Brazil - NYT: 36 Hours in São Paulo

A CITY of high-rises and traffic jams in a country of rain forests and beaches, São Paulo, South America’s biggest metropolis, is a Brazilian freak of nature, except without the nature. But the city’s flaws — high prices, street crime, incessant drizzle — are no match for its strengths — artistic and business energy, relentless night life. Sometimes, it even manages to turn its flaws into assets, as when celebrated architects take ugly concrete and create post-Brutalist masterpieces, like Isay Weinfeld’s sleek bookstore Livraria da Vila on Alameda Lorena. São Paulo’s 11 million-plus inhabitants do their part by infusing the din with contagious Brazilian energy; those flashing smiles and thumbs-up signs are among the few things the city shares with the rest of the vast country whose booming economy it anchors.

3 p.m.
1) GRIMY GLORY

The elite may snap up luxury apartments as far from the heart of the city as possible, but São Paulo’s historic center still bustles...Full article in the NYT Travel section here. (http://travel.nytimes.com/2011/03/13/travel/13hours-saopaulo.html)

Any comments/reactions from locals or frequent visitors? I've been to Brazil, but never spent much time in SP.

I live in Rio, but love São Paulo.

Rio is uncomparably better in terms of natural beauty, but São Paulo has a much more richer and diverse life due to its large populations of italian, japanese and several other immigrants, which maintain some of their traditions, specially culinary. As the city and the state are also much richer than Rio, its cultural life reflects it. Paradoxically, housing can be cheaper in São Paulo than in Rio . . .

Seth Kueger, that article's author (which, by the way, is the current NYT "Frugal Traveler", althought that article is not part of his regular "Frugal" series) has lived for some years at São Paulo and knows the city very well, besides being a very good travel writer.

If the particular activities he recommends at that article are of interest to you, Efrem, I can't judge without knowing your interests and how well do you speak/understand Portuguese. Also, I do think Mr. Seth age is at most 30 y.o. and this is reflected into his interests.

I, for myself, being older, and Brazilian, would say that:
- If you do speak/understand Portuguese, and like it, the theater scene is the best in Brazil
- Music scene is very good also, almost every genre is avaiable and well represented
- Very active nightlife, if you are on it
- Food is fantastic: Japanese, Lebanese, Italian, besides Brazilian Churrascarias, Feijoadas and other dishes
- I am a museum rat. There are some, but they are not world class
- Not much in terms of sightseeing (perhaps the old downtown and some ethnic neighborhoods)

But these are my opinions, based on my interests!

All in all, inasmuch as NYC, being a hurried, chaotic city, I think São Paulo is better explored at a leisurely pace, "against the grain", not at a 36h pace.

The football (soccer) museum is really quite interesting. Also some great restaurants. My particular favoriteis the Villa, has both traditional beef and seafood. I wouldn't wander around by myself though, areas can can real dicey, real quick.