South Africa than any other African country!

Ha! Do it yourself safari! I love it. To keep expenses reasonable, we often tour by ourselves in developing countries, so this would not intimidate us.

I remember people telling us that there were better countries than South Africa to see wildlife in Africa. True? And, oddly, using Skymiles, I need 25% more miles to get to South Africa than any other African country!

Well, your question is quite broad and we don't know much about your family composition, traveling styles, budget, etc. Generally, we prefer SA because the infrastructure (roads, hotels, car rentals, etc. etc.) is very well developed, so that you don't waste time sweating the details. Get in the car and drive on decent roads (for the most part, including a lot of freeway and limited-access highways) quickly to your destination. See the animals, see how the people live, see (with minimal effort) some stunning scenery and diversity - tropical coast, savannah, high mountains (http://gardyloo.us/africa11J%20020a.JPG) and canyons (http://gardyloo.us/africa10J%20027a.JPG) - and do it all in a manner that conserves time as well as money. Will you have the experience of trekking with a private guide across the plains? Or having every meal a gourmet affair at Londolozi? Not unless you plan to knock over a bank before traveling. But the benefit:cost ratio of this approach is very high, and it will allow you to have a good enough overview of what's there that you'll have a better idea of how to plan your next visit.

Which you will be doing immediately.

I too have have found the information in this forum helpful. In looking at a trip for next year, my best options to be away from work for 2+ weeks are in May and November (maybe with a little overlap into Dec). If I am most interested in being out in the field, not in the cities or on the coast, and visiting at least Botswana, is one of the months much better than the other?

Thanks.

TRRed,

May and November are both shoulder seasons for Botswana and, unless discounts appear, all the lodge chains in Botswana have the same rates for May and November of next year. I have been to Botswana many times, in all seasons, and also visited every ecosystem. I think November has a slight edge. The last few years the floods have been at historic levels making many areas difficult for game viewing if you don’t select camps carefully. May is historically the highest flood time of the year. May is also colder and the second coldest month of the year (June is usually coldest). In the north you can expect temps near freezing if a front comes through in the latter half of the month.

November is historically the first month of the rainy season but also the time of year when the height of the Delta is nearing its annual low. Even if the rain has started a bit, the animals will be much more concentrated around the receded permanent water and the road networks will be more accessible. You could also witness significant antelope birthing if you delay your trip to the later part of the month. This phenomenon usually occurs after the green grass shoot up. You will definitely enjoy less crowding in November in the latter half of the month. Usually, the first week of November is heavily booked as peak season rates end on October 31. The biggest drawback for November is that it will be hotter. You can expect 90F during the day and always comfortable at night and in the shade.

To support my argument above, before 2009 (when the recession started) most lodges kept high season rates through November 30 but had shoulder rates in June. This shows that is was generally more popular.

Given the time you have to travel you may want to consider adding three nights in the Sabi Sands private game reserves area adjacent to the Kruger National Park in South Africa before going to Botswana. In both seasons, this three day trip will ensure you have a much higher probability of seeing the big five. It is highly unlikely you will see rhino in Botswana which is why I suggest this.

In May and November you don’t have too many other choices for a big five safari in Southern Africa. Many lodges in Zambia are only open June-October with some extending into May and November and some being year round. Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe and Kafue in Zambia will be shut down during your time period. Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe will be open and perhaps you could consider Hwange with Botswana instead of the Sabi Sands. I had a fantastic safari in the Hwange in July this year and May of last year.

Hope this helps. Here is one plan.

Day 1 Denver-IAD-JNB (United and SAA). SAA is Star Alliance.
Day 2 Arrive JNB. Overnight.
Day 3 Fly JNB-MQP on SAA. 2.5 hour road transfer to MalaMala Main Camp or Lion Sands River Lodge.
Day 4,5 Safari (perhaps stay extra day at Lion Sands to get stay4pay3).
Day 6 Road transfer to Perry’s Bridge Hollow. Overnight.
Day 7 Fly MQP-LVI (Livingstone) on SA Airlink. Overnight at Livingstone (Zambia side of Vic Falls) at River Club.
Day 8-14 (7 nights). Spend 2,2, & 3 nights at three different lodges. Here are some choices among a few of the eight chains that will make a good circuit in November.
-Wilderness Safaris: Savuti, Chitabe, Little Vumbura
-Kwando: Lagoon, Lebala, Kwara
-Sanctuary: Chobe Chilwero, Stanleys + Selinda (owned by Great Plains, Wilderness markets/sells).
-Desert & Delta: Savute Safari Lodge, Camp Okavango, Camp Moremi.
Day 15 Fly Maun/MUB-JNB on Air Botswana. Then fly JNB-IAD-DEN or JNB-JFK-DEN on SAA/UA.

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Thanks much, Craig. I'll try to digest later.

For flights, I am leaning toward DEN-FRA-JNB on LH or (LAS, etc.)-LHR-JNB on VS, depending on what I can find award seats available on; I will look into an open jaw in and out of JNB to smaller airports on SAA. FRA-JNB on LH is currently serviced by an A380.

And for the last several years, AFAIK, there has not been a direct *A flight between JFK and DEN. With EWR coming into the family as a hub, I am guessing that the possibility of a JFK-DEN non-stop is declining. There have been a number of discounted C flights from JFK to Europe that I would have jumped on if I could have found a good connecting flight DEN-JFK. The one time I tried it with a connection in IAD, the connecting flight was late leaving IAD and I missed the international flight.

TRRed

Good catch on the JFK-DEN. I suppose you are correct the NY Area would have been a better option! I am sure there is pretty good lift from IAD-DEN. I know a lot more about safaris than I do about flights (fortuantely) :).

You better check the layover in Frankfurt. I think it can be brutal.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

What a great thread full of detail and informative - thank you to all who have responded. I came looking for some information to help me plan a trip to South Africa in 2012, and have found this so helpful. I'm glad to hear that Hwange is coming back so to speak. My parents had done a safari there in the 70's when Rhodesia was a very different place to Zimbabwe today, and they had suggested I go there, but I haven't found many recommendations of it until now. I'll keep searching and reading, then perhaps return with some questions, but for now thanks again.

Zig - thanks for acknowledging my work and other’s work on this thread. That’s nice.

Zimbabwe is indeed back. My post on Zimbabwe above was from June 1. I did end up going there (again) in July this summer with my wife and kids. The game viewing at Ruckomechi in Mana Pools was the third best I have ever had in Southern Africa and I have been on 29 safaris. The only place to top Mana Pools in terms of total animals seen on any given day (in my experience) are MalaMala in South Africa and Mombo or Chief’s Camp on Chief’s Island in Botswana. Little Makalolo in Hwange has some of the best guides I have ever experiences in massive herds of buffalo and elephant plus plenty of other game.

I can’t say enough about Zimbabwe. Check out the reviews on Ruckomechi and Little Makalolo and GO THERE July-October. Prices already went up 10% for 2012 vs 2011 and the advanced bookings rates are MUCH higher for 2012 versus this same time last year. If you want something different, there is also Vundu, Goliath, and Mana Pools Safari Company in Mana Pools. All three are on the historic flood plains. In Hwange there is Somalisa and the Hide. I have been to all these places.

Have fun and I strongly endorse Zimbabwe. Of course, there are many wonderful places in South Africa, Botswana, and Zambia as well!

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Thanks again SafariCraig, I will certainly check out the other suggestions you have made.

Last January I was climbing Mt. Meru in Tanzania and got into some bad issues with my foot. I consequently bailed out of a climb on Kilimanjaro. Instead of refunding the money I was switched to a safari south of Arusha. The Serengetti was great. The Nongoro (sp?) crater was over rated. I did see one rhino from a distance but everyone was chasing each other to see it. The plains of the Serengetti were much better.

Accommodation was excellent in the camps and villages - well built buildings, nice beds, mossie nets, hot water (solar) for a shower in the evening but not in the morning...

Well, your question is quite broad and we don't know much about your family composition, traveling styles, budget, etc. Generally, we prefer SA because the infrastructure (roads, hotels, car rentals, etc. etc.) is very well developed, so that you don't waste time sweating the details. Get in the car and drive on decent roads (for the most part, including a lot of freeway and limited-access highways) quickly to your destination. See the animals, see how the people live, see (with minimal effort) some stunning scenery and diversity - tropical coast, savannah, high mountains (http://gardyloo.us/africa11J%20020a.JPG) and canyons (http://gardyloo.us/africa10J%20027a.JPG) - and do it all in a manner that conserves time as well as money. Will you have the experience of trekking with a private guide across the plains? Or having every meal a gourmet affair at Londolozi? Not unless you plan to knock over a bank before traveling. But the benefit:cost ratio of this approach is very high, and it will allow you to have a good enough overview of what's there that you'll have a better idea of how to plan your next visit.

Which you will be doing immediately.

you suggested kruger-but doesnt that have malarial issues for little kids?

In terms of value would suggest Kenya/Tanzania are worth investigating.

Well Having been to Kruger at least once a year for the past 5-6 years and renting a vehicle driving my self I would recommend it to everyone.
Go to this web site and check it out. http://www.sanparks.org/parks/

Also having lived in South Sudan, Zambia where we drove to game parks
the only way to go is to fly into JNB and rent. It depends but to rent a vehicle that is high such as a 4 door pickup or if a family of 5 or more rent a Super 10 type. I will be taking my 7 year old grandson and family over in June for a 7day Kruger trip. Will stay in Sukkuza and Olifants camps. I rent from Thrifty Car rental. Also book the lodging on the sanparks web site. It is easy.

:D^

you suggested kruger-but doesnt that have malarial issues for little kids?

it depends what time of the year you are there. I have not taken anything for Malaria in years. I have been there in June,July ,November and March.

it depends what time of the year you are there. I have not taken anything for Malaria in years. I have been there in June,July ,November and March.

my smallest is 4 so was worried about it-it would be for august

Prices already went up 10% for 2012 vs 2011 and the advanced bookings rates are MUCH higher for 2012 versus this same time last year.Interesting!

I keep hearing left and right that bookings (at least in SA) are down by some 20-30%, and that lodges and operators are stuggling. Judging by the number of e-mails I get with special offers (even for the coming Christmas vacation period), there must be some truth in this. A couple of lodges have also closed recently.

Given the state of the US and Euro economies, not to mention the politicians in charge who seem hell-bent on making matters worse, the prospects for the travel industry can hardly be rosy.

Johan

the only way to go is to fly into JNB and rent.Or fly to PHW, HDS, MQP (depending on where in Kruger you are going) and pick up your car there. That's 500+ km less driving.

my smallest is 4 so was worried about it-it would be for augustAugust? Nothing whatsoever to worry about. I'm just back from a couple of weeks in norhtern Kruger. Not a mosquito to been seen anywhere. The provincial health authorities also came along and sprayed all the rooms with DDT. That helps.

Johan

I would also like to recognize the work of Safari Craig, Johan and others here. SC and Johan were both very helpful when we planned a 2003 Namibia excursion and SA safari to Ulusaba that was memorable beyond words. Seeing mating leopards, lions and cheetahs in the same drive, and being literally stuck in the middle of a slow-moving elephant herd in the Sand River basin was but just a taste of what we experienced there. Still remember it like yesterday.

We're returning this March to SA to take our two kids, 10 & 11, on their first safari. Researched Bots heavily, but just couldn't justify the high cost. Never once considered Zimbabwe since we're a same-sex parent family and the political isolation and the research we had done/feedback received all pointed the opposite direction of there. We are staying in Zambia upriver from Livingstone for 2-3 days, then Kapama for 5 days. May even avoid going to the Zim side of Vic Falls as we've heard very negative things about the border crossing.

That said, I did not realize Kapama was fenced. Good? Bad? Neither? Would like your opinions, because a wide variety of several sources said it would be fantastic. Any reason why they chose to fence it in?

For our kids, we're planning some activities in both locations that we think will enhance their experiences, but any thoughts the experts have here, are incredibly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your insights!

That said, I did not realize Kapama was fenced. Good? Bad? Neither? Would like your opinions, because a wide variety of several sources said it would be fantastic. Any reason why they chose to fence it in?Which of the Kapama Lodges are you staying at?

It is a bit confusing, but Kamapa consists of two discrete sections. The smaller one (I can never remember whether it si 2,500 or 3,500 ha in size. I think the former) is an almost square block that juts into the Thornybush reserve from the west. Guernsey Road is the western boundary. Thornybush and Kapama have had some issues over the years (you don't want to know), but they have now been talking about dropping the fences for a number of years. Simple, you would think, but it is anything but. Once again, I shall spare you the details. As they say in South Africa, bush politics are worse than George Bush politics.

The big rectangular Kapama block is bordered by Argyle Road on the north (that's the road that runs past HDS airport to the Timbavati, the Klaserie and Umbabat); the R40 (Klaserie-Hoedspruit-Mica-Phalaborwa) road on the west; Guernsey Road and the infamous lion-breeder Albert Mostert on the east; and a bunch of sheep and citrus farms on the south. Fencing is the only option. Kapama, by the way, has the fanciest game fence in all of southern Africa. Must have cost a fortune. For years there has been talk of deproclaiming Guernsey Road, thus allowing for fences to be dropped, but I will believe it when I see it. Not as long as there are commercial farms around.

The big block is just about big enough (10,000 ha or so) to function as a game reserve in its own right. An enormous amount of money must have been pumped into the development of the reserve, and it was not only spent on fences. The road network is particularly well designed and laid-out, etc. Nevertheless, the proximity to the R40 and the parallel railroad is a disadvantage, you can hear traffic almost all over the reserve, especially on calm nights. There are also some very unsightly powerlines.

I shall comment on the various lodge options once I know where you are staying.

Johan

Which of the Kapama Lodges are you staying at?


Kapama Karula. I know there is a secondary road that runs between it and the Main Lodge, but the road sits closer to the main lodge.

Thanks for elaborating on the fence issue. In your opinion, does this diminish the quality of game drives and are the game 'owned' then by Kapama since, ostensibly, they aren't allowed to roam? For the other reserves, such as Thornybush or Timbavati, are those fenced in connection to/with Sabi Sands and Kruger? I guess I like the idea of free-flowing game - seems more natural, but would appreciate your thoughts as to whether or not the game drives are 'canned', so to speak. Or, am I making too much out of this?

Thanks again, Johan.

Here are the places that I have personally seen Wild Dog in the last 24 months AND multiple clients have seen Wild Dog. There is one exception:

1. Mana Pools National Park Zimbabwei. I saw a pack of 22 in July 2011 at Ruckomechi.
2. Linyanti private concessions (Wilderness Safaris) Botswana. I saw 13 wild dogs hunting in May 2010 while I was a visitor at Duma Tau. Many clients have seen them here in the past two years while staying on this concession at Duma Tau, Savuti, or Kings Pool.
3. This is hearsay as I have only been a day visitor to this camp but wild dog sigtings have been great recently at the Kwando concession at Lagoon and Lebala.
4. I saw a pack of 11 wild dogs in the Madikwe private game reserve in South Africa in July 2011. Everyone I have sent here seems to see them.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond

OK, I'm thinking Kruger self-drive gets me the most bang for my buck. And I'm relieved that, despite the current worldwide gold speculation, it doesn't look like the South African Rand is particularly expensive. Am I correct in my assumption that South Africa is, to an American, a rather affordable destination?

I'm thinking perhaps of going in June. That's a good month both for wildlife sighting and low malaria risk, right?

Since this will be our first trip to Sub-Saharan Africa, I think we'll want to do 2 weeks (lavish by American vacation standards :)). It looks like there's enough to do in Kruger for 2 weeks. But, as a family vacation, should I spend all my time there, or should I spend a few days elsewhere? I've always been told the Cape Town area is great: should I squeeze it in, or just focus on Kruger (if we like S. Africa, I'm sure we'll go back sometime).

Car rental doesn't look terribly expensive: are there drop off charges if you don't return to the same airport?

The first order of business will be securing the frequent flyer tickets: and I need to choose wisely because high change fees will pretty much lock me into the intinerary. For Kruger, it looks like Nelspruit is the closest airport and, if I redeem with Star, I could fly there. Any reason to open jaw, or is Nelspruit as close as I'll get to any side of the park?

Thanks for the help!

The weather in Cape Town can be a bit variable at that time of year but a few days in the city and the wine country should still be nice.

I don't know if your comment about returning the rental car to a different office was referring to driving from Kruger to Cape Town but it's a long way - maybe 18 hours with minimal stopping.

despite the current worldwide gold speculation, it doesn't look like the South African Rand is particularly expensive.It isn't. Despite (or thanks to) the gold speculation, you currently get just over R8 to the dollar. Back in January a dollar bought you R6.90

Am I correct in my assumption that South Africa is, to an American, a rather affordable destination?Yes, you are.

I'm thinking perhaps of going in June. That's a good month both for wildlife sighting and low malaria risk, right?Indeed, correct on both counts.

It looks like there's enough to do in Kruger for 2 weeks. But, as a family vacation, should I spend all my time there,Given the size of Kruger, 2 weeks is hardly enough to see it all. On the other hand, only really committed game viewers spend 14 days at a stretch driving around looking for animals and birds. Especially kids might get pretty bored by the end of the first week, or earlier. But then again, your children might be the exception.

Car rental doesn't look terribly expensiveNo, not expensive at all. If your budget allows for it, go for a "high" vehicle which affords you better views when game viewing. You will usually end up with something like a Nissan 2 x 4, which gives you plenty of room for kids to move around in as well. The group code varies between companies, if you rent from e.g. Hertz you need a Group E, which should come with automatic transmission and cruise control. I normally don't care for either, but these features are very useful when cruising along Krugers roads.

are there drop off charges if you don't return to the same airport?There are. It's a while since I did this last, but the charges are not onerous.

For Kruger, it looks like Nelspruit is the closest airportNo, on the contrary, it is the farthest airport. Your choice should ideally be determined by where in Kruger you will book your first night's accommodation. Airport choices are as follows:

Phalaborwa (PHW), literally on the Kruger boundary fence, 5 minute drive to Phalaborwa gate. Best choice if you are staying at Olifants, Letaba, or anywhere north thereof.

Hoedspruit Eastgate (HDS). Closest gate is Orpen, 45 minutes (if you drive like me), about 1h15 minutes (if you drive like a sensible person would). Best for Orpen, Maroela, Tamboti, Satara, Roodewal and Talamati camps.

Nelspruit/Kruger Mpumlanga International (MQP). Actually not in Nelspruit at all, but near Primkop. Built there because it was the only place flat enough for a long runway (The real Nelspruit airport, NLP, lies on the top of a hill and has a 900 m runway ending in a precipice. Used to be a lot of fun, but has no commercial flights anymore). MQP, or KMI, as it is commonly called, is closest to Numbi/Kruger/Phabeni/Malelane/Crocodile Bridge gates (driving time > 1 hr), and thus to all the camps from Skukuza southwards: Skukuza itself, Lower Sabie, Berg & Dal, Byamiti, Pretorius Kop and Malelane.

Then there is the airport in the park itself, Skukuza (SZK), which SANParks inadvisedly closed to scheduled flights some years ago. You can still fly in, but only on the so-called "scheduled charters" which Federal Air offers from JNB. However, you can only buy a ticket if you have bookings at one of the private lodges served by SZK.

If you need any advice on planning your route and accommodation in Kruger, just ask.

Johan

wild dog sigtings have been great recently at the Kwando concession at Lagoon and Lebala. On my only visit to Kwando I saw plenty, but then I stayed a week at each camp.

wild dogs in the Madikwe private game reserve in South Africa Everyone I have sent here seems to see them.There should be two packs in Madikwe, but they can at times be tricky to see. They sometimes use the fence when hunting, which may take them to the southern and western sections of the reserve which are rarely visited on game drives. They also like the area around Tshwene-Tshwene. A big block in the middle of the park with few roads, low game densities and, most importantly, few large predators.

Wild dogs can be tricky because they range over wide areas (except when denning in mid-winter) and, like cheetahs, try to avoid areas with large concentrations of lion, leopard, and hyaena. If the lions increase in number, or a powerful male coalition establishes itself in the traversing area of a lodge which has a reputation for excellent wild dog sightings, they may suddenly find that dogs are few and far between. This happened to Mombo some years ago.

Madikwe is a special case because it is completely fenced. Although its lion population is far too large, the dogs there cannot really run away.

Johan

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In your opinion, does this diminish the quality of game drives and are the game 'owned' then by Kapama since, ostensibly, they aren't allowed to roam?Well, it is a question of knowing what you've got. Leopards are tricky to hold on to, but most other species will remain within the fenced area. This does make it easier to see desirable species, which can also be overstocked, i.e. at population levels larger than the area's carrying capacity. The main downside is that surprises are far and few between compared to a more natural area. Once you have seen the local lion pride, you are not likely to suddenly come upon some nomadic males, for example. So the game is definitely canned, but the game drives do not necessarily feel all that canned. At least not more than at the really top Sabi-Sand lodges where they keep such a good tab on desirable animals that game drives become choreographed events where you drive from one sighting to the other.

On the positive side, Kapama guarantees exclusivity, as they do not share their traversing with other lodges.

Kapama's own lodges now have me a bit confused. I've stayed at Buffalo Camp, which is really nice as long as you avoid the chalet in the parking lot, but back then it was the only lodge in the whole big block, except for Lion's Den. There was also the Rhino Inn restaurant, where they used to bus in big groups for dinner, followed by a night drive. This has apperently been replaced by River Lodge, which has almost 200 beds. That's scary.

I know that Kapama Karula is on the Klaserie River, with Guernsey Road running parallel to and east of the river.

For the other reserves, such as Thornybush or Timbavati, are those fenced in connection to/with Sabi Sands and Kruger?Thornybush is entirely fenced, even though it borders the Timbavati to the east. The total area is some 16,000 hectares, which is big enough for most animal populations to behave quite naturally. They intentionally have too few elephants (which makes the reserve botanically much more interesting), and far too many rhinos. The lion population has to be closely managed, which is rather tricky. At times they have too few, at other times too many. The Timbavati is open to Kruger, as is Sabi-Sands.


I guess I like the idea of free-flowing game - eems more natural, but would appreciate your thoughts as to whether or not the game drives are 'canned', so to speak. Or, am I making too much out of this?.I would say that the average run-of-the-mill safari guests who are mainly interested in seeing the larger animals, i.e. the big & hairy and fangs & claws, won't really notice the difference. They will be pleased and satisfied if they are shown the animals they always wanted to see nice and close and within reasonable time. The more discerning game viewer should definitely go for an area as natural as possible, which means that purists will need to look elsewhere than South Africa. All game reserves and national parks are intesively managed, even large ones like Kruger. Controlled burning, tar roads, cutlines, powerlines, firebreaks, dams, pumped waterholes, you name it.

Johan

4. I saw a pack of 11 wild dogs in the Madikwe private game reserve in South Africa in July 2011. Everyone I have sent here seems to see them.I've been to Madikwe twice and have not seen them. "You should have been here yesterday," is the stock answer.

good one gardyloo. that seems to be the answer i get often on cheetahs.

the wild dog we saw at madikwe this summer were all on the fenceline.

craig beal - owner - travel beyond

Thanks for the tips, guys. Johan, I've sent you a PM.

EDIT: As Johan knows from the PMs, I've purchased my family's tickets to Jo'burg and have begun planning my Kruger safari! We're also trying to figure out what else we should see in eastern South Africa. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, is there one guidebook for South Africa that stands out as "the best" for me to read?

Also, I see another poster started a very similar thread immediately after I started this one. Perhaps the moderators would like to consolidate?

I'm planning a self-drive safari March 29-April 4. It's my first time in Africa. Which one is better for game viewing and smaller crowds?

Fantastic wild dog information; thanks!

Also, for those who are experienced travellers, a self-guided drive tour to Etosha in Namibia, with arrangements made at the different Namibia Wildlife Resorts within the park and numerous close-by private lodges, can be quite a good wildlife viewing experience. And now, there is even a new Dolomite Lodge in the previously closed western side (Dolomietpunt waterhole), possibly open now.

(Even at the lodge - at Okaukuejo some years ago, we saw the older lioness expelled from her pride who took up residence under a snag by the waterhole; a German guy who ignored the "never sleep outdoors" fell asleep viewing at the waterhole "wall" and she took him.)

We definitely have enjoyed Namibia and its offerings, and there's lots to see plus amazing wildlife (and it's great to travel beyond Etosha).

I've been studying Fodor's "The Complete African Safari Planner" and it's been quite helpful so far. It lists March and April as shoulder seasons for Krueger and April as high season for Etosha, and I'm just not sure which one would be better during this particular time.

Thanks for the tips, guys. Johan, I've sent you a PM.


BTW, is there one guidebook for South Africa that stands out as "the best" for me to read?

I'm planning a self-drive safari March 29-April 4. It's my first time in Africa. Which one is better for game viewing and smaller crowds?

It lists March and April as shoulder seasons for Krueger and April as high season for Etosha, and I'm just not sure which one would be better during this particular time.Etosha is definitely a dry season destination, and at its best just before the summer rains start, i.e. October. Etosha and Kruger are about the same size, but the former has far fewer camps and a far more limited road network. Camps are roads are focused on waterholes, and the areas where game move in summer are largely inacessible. You can drive through Etosha in summer without seeing a single elephant.

March/April is the end of the rainy season, and assuming precipitation has been at least average (last summer was very wet), there should be plenty of water around and the game well spread out.

Etosha attracts only a fraction of the number of visitors that Kruger does, but since the roads are few and vehicles tend to congragate at waterholes it can still feel quite busy.

Kruger has the same dry and wet seasons as Etosha, but far higher game numbers, more species of game, and an extensive road network. That makes it easier to find and see animals in the rainy season.

Johan

Johan, thanks for the detailed response. I think Kruger makes more sense. Is there any other park in SA that would dominate Kruger at that time, for a self-drive?

We will be in CapeTown in January for 4 days, and would like an idea for a wildlife day trip with overnight. We have been doing a lot of reading, and everyone suggests something different. We would like to self tour. Thanks for any suggestions.

Is there any other park in SA that would dominate Kruger at that time, for a self-drive?No, there is not. Kruger is in a class of its own by virtue of its size. The only other park that comes anywhere close is Addo. Most other National Parks are self-drive destinations, but much smaller and cater more to special interests, as many of them conserve specific habitats or landscapes. In addition to the National Parks you have those in KwaZulu-Natal, which are run by the provincial conservation authority, for historical reasons. The larger ones that cater for self-drive visitors are Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, Mkuze and Ithala, but these are all tiny compared to Kruger.

Johan

Great. Thanks again! Last questions - I have about 2 weeks in SA, and have devoted a week to safari (the rest is 5 days in CPT and 2 in Victoria Falls). Should I then devote all 7 days to Kruger, or 4 days in Kruger and 2 in Hluhluwe-Umfolozi plus a day for travel between the two (and quickly seeing Durban)? Is my overall trip well-balanced?

No, there is not. Kruger is in a class of its own by virtue of its size. The only other park that comes anywhere close is Addo. Most other National Parks are self-drive destinations, but much smaller and cater more to special interests, as many of them conserve specific habitats or landscapes. In addition to the National Parks you have those in KwaZulu-Natal, which are run by the provincial conservation authority, for historical reasons. The larger ones that cater for self-drive visitors are Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, Mkuze and Ithala, but these are all tiny compared to Kruger.

Johan

Should I then devote all 7 days to Kruger, or 4 days in Kruger and 2 in Hluhluwe-Umfolozi plus a day for travel between the two (and quickly seeing Durban)?I don't think Hluhluwe-Umfolozi is sufficiently different from Kruger to warrant a detour, so unless you are going to KwaZulu-Natal anyway, the answer is no. As for Durban, I'm not sure what there is to see. Rather concentrate on Kruger. Seven days will give you time to see quite a bit of Kruger's diversity (it really is big), with only four days you would either be racing around, or concentrating on a small area.

Johan

We too are planning first south african experience and really value all the comments and advice on this thread. There are so many choices.

Our party is four experienced traveler adults. One couple has done an a/k kenya safari 10 or so years and were happy with the experience. Other couple doesnt need/want that level of accomodation. We are locked into dates at this point since we have secured air and we only have 10 days.

Travel is early Dec 2012. Flights are into and out of JNB. Major interests are to see Victoria Falls, historical/political sights of SA, CPT with safari experience as a secondary but 'like to include' experience. I read the thread about chobe vs kruger if we only have a couple of days, but the thread is several years old so Im looking for more up to date information.

We arrive early in the am in JNB and leave 10 days later about 10pm.

Questions:
Is it best to go directly to Vic Falls?
How many night days do we need there? OR
start in CPT and end up in Vic Falls eight or nine days later and fly directly to JNB on last day?
The wildlife reserve north of CPT sounded a little different experience as well? thoughts or suggestions?
Safari Craig mentioned face to face planning. Do you think that really makes a difference?


Thanks for all your advice as we plan this adventure.

The thing about the Western Cape game reserves is that they are located in an area where a lot of the iconic or quintessentially African species do not naturally occur, and never did occur. For commercial reasons these reserves nevertheless stock species such as giraffe, impala, white rhino etc., which makes them a bit like zoos. Furthermore, these reserves have mostly been established recently on former farmland, which has been badly degraded as the result of centuries of bad farming practises. In short, these reserves are anything but "wild" or "natural". The least artificial reserves, e.g. Bushmans Kloof, Bontebok National Park, are small and only have some of the species that originally occurred in the area.

Since Victoria Falls and Chobe are in close proximity, it makes sense to combine the two. Bear in mind, however, that December is the rainy season, and Chobe is at its best at the end of the dry season (October/November), which is when the river attracts the greatest numbers of game.

Kruger is further from Johannesburg that Chobe is from Victoria Falls, but the numerous fly-in options to commercial airports and lodge airstrips make it easy to get to.

Johan

Wow this thread has been very informative! I would appreciate advice as I am scrambling to put together a last minute trip to Southern Africa (from April 14-May 5). My husband and I are interested in going to South Africa and also Zimbabwe for Vic Falls, but I am also interested in possibly visiting another neighboring country. This is probably our last chance for a big vacation in a while so we want to make it great, but without emptying our savings.

Here are my jumbled thoughts:

3-4 nights in Cape Town (is this enough to include a night in wine country?)
2 nights in Vic Falls

Do people recommend visiting Port Elizabeth and Durban? Any thoughts on Addo Elephant Park?

We are interested in at least one safari, maybe more. If we go to Kruger, should we also go to Sabi Sands? It sounds like we can definitely see many animals at Sabi Sands - if we had to choose should we skip Kruger?

I'd be interested in visiting Botswana, especially the Okavango Delta, but am not sure we can afford the typical luxury tours. If there are cheaper options I'd love to learn about them.

Would it be possible to fit in either Mozambique or Namibia? Any "must see"s there?

Thanks!!!

Given that you have about three weeks I would probably spend maybe five days in the Cape which gives you time to spend a few days in the city exploring Table Mountain/Cape Point/Boulders Beach/Robben Island. You can then take a drive out to the wine country, stay the night and then return to CT, perhaps stopping at Hermanus.

The towns surrounding Durban have great beaches with a much higher sea temperature than Cape Town if you're looking to swim. If you're not interested in beaches I would give Durban a miss.

I'd recommend taking a few days to see Knysna/Plettenberg Bay instead of going to Durban/PE. You could either drive along the Garden Route from Cape Town or fly from CPT to George.

As I guess you know Sabi Sands and Kruger are next to each other so you could visit both if you really wanted.

Not sure about cheaper options but the Okavango would be highly recommended. I would leave this towards the end of your trip so you're more likely to be in the floodwater season.

Namibia is a fine place to visit but I'm not sure it's a must-see if you have time constraints. I can't comment on Mozambique.

BA304 sums it up nicely.

Namibia is scenically spectacular, but it is a very big country. You need two weeks to see it properly.

Sabi-Sands and Kruger are adjacent, but offer fully-inclusive guided lodge and self-drive experiences respectively. Two rather different products. Just to confuse matters, there are a few private lodges operating on concessions in Kruger itself as well.

The cheaper Okanvago options are generally of the camping/canoeing kind, often on the fringes of the Delta to avoid national park fees. There are also a few lodges in the so-called panhandle that are less expensive that the others for the same reason.

It may sound counterintuitive, but the floods in the Okavango usually peak in the middle of the dry season, July or August. The extent of the flooding can vary considerably from year to year, as they depend on rainfall in the Angolan highlands.

Johan

Thanks BA304 and Johan for the suggestions! I may need to get your thoughts some more as our plans take shape.

I may need to get your thoughts some more as our plans take shape.Anytime.

Johan

After following several of these threads for a few months, I’ll throw my hat in the ring for the 2¢ of advice for whoever wants to give it. The set-up:
• Solo guy with about 10 days on the ground (excluding arrival and departure days, in and out of JNB from ZRH) in mid-November; probably will have the chance to add VFA or LVI as an open jaw on the return.
• Leaning toward choosing among 3 of the following, probably only one per area:
o Ezulwini Game Lodge (Kruger)
o Parfuri Camp (Kruger)
o Shindzela Tented Camp (Kruger)
o Mashatu Tent Camp (Botswana)
o Mombo (Botswana)
o Sandibe Lodge (Botswana)
o Little Makalolo Camp (Zimbabwe)
o Someplace else in Hwange (Zimbabwe)
o (someplace more “in” Victoria Falls or Livingston)
• Decent amateur photographer, looking to do some photography, but organized photography tour not required;
• From the above, you can tell I am not heading for the $1,000USD/night locations, but not the $100USD/night ones either (if those even exist);
• Sleeping in a screened tent on a bed is not a problem for me, but attempting to sleep in 85°F with high humidity is, in case that influences any recommendations; and
• I don’t mind renting a car and driving and/or taking a decent train if either are viable and safe options. OK with either left or right hand drive cars.

Thanks for any helpful or insightful thoughts or comments,

TRRed

One per area is a good idea, you will want to keep the time and money spent on transfers to a minimum.

I'm personally familiar with all the Kruger lodges you mention, as well as Mashatu. If you are going to Botswana and/or Hwange as well, I would definitely recommend Pafuri. Its main attraction is simply that it is different. It offers a scenic variety that you will not find in at any of the other destinations.

Pafuri can be combined with Mashatu if you want to, the transfer takes about is about 3½ hours by road.

You can drive to Pafuri from JNB; fly JNB-PHW and drive up, or fly straight to Pafuri from Lanseria. The direct flights must be booked through Wilderness Adventures, and may not be available every day.

November is normally a hot month, humidity will vary depending on whether the rains have arrived or not. You should expect daytime maximum temperatures of 100°F or higher, perhaps a bit lower in Balule and the Timbavati. Should a cold front sweep in from the Indian Ocean, it gets windy and a lot cooler. Pafuri and Mashatu are farthest away from the coast, and thus least exposed. Minimum temperatures at night between 60°F and 85°F.

Johan

Many thanks, Johan.

And a P.S.to my earlier e-mail: several of the options are operated by Wilderness Safaris; is there likely to be much benefit (financial or otherwise) from working with them solely?

Cheers.

several of the options are operated by Wilderness Safaris; is there likely to be much benefit (financial or otherwise) from working with them solely?There are certainly practical benefits, as you will deal with one operator only. They may well have good deals on tranfers between the lodges, and they will be in a better position to handle any delays and other unexpected problems. In my personal experience, Wilderness are very professional, and really good at sorting out any issues that may arise. I've had my fair share with transfers.

Johan

I've enjoyed reading the posts here. My college age son and I have the opportunity to visit S. Africa in late November/early December. What we have in mind is something like 4-5 days in Cape Town, 2 days at Vic Falls, and 3-4 days for safari. This would be our first visit to S.A.

I know that December is not an ideal time to take a safari, but I was wondering which place might offer the best game viewing during that time of year. Would Sabi Sands or Addo Elephant be good options.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have traveled in late November/early December several times and I really like it. There are simply not that many tourists around and the camps are usually pretty empty. Very few Americans travel between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

I have been to Addo and I have been the Sabi Sands many times. There are about twenty properties in the Sabi Sands and price and service vary on a huge scale. In my opinion the Sabi Sands offers the best general big five animal viewing in Southern Africa and especially the lodges on permanent rivers.

I suggest going on safari or to Victoria Falls first to avoid unnecessary overnights in Johannesburg or early departure/late arrival on safari if you try the MQP-LVI flight.

Day 1 Land JNB. Overnight.
Day 2,3,4,5 Safari in the Sabi Sands. Stay four nights if the lodge you use has stay3pay3 prices.
Day 6,7,8,9 Cape Town/Wine Country
Day 10,11 Victoria Falls.

Hope this helps. Give a budget and I can give you specific advice. I have been following the Bremerton stories in the news. My kids went to school there when I was in the Navy!

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond

Edited - Sorry. Started a new thread since there are non-safari related questions as well.

Lots of incredible knowledge and advice on this thread. My wife, 18 year old daughter and I are in the early stages of planning a safari next summer (late June, July 2013). We are looking at 10 days or so with another week or so in Cape Town. After some reading we were thinking about Botswana with perhaps South Africa or other areas. We are trying to get a handle on the resources for planning the trip and whether it is better to use a tour operator (Micato, &Beyond,etc), a travel agency or try to plan it ourselves. It all seems very overwhelming. Lots of great information so far just looking for any additional thoughts or advice.
Thanks. Drum;)

Welcome to Flyertalk, conundrum ^

If you're feeling overwhelmed, have a look at this thread for some general tips on planning a safari (http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/africa/1314062-how-do-i-even-begin-planning-safari.html)

June/July is a great time to visit for safaris. Kruger in South Africa or the Okavango Delta in Botswana would be the classics for first time game viewing. They're very different so you could visit both.

I don't have much experience with tour operators but I'm sure someone will be along to give better advice.

If you're looking at visiting Cape Town, be aware that the weather can be a bit rubbish in the Cape at that time of year. It's relatively cold and there can be quite a bit of rain although there should be some sun too. Other parts of SA would be better weather-wise.

Just back with my family from southern Africa, and I want to thank Johan and others here for giving me great advice for my trip.

Kruger was truly amazing, and it is insanely easy -- and relatively inexpensive -- to do it yourself. Honestly, anyone paying money (big money, of course) for someone to ESCORT them on safari is frittering that money away. In a week, we saw enough animals -- at very close distance -- to last us a lifetime. In a typical day, we saw dozens of elephants, giraffe, zebras, hippos, rino etc., and so many antelope-like creatures that they become almost as exciting as squirrels. Only cats are relatively hard to see, but we did see one pride of more than a dozen lions from about 25 meters away, and we did get to see a male lion eat a buffalo from less than 10 meters away (he was sitting next to the road). It was great to be able to go wherever and whenever we wanted, and I can't imagine an organized tour would have been better.

Accomodations in the gov't owned rest camps are comfortable: some are better than others, and it's certainly worth doing your homework and planning ahead. On average, accomodations are better and cheaper than in USA national parks (especially for families), and you always get a braai pit to BBQ your dinner (best to bring supplies with you from outside the park, so bring a cooler for the meat and such). If you don't want to cook any of your own meals, the rest camp restaurants are cheap and more than decent, albeit without "exciting" cuisine.

We got lucky and were upgraded from a regular car to a 4-wheel drive SUV. While you could do it in a car, the SUV is very nice as there are some unpaved roads in Kruger that are worth driving on and it's nice to have the security and clearance of the SUV.

The "problem" with visiting Kruger and then going elsewhere is that everything else in southern Africa isn't as good as Kruger. You really don't need to see animals anywhere else. And South Africa as a whole is pleasant but odd: you tend to live in a first world cocoon in a third world country. Thanks to a great Avios dea, we also went up to Victoria Falls. Worthwhile -- especially since we didn't have to pay the airfare -- but shots, visas, entrance fees and accomodations add up. If time is limited, I'd just do Kruger and skip everything else.

We didn't go to Cape Town because of the distance and poor June weather, but that's probably what I'd add on my next Kruger trip.

Lots of incredible knowledge and advice on this thread. My wife, 18 year old daughter and I are in the early stages of planning a safari next summer (late June, July 2013). We are looking at 10 days or so with another week or so in Cape Town. After some reading we were thinking about Botswana with perhaps South Africa or other areas. We are trying to get a handle on the resources for planning the trip and whether it is better to use a tour operator (Micato, &Beyond,etc), a travel agency or try to plan it ourselves. It all seems very overwhelming. Lots of great information so far just looking for any additional thoughts or advice.
Thanks. Drum;)

I just returned from a trip to Zambia with friends. This was my second visit to Zambia. We stayed at Robin Pope camps.

Game viewing was spectacular.....many lion and leopard sightings. Wild dog also.

I have also been to Botswana......I have a slight preference for Zambia, but Botswana is a wonderful place.

I will be in SA for a conference in Cape Town next week, spending about a week and a half there with time to do all the Cape Town area must-sees and some time in the wine country. All the great information here has helped convince me that I really should take a few days to do a safari before flying back out of JNB, but I am still pretty overwhelmed by the choices. I have been looking at some of the lodges in Madikwe, Sabi Sands and Kapama (can't go highest end, but with winter specials it looks like I can get something pretty good in the $400-500 a night range, and I am interested in some degree of luxury along with the game!).

My only small hesitation is that I might feel a little awkward at some of these places as a solo (female) traveller, so I am mostly wondering if anyone has any advice on options that might be especially welcoming and comfortable -- maybe slightly less honeymooner-focused, any that don't charge a single supplement, whether larger or smaller would be better, that sort of thing. Anything to help me narrow this down would be greatly appreciated! I have four nights free, and also would welcome any advice about whether that seems like an excessive amount of time, or about right.

Thanks for all the great information so far!

My wife and I are in the research stage of an Africa trip (our very first) for 2013. Dates yet to be determined.
I would not want to be anywhere when it is too hot though as I am a northern climate guy and am used to Vancouver BC temperatures.

We are both in our lower 40s and in very good health.Total number of days would be 9 to 12 days total in Africa.We have traveled already by ourselves (non group) through the bottom third of South America, parts of central and northern India, and parts of western Europe.

However for the Africa visit we are considering for the first time being part of a group.We prefer a smaller group of less than say 8 other people besides us in it.

We would like to visit the South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique area, yet have not decided which country(s) or where/which parts yet, and we are budgeting no more than $ 6000.00 for both us of together, and then we will have to pay of course for our airfare in addition to that.

We do not mind "some" work as far as cleaning and prepping vegetables and setting up as I have seen is required by some tours and safaris, yet we do not want "lots" of work, we would like a vacation, not a work trip.Several tour websites I have seen say you will be doing this or that every day, and I really do not want that much work, "some" work would be okay though.

As well, I don't mind being in a jeep or other vehicle for a few hours in a day, say three or four max, but do not want to spend lets say 7 or 8 hours all day driving, that would not be my idea of fun.

We would like to primarily see wildlife and be immersed in nature, yet of course with a knowledgeable guide who knows where and what to see when.

All thoughts and advice would be appreciated.Thanks to all who answer.

My only small hesitation is that I might feel a little awkward at some of these places as a solo (female) travellerNo reason to worry, you won't feel awkward anywhere. I mostly travel solo, it has never been a problem in anywhere. I'm admittedly male, but I don't think that makes any difference.

Solo travelers are in the minority at game lodges, as are young adults. In a broader sense guests are a very mixed bunch, so lodges are pretty adept at welcoming and catering to a great variety of tastes and preferences, be they culinary, cultural or whatever. The only thing that sometimes causes a bit of a disruption is the arrival of a single female who is both young and pretty, but that's because most of the game rangers / guides are male, young and socially isolated in the bush. Hormones take over, with hilarious consequences at times.

As for single supplements, some lodges do not charge them, but those are mostly the very upmarket ones. However, if you are not traveling in the high season, the single supplement might well be negotiable.

Johan

I would not want to be anywhere when it is too hot though as I am a northern climate guy and am used to Vancouver BC temperatures.If you are considering southern Africa and want BC temperatures, you are pretty much restricted to June-August. Even then the days can get warm, but the nights will be nice and cool, if not downright chilly.

Johan

I also visited Kruger and Vic Falls in June (along with Namibia) and it was great. Many thanks to Johan and the rest who helped me with my itinerary. I am planning to write a trip report to share my experiences when I find a little bit of time. I also saw a lot of game in Kruger, except cats! Stayed 4 nights, in Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie, Skukuza and Berg-endal. The first two, no cats! And I supposedly I was in the area with the highest concentration, including the "leopard triangle". The third day, I saw a leopard sleeping by a small waterhole, but there were so many cars around, it was hard to get a good view. The fourth day was the best, when I saw a lion sleeping, then came back to find him joined by his lioness right by the road, looking curiously at the cars nearby. I also self drove, and found the camps perfect for a solo-traveler. If you don't feel like cooking, the food at the restaurants is ok.

Just back with my family from southern Africa, and I want to thank Johan and others here for giving me great advice for my trip.

Kruger was truly amazing, and it is insanely easy -- and relatively inexpensive -- to do it yourself. Honestly, anyone paying money (big money, of course) for someone to ESCORT them on safari is frittering that money away. In a week, we saw enough animals -- at very close distance -- to last us a lifetime. In a typical day, we saw dozens of elephants, giraffe, zebras, hippos, rino etc., and so many antelope-like creatures that they become almost as exciting as squirrels. Only cats are relatively hard to see, but we did see one pride of more than a dozen lions from about 25 meters away, and we did get to see a male lion eat a buffalo from less than 10 meters away (he was sitting next to the road). It was great to be able to go wherever and whenever we wanted, and I can't imagine an organized tour would have been better.

Accomodations in the gov't owned rest camps are comfortable: some are better than others, and it's certainly worth doing your homework and planning ahead. On average, accomodations are better and cheaper than in USA national parks (especially for families), and you always get a braai pit to BBQ your dinner (best to bring supplies with you from outside the park, so bring a cooler for the meat and such). If you don't want to cook any of your own meals, the rest camp restaurants are cheap and more than decent, albeit without "exciting" cuisine.

We got lucky and were upgraded from a regular car to a 4-wheel drive SUV. While you could do it in a car, the SUV is very nice as there are some unpaved roads in Kruger that are worth driving on and it's nice to have the security and clearance of the SUV.

The "problem" with visiting Kruger and then going elsewhere is that everything else in southern Africa isn't as good as Kruger. You really don't need to see animals anywhere else. And South Africa as a whole is pleasant but odd: you tend to live in a first world cocoon in a third world country. Thanks to a great Avios dea, we also went up to Victoria Falls. Worthwhile -- especially since we didn't have to pay the airfare -- but shots, visas, entrance fees and accomodations add up. If time is limited, I'd just do Kruger and skip everything else.

We didn't go to Cape Town because of the distance and poor June weather, but that's probably what I'd add on my next Kruger trip.

...We would like to visit the South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique area, yet have not decided which country(s) or where/which parts yet, and we are budgeting no more than $ 6000.00 for both us of together, and then we will have to pay of course for our airfare in addition to that...

Okay, here's what I'll throw out.

I'd pick one area. With that limited amount of time, hopping about will use up too many days and too many dollars. As it's your first time in Africa, frankly I'd make it easy on myself in terms of logistics. Go and enjoy the place, rather than being distracted with the demands of moving around or having to deal with multiple currencies, multiple travel companies, etc.

I too would recommend the Kruger area in SA, but I'd look at a combination of self-catering rest camp accommodations, along with a couple of nights in a higher-end lodge in one of the private game reserves that abut KNP. I'd go in July or August, when the weather is coolest in the day, but also dry. Since it's winter, the absence of foliage makes for easier wildlife viewing. No mosquitoes, either, so no need for malaria meds.

The benefit of the lodges is that they can take you off-road, which will greatly expand the chances of seeing wildlife in different environments, at different times of day, etc. The rangers and trackers in the private reserves are remarkably knowledgeable and you'll end up knowing a lot more than you did on arrival.

I'd scrub the tour group idea. Unnecessary IMO; the country is too easy to deal with.

This year, self catering accommodations in e.g. the Skukuza Rest Camp in KNP are around US$112 per night. At the Elephant Plains (http://www.elephantplains.co.za/) lodge in the Sabi Sand reserve (a very comfortable lodge) a "rondavel" (round-ish private guest room) is around $220 per person, so say $440 per night (inclusive of all meals and game drives.)

So with your budget, here's what I'd do: Fly to Joburg and stay at the airport for one night while you get your wits about you and clocks slightly adjusted. Day 2, rent a car (around $400 for 10 days) and drive up to KNP (takes a day on mostly excellent roads) and stay at a rest camp for three nights. Drive your own vehicle through the park on the permitted roads.

Then move to a lodge priced similarly to Elephant Plains for three nights.

Then spend one additional night visiting the Panoramic Route (not far from KNP.)

Then back to Joburg, drop the car, and spend one or more nights in Joburg - take a township tour, etc.

Total 9+ nights; my estimate is that you'd be looking at around $5000 all in, staying at comfortable accommodations around JNB.

Alternatively, you could fly from JNB to Cape Town (around $125) and spend a couple of nights there, prices more or less competitive.

It would be just a taste of southern Africa, an easy one, but one that would whet your appetites without question.

Just my two bits.

I also visited Kruger and Vic Falls in June (along with Namibia) and it was great. Many thanks to Johan and the rest who helped me with my itinerary. I am planning to write a trip report to share my experiences when I find a little bit of time. I also saw a lot of game in Kruger, except cats! Stayed 4 nights, in Crocodile Bridge, Lower Sabie, Skukuza and Berg-endal. The first two, no cats! And I supposedly I was in the area with the highest concentration, including the "leopard triangle". The third day, I saw a leopard sleeping by a small waterhole, but there were so many cars around, it was hard to get a good view. The fourth day was the best, when I saw a lion sleeping, then came back to find him joined by his lioness right by the road, looking curiously at the cars nearby. I also self drove, and found the camps perfect for a solo-traveler. If you don't feel like cooking, the food at the restaurants is ok.

Glad we weren't the only ones who "struggled" in Kruger to see cats. The reality is that it is SO easy to see all the other animals that you focus on seeing cats because after your 100th elephant or zebra you're looking for more of a challenge! Cats are hard enough to spot that there's still the thrill of finding them.

I'm surprised by the reluctance of many travellers to head out to Kruger by themselves. I would think that most folks adventurous enough to visit Africa would be adventurous enough to self-drive. It truly is unbelievably easy: read a couple of overviews, book accomodations ahead of time on the SanParks website or by phone (check later for cancellations if you can't get exactly what you want), rent a car, and you're set. A self-drive trip to Kruger offers tremendous value, and it's hard for me to imagine anyone not finding it to be one of their favorite vacations.

My only additional tip is not to ignore northern Kruger, at least in June. "Everyone" says it's easier to see wildlife in southern Kruger but -- at least in June -- that wasn't true. Plenty of wildlife in the north and it was easy to see the animals there, especially by the watering holes. It's a nice departure from the (relative) crowds of the south; in the north, there were far more animals than people.

Glad we weren't the only ones who "struggled" in Kruger to see cats.That's where the private lodges trump Kruger. They keep tabs on their local cats, and with the benefit of off-road driving they can roll up to them almost anywhere. The downside is that you risk spending time with the same (sleeping) cats over and over again.

In Kruger it is more difficult, but there are ways to increase your chances. You can plan your game drives to maximize your cat encounters, but you need to know a bit about the behavior and habits of the various species, and it really helps if you know Kruger like the back of your hand. Once you are well familiar with each and every road, it suddenly gets a lot easier. If you have then also honed your spotting skills to perfection, you can expect to see lions every day on average, leopards about three times a week. Cheetah far less often, and the chances of encountering the smaller cats will very much depend on where in Kruger you are driving.

Booking one or more night drives can also help, and then there is the tried and tested technique of covering as much ground as fast as possible in the hope of encountering a roadblock at a sighting. This is the method that causes so much annoyance to other visitors, but the unfortunate truth is that it works.

As far as the north goes, I could not agree more. The area between the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers is more or less my home patch, there is no better place in Kruger in my opinion.

Johan

Sounds like good advice, Johan. Chances are if there are more than 2 cars parked alongside the road, it's a cat sighting. :)

We used the map boards in each camp for cat spotting tips (visitors place magnets where they've seen certain animals in the past day). We got to see a male lion eat a buffalo carcass next to the road this way (with hyena waiting in the wings to eat).

Although Kruger is a spectacular place to see animals, one thing SanParks does not do very well is interpretation. Go to a USA National Park and the rangers are all about interpretation. In a South African park, don't expect a lot of assistance finding sites or understanding what you're seeing (although there are a couple of interesting museums in Kruger). You're just more on your own.

That's where the private lodges trump Kruger. They keep tabs on their local cats, and with the benefit of off-road driving they can roll up to them almost anywhere. The downside is that you risk spending time with the same (sleeping) cats over and over again.

In Kruger it is more difficult, but there are ways to increase your chances. You can plan your game drives to maximize your cat encounters, but you need to know a bit about the behavior and habits of the various species, and it really helps if you know Kruger like the back of your hand. Once you are well familiar with each and every road, it suddenly gets a lot easier. If you have then also honed your spotting skills to perfection, you can expect to see lions every day on average, leopards about three times a week. Cheetah far less often, and the chances of encountering the smaller cats will very much depend on where in Kruger you are driving.

Booking one or more night drives can also help, and then there is the tried and tested technique of covering as much ground as fast as possible in the hope of encountering a roadblock at a sighting. This is the method that causes so much annoyance to other visitors, but the unfortunate truth is that it works.

As far as the north goes, I could not agree more. The area between the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers is more or less my home patch, there is no better place in Kruger in my opinion.

Johan

has anyone ever used this travel agency safari company "Dumela Botswana" ?
http://www.dumelabotswana.com/

any and all reviews would be greatly appreciated
thank you in advance.

I am entertaining the idea of a trip to South Africa because we now have enough miles in our Alaska Airlines accounts for a first class award redemption on Cathay Pacific for North America to Africa. Best yet, the mileage cost is the same for either JNB or HKG, but with AS, we can have a stopover at HKG. So my plan is to visit South Africa first, then on our way back we make the stopover at HKG to visit families and friends. This is going to be in 2nd half of 2013 the earliest. Or it could be in Jan 2014. If Jan 2014 works out, we could then spend Chinese New Year in HKG on our way back to US.

My understanding is, correct me if I am wrong - Winter time is the best viewing time in Kruger, but it is also very bad time to visit Cape Town. CX also only has 3-class plane serving HKG-JNB route in Summer high season. It downgauges to 2-class plane in Winter. Though I dont have an idea why Summer is considered high season if the major attraction, Kruger NP is best visited in Winter,

Could the experts give me the draw backs of visiting Kruger in Summer time?

If we want to enjoy both Kruger and Cape Town, what months would be the optimal time?

Thanks a lot for the help.

I am entertaining the idea of a trip to South Africa because we now have enough miles in our Alaska Airlines accounts for a first class award redemption on Cathay Pacific for North America to Africa. Best yet, the mileage cost is the same for either JNB or HKG, but with AS, we can have a stopover at HKG. So my plan is to visit South Africa first, then on our way back we make the stopover at HKG to visit families and friends. This is going to be in 2nd half of 2013 the earliest. Or it could be in Jan 2014. If Jan 2014 works out, we could then spend Chinese New Year in HKG on our way back to US.

My understanding is, correct me if I am wrong - Winter time is the best viewing time in Kruger, but it is also very bad time to visit Cape Town. CX also only has 3-class plane serving HKG-JNB route in Summer high season. It downgauges to 2-class plane in Winter. Though I dont have an idea why Summer is considered high season if the major attraction, Kruger NP is best visited in Winter,

Could the experts give me the draw backs of visiting Kruger in Summer time?

If we want to enjoy both Kruger and Cape Town, what months would be the optimal time?

Thanks a lot for the help.

You're right that the optimal times to visit CPT and Kruger do not coincide.

The disadvantages of visiting Kruger in summer are that there is more vegetation which makes viewing game more difficult and you will probably have to take something for malaria. It's also the rainy season and much hotter.

However, some prefer that it's more lush and there are more birds.

You're right that the optimal times to visit CPT and Kruger do not coincide.

The disadvantages of visiting Kruger in summer are that there is more vegetation which makes viewing game more difficult and you will probably have to take something for malaria. It's also the rainy season and much hotter.

However, some prefer that it's more lush and there are more birds.

I've only done Kruger in the winter, and there certainly seems to be some downside to going in the summer, but probably not enough downside to make it not worthwhile. As far as heat goes, you're not likely to be "hiking around" so that would seem relatively OK (hot in Camp in the evening, though?). I guess it's A LITTLE HARDER to spot animals but, jeez, there are so many animals I can't imagine it would matter that much. As far as meds go, taking malarone is very easy (if you have insurance to pay for it).

Could there be a "shoulder season" compromise?

We used the map boards in each camp for cat spotting tipsThese boards can be very helpful, but should be used with caution, as they are often highly inaccurate. A lot of people haven't a clue where they have seen a particular species and just take a guess when placing the magnet, and plenty cannot even identify species correctly. You would be surprised how many people call cheetahs leopards, etc.

one thing SanParks does not do very well is interpretation. In a South African park, don't expect a lot of assistance finding sites or understanding what you're seeing .If you go on guided walks or drives you can get very good guides indeed, but not always. It is a bit of hit and miss, although trails guides at least should all be highly qualified. At peak times (i.e. SA school vacations) the Honorary Rangers do a good job providing interpretative services in the major rest camps.

There is also a large selection of field guides and natural history books availlable that comprehensively cover the flora, fauna, geology etc. of the park. Such information is only rarely and partially available for other parks in Africa.

Could the experts give me the draw backs of visiting Kruger in Summer time? BA304 pretty much sums it up, although I personally do not think that malaria prophylactics are necessary in the KNP at all.

I much prefer visiting in summer, as the park is much more pleasing to the eye when lush and green; trees, shrubs and flowers are flowering; everything smells fresh; they air is clear of dust; the rivers are flowing; the birds are more numerous and singing and breeding; many animals give birth to their young; and outside the school vacations there are fewer visitors.

The heat, humidity and rain can be coped with. Spotting animals in thick vegetation is indeed more difficult, although it is not always that easy in the dry season either (lions are tawny, not green, for good reason). What does make things harder that the availability of surface water everywhere in summer spreads the game out, whereas in winter they tend to stay closer to the few perennial sources. The availability of man-made waterholes, dams, weirs etc. along the tourist roads artificially improves game viewing in the dry seaon, but has the opposite effect in summer, when the animals move away from the overgrazed areas around these watering spots.

Johan

I'm going to throw in a bit of a different type of question and it has to do with clothing. I'm heading to Africa/Middle East in early September. I start out with the first week in South Africa (Cape Town and Thornybush Game Reserve) with a jaunt to Victoria Falls. The second week is more of my typical whirlwind of short stays in a lot of places (Botswana, Tanzania, Dubai, Sychelles, and Egypt). I expect to hit a lot of varying climates and don't want to pack for two full weeks so I'm looking for suggestions for clothing at that time.

I've also heard the horror stories about long connections in JNB and things taken out of luggage. I usually don't put things of value in my checked bags and plan on one checked bag plus one carry-on to supplement my laptop bag.

BA304 pretty much sums it up, although I personally do not think that malaria prophylactics are necessary in the KNP at all.

I much prefer visiting in summer, as the park is much more pleasing to the eye when lush and green; trees, shrubs and flowers are flowering; everything smells fresh; they air is clear of dust; the rivers are flowing; the birds are more numerous and singing and breeding; many animals give birth to their young; and outside the school vacations there are fewer visitors.

The heat, humidity and rain can be coped with. Spotting animals in thick vegetation is indeed more difficult, although it is not always that easy in the dry season either (lions are tawny, not green, for good reason). What does make things harder that the availability of surface water everywhere in summer spreads the game out, whereas in winter they tend to stay closer to the few perennial sources. The availability of man-made waterholes, dams, weirs etc. along the tourist roads artificially improves game viewing in the dry seaon, but has the opposite effect in summer, when the animals move away from the overgrazed areas around these watering spots.

Johan

I look at the pics for the Winter time and really dont like the scenes - I mean, viewing animals up close is exciting, but I much prefer a lush, green backdrops than the brown branches.

While spotting animals would be more difficult with vegetation, but with a lush backdrop, the whole experience might be more pleasing to the eyes, coupled that with the babies that you dont see in Winter I assume.

What would be the best compromised months that would offer good Kruger experiences AND good CPT experiences?

What would be the best compromised months that would offer good Kruger experiences AND good CPT experiences?

I think a "compromise" month would be a good idea -- especially if you're planning only one trip to South Africa.

Otherwise, my hunch is that winter IS better than summer for game viewing. I'm looking at some of my photos (is there an easy way to put them up on flyertalk for folks to see how amazing the game viewing is?) and I can see why winter would be better. Like I've got these pictures of a lion eating a water buffalo. There are a couple of branches in front of him, which aren't a problem because they have no leaves. With leaves, half the lion would likely be obscured.

And there's still a lot of foliage in Kruger in winter. Not as much as, say, South Florida, but a lot of the trees are still green. It's the grass and the shrubs that tend to be brown-ish.

I think a "compromise" month would be a good idea -- especially if you're planning only one trip to South Africa.You could try October, i.e. spring. The first rains may or may not already have fallen, that's impossible to predict, although the chances of that happening are far higher in southern Kruger than in the far north. Trees and certain shrubs will already be floweriing or coming into leaf, independent of rainfall, so it will be looking a lot more pleasant regardless.

Otherwise, my hunch is that winter IS better than summer for game viewing. Like I've got these pictures of a lion eating a water buffalo. Yes, to some extent, but if you saw a lion eating a water buffalo, that would have been in a zoo, or it would have been a world sensation.

And there's still a lot of foliage in Kruger in winter. Not as much as, say, South Florida, but a lot of the trees are still green. It's the grass and the shrubs that tend to be brown-ish.Certain tree and shrub species are indeed perennial, but the former grow almost exclusively on riverbanks, and the latter are often tied to specific soil types, and therefore patchily distributed. Large swathes of Kruger look completely defoliated in winter.

Johan

Yes, to some extent, but if you saw a lion eating a water buffalo, that would have been in a zoo, or it would have been a world sensation.

Ah, yes, it was an "African Buffalo."

Hey, when you're from America, it's hard enough not to call bison "buffalo." :)

Since I want CPT being enjoyable, and I also want CX F service to JNB, I will ask CX forum what months CX would start its seasonal 3-class service to JNB. Hopefully it starts in Oct.

Has anyone ever used, or heard anything at all, good or bad, about these companies below ? Thank You in advance for any and all replies.

Basecamp Tanzania
GoodEarth Tours
Real Adventure Safaris




http://www.realadventuresafaris.com/accommodations-camping.htm

http://www.goodearthtours.com/WhyChooseUs.html

http://www.basecamptanzania.com/safaris.htm

I will start a 5-day safari with Basecamp next week. So far dealing with them has been good. But will only really know once it is over.

With my upcoming trip planning for next year, this post has been extremely informative. Thank you!

This is a very informative thread. We are also planning a trip to SA next year.
We mainly would like to see Cape Town, Kruger and Vic Falls. I know that there is no best months for the 3 places we would like to see, so what will be the pros/cons of traveling end August/beg September.
As always, thanks for all your input.

MH.

This is a very informative thread. We are also planning a trip to SA next year.
We mainly would like to see Cape Town, Kruger and Vic Falls. I know that there is no best months for the 3 places we would like to see, so what will be the pros/cons of traveling end August/beg September.
As always, thanks for all your input.

MH.

You've managed to pick the 3 southern African destinations that are furthest from each other. :)

Do you have any Avios point? It would be helpful for such an itinerary. FWIW, I think Vic Falls offers the worst value, and would be the first one I cut from an itinerary. This is especially true if you can't get there on ff miles.

I would have to disagree here. Vic Falls is a majestic sight and I'm glad I spent the $$$ to see it. One day is enough. I got there around noon. Flew SFO-FRA-JNB-LVI. Left for Kruger in the early afternoon the next day. I flew to Kruger via JNB but there is also a direct flight, although not daily and on a turboprop. I stayed at the Zambezi sun, which is right by the falls for around $300, and enjoyed my stay.

You've managed to pick the 3 southern African destinations that are furthest from each other. :)

Do you have any Avios point? It would be helpful for such an itinerary. FWIW, I think Vic Falls offers the worst value, and would be the first one I cut from an itinerary. This is especially true if you can't get there on ff miles.

I would have to disagree here. Vic Falls is a majestic sight and I'm glad I spent the $$$ to see it. One day is enough. I got there around noon. Flew SFO-FRA-JNB-LVI. Left for Kruger in the early afternoon the next day. I flew to Kruger via JNB but there is also a direct flight, although not daily and on a turboprop. I stayed at the Zambezi sun, which is right by the falls for around $300, and enjoyed my stay.

Wow -- incurring that expense for ONE DAY? We spent 3, which seemed about right if you weren't going to go onward into Botswana and such. Different strokes for different folks.

The enjoyment of Vic Falls is somewhat dependent on water flow. We were there in June, where there was excellent flow -- but perhaps a bit too much, as the mist partially obscured the views. In my tour of "waterfalls of the world," Vic Falls was impressive. but not the best. For example, I think I liked Iguazu more.

BTW, tourism is down at Vic Falls these days because of the poor value proposition. You can pretty much count on spending twice as much for a day at Vic Falls as for a day in South Africa.

Given the hotel is one of the biggest expenditure items, if I stayed 3 days, I would spend 900. One day was perfectly fine. I agree that the mist was a bit much. I definitely should have brought a waterproof camera or transparent plastic bag.

Wow -- incurring that expense for ONE DAY? We spent 3, which seemed about right if you weren't going to go onward into Botswana and such. Different strokes for different folks.

The enjoyment of Vic Falls is somewhat dependent on water flow. We were there in June, where there was excellent flow -- but perhaps a bit too much, as the mist partially obscured the views. In my tour of "waterfalls of the world," Vic Falls was impressive. but not the best. For example, I think I liked Iguazu more.

BTW, tourism is down at Vic Falls these days because of the poor value proposition. You can pretty much count on spending twice as much for a day at Vic Falls as for a day in South Africa.

Hello,
Yes I do have a lot of Avios pts, just learned that I can use Avios on Comair for short flights. On the other hand, I think we can use SAA (*alliance) to reach victoria Falls (VFA), so it will be something like: LAX-LHR-JNB-VFA
Look like it will be quite expensive for a couple days at Vic Falls (visa, entrance fees, hotel...). Last year, we went to Iguazu Falls and it is really marvelous, really one of a lifetime trip ! So still wondering should we go to Vic Falls or skip it ?
Thanks all.

MH.

Hello,
Yes I do have a lot of Avios pts, just learned that I can use Avios on Comair for short flights. On the other hand, I think we can use SAA (*alliance) to reach victoria Falls (VFA), so it will be something like: LAX-LHR-JNB-VFA
Look like it will be quite expensive for a couple days at Vic Falls (visa, entrance fees, hotel...). Last year, we went to Iguazu Falls and it is really marvelous, really one of a lifetime trip ! So still wondering should we go to Vic Falls or skip it ?
Thanks all.

MH.

Personal preference. As I mentioned, I thought Vic Falls was not as good as Iguazu, but it certainly was interesting -- as was visiting a little slice of Zambia and Zimbabwe. The only real reason not to go is cost. Like I wouldn't buy a $500+ ticket from JNB. If you have the free airfare, and the time, I'd say go for it. Yes, your expenses on the ground will probably be twice that of S. Africa (including stupid things like high visa fees and a yellow fever shot), but how often would you have the chance to go?

My wife finally convinced her father that he needed to take a trip to JNB (and Kruger) while he was still physically capable of doing so. To that end we were able to obtain three award tickets to JNB arriving in the evening on the 6th of OCT and departing back out on late in the evening on the 11th of OCT (via AMS on KLM). Yes, we would like to have stayed longer but schedules and life make it impossible to stay any longer.

I figure we only do Kruger (or some other park) to minimize my amount of time spent moving between locations but I wanted to get a handle on what would make this a memorable trip for my FIL as my wife and I figure to come back to SA later but this will probably be his one and only trip.

Is it better for us to do a self-guided tour or is it better for us to find a tour company given my main goal is getting my FIL to see as many of the SA things as possible. If the tour company is a better option then any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Unless you know what you're doing, I'd go with a safari. Check the other thread I posted in, but Naledi Bushcamp was great and cheap. It seems like if you choose a good private game reserve, you'll have a good time either way.


My wife finally convinced her father that he needed to take a trip to JNB (and Kruger) while he was still physically capable of doing so. To that end we were able to obtain three award tickets to JNB arriving in the evening on the 6th of OCT and departing back out on late in the evening on the 11th of OCT (via AMS on KLM). Yes, we would like to have stayed longer but schedules and life make it impossible to stay any longer.

I figure we only do Kruger (or some other park) to minimize my amount of time spent moving between locations but I wanted to get a handle on what would make this a memorable trip for my FIL as my wife and I figure to come back to SA later but this will probably be his one and only trip.

Is it better for us to do a self-guided tour or is it better for us to find a tour company given my main goal is getting my FIL to see as many of the SA things as possible. If the tour company is a better option then any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

My wife finally convinced her father that he needed to take a trip to JNB (and Kruger) while he was still physically capable of doing so. To that end we were able to obtain three award tickets to JNB arriving in the evening on the 6th of OCT and departing back out on late in the evening on the 11th of OCT (via AMS on KLM). Yes, we would like to have stayed longer but schedules and life make it impossible to stay any longer.

I figure we only do Kruger (or some other park) to minimize my amount of time spent moving between locations but I wanted to get a handle on what would make this a memorable trip for my FIL as my wife and I figure to come back to SA later but this will probably be his one and only trip.

Is it better for us to do a self-guided tour or is it better for us to find a tour company given my main goal is getting my FIL to see as many of the SA things as possible. If the tour company is a better option then any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I don't want to get preachy, but you're taking your father-in-law on a "once in a lifetime" trip to South Africa and you can only find 5 days? I mean, that's crazy. The jet lag alone is likely to exhaust him for a day or two. Personally, I'd wait until I could at least put aside a week before making such an insanely long trip across the world (I'm assuming you're coming from N. America). Finding another 2 days from your "busy life" will exponentially improve your South African experience. Ten days would be a heck of a lot better.

I don't have any personal experience with Naledi, but they have an excellent reputation -- especially for delivering value for money. Given your extremely tight schedule, having someone help you with your arrangements seems somewhat logical.

That said, if you want to "go it alone," it is amazingly simple and cheap -- assuming this isn't your "first rodeo" overseas. Arriving at the JNB airport, you would pick up a rental car and spend the night near the airport (I'd recommend the Outlook Lodge for a genuine "South African" experience).

The next morning, you drive east on a highway (much as you would anywhere in the developed world) to the Malelane gate at Kruger. Stock up on supplies at the Spar supermarket in Malelane if you want to do your own evening braai (grilling). Food is dirt cheap in the Kruger camp, but grilling is more fun. Stay in a rondeval/hut in the south end of the park, like at Berg en Dal. Maybe split your time between 2 camps in the south. You'll see a mind-boggling number of animals from your rental car (you can also go on guided trips if you like), and the cost will be extremely modest. On the morning of the 11th, drive back to JNB.

Rather than starting a whole new thread I thought I'd tack my query on to this one.

I'm planning for 2015 a S. Africa solo visit and wanted some general input on itinerary as I'd like to do the "Garden Route" from Capetown possibly all the way along the coast to Durban and spend approx 3 weeks doing that trip.

I've done some prelimiary research but want to spend some time in each Durban and Capetown, say 4 or 5 nights in each, then 2 nights at a private nature reserve like Grootbos (http://www.grootbos.com/en/home/) along the coast near Hermanus, Cape Agulhas then on to Port Elizabeth for a few nights, East London and ending in Durban.

Time of the year is up in the air, though late April to June work easiest for me to escape work.

That's the broad strokes but it's something I want to make happen as I've seen a few websites and talked to a few people that have done the trip and think I'll really fallen for this part of the country. While I'd like to see everything in S. Africa I know I can't realistically cram everything in so would have to save Jo'burg, Kruger, Pretoria and Sun City for another trip. Any thoughts are quite welcome as I'm not even at square one yet. :)

Late-April to June, you are taking a big risk with the weather in the Cape; might be nice, might be diabolical (like this (http://www.runnersworld.co.za/galleries/knysna-marathon-route-flooded/))

There's nothing to see in Port Elizabeth, and less than nothing in East London.

The Wild Coast is attractive, but rugged and touristically under-served. Roads are crap, hotels are subpar, and the area is desperately poor. I'm not sure I'd take this on on my first trip to SA.

In terms of touristic interest, I would overweight Cape Town and underweight Durban (4 or 5 nights in each sounds way too...democratic).

Cape Town is fantastic. I did a drive from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth but I'm not sure I'd do it if I didn't have a reason to. Last time, I drove from JNB to Swaziland and was blown away.

Did the trip in May and the weather was great. But a week later, the weather in Cape Town was awful.

(We drove from Cape Town up to Nambia and then flew to JNB)

The Wild Coast is attractive, but rugged and touristically under-served.Which is exactly what makes it so appealing.

Johan

Recommend the masai mara instead. Way more animals and lot more action.we were there in 2010. Loved it! Also when in capetown try shark diving in gainsboro. It was awesome!!!!

.

Hello all:

I really hope someone here can help me. My wife and I are going to be in Cape Town in a few weeks and we're having a hard time finding a safari 4-5 days in length while there. Everything we've come across is super expensive. Krueger is where we'd like to go, although we are open to other parks depending on the cost. Our budget is $2500 USD, including flights, lodging, meals, game drives, airport transfers, taxes and fees. So far, I haven't found anything close to that. I've been looking for weeks and am getting a bit frustrated with each passing. Am I being unrealistic or am I just not looking in the right places? Is it cheaper to book something once there?

Desired dates of travel: January 13-17, 2013

Departing to/from: Cape Town (CPT)

prefer direct flights, but willing to make a brief layover in Jo'berg if it helps lessen the flight cost.

Any help/pointers you guys can provide would be much appreciated. TIA!

...I really hope someone here can help me. My wife and I are going to be in Cape Town in a few weeks and we're having a hard time finding a safari 4-5 days in length while there...
Have a look at tours in Etosha, Namibia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Etosha_National_Park). Better than Kruger in my opinion

Hello all:

I really hope someone here can help me. My wife and I are going to be in Cape Town in a few weeks and we're having a hard time finding a safari 4-5 days in length while there. Everything we've come across is super expensive. Krueger is where we'd like to go, although we are open to other parks depending on the cost. Our budget is $2500 USD, including flights, lodging, meals, game drives, airport transfers, taxes and fees. So far, I haven't found anything close to that. I've been looking for weeks and am getting a bit frustrated with each passing. Am I being unrealistic or am I just not looking in the right places? Is it cheaper to book something once there?

Desired dates of travel: January 13-17, 2013

Departing to/from: Cape Town (CPT)

prefer direct flights, but willing to make a brief layover in Jo'berg if it helps lessen the flight cost.

Any help/pointers you guys can provide would be much appreciated. TIA!

Some ideas: look at some of the lodges in Madikwe...tend to be very good quality / price ratios and malaria-free. Another of my top tips is Makalali; this place is an absolute steal at the rates charged.

You might want to try to book through a local agent; they often have access to specials aimed at the local market which you wouldn't be able to access directly. I don't know how rigorously they look to enforce the 'locals only' rule on these packages...maybe others can chime in, or speak with an agent; they'll guide you on the ins and outs.

Mosetlha in Madikwe, Shindzela in the Timbavati and Gomo Gomo in the Klaserie are the most affordable lodges that offer a genuine B5 safari experience in a large national park.

Johan

Just back with my family from southern Africa, and I want to thank Johan and others here for giving me great advice for my trip.

Kruger was truly amazing, and it is insanely easy -- and relatively inexpensive -- to do it yourself. Honestly, anyone paying money (big money, of course) for someone to ESCORT them on safari is frittering that money away.

How many different lodges did you stay for the week? Does it make sense to change lodge frequently or better to stay at the same place?

How many different lodges did you stay for the week? Does it make sense to change lodge frequently or better to stay at the same place?Depends.

If by lodges you mean the rest camps in the Kruger National Park, then you need to change every couple of nights if you want to stand a chance of seeing more than a small part of the park. You are looking at ±20,000 km², that's about the size of Israel.

If you are referring to private game lodges then I would not recommend changing frequently, if only to minimize the time spent traveling, packing and unpacking, etc. Two or three nights each at two or three lodges should be about right for the average visitor, provided you select right combination of lodges.

Johan

How many different lodges did you stay for the week? Does it make sense to change lodge frequently or better to stay at the same place?

We just came back from Kruger, quick 10 day trip on the $550 DCA-JNB AC/SA airfare deal. Its incredibly easy to do on your own, and a safari would be a waste of money.

Arrive JNB 8am - rented car - better roads than in north america - and in less than 4 hours, we were at Pestana Lodge just outside Melalane gate to relax for first night, before going into the park the next day.

Booked 1 night at Skukuza in a great fixed tent ($40) and two nights at Satara cottage ($90).... Spent the next 3 days driving around - extremely easy, and the fact you are on your own schedule cant be beat.

Took an prganized AM game drive from Satara ($20) and saw what we were missing (lions+leopard)

Left Satara at 8am, got back to JNB airport at 2pm.

While Kruger didnt even come close to my visits in Etosha, Chobe and Serengeti - it is an easy and very inexpensive alternative, especially for a first time Africa visitor.

How many different lodges did you stay for the week? Does it make sense to change lodge frequently or better to stay at the same place?

You definitely want to move around a bit to see everything if you're staying at the gov't lodges in Kruger. There is no logical reason to "backtrack" from one area to another, and it's pleasant to experience different camp set-ups. We went from south to north in June. Every part had something different to offer.

Why did you like Etosha more? I thought Kruger had much more to offer.


While Kruger didnt even come close to my visits in Etosha, Chobe and Serengeti - it is an easy and very inexpensive alternative, especially for a first time Africa visitor.

Why did you like Etosha more? I thought Kruger had much more to offer.

The quantity of wildlife for sure in the park. The campsite had nighttime viewing balcony of a water hole, where you could just see a parade of animals coming in to drink after dark.

Kruger is just 'easier' to get to.

The quantity of wildlife for sure in the park. The wildlife density (large mammal biomass per hectare) in Kruger is roughly 10 times higher than in Etosha, although that obviously varies from species to species.

It may at times be easier to see animals in Etosha, e.g. at the end of the dry season when they congegrate at waterholes. Etosha is also more open (at least in the sections tourists have access to), which also helps. On the other hand, it is quite possible to drive right through Etosha from west to east, including the areas closed to tourists, and not see more than one elephant or so.

Johan

The wildlife density (large mammal biomass per hectare) in Kruger is roughly 10 times higher than in Etosha, although that obviously varies from species to species.

It may at times be easier to see animals in Etosha, e.g. at the end of the dry season when they congegrate at waterholes. Etosha is also more open (at least in the sections tourists have access to), which also helps. On the other hand, it is quite possible to drive right through Etosha from west to east, including the areas closed to tourists, and not see more than one elephant or so.

Johan

Interesting. I'm headed back to South Africa in November (award tickets to JNB), and I was considering doing Namibia and, in partcular, Etosha. BA (Comair) flies to Windhoek, but since they don't seem to load any award seats (it would be a steal in Avios at 4500 miles each way), I was leaning to doing Cape Town and the Garden Route (I've never been to either). Too soon, perhaps, to return to Kruger. :)

So if you like Kruger, is it worth the effort (and money) to get to Etosha?

need to check also the right season time ! I plan to go in south africa too in the mid-year, but before, I'm adjusting my booking time with the season calendar (I use sunpreview.com website for that).

Short & sweet.

You want to see the Big 5 quickly and up close.......Sabi Sands. Plenty of one on one with Leopards, Rhino's, etc. Not many, but you will see them and "up close".

You want to take a chance to see Rhino/Leopard, almost guaranteed the other 3 and many, many more. See 10's of thousand of wilde, zebra, etc. Go Tz and then go Kenya. (did both 15 years apart) and then Sabi to see Rhino which we only saw 1 in Kenya in 1990.

So - SA - All big 5 but not many and not many of other animals.
Tz & Kenya - Thousands of different animals, all at one time (the migration - did it both times)

So my suggestion: Do a Tz vacation first and see the masses. Then Sabi and see them up close.

Just MHO.

This is the only time of year we can all get away as a family, but from what I've read on this thread, it may not be the best time of year. Any suggestions for us? First time to Africa.

I would recommend "Elephant Plains" safari lodge in Kruger for a great experience. It is frequented by many South Africans for its value and understated but classy feel. My wife and I went there for four days on our honeymoon and it was top quality all the way around. If you want a good value, with quality but not opulence, and great up close game viewing, Elephant Plains is a great choice. Many of the other people staying were from Capetown and other areas south of there and said they come once a year they love it so much. Another awesome place we stayed while transiting toward Mozambique was a lodge in the mountains called "Blue Mountain Lodge" in Kiepersol. What a fabulous place.....it was like being transported back in time. The service by "colonel" was equal to 5 star service at a fine European restaurant.

I would recommend "Elephant Plains" safari lodge in Kruger for a great experience. It is frequented by many South Africans for its value and understated but classy feel. My wife and I went there for four days on our honeymoon and it was top quality all the way around. If you want a good value, with quality but not opulence, and great up close game viewing, Elephant Plains is a great choice. Many of the other people staying were from Capetown and other areas south of there and said they come once a year they love it so much. Another awesome place we stayed while transiting toward Mozambique was a lodge in the mountains called "Blue Mountain Lodge" in Kiepersol. What a fabulous place.....it was like being transported back in time. The service by "colonel" was equal to 5 star service at a fine European restaurant.

Just keep in mind that any "value" trip to Kruger means staying in the official national park camps, which offer basic (but comfortable) accomodations and simple restaurants (or, a better choice, a BBQ pit to prepare your own braai). These are a fraction of the cost of the private lodges and, while you'll probably get some disagreement on this, offer equal game viewing. Basically, you go to the private lodges to be pampered, not to see more animals.

Basically, you go to the private lodges to be pampered, not to see more animals.Exactly. The average private lodge will take you up close to the same two, four or seven lions on just about every game drive. Good chance they will be fast asleep too. Same with the local rhino, elephant herd, buffalo, etc.

A properly planned trip to Kruger itself will take you through a variety of stunning landscapes and afford you the opportunity to spot and see a great diversity of species (far more than at any private lodge) and in far greater numbers too. I've chalked up over 200 lions on a Kruger trip. The other week I got 23, which is not a particularly high number, but also buffalo way beyond counting, as well as plenty of elephant, decidedly rare antelope species such as eland, tsessebe and Lichtenstein's hartebees, and just about everything else. All this in March at the end of an exceptional rainy season, when the grass was high and the bush thick and lush.

Johan

I'm not fully aligned with Johan Rebel. There are locations/times when lodge has no advantage. In Kruger/Chobe, most National Parks, everyone is suppose to stay on the road. In Timbavati, Sabi sabi, thornybush, you'll be in private lodges. These guides will be able to leave the roadway and track the big 5. As a photographer, that makes all of the difference in the world.

The trick is finding reasonable price lodges. I have friends in SA that procure an entire (self cater) lodges for the week. This gets us great lodging in permanent buidlings, nice lodge, great guides. Yes, on a self cater, my SA friends must plan for meals, but we eat nice quality and the bottom line is pricing traveling this way makes it a smart choice to get into private reserves around Kruger.

In Kruger/Chobe, most National Parks, everyone is suppose to stay on the road.Actually, in the concession areas within the Kruger NP, as well as in the Makuleke CNP (which is a part of the KNP for environmental management purposes), off-roading is allowed, although the rules are stricter. If adhered to, that prevents the wholesale evironmental damage on sees in the contiguous private reserves.

Self-catering lodges are indeed an option, but there are not many of them, and they are only value for money if the group is sufficiently large.

Johan