South America - Culinary Capital of South America?

In your opinion, which is the culinary capital of South America? And what food is it well known for?

Will be visiting there for the first time in March '11.

Thanks!

In your opinion, which is the culinary capital of South America? And what food is it well known for?

Will be visiting there for the first time in March '11.

Thanks!

Lima Peru
Fish

Never been to South America, but everything I've heard on the subject seems to concur that Lima is the place to go for food.

Agree, Lima, Peru by a long shot.

Yet another vote for Lima. I can't wait to get back there in January

If you cannot make it to Lima try any Nobu anywhere. Nobu learned much of his craft in Lima and a good deal of his menu's are Lima-style. Lima has a delightful blend of Japanese and local influences that is really hard to beat.

I want to advocate Rio de Janeiro, which has some wonderful food. Nothing to match Lima, though. If you do not like seafood then you've an entirely new search to make.

Thanks everyone. I love seafood, so Lima seems a unanimous choice.

I trust all the Lima supporters have sampled the food in all the other large cities of S America?

I haven't been but I have heard the seafood in Santiago is very good.

I trust all the Lima supporters have sampled the food in all the other large cities of S America?

I haven't been but I have heard the seafood in Santiago is very good.

Fish and seafood in Chile can be very very good. But it is (generally) a simple cuisine.

Yes to HIDDY's question, almost monthly.
Peruvian seafood is generally prepared on a much higher gastronomic (and often eclectic) level that its neighbor to the South. The sheer variety of dishes and ingredients is also quite impressive.
Try a cevice in Santiago and then compare it to one served in Lima and you will know.

Lima is definitely up there and one of my favourites. However Buenos Aires offers a number of excellent restaurants as well. Much beyond meat. It should not be discarded. Another place that is up and coming is Bogota. Sao Paulo and Rio also have their bright spots but in general over rated and expensive.

One thing I can safely say is don't come to Buenos Aires for its fish or seafood cuisine. I shall have to catch a flight to Lima by the look of it. ^

Lima is the place for food in SA, no question, especially if you're after good seafood. Note, traditionally seafood is eaten at lunch, while it's still fresh (it having been caught that same morning). The "cebicherías" open around noon and, especially on the weekends, close as late as 5pm. So it's a relaxed affair.

Here are some suggestions for a good seafood lunch if you decide to go to Lima:

La Mar, on Av. La Mar in Miraflores. Cebichería of the famous chef and Peruvian cuisine ambassador Gastón Acurio.
Pescados Capitales, also on Av. La Mar a few blocks down from La Mar.
Taller de Cocina Los Cavenecia, in Surquillo near the main intersection of Av. Angamos & Av. Aviación. Hard to find, in a house with no sign out front, but worth the search.
Francesco, on the Malecón in Miraflores. Dated decor but excellent food.
Alfresco, in central Miraflores near Parque Kennedy.
Kapallaq, on Petit Thouars in Miraflores. Northern style seafood.
Segundo Muelle, a chain with outlets throughout Lima. Good food if not quite as upscale as the ones listed above.
Punta Sal, another good chain.
And if you want to slum it, head out to Av. Rosa Toro which connects Canadá and Javier Prado, just east of Av. San Luis. This street features a string of boisterous cebicherías with decent food and excellent prices. Best if you have a strong stomach though as cleanliness is not necessarily up to western standards.


There are also a lot of excellent dinner restaurants scattered throughout the upscale districts of Miraflores, San Isidro and San Borja. Ask around.

I agree that Lima is the Mecca for Foodies these days.... however, I think that three other cities in South America also have excellent highlights that a serious foodie should not miss out on.... these three other cities being:

Buenos Aires
Sao Paulo
Santiago de Chile

I'm surprised Gaucho did not add Rio de Janeiro. Two of the finest French restaurants anywhere are in Rio, led by Olympe with Claude Troisgros. There is no better pizza on the planet than one finds at Capriciossa, and it is hard to beat No Mangue for the spicy seafood concoctions of the northeast.

They are all expensive (our favorite pizza is US$55 at current rates), as are those of Sao Paulo, because the Real is so very strong. Moscow, long famed for high prices and a frequent destination for me, now is cheaper than Brazil. Five years ago with the US$ worth four Reais Brazil was very cheap for the rest of the world. Now we go to NYC because it is cheap.

So if money is an issue the red meat and delightful wines of BA coupled with the seafood of Lima and both in Santiago beat anything in Brazil for value. Price independent, we have some wonderful choices.

I'm surprised Gaucho did not add Rio de Janeiro. Two of the finest French restaurants anywhere are in Rio, led by Olympe with Claude Troisgros. There is no better pizza on the planet than one finds at Capriciossa, and it is hard to beat No Mangue for the spicy seafood concoctions of the northeast.

They are all expensive (our favorite pizza is US$55 at current rates), as are those of Sao Paulo, because the Real is so very strong. Moscow, long famed for high prices and a frequent destination for me, now is cheaper than Brazil. Five years ago with the US$ worth four Reais Brazil was very cheap for the rest of the world. Now we go to NYC because it is cheap.

So if money is an issue the red meat and delightful wines of BA coupled with the seafood of Lima and both in Santiago beat anything in Brazil for value. Price independent, we have some wonderful choices.

Yes... Im an idiot, I completetly forgot Rio.... thank you for correcting my mistake JBCarioca.

Troisgros was indeed outstanding... didnt get to Olympe last time I was in town with my wife. On the subject of Rio Restaurants, one place that I never miss when in Rio is Gero. While not in the same league as Troisgros, I think Gero is a very good option with a well balanced model of food quality, service and ambiance... and its not as high-up in terms of price.

I always enjoy Gero, no question. In Rio I try to stay to carioca places rather than transplanted Paulista's :) Despite that I suspect we should add one or two such as Rascal, maybe the best buffewt-style restaurant one might find (about a dozen or so locations between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro). The list could go one for some time.

if value is a factor still it is Lima and Buenos Aires, zero question about that.

I keep hearing Sao Paulo is a culinary mecca. It's supposed to have excellent Japanese, Middle Eastern and Italian food. I shall find out in December when I go there and sample the local places.

I'm very familiar with Peruvian food and it is not surprising to see that it is the best known South American cuisine here in the USA, so I would expect LIM to attract a few foodies.

I keep hearing Sao Paulo is a culinary mecca. It's supposed to have excellent Japanese, Middle Eastern and Italian food. I shall find out in December when I go there and sample the local places.

I'm very familiar with Peruvian food and it is not surprising to see that it is the best known South American cuisine here in the USA, so I would expect LIM to attract a few foodies.

Sp does have tons of fine examples of all three.

When you choose Japanese please remember that Brazilians love cheese, especially Philadelphia Cream Cheese (Brazil must consume more than all other countries combined, or so it seems to me) so a favorite 'sushi' choice is "Hot Philadelphia", and many other "sushi" choices also have cheese. If you like such things these are quite good. There are also a fair number of more traditional Japanese choices and there are sushi bars everywhere. There are almost none of the Japanese curry houses, katsu palaces or Japanese regional food that one might find in other Japanese cities. Still, with the largest Japanese population of any city other than Tokyo and Osaka SP has many many options for Japanese cuisine.

Arab restaurants are ubiquitous for similar reasons. Most Brazilians do not perceive the distinctions but SP is full of excellent permutations of foods of the Levant. The Jerusalem-style is usually clear by the presence of such fine choices as "Berinjela Israelense" of eggplant/aubergine Jerusalem style. ones with that one the menu almost always have falafel in the Jerusalem style also.

Italian restaurants come in every variety, but most have a strong Brazilian influence. There is a very good chain of buffet-style Italian restaurants called Rascal (they're in Rio also), wonderful Pizzerias (Braz, for example, is also in Rio too), and fantastic high end Italian restaurants too. Prices for these places tend to be high but the quality is superb too. Pizza at the best places will be US$30 or more for an individual pizza. Don't complain about the price uintil you try them and don not go to the cheap ones. If you're in Rio the best is Capricciosa, but in SP I go for Braz. If your expenses know no limit the restaurants of the Fasano group are all quite superb.

As other parts of this and other threads indicate. SP and Rio have many superb restaurants. the problem is price because the good ones are really very expensive. One way to have excellence at a more modest price is "comida a quilo" (food by the kilo) where you choose from a buffet and pay by weight. Several of these have extremely good choices from all three of your ethnic preferences. I am more knowledgable about Rio but the SP options are even broader than those of Rio.

Have a wonderful time.

Thanks jbcarioca for your insightful comments and advice.

Talk about Brazilian's love for cream cheese, do they also like to eat it with guava or quince paste for dessert? I have come across these at the supermarkets in Miami and was wondering if this is something that only Cubans do or it extends to other places in Latin America.

Thanks jbcarioca for your insightful comments and advice.

Talk about Brazilian's love for cream cheese, do they also like to eat it with guava or quince paste for dessert? I have come across these at the supermarkets in Miami and was wondering if this is something that only Cubans do or it extends to other places in Latin America.

With the guava (goiaba) sweet, called goiabada, Brazilians usually use a cheese called Queijo de Minas (cheese of mines- referring to Brazil 4th largest state, Minas gerais or General Mines) that is a fresh cheese beloved by almost all Brazilians. I personally detest it because it is too sweet for me; were I to admit that publicly I'd probably lose my passport ;). Any Brazilian restaurant usually will have goiabada on the menu. It is always available at the house of my mother-in-law or any other self-respecting Minero (person from Minas) house.

Goiabada or the equivalent seems to be found anywhere a guava can grow. I've found it in India, Southeast Asia, all over middle and South America and Western Africa too.

Obviously I have answered with far too much information.

I always enjoy Gero, no question.


Considering the experience and what I assume are deep pockets of the family behind Gero... I wish a member of the family would choose to move to EZE and open a Gero here in Buenos Aires.... I think the concept would do very well here if they picked the right spot and are ready to weather the first 24 months until their regular clientelle stabilizes... :)

The above dessert jbcarioca mentions is very popular in Argentina, but under a derivative version called Postre Vigilante... which is basically fresh cheese with quince jam, or sweet potato jam. Its also called Fresco y Dulce, or Fresco y Batata... :D

If the cheeese is high quality Quartirolo... and if the jam is delicatessen quality and not mass made junk full of sugar, this can be a gourmet experience... ;)

Considering the experience and what I assume are deep pockets of the family behind Gero... I wish a member of the family would choose to move to EZE and open a Gero here in Buenos Aires.... I think the concept would do very well here if they picked the right spot and are ready to weather the first 24 months until their regular clientelle stabilizes... :)

They are opening a Hotel Fasano in Punta del Este so they are becoming closerhttp://www.fasano.com.br/site_hoteis_en.php

You might contact them and pitch. They're suckers for good wine and people who really know the subject, though, as Paulistas, they're wildly prejudiced in favor of Italian wines. :)

Lima is a culinary tour destination. I hate sea food and still find plenty to eat here. There are plenty of other traditional Peruvian dishes for example; based on chicken (aji de gallina), steak (lomo saltado), potatoes, (papa a la huancaina) as well as many excellent Italian, Oriental and elegant fusion restaurants.

...Try the fabulous "Astrid & Gastón" in the heart of Miraflores. It belongs to awarded peruvian chef Gastón Acurio and his wife Astrid. Mor info: http://www.astridygaston.com/

I'm getting nostalgic about food and Lima...
I recommend checking out LivingInPeru.com's feature articles for information in English about some great places...

They have a Reader's Top 20 choices list (http://www.livinginperu.com/gastronomy/top-food), a Dining Directory (http://www.livinginperu.com/dir/dining) and a long list of Feature Articles (http://www.livinginperu.com/gastronomy/features--1-4).

It depends on what you want to eat. Of course fish would be in Lima, and some japanese and arab food in Sao Paulo are the best of the region. If you're looking for some good steak or even a good italian food and pizza this place is Buenos Aires.
It has to be this way... Im not willing to have a great Paella in Rome and let alone a good pasta in Spain!
Cheers

It has to be this way...

Does it really :confused:
Lima (as has been hinted to earlier in this thread) is much more than "fish". It's like saying that Japan is "fish". It's much more than that....and so is Rome and so is Spain.....now, the OP's question was: Culinary Capital of South America? .....and at this moment, I think it is safe to say: Lima.

Does it really :confused:
Lima (as has been hinted to earlier in this thread) is much more than "fish". It's like saying that Japan is "fish". It's much more than that....and so is Rome and so is Spain.....now, the OP's question was: Culinary Capital of South America? .....and at this moment, I think it is safe to say: Lima.

How sad that there are no votes for Belo. Oh, well, you have Aécio, and he's better than some restaurant.

There still is no better pizza than in Capricciosa, better than any I've had in Italy.

Lima has wonderful Italian and Japanese. The historical prejudice does not work. So, for that matter does SP and Rio, not to mention BA.

So, I still have trouble accepting Lima as THE culinary capital, although I do agree it is wonderful. How can a place without Moqueca or Feijoada be THE capital for the continent, anyway?

Aecio is said to spend more time in Rio than in BH, so perhaps there is something he knows that others don't?......
I don't disagree with you that Rio, SP and BUE has wonderful restaurants and regional dishes, but the OP question was different.
However, as much as we both like Rio for each our own personal reasons, I do think that it still has some ways to go to compete for title of "culinary capital of South America".

Yes, of course we still must be honest and support Lima for that title.

Lots of FTers say Lima, and you say you like seafood so thats a good place. Fine dining though is not common. Sao Paulo is without a doubt the place to get international quality cuisine. Buenos Aires is the capital of beef eating with lots of amazing dining options but its all about meat there. There is very little creativity in Argentinian food though as a "meat and potatoes" aficionado, Bs. As. is my favorite. Dinner is rarely started before 10pm there. Argentinian restaurant staff will laugh at you if you come in for dinner at 7pm.

Lots of FTers say Lima, and you say you like seafood so thats a good place. Fine dining though is not common. Sao Paulo is without a doubt the place to get international quality cuisine. Buenos Aires is the capital of beef eating with lots of amazing dining options but its all about meat there. There is very little creativity in Argentinian food though as a "meat and potatoes" aficionado, Bs. As. is my favorite. Dinner is rarely started before 10pm there. Argentinian restaurant staff will laugh at you if you come in for dinner at 7pm.

That seems a trifle harsh to me. There are numerous very fine restaurants in Lima, SP, BA and Rio. Being larger Sp does indeed have more, but better... I don't think so. The 'capital' question might be ambiguous, but Lima has much more than seafood, Japanese-Peruvian delicacies and ceviche.

The finest tamale in the world can be had there IMHO. Maybe the best chicken chain in the world, Pardo's http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g294316-d1082939-r65414424-Pardo_s_Chicken-Lima.html is based in Lima (they have an outlet in Coral Gables, FL too. The list can go on for some time.

I am prejudiced in favor of Rio, of course, because we have dozens of very fine places here, but no other place has quite the flavor of Lima these days.

Assuming that any of us have confidence in French President Sarkozy, his chef Maurice Alexis gave an interview with Veja, the most popular Brazilian newsmagazine, this week.

My translation:
Veja: "do you know brazilian cuisine?"
Alexis: " ... the pizza of São Paulo (better than the Italians), feijoada, a present from God..."

He is thinking clearly, although many would argue that Capricciosa in Rio de Janeiro has the single best pizza in the world. Such São Paulo classics as Rascal and Braz certainly argue for his point and both of them have locations in Rio also.

Nothing can match the Italian cuisine to be found in São Paulo, certainly not Lima, so in that limited arena Lima cannot win. :)

He is thinking clearly, although many would argue that Capricciosa in Rio de Janeiro has the single best pizza in the world.I don't know if it's the best in the world, but it's definitely one of the most expensive.

I do agree that you can find great pizza places in RIO and SAO. I've been eating at Capricciosa and Braz and they have excellent pizzas... but "best pizza in the world" is maybe exagerated. I don't think it's comparable to Napoli or Buenos Aires. But anyway... gostos sao gostos!
I will not argue about feijoada :) I had great ones all over Brasil.

Lots of FTers say Lima, and you say you like seafood so thats a good place. Fine dining though is not common. Sao Paulo is without a doubt the place to get international quality cuisine. Buenos Aires is the capital of beef eating with lots of amazing dining options but its all about meat there. There is very little creativity in Argentinian food though as a "meat and potatoes" aficionado, Bs. As. is my favorite. Dinner is rarely started before 10pm there. Argentinian restaurant staff will laugh at you if you come in for dinner at 7pm.

Sorry but its obvious that you have not been to the right places in Buenos Aires...

Yes, EZE is the Carnivore Capital of the World, but if you want creative fusion you can get it in Italian, French, Japanese-Peruvian and other versions.... again, you have to tell us what you enjoy and the regulars over on the Argentina forums will be glad to assist you.

Cheers,
Gaucho100K

The 'capital' question might be ambiguous, but Lima has much more than seafood, Japanese-Peruvian delicacies and ceviche.

Yes! They have cuy.... :cool:

I think Buenos Aires has a great variety of restaurants and options; it is a misconception that it is all about meat.
I had one of the best traditional French meals in Buenos Aires - at the level of any 2-3 starred Michelin star restaurant in Paris, Lyon or anywhere else in the world.

Personally:

Beef: BUENOS AIRES!!!!!!

Seafood: Valparaiso, Chile

Guess it's all a matter of personal taste -----------

What about Bogota? Anything "stand-out" there?