Luxury Hotels - MO Dhara Dhevi vs. FS - Chiang Mai

Hello, first post here.

My husband and I are going to Thailand for 12 nights -- 19 Dec - 2 Jan. We are spending 5 nights in Chiang Mai. We booked a Grand Deluxe Villa with plunge pool at the MO Dhara Dhevi. We are slightly annoyed with the MO for various reasons. None especially terrible, but enough that we are considering switching to a Pool Villa at FS Chiang Mai.

Did a search and I couldn't find any recent reviews for MO and FS on this forum. Can anyone give us an idea of how these two resorts compare to each other and especially how the two room classes compare to each other? We obviously chose the MO because we felt it would be a better fit for us, but at this point, we may want to switch. Any thoughts/guidance? Thank you!

Great forum, by-the-way. This is the kind of information we have been looking for quite awhile.

This is a tricky one. If you do a search you will find a few threads. Many people swear by the FS. In contrast, we have been to the MO twice and we'd probably say its our favourite hotel anywhere. (There are things to dislike about it, but it has all we want and the villas are ludicrously huge.) We didn't even think about trying the FS when we went back to CM two years after our first visit, which is very unlike us.

The FS is older, the MO is relatively new. The MO is on the edge of CM, the FS is further out. The FS has a renowned cooking school.

Why not try both? 5 nights in CM is a l-o-n-g time anyway for what is fundamentally a small crazy scruffy town with a useless market selling tourist tat although it has some good art and antique places. Do a 3 / 2 split between the two resorts - say 3 nights at the MO because you can use it as a base to hop in and out of the town, and then 2 nights at the FS without leaving the premises.

Note that if you have a Plat or Centurion Amex you can book the MO through the Fine Hotels & Resorts programme and get an upgrade to an even more ludicrously big villa (we had a piano in ours last time!) and some nice freebies. A Virtuoso travel agent like DavidO who posts on here can certainly get you a better FS package than you can by booking direct and can probably do the same at the MO as well.

EDITED TO ADD:
Virtuoso benefits at FS CM:
One-category upgrade based on availability at time of check-in
Welcome note at check-in acknowledging travel agency/agent and amenities being extended
Daily full American breakfast for two through In-Room Dining or in the hotel restaurant (including buffets)
US$100 Spa Credit once during stay (does not apply to spa products)

Amex FHR benefits at MO CM:
A room upgrade when available, upon check-in.
Daily continental breakfast for up to two people.
Guaranteed four o'clock p.m. late check-out.
A complimentary lunch for up to two people per room, excluding alcohol, taxes and gratuities, once during your stay.

Amex FHR benefits at FS CM:
A room upgrade when available, upon check-in.
Daily continental breakfast for up to two people.
Guaranteed four o'clock p.m. late check-out.
A 50-minute complimentary massage for up to two people per room, once during your stay.

This is a tricky one. If you do a search you will find a few threads. Many people swear by the FS. In contrast, we have been to the MO twice and we'd probably say its our favourite hotel anywhere. (There are things to dislike about it, but it has all we want and the villas are ludicrously huge.) We didn't even think about trying the FS when we went back to CM two years after our first visit, which is very unlike us.

The FS is older, the MO is relatively new. The MO is on the edge of CM, the FS is further out. The FS has a renowned cooking school.

Why not try both? 5 nights in CM is a l-o-n-g time anyway for what is fundamentally a small crazy scruffy town with a useless market selling tourist tat although it has some good art and antique places. Do a 3 / 2 split between the two resorts - say 3 nights at the MO because you can use it as a base to hop in and out of the town, and then 2 nights at the FS without leaving the premises.

Note that if you have a Plat or Centurion Amex you can book the MO through the Fine Hotels & Resorts programme and get an upgrade to an even more ludicrously big villa (we had a piano in ours last time!) and some nice freebies. A Virtuoso travel agent like DavidO who posts on here can certainly get you a better FS package than you can by booking direct and can probably do the same at the MO as well.

EDITED TO ADD:
Virtuoso benefits at FS CM:
One-category upgrade based on availability at time of check-in
Welcome note at check-in acknowledging travel agency/agent and amenities being extended
Daily full American breakfast for two through In-Room Dining or in the hotel restaurant (including buffets)
US$100 Spa Credit once during stay (does not apply to spa products)

Amex FHR benefits at MO CM:
A room upgrade when available, upon check-in.
Daily continental breakfast for up to two people.
Guaranteed four o'clock p.m. late check-out.
A complimentary lunch for up to two people per room, excluding alcohol, taxes and gratuities, once during your stay.

Amex FHR benefits at FS CM:
A room upgrade when available, upon check-in.
Daily continental breakfast for up to two people.
Guaranteed four o'clock p.m. late check-out.
A 50-minute complimentary massage for up to two people per room, once during your stay.

I can't comment on the FS Chiang Mai, but I loved the MO. I think they are extremely generous with upgrades - we booked a basic villa and ended up in a huge honeymoon villa with large pool. I have heard that this has happened to others too. I liked being able to dip in and out of Chiang Mai easily.

pool villas at FS launched 5 days ago. http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxury-hotels/1005154-new-pool-villas-fs-chiang-mai.html

a handful of people here dislike MO - "disney" etc. the air quality can also be very bad, but not in december.

IIRC most who prefer FS say they consider service better. pool villas have helped improve value now as well.

either way, be sure to negotiate on rates/upgrades.
for MO, if you happen to have amex centurion, thats the best option.
for FS, there are also FS preferred partner travel agents.
FSPP / virtuoso on this forum (in FSPP thread) - http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/11707310-post55.html
FSPP / signature booking site - http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxury-hotels/998675-has-anyone-tried-whatahotel-com.html

this was "valid until 19 December 2009." might be another thing to consider in negotiations (unless amex cent) >
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/luxury-hotels/925381-every-2nd-night-free-mo-chiang-mai.html
http://74.125.95.132/search?q=cache:9E942sKdBZ8J:www.mandarinoriental.c om/chiangmai/tempting_offers/+%22sheer+indulgence%22+%22mandarin+oriental%22&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=safari

We stayed 3 nights in a villa at MO and did a site inspection at FS. Although the FS is one of the nicest in the chain, we still preferred the MO. Actually I called the MO Dhara Dhevi my preferred hotel worldwide in a post on Tripadvisor.

Taking your breakfast on the spa terrace at MO, looking over the (real) rice fields and listening to the (real) peasant, who is sitting on a (real) white king buffalo and playing the flute in the morning was surreal, but certainly not in a Disney way.

The library at the MO is the best stocked I have seen at any hotel in the world. Although a relatively big hotel, the MO manages to keep a very private atmosphere, with many lovely details and the general feeling that profit is not the key objective of the owners here. At ca. US$ 750 entry price for the villas, I'd even call the MO a bargain in that league.

To complement the experience, I suggest to combine the MO with the FS Tented Camp, although this one is really expensive at US$ 7500 for 3 nights minimum.

And on a 12 day trip I'd even take the boat down the Mekong to add the Aman (or the Residence Phou Vao) at Louangphrabang.

FS tented camp has 2 nt min now (from $2215)

base rates >
from $1580 (4th nt free)
over holiday from $1720 (5 nt rate)

and the dollar is down.

The library at the MO is the best stocked I have seen at any hotel in the world.
very interesting. can you compare to some other properties?

I have stayed at both... service and food is better at Four Seasons. MO has the edge on rooms with more room catagory choice and at the time I loved that value that the villas at the MO offered (2000 Sq Feet accomodations with pools and sun deck etc etc). Even the smaller colonial rooms facing the main pool were an improvement to the FS Rooms. BUT, now with the Pool villa at FS I think I would go back to the Four Seasons.

FS tented camp has 2 nt min now (from $2215)

base rates >
from $1580 (4th nt free)
over holiday from $1720 (5 nt min)

and the dollar is down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyCollector
The library at the MO is the best stocked I have seen at any hotel in the world.


very interesting. can you compare to some other properties?

Good to hear that FS Tented Camp prices came down.

Regarding libraries at hotels: I was particularly impressed at Dhara Dhevi, however find it hard to compare. I think I remember a good stock of DVDs/videos at Orient Express properties (e.g. Windsor Court New Orleans many years ago), and books at some African game lodges (e.g. recently at Gorilla Mountain Lodge, Rwanda) but I guess most of the time hotel libraries are non-existent or they simply consist of books left behind by guests. Would welcome other suggestions...

Taking your breakfast on the spa terrace at MO, looking over the (real) rice fields and listening to the (real) peasant, who is sitting on a (real) white king buffalo and playing the flute in the morning was surreal, but certainly not in a Disney way.

The library at the MO is the best stocked I have seen at any hotel in the world.

I think the 'real peasant' playing the flute in the morning is the type of Disney-like issue some people are not too keen on at MO Dhara Dhevi.

I have found many of the libraries at Amanresorts particularly good. I would suggest Amankila in particular which is well stocked with excellent travel related tomes with an emphasis on local flora,fauna and history. Amanjiwo too has a well thought out library.
I was introduced to some of the worlds best travel guides in the library at Amankila.

I think the 'real peasant' playing the flute in the morning is the type of Disney-like issue some people are not too keen on at MO Dhara Dhevi.

At least it isn't some animatronic robot with narration by Walter Cronkite.

At least it isn't some animatronic robot with narration by Walter Cronkite.

Exactly ^

The rice has been cultivated and sold by these real peasants, even before the MO was built. Couldn't imagine a better community integration project.

But as vuittonsofstyle pointed out in similar thread, this idea was apparently invented at the FS.

P.S.: Is the Hotel de la Cité in Carcassonne disneyesque? Or the Hotel de Paris in Monaco? Or the Hotel Bora Bora? Or the Al Maha?

I think the 'real peasant' playing the flute in the morning is the type of Disney-like issue some people are not too keen on at MO Dhara Dhevi.

But its not. It may sound Disney-ish, but it isn't when you see it. It is substantially less surreal than having a large piano in your villa, I promise you! These guys really are growing and farming the rice around the hotel, and then feeding their families with it - it is not being done for 'show'.

But its not. It may sound Disney-ish, but it isn't when you see it. It is substantially less surreal than having a large piano in your villa, I promise you! These guys really are growing and farming the rice around the hotel, and then feeding their families with it - it is not being done for 'show'.

By the way, the name of the water buffalo is Mr Boom Chop !! It is slightly Disney but I loved it.

The spa at the MO is amazing, as is the spa terrace for breakfast.

Wonderful timing as I am planning for Dec 2010 and was wondering the same thoughts. The FS Tented camp - are children allowed? I have an 11 year old.

Wonderful timing as I am planning for Dec 2010 and was wondering the same thoughts. The FS Tented camp - are children allowed? I have an 11 year old.

We didn't see children at the FS Tented Camp, it is rather a couples destination, but I don't think there are restrictions. The Mahout Elephant Riding experience may be from a certain age onwards only.

But for sure your 11-year old can sit on Mr. Boom Chop at the MO Dhara Dhevi (thanks for dropping the name Londonjetsetter ^)

"Disney-ish" some might call it, but I know we would all LOVE Mr Boom Chomp! Thanks re Tented Village, Trophy Collector.

Wonderful timing as I am planning for Dec 2010 and was wondering the same thoughts. The FS Tented camp - are children allowed? I have an 11 year old.

so theyll be 12 next year, right?

Family plan
Due to the unique nature of Four Seasons Tented Camp, only guests aged 12 and above are permitted. Children under 12 are welcome if part of a group that has reserved the entire Camp.

[QUOTE=Londonjetsetter;12682125]By the way, the name of the water buffalo is Mr Boom Chop !! It is slightly Disney but I loved it. QUOTE]

I had put the MO Dhara Dhevi on my list of hotels to visit after TrophyCollector's statement that it was the best hotel he had stayed at. And now we have Londonjetsetter's disclosure that we also get to meet Mr Boom Chop.

This is a hotel not to be missed.

[QUOTE=Londonjetsetter;12682125]By the way, the name of the water buffalo is Mr Boom Chop !! It is slightly Disney but I loved it. QUOTE]

I had put the MO Dhara Dhevi on my list of hotels to visit after TrophyCollector's statement that it was the best hotel he had stayed at. And now we have Londonjetsetter's disclosure that we also get to meet Mr Boom Chop.

This is a hotel not to be missed.

Some mornings the farmer actually sits on Mr Boom Chop's back while playing the flute! If you have kids they will love it.

Say hello to Mr. Boom Chop

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44894207@N08/4119540639

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44894207@N08/4119540639

Excuse my lack of picture posting skills.

This is Mr. Boom Chop:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2710/4119540639_a8371a114b.jpg

Is there any specific code for stay 1, get 1 free" promotion?