Spain/Portugal/Gibraltar - Madrid tapas and casual dining options

Have searched, and no there does not seem to be a thread specifically on this topic -- high time there was I'd say! Will be there last week of October for the first time, so want to ask for recommendations for places within easy walking distance from the museum district. Any favorites, hidden gems, new entries etc.? Post it here, I'm sure there is a LOT of excellent feedback to be had and also many interested readers here; plenty of listings in the travel guides but much nicer to hear some personal thoughts based on recent experience. Thanks!

I've always wanted to get back to Spain/Madrid. I guess I'll enjoy the free ride to that Travel&Dining: Destination >> The World regional forum. :D

Best regards,

William R. Sanders
Online Guest Feedback Coordinator
Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide

guest.forum@starwoodhotels.com

For tapas, just peek in to any tapas bar and use your judgment. I was never disappointed.

For casual but nice, check out Restaurante Bazaar in Chueca. It's near the Chueca metro stop.

C/ San Marcos, 35
28004 Madrid, Spain
915 233 905
http://www.restaurantbazaar.com/

There is a TON of useful information on eating in Madrid at www.chowhound.com.

To state only the most obvious. Yes, most bars serve acceptable-to-excellent tapas. If you are staying near the museums, Calle Huertas is a good place to start - but many of those bars are also music clubs, and this is their emphasis.

For nouvelles tapas head to Cava Baja, near the Plaza Mayor. You have many, many more but these are good:

Posada de la Villa for Jamón, Croquetas -- this is fancier than the average tapas bar and is actually a good restaurant, but if you go in the door and turn to the left, there is a bar area that will serve you tapas.

Conspiradores for Pimientos rellenos

Taberna Txakoli for a wide variety of excellent tapas

Taberna Tempranillo, a wine bar with a wide range of Spanish labels, specializing in cured meats (pork).

As for dinner -- if it is your first visit to Madrid you might like Botín. Yes it is touristy, but the food is actually quite good, and the atmosphere is unbeatable. It is the oldest restaurant in Madrid (see the last chapter of The Sun Also Rises) and opens at 8 pm (an advantage).

¡Que aproveche! :)

I just came back from 2 weeks in Spain with the family. Our favorite place to eat was the Mercado de San Miguel. They had a mix of tapas and other food choices. It is right next to the Plaza Mayor. There was a seafood stand right in back of the large fruit stand that had some amazing choices.

Enjoy

Right, Ghia -- Thanks for reminding me. This is a lovely, turn of the century market that has been completely refurbished and re-done. It is quite near the Plaza Mayor and Cava Baja so a "tapas and dinner run" should be logistically easy. Good choice! ^

Thank you everyone for those initial ideas -- enough to keep one nourished for 2-3 days for starters! There are some well-known names behind my hotel -- Dolores and Los Gatos I think -- but I know there are tons of others everywhere. Botin does sound nice for a kind of splurgy meal just once. I have heard of chowhound but never peeked in, will do that for sure.

Just managed a peek into chowhound -- fabulous resource! Is this the foodie site par excellence in the world today?

El Tigre! Standing room only, dirt cheap (free tapas with the order of any drink, though go ahead and order more off the menu for the freshest, best selection) and some of my favorite tapas from my trip to Madrid this past summer (I went three times).

El Tigre huh? Thanks for the idea, where is it and what kind of menu?

I cannot find a menu online (didn't think there would be), but you must order the croquettas and huevos revueltos con morcilla (scrambled eggs with black sausage).

Address and short review here: http://mapmagazine.com/el-tigre-tapas-bar/

Neighborhood: Chueca

I'll arrive in Madrid on 27 Oct. First time there. Will be for business but have the weekend before returning on 3 Nov. Looks like some great suggestions! Thanks!

Okay YES El Tigre looks like an awesome deal and I will try to make my way there. And yes the huevos revueltos sound like just the ticket, together with a croqueta or two of course...

As for Mercato San Miguel, I keep seeing mentions of it; but when is it open? Is it a better bet daytime or evenings or both?

As for Mercato San Miguel, I keep seeing mentions of it; but when is it open? Is it a better bet daytime or evenings or both?


It opens up mid morning but does not pick up until lunch time. Tourist tend to keep it busy until 10 PM. After that I understand it tends to be a hangout for the locals.

thanks ghia -- any special treats there you like most, and is it your favorite mercado or maybe there are some others you like just as well...

thanks ghia -- any special treats there you like most, and is it your favorite mercado or maybe there are some others you like just as well...

As mentioned previously there is a nice fruitstand in the front corner of the building. Behind that is a place with seafood tapas that had one I really liked which was bruschetta with mussels. There is also a sandwhich stand towards the middle that had good jamon (not quite as good as Vienna Cafe in Barcelona).

In the back was a stand that had oysters that looked amazing. I only wish I had the time to hang out and try some but having a 4 year and 20 month old with me prevented that. If you like oysters and have a chance to try them please report back.

Thanks so much ghia, that is just the kind of specific info that means the most. Oysters in Madrid were not quite on my radar but they are now, and maybe I can find your exact bruschetta too, sounds heavenly, thanks again!

My biggest problem I think is that there is just SOOOO much to try in Madrid, no matter how many days you have there you will leave some serious stones un-turned; but then, you do have to try, right? And anything not done is the best excuse to go back again another time...

It's not classic/traditional, nor is it cheap, but it is near the museum district and has some great new wave tapas, including a few examples of the "molecular gastronomy" made famous at El Bulli. The "21st Century Tortilla de Patata" (potato omelette) is pretty amazing.

Estado Puro
http://www.tapasenestadopuro.com/

For a less-traditional/classic (but still delicious) take, try Estado Puro - right on Paseo del Prado in the museum area, in the ground floor of the NH Paseo del Prado Hotel.

They specialize in modern versions of classic tapas, including some from the "molecular gastronomy" genre made famous at El Bulli. The "Tortilla Siglo XXI" (21st century tortilla de patata (Spanish potato omelette)) is both great food and an intriguing take on a Spanish classic.

http://www.tapasenestadopuro.com/

Thanks a lot for that Michael -- yes we can easily walk there and will try to do so! My god what choices, so little time!

Actually this place I think was reviewed recently in the New York Times -- but yours is the first actual personal review I've seen on any board, sounds like you were quite impressed, thanks again for the advice.

Thanks a lot for that Michael -- yes we can easily walk there and will try to do so! My god what choices, so little time!

Actually this place I think was reviewed recently in the New York Times -- but yours is the first actual personal review I've seen on any board, sounds like you were quite impressed, thanks again for the advice.
Re: Estado Puro, I don't want to raise your expectations too high!

We went several months ago - it was either in December 2009 or March 2010. It was certainly good, though a bit uneven - some of the dishes were great, others were no better than what you can get at a more downscale (and much cheaper) bar. There were some standout dishes -- like the tortilla -- but in the case of other dishes, I think it's hard to improve on the original (since average, everyday tapas are already so good). But it came to mind because it's in the area you're looking for and it's a different (but still quite Spanish) twist on tapas.

In case you're in the Chueca neighborhood, another great but more traditional tapas place (except for the fact that they have Pilsner Urquell, instead of Mahou etc on tap) is La Ardosa (c/ Colon 13). Excellent tortilla (quantities limited, they often run out by lunchtime), croquetas, and more.

http://www.laardosa.com/

For tapas, just peek in to any tapas bar and use your judgment. I was never disappointed.

For casual but nice, check out Restaurante Bazaar in Chueca. It's near the Chueca metro stop.

C/ San Marcos, 35
28004 Madrid, Spain
915 233 905
http://www.restaurantbazaar.com/

One of my favourites. But know that they do not take reservations and waits can be very long if you get there around normal dining time of 10:30. Go a little earlier, around 9:30, if you don't want to wait

Taberna del Alabardero
PLAZA ORIENTE 2, MADRID, MADRID 28013 (near the palacio real)
902 488 300

is also quite good for dinner.

Thank you again for this latest advice; yes I will definitely be in and around Chueca at least one full day, and Bazaar looks terrific; have seen it reviewed elsewhere but your personal endorsements tilt the scales, it's definitely on our short list now. The other places don't sound familiar, but the little Chueca bodega sounds like just the ticket for a snack etc., and totally off the typical tourist radaar which is what one wants to find sometimes.

Here's another specific question: I realize Madrid is not the epicenter for paella, but we may want to have it one night; any personal recommendations from the handful of paella places I see listed? El Ventorillo or La Baracca or La Reina etc.?

Well just a small update from home prior to departure: it seems that Gala has some horrible reviews, while reviews of La Reina range from dreadful to sublime; who is right I cannot judge. Many negative reviews seem to dwell on excessive saltiness, so I am wondering, is salty just an intrinsic characteristic of the dish, one needs to accept it maybe. Come on people, I know for sure there are opinions and guidance here, so let's not be shy, please post them here -- I leave in 6 days...

I still say you HAVE to try El Tigre (even if mid bar-hopping). You won't be disappointed, and your wallet will thank you!

Thanks DLNYC, El Tigre is definitely on the radar screen, do not worry about that. However for an actual sit-down meal one day, we are going to want some paella...

I ate at Gala a number of years ago (2002, I think) and was not impressed. I've rarely had paella at restaurants when in Spain -- it's more something that I've had at people's homes etc. In any case, Madrid (as you already pointed out) is not really paella territory.

But since I'm curious as well for my next trip, I did a quick search; results suggest that El Ventorrillo Murciano might be good, as it's recommended on several local pages, and on Chowhound by a locally-based expert. A few other places are mentioned on the same lists.

http://madrid.lanetro.com/tops/la-mejor-paella-800415
http://www.destinoespana.com/2009/07/02/guia-para-comer-una-buena-paella-en-madrid/
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/268313

Please do report back on your experiences.

First, there are many, many different types of paella, from land-based (rabbit, chicken and artichokes) to the more standard "paella valenciana" with shellfish and often squid.

If the restaurant uses some of the squid's ink to flavour and colour the rice -- yes, the ink is salty. But I have not found the many paellas I have had in many spots over the years to be too salty.

In Madrid may I suggest you consider an outsider, a bit off the beaten track:

Retaurante Balear
C/ Sagunto, 18
28010 Madrid
914 479 115

It is on a back street near Metro stop Iglesia (on the #1 line direct from Sol and Gran Via). Many varieties of paella, including some fairly original dishes. Not overly expensive, and good service, especially if you arrive early.

¡Que aproveche!

Thanks Michael and spainflyer, those are all the leads anyone could ask for! Including some I had not heard of before, Balear for one; it is listed on trip advisor, but with no reviews. Anyow the 2 web sites Michael linked to must surely include all the major resources, so I'm pretty confident we'll end up at one of them; will ask advice locally too when we are there; and yes you may be sure I will report back here, it's the least I can do!

Thanks DLNYC, El Tigre is definitely on the radar screen, do not worry about that. However for an actual sit-down meal one day, we are going to want some paella...

Good! I was just checking. As you can see, I'm VERY adamant about YOUR travel plans ;)

Good! I was just checking. As you can see, I'm VERY adamant about YOUR travel plans ;)

Well excellent, it's heartening to know someone is looking after me, and can assume you really, really, really do like that joint. So let's see, in order to kind of beat the massive crowd that often seems to mob it, is it good to go a little earlier than normal then, maybe 8:30 p.m. or even afternoon? Is it open 7 days? Is there a dining room attached or only stand-up in the bar? You can see how serious I am about it now!

Okay just back and here's a little report.

Walked by El Tigre but could not stop in as we were due for our reservation at La Baracca -- yes I could see it was totally hopping, it is on my list for next time and now I now exactly where it is!

La Baracca itself was very nice, the seafood paella tasty if a little lacking in the more costly prawns etc., I think you need to order one of the costlier versions with specifically extra mariscos and langoustines if you want that -- we saw it served at the next table. Service was kindly but dragged quite a bit, probably because we were there for the first seating at 8:30 and they filled the entire place all at one time. Reservations obligatory; they turned away a lot of people who did not have them, every table had been booked. The physical spaces were very charming and atmospheric; we all would gladly return another day.

We felt our best meal overall was at Cruz Blanca just behind the Westin; small basement dining room, sweet service and all the other diners seemed to be savvy locals enjoying themselves -- as turistas ourselves, it's so reassuring not to be totally surrounded by more of same. The food was marvelous, especially the tenderest pulpo and feshest gambas imaginable.

Also enjoyed a terrific seafood-centric but very casual dinner at Maceiras on Huertas; cozy tavern atmosphere (packed -- show up when they open at around 8:30 to get one of the tiny tables); the friendliest service, and everything tasty.

And we also found a perfect lunch spot at the Cafe de las Bellas Artes up behind the Thyssen; you pay a bit more to sit at the outside tables, but for us the inside Belle-Epoque dining room was just the ticket. Nice menu, daily specials etc., you can eat as lightly or heavily as you wish.

DOCC behind the Westin also ideal for fresh sandwiches and other snacks; daytime only it seemed. My last night there I was alone and ended up at La Trucha just off Pl. Santa Ana: ideal. They were quite nice to me as a solo diner, had a table in their tiny dining room (there are also nice outdoor tables under an awning); you can eat quite reasonably but very well there, loved the smoked fish salad and the fish soup as well as some tapas. I know this area is supposed to be all touristy around Santa Ana; but that does not mean those places are bad; indeed, they are packed with locals right alongside the tourists. The other streets behind the Westin are packed with appealing little places also, the Artemisia is a very nice, cheap, and good vegetarian one; too many others there I did not have time to try.

Bottom line: is it possible to eat badly in Madrid? Not in our experience, can hardly wait to go back!!