I'm thinking of spending some miles to go to Africa, as 1) it's very different to anywhere else and 2) the per-mile cost of buying a ticket to there is extremely high thus making redemptions a relative bargain (if you can find a seat, that is!). Since I'm a Skyteam flyer, I guess I should have a lot of options both in terms of getting there from Europe (with AF/AZ/KL/KQ) and for connections/intra-Africa itins (with KQ, of course).
I have very little knowledge of the specific countries (in a recent thread on the BA forum, I thought LUN was Luanda!)- I guess I know all the names and I could roughly point to most of them on a map, but that's about it.

Since it's going to be my first time on African soil, I'd prefer something relatively tame. Ideally something like a fair-sized capital/major city with a bit of nightlife and perhaps not far from a natural park/waterfalls/other "nature"-type attraction (but probably not chasing leopards in a Land Rover).
Safety/security is key- I want to be able to roam around without armed guards. If that's impossible to do on foot, I would consider renting a car or 4x4 if there aren't too many armed checkpoints around! Definitely not into the gated all-inclusive 5-star resort, tho!
I'm a reasonably well-travelled person (pretty much all of Europe plus Venezuela, UAE, HKG and a couple of days in India) and generally pretty aware of my surroundings. I have a basic grasp of French and speak good Spanish so I can get by in Portuguese if need be. I'm white (Mediterranean white- not Irish white), male in my mid-twenties and likely to go either alone or with a friend of similar demographics.
Not really interested in ZA, but willing to investigate any other place.
IS THERE ANYTHING? :p
Thanks in advance.

I studied abroad in Dakar, Senegal and can offer some advice on Dakar if youre interested. Senegal is extremely arid and does not have a ton of wildlife but there are I believe three national parks. In any event, Dakar is a great introduction to urban Africa and is kind of wild and crazy in that regard. It has some nightlife. You can also make your way up to St. Louis, which is the former colonial capital of Senegal and all of French West Africa, from Dakar. It's kind of crumbling but has some interesting colonial architecture and a jazz festival each winter. Let me know if you are interested in other ideas. The southern part of Senegal is more tropical and bordering on rain forest like. You can also visit (English speaking) the Gambia on your way south if going by car.

Sounds good! As I am totally clueless about Africa, I have loads of questions, though!!
Is it safe from crime (I don't mind pickpockets in a central bus station, but I wouldn't like to go to a place where I'm likely to get assaulted!)? Are there any good beaches near the city? What's hygiene like (food, water etc)? Outside of DKR, are the roads in a reasonable state or is it dirt tracks all around? Will everyone be able to give me directions in French, or do a lot of people speak only tribal languages?

Try Nairobi. It's relatively safe, very interesting and you can head off to Mombassa on the coast or to one of the wildlife reserves to see some of the wildlife.

I spend a lot of time in West Africa. It's great in so many ways, but I wouldn't go for the scenery..,

My other suggestion would be Namibia

well, having worked and lived in many of the West African countries (mali, burkina faso, cameroon, senegal, etc) i would highly recommend bamako, mali for its security, ample abailability of hotels and inns, relatively inexpensive cost of living and potential for tourism ie sahara dessert, gao, timbuctu, etc...

let me know if u need more info,

enjoy!

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!!
Please elaborate as much as you can, as information about these places is scarce....The travel wikis are only a few hundred words and other information is fragmented/lost among ads for irrelevant products, so there's very little I can find by myself...

I actually edited the Wikitravel article on Senegal but youre right its not a lot of information. I might recommend going to a bookstore or library and just sitting and reading through some travel guides. It is kind of hard to sort out on the internet but using google.fr instead of google.com will certainly make finding information on the French speaking countries easier.

I would second the previous post about West Africa not quite having the same level of beautiful wilderness and wildlife but that that doesn't necessarily make it a less interesting place to spend time.

Dakar itself has several major French hotel chains in the downtown area (extremely expensive and sterilized of anything African) and there are some independent places smattered throughout the city.

www.ausenegal.com is indispensable as is http://www.senegalaisement.com

Dakar has Goree Island, a historical site related to the slave trade, several busy and wild markets, many nightclubs and bars including Ciossane (spelling?) the club owned by the famous Senegal singer Youssou Ndour, delicious local and foreign cuisine restaurants, and lots of interesting neighborhoods to just walk around.

You can also take a new modern ferry to the south of Senegal (Ziguinchor and Cap Skirring) which has some nice beaches and is much less arid than Dakar and north. That allows you to bypass Gambia and the necessity of a visa (or bribe ugh).

Regarding safety, Dakar has probably more than its full share of pickpockets but I never encountered any sort of violence or violent crimes, especially towards visitors. You may have a little herd of children chasing you asking you for a cadeau from time to time but people are genuinely friendly, esp if you try some Wolof out with them. I think the comments about Mali are true also, I didnt get a chance to visit Mali but its sounds very peaceable and relaxed (unfortunately maybe because there is no work for anyone and its extremely hot). There is actually a train from Dakar to Bamako but according to a friend "it was the worst experience of my life and half the train got malaria."

There are daily flights from JFK, Washington Dulles, and Atlanta to Dakar from the American side and flights from most of the European capitals. You can also access a number of other African capitals as Dakar's service to the rest of West and even South Africa has been expanding in the past few years. Air Senegal is majority owned by Royal Air Maroc and is completely up to Western standards (their website needs a tad more work but eh). Their network in the subcontinent has really grown. You also have Kenya Airways serving Dakar to Nairobi via Bamako but I recall recently seeing a press release that the stopover city will change to either Abidjan or Accra...I may be mistaken. Check the wikis for the most up to date listing of flights.

I would recommend combining a visit to Senegal with another nearby country. I can definitely recommend Cape Verde as I spent Spring Break there in March 2006 and had a fantastic time. There is tons of hiking; windsurfing; cultural events; beaches etc to enjoy depending where you are. We saw almost no other tourists; each island is unique. There are multiple flights a day between Dakar and Praia, the capital of Cape Verde. TACV offers an air pass for within the archipelago if you fly to the islands from Europe or Africa on their flights.

Last, one of the nice things about Senegal is that it is practically the only country in West Africa that does not require a visa, at least for US citizens. Cape Verde, Mali, Gambia, Mauritania and Guinea Bissau (all of Senegals neighbors) do require visas but they all have embassies in Dakar where one can obtain a visa.

Overall, I think Senegal is a great introduction for a first timer to West Africa. I can't speak for East or South Africa however.

double post

I just tried to clean up the wikis on the Dakar Airport and on the Dakar wiktravel page. If anyone bothers to check, feel free to edit. The pictures on the Dakar page are from me.

I know you mentioned little interest in ZA, but I would sure consider Cape Town. Based on your age you'd fit right in on Long Street...great nightlife, trendy, you name it. And since you're a SkyTeam flyer you can use Delta starting next June (pending government approval). Until then it's a very cheap flight from Jo'Burg with many flights that work with the existing Delta flights 34/35. Your other option is KLM through Amsterdam.

IMHO the city is safe, though just like New Orleans, don't stray off Long Street, just as you would not stray far off Bourbon Street at night (no offense to anyone from New Orleans). Walked many many times from the V&A to Sea Point/Green Point without issue - at night. Like anywhere, just be vigilant.

Contact Andrew at 18 on Crox (www.18oncrox.com). Pure luxury with the greatest Malawi butler (Amstone) for about $100 per night. Andrew will set up your entire stay.

My first trip there was life-changing....but I think any trip to sub-saharan Africa will be that way. Can anyone else second that?

Great to hear you're considering Africa -- everyone should go....and if you're reading this and have not been.....what's the hold up?

I know you mentioned little interest in ZA, but I would sure consider Cape Town. Based on your age you'd fit right in on Long Street...great nightlife, trendy, you name it....IMHO the city is safe, though just like New Orleans, don't stray off Long Street, just as you would not stray far off Bourbon Street at night (no offense to anyone from New Orleans).

I obviously want to explore either on foot or by car. Being confined to one street, no matter how good it may be, is not my idea of "exploring"! I have heard a lot of horror stories about ZA and Nigeria and can't see myself going to either anytime soon!
Incidentally, I am every bit as familiar with Bourbon Street in New Orleans as I am with Long Street in CPT. ;)

And since you're a SkyTeam flyer you can use Delta starting next June (pending government approval). Until then it's a very cheap flight from Jo'Burg with many flights that work with the existing Delta flights 34/35.

While I might be able to use DL, I see no reason for doing so, since I can fly to either CDG or AMS in 90 mins or less and catch any number of KL, AF or KQ African flights from there! I doubt a detour via JFK would be very practical, and I'd rather avoid the US formalities that may well include a requirement to obtain a transit visa!

Safest and nicest place is Cape Town, but stay away from the areas between the airport and downtown/beaches.

I am based in Senegal and South Africa part of the year (I have an office in each country) and travel throughout West, Central and Southern Africa.

My top 3 suggestions for a first-timer are, in decreasing order of preference:


Ghana - Stable country politically; English-speaking; relative low cost of living; several great destinations (Kumasi, Cape Coast, Elmina castles, etc.) - direct DL flight from JFK
Senegal - Already covered by other posters; extremely safe compared to all the countries I have traveled to; feel free to PM if you need details or information, but note that it is relatively expensive nowadays as the CFA franc is pegged to the Euro - direct DL flight from ATL
South Africa - Don't rule it out! It is one of the most beautiful countries I have ever visited, and I do enjoy the incredible diversity of cultures and climates from the Limpopo (Northeast) to the Western Cape province. - DL flight from ATL (with 1-hr stopover in DKR)


I would rank Mali fourth. I don't know East Africa as well but I understand that Kenya is a good alternative, although probably less safe than Senegal and Ghana or Mali.

As to flying to these destinations, I actually DO NOT like flying Delta. It is such an inferior product on these routes compared to AF or SA. I prefer to go through CDG (early AF flight), take the RER in town for an early lunch to catch up with friends, and then head back to the airport to catch the flight to either DKR (leaves at 4pm) or JNB (leaves at 11pm)

First of all, I need to clarify that I don't intend to fly transatlantic to Africa when just crossing the Mediterranean will do. :D
But some great suggestions there


Ghana - Stable country politically; English-speaking; relative low cost of living; several great destinations (Kumasi, Cape Coast, Elmina castles, etc.)

I did have Ghana in mind...Is it still safe or has lawlessness from CIV spread across?? Please tell me more about the country!


Senegal - Already covered by other posters; extremely safe compared to all the countries I have traveled to; feel free to PM if you need details or information, but note that it is relatively expensive nowadays as the CFA franc is pegged to the Euro

Nowt wrong with the Euro! From what I've seen on ausenegal, hotel prices seem fine at non-chain properties and, as I won't be spending money for the tickets, money is not a big concern for this trip anyway.

I would rank Mali fourth. I don't know East Africa as well but I understand that Kenya is a good alternative, although probably less safe than Senegal and Ghana or Mali.

Well, the consensus then seems to be that the most logical thing to do is focus on West Africa. Let's say I want to stay 20 days, what would you say
about an itin like:

Day 1: Europe-DKR
Day 2, 3, 4, 5: Staying in DKR, exploring surrounding areas
Day 6, 7: BKO
Day 8, 9: Rural Mali and Timbouktou
Day 10: BKO
Day 11, 12: Rural Ghana attractions
Day 13, 14, 15: ACC and surrounding areas
Day 16 : ACC-NBO-MBA
Day 17, 18: chilling out around MBA
Day 19: NBO
Day 20: NBO-Europe

Is it too much to do in too little time, am I likely to have fatigue/diarrhea issues by day 6 or does it sound alright to you?
As for intra-Africa flights, we already have a recommendation for Air Senegal for the DKR-BKO leg. What about the BKO-TOM? Is it drivable?
It appears there are no BKO-ACC flights...are you aware of any? Maybe I should reverse the itin and fly AF to BKO then go DKR then ACC- or even ACC-DKR-BKO...

1. If you are coming from the Euro zone, then you will be doing well in West Africa. And you will not need to battle jet lag. Make sure to have your yellow fever shot. And do load up on any type of effective anti-diarrheal medicine.

2. I am not sure what you mean by lawlessness in Ghana. It has to be one of the most stable countries in the region. Can you explain where you obtained this information?

3. That's a pretty ambitious schedule you have, but I did take a group of 25 students to 4 countries (Senegal, Gambia, Ghana and Zimbabwe) in 3 weeks during my university days, so I think your itinerary is doable especially if you are traveling by yourself or with a friend with 'similar demographics'. I am assuming that you are both in good physical condition. Make sure to allow yourself some downtime (1/2 day) before leaving for a new destination.

4. While there are no BKO-ACC direct flights that I know of, Abidjan (ABJ) is a hub for the region. Air Ivoire (VU) and Ethiopian Airlines (ET) fly between BKO and ABJ. VU and EK (yes, EK!) fly between ABJ and ACC. One of the best kept secrets is that EK offers an amazingly short flight between ABJ and ACC. Great service for a 45-minute flight. But make sure to check on which days these flights take place as they are not daily flights.

5. KQ also flies between DKR and BKO, by the way. But I am sure you know that.

6. With respect to Ghana, what questions do you have specifically ? And when do you plan on taking this trip anyway?

It appears there are no BKO-ACC flights...are you aware of any?

Aerocontractors (www.acn.aero) have just started a weekly LOS-ACC-ABJ-BKO service on Thursdays.

Try Nairobi. It's relatively safe, very interesting and you can head off to Mombassa on the coast or to one of the wildlife reserves to see some of the wildlife.

I spend a lot of time in West Africa. It's great in so many ways, but I wouldn't go for the scenery..,

My other suggestion would be Namibia

Nairobi? Safe? Since when? I would put Nairobi at the lower end of major african cities in terms of safety. If you're in a taxi/hotel bubble, it's fine, but that's true just about anywhere but Nigeria.

I'm thinking of spending some miles to go to Africa, as 1) it's very different to anywhere else and 2) the per-mile cost of buying a ticket to there is extremely high thus making redemptions a relative bargain (if you can find a seat, that is!). Since I'm a Skyteam flyer, I guess I should have a lot of options both in terms of getting there from Europe (with AF/AZ/KL/KQ) and for connections/intra-Africa itins (with KQ, of course).
I have very little knowledge of the specific countries (in a recent thread on the BA forum, I thought LUN was Luanda!)- I guess I know all the names and I could roughly point to most of them on a map, but that's about it.

Since it's going to be my first time on African soil, I'd prefer something relatively tame. Ideally something like a fair-sized capital/major city with a bit of nightlife and perhaps not far from a natural park/waterfalls/other "nature"-type attraction (but probably not chasing leopards in a Land Rover).
Safety/security is key- I want to be able to roam around without armed guards. If that's impossible to do on foot, I would consider renting a car or 4x4 if there aren't too many armed checkpoints around! Definitely not into the gated all-inclusive 5-star resort, tho!
I'm a reasonably well-travelled person (pretty much all of Europe plus Venezuela, UAE, HKG and a couple of days in India) and generally pretty aware of my surroundings. I have a basic grasp of French and speak good Spanish so I can get by in Portuguese if need be. I'm white (Mediterranean white- not Irish white), male in my mid-twenties and likely to go either alone or with a friend of similar demographics.
Not really interested in ZA, but willing to investigate any other place.
IS THERE ANYTHING? :p
Thanks in advance.

I've been going to Rwanda for the past two years and can tell you it's very safe there. There are gorillas and other primates within a couple of hours drive of the capital, and the capital itself has nightlife and some things to see. It's no Joberg/Nairobi/Cairo, but it's a nice town to spend some time and definitely off the beaten track. KQ flies there from NBO once a day.

1. If you are coming from the Euro zone, then you will be doing well in West Africa. And you will not need to battle jet lag. Make sure to have your yellow fever shot. And do load up on any type of effective anti-diarrheal medicine.

Thanks about the yellow fever tip. I was going to check the medical travel advice and maybe even go as far as buying some travel insurance (I have some basic cover through a credit card, but probably not adequate in case of anything half-serious).

I am not sure what you mean by lawlessness in Ghana. It has to be one of the most stable countries in the region. Can you explain where you obtained this information?

It isn't "information". Just hearsay that some of the conflicts in Cote d'Ivoire may have spread across the border. If you aren't aware of this, chances are it never happened anyway. :D


6. With respect to Ghana, what questions do you have specifically ? And when do you plan on taking this trip anyway?

I haven't decided as to when...Probably around March. Nothing is firm yet, I was just exploring whether it would be possible to go to Africa without getting 23 different kinds of malaria and/or being mugged multiple times. As you will definitely have experienced before, Africa is not exactly good at marketing itself as a tourist destination so information ranges from sketchy details to little problems overblown through a game of Chinese whispers.
It's great to know that Africa is both worth visiting and relatively safe to visit, so I'll be trying to do more research and preparation over the next few months.
By the way...Is there a dry and wet season in W. Africa or is it mostly dry all year round?
As for Ghana, what's ACC like? Attractions, museums, nightlife?

Aerocontractors (www.acn.aero) have just started a weekly LOS-ACC-ABJ-BKO service on Thursdays.

Thanks for that. Is ABJ airport safe??

Nairobi? Safe? Since when? I would put Nairobi at the lower end of major african cities in terms of safety. If you're in a taxi/hotel bubble, it's fine, but that's true just about anywhere but Nigeria.

Anyone else with opinions on the safety of NBO? Maybe I should use it only as a connection point to/from MBA!

Anyone else with opinions on the safety of NBO? Maybe I should use it only as a connection point to/from MBA!

I've been to about 65 countries around the world and for me Nairobi seemed THE most dangerous city (by far) I have ever visited. Do a Google search with the words Nairobi, carjack and crime and see what you think.

I have very limited experience compared to the other posters, but was taken aback by the Nairobi/Mombassa suggestion if safety was an issue.

In one of my brief add-ons to a business trip to JNB I went to Vic Falls and then did a wonderful 1 day trip to Botswana and the Chobe. There are several nice, understated lodges along the river and the pontoon boats were an easy way to get close to the animals.

I'm not sure about exploring on foot - unless we're back in Capetown!

It is the wrong alliance, but I have to plug the BA/Comair flight JNB-VFA. Seat pitch in coach was 36" and they did cold drink, hot snack, hot drink on the short flight.

To close with an indication of my off-center leanings - I enjoyed my visit to the Joburg zoo.

www.slok-air.com/index.php?id=13

Also, why do some people call it Nairobbery?

www.slok-air.com/index.php?id=13

Also, why do some people call it Nairobbery?

Wow! Slok even have a First class!!
I note that flight prices in the region seem quite high... Luckily, they are priced in dollars so they'll probably be like €2 by the time I arrive. :p

I have very limited experience compared to the other posters, but was taken aback by the Nairobi/Mombassa suggestion if safety was an issue.

In one of my brief add-ons to a business trip to JNB I went to Vic Falls and then did a wonderful 1 day trip to Botswana and the Chobe. There are several nice, understated lodges along the river and the pontoon boats were an easy way to get close to the animals.

I'm not sure about exploring on foot - unless we're back in Capetown!

It is the wrong alliance, but I have to plug the BA/Comair flight JNB-VFA. Seat pitch in coach was 36" and they did cold drink, hot snack, hot drink on the short flight.

To close with an indication of my off-center leanings - I enjoyed my visit to the Joburg zoo.

Sounds interesting, but really I am less than enthusiastic about S. Africa. It's further out than anything else, it's a bit too "anglo", and it's not really safe so probably not worth it.

I have heard also that Rwanda is a nice destination and that a lot of investment in the tourism sector has taken place in the past decade. Its very hilly and supposedly very beautiful....come to think of it, I might just make a visit there.

Hi,

Having spent the last two years visiting parts of East Africa I might be able to offer some insight.

Nairobi-Only did an overnight but I did go for a walk around the hotel about 8 pm after arriving. Will never do this again,scary place.
Tanzania-Very safe and tourist friendly. Would suggest skipping Dar and heading to Kili and Arusha. Zanzibar is also a must see.
Uganda-Did not get much further north than Kampala but the south was fun with lots to do. Would suggest the chimps and the Falls at Jinja,you can also stay on lake victoria, islands are way off the grid!
Rwanda-Absolutely the safest I have ever felt in Africa. Went for a run multiple times at night. Gorilla trekking is excellent.

One caution-things in Africa run on Africa time, if you schedule yourself too tightly you will probably be disappointed. Remember that ferries and busses leave when full, not on a set schedule.
I spent 3 weeks in TZ and 3 weeks in RW and UG and only scratched the surface. Would strongly suggest going for less than more. There is no shortage of things to do and you can always add on as you see fit.

PM me if you want any more info about these areas. The guide books may be outdated so ask around. Most people will be very helpful.

S. Africa . . . it's not really safe so probably not worth it.Aw, come on. Like anywhere else, it largely depends on where you go and what you do. Common sense and a modicum of caution go a long way.

For a tourist the greatest risk by far in SA is traffic, not crime. The number of tourist killed annually in the course of a crime can be counted on the fingers on one hand, whilst the number killed in road traffic accidents is well over 300.

Johan

Aw, come on. Like anywhere else, it largely depends on where you go and what you do. Common sense and a modicum of caution go a long way.


Come on...I didn't say I am not going BECAUSE of crime. I just said that between the "white influence", the distance and the crime, I'd rather spend my time elsewhere.
Actually I've thought about Kenya again. While I'd like to try out KQ and go to the coast, maybe it's a better idea to spend the full three weeks in West Africa and get a better feel for the place.
If Tanzania and Rwanda are as interesting as you sa, I should probably do a separate trip to East Africa in the future, and that could also include MBA.
By the way, does Rwanda have decent facilities? As much as I find the 5* pampering obnoxious, I like a big room with a nice bed, a clean toilet, functioning airconditioning and a socket with semi-reliable electricity for my laptop (even without internet, if only to play a bit of Football Manager when I'm too tired to go out) as much as anyone.

I will add my voice to the chorus about Nairobi. The people I know who live there told me horror stories about carjacking, home invasion, etc. It doesn't strike me as the place to choose for safety. It is, however, better developed than some other parts of Africa, so if you have the funds to devote to it, you will find high-quality restaurants, etc. But that doesn't sound like the experience you are looking for.

I will add my voice to the chorus about Nairobi. The people I know who live there told me horror stories about carjacking, home invasion, etc. It doesn't strike me as the place to choose for safety. It is, however, better developed than some other parts of Africa, so if you have the funds to devote to it, you will find high-quality restaurants, etc. But that doesn't sound like the experience you are looking for.

Why would I bother going to Nairobi for fine restaurants when I live just a stone's throw from France? :D
I'll stick to West Africa!

Is ABJ airport safe??

My company did a safety/security audit of ABJ airport last year and it passed, with observations. The terminal is actually quite fabulous for an African airport but many of the processes are slightly in disarray.

http://www.myaviation.net/search/photo_search.php?id=00640978

Wow! Slok even have a First class!!

I personally prefer to fly via Europe than on Slok. And this is despite (or perhaps because of?) knowing most of the managers at Slok personally.

I personally prefer to fly via Europe than on Slok. And this is despite (or perhaps because of?) knowing most of the managers at Slok personally.

That doesn't sound too good!!
Any other W. African airlines that are to be avoided??

For a tourist the greatest risk by far in SA is traffic, not crime. The number of tourist killed annually in the course of a crime can be counted on the fingers on one hand, whilst the number killed in road traffic accidents is well over 300.

Johan

Agree 100% having lived here for almost a year I have seen the worst traffic accidents in S.A. Including Cape Town.

I have never flown Slok so I cannot comment on them. Despite the bad reputation of most African airlines, I fly the following on a regular basis:


Air Senegal International - V7: owned by Royal Air Maroc
Air Ivoire - VU: joint venture between Air France and a US private equity fund
Air Burkina - 2J: reliable flights in the region
Bellview - B3: from Nigeria - despite having a well-publicized crash a few years ago, their safety record is good.
Virgin Nigeria - BK: the name says it all.


I fly through ABJ quite often and have never had any problem at the airport. As mentioned above, it is quite modern, very clean, and not at all noisy (unlike Dakar.)

On the subject of restaurants, why go to Nairobi? :) Dakar has some excellent albeit expensive "western" restaurants:

The restaurant at Hotel Le Lodge (Almadies) - one of the best fish carpaccios I have ever tasted; the decor is non-descript but don't be fooled
Le Mogador (Almadies)
La Fourchette (downtown) - stylish decor; excellent menu overall; great desserts; the lunch crowd is mostly a West African Central Bank crowd as the BCEAO is nearby
Terrou Bi on the corniche - has been a hit-or-miss lately but overall good


For typical Senegalese/West African dishes:

Restaurant Obeu-beu (SICAP) - you will need a driver who knows his way around to get there; the wait is quite long
Le Melea (downtown) - modest decor; great food; their Thiebou Dieun (Senegalese national dish) is excellent
Le Grand Bassam (off Route de Ouakam near Fann Residence) - great food at cheap prices; mostly Ivorian dishes


And that's just the tip of the iceberg as there are a number of other great eateries in Dakar, not to mention good restaurants in La Petite Cote (the resort area about an hour from Dakar.)

Given the pervasive French influence in Senegal but also in Mali, you will find a number of French-style pastry shops ("patisseries") where you can get quality pastries and desserts in addition to baguettes and other types of bread.

Also, if you are adventurous, you can try one of the excellent "dibiteries" near the downtown market. But be careful. Foreigners usually end up with a case of the runs after sampling their fares. I think I am immunized now. :)

For nightlife in Senegal, I don't do much of it as I prefer to stay at home or socialize with friends. However, there is always a new club opening, and you will find a number of clubs on the Route de Ngor (road that leads from the airport to Almadies and downtown). I also understand that there is a trendy nightspot in the lower level of the Meridien President hotel in Almadies, but I have never been there. If you go to the Airport Casino nightclub -which is a favorite of many expats - be aware that the ladies there are "working girls" for the most part.

Finally, on a more high-brow note, no trip to Dakar is complete without spending a few hours on Goree Island. You catch the ferry at the port near downtown (any cabdriver knows where it is.)

Details on Accra in an upcoming post.

Goodness gracious!!
Thanks for all of the info, gwc67. Please keep it up with more info on Accra and/or other places in the region that you know about.

Given the pervasive French influence in Senegal but also in Mali, you will find a number of French-style pastry shops ("patisseries") where you can get quality pastries and desserts in addition to baguettes and other types of bread.

mmm sounds great.

If you go to the Airport Casino nightclub -which is a favorite of many expats - be aware that the ladies there are "working girls" for the most part.

Expats and "working girls"...That sounds a bit dodgy! Is it an actual casino (always fun to stay there for a few hours with a pen and paper trying to uncover patterns...if that fails, just play red/black doubling stake till you win :D ) or is it just the name of the club?

Expats and "working girls"...That sounds a bit dodgy! Is it an actual casino (always fun to stay there for a few hours with a pen and paper trying to uncover patterns...if that fails, just play red/black doubling stake till you win :D ) or is it just the name of the club?

It is actually a hotel (no 5 star but clean rooms and wi-fi Internet access in some), a bona fide casino (although I have never set foot in there as I don't gamble), a restaurant (not bad if you are hungry), and a nightclub. The hotel is at one end and the night club and casino at other end. The place is on Route de Ngor, about 5-10 minutes from the airport depending on traffic. You can't miss it at night with the cars parked in front and the taxis waiting for fares.

One more thing: people go out really late in Senegal. They usually don't hit clubs until 11pm-midnight.

I have never flown Slok so I cannot comment on them. Despite the bad reputation of most African airlines, I fly the following on a regular basis:


Air Senegal International - V7: owned by Royal Air Maroc
Air Ivoire - VU: joint venture between Air France and a US private equity fund
Air Burkina - 2J: reliable flights in the region
Bellview - B3: from Nigeria - despite having a well-publicized crash a few years ago, their safety record is good.
Virgin Nigeria - BK: the name says it all.


I fly through ABJ quite often and have never had any problem at the airport. As mentioned above, it is quite modern, very clean, and not at all noisy (unlike Dakar.)

On the subject of restaurants, why go to Nairobi? :) Dakar has some excellent albeit expensive "western" restaurants:

The restaurant at Hotel Le Lodge (Almadies) - one of the best fish carpaccios I have ever tasted; the decor is non-descript but don't be fooled
Le Mogador (Almadies)
La Fourchette (downtown) - stylish decor; excellent menu overall; great desserts; the lunch crowd is mostly a West African Central Bank crowd as the BCEAO is nearby
Terrou Bi on the corniche - has been a hit-or-miss lately but overall good


For typical Senegalese/West African dishes:

Restaurant Obeu-beu (SICAP) - you will need a driver who knows his way around to get there; the wait is quite long
Le Melea (downtown) - modest decor; great food; their Thiebou Dieun (Senegalese national dish) is excellent
Le Grand Bassam (off Route de Ouakam near Fann Residence) - great food at cheap prices; mostly Ivorian dishes


And that's just the tip of the iceberg as there are a number of other great eateries in Dakar, not to mention good restaurants in La Petite Cote (the resort area about an hour from Dakar.)

Given the pervasive French influence in Senegal but also in Mali, you will find a number of French-style pastry shops ("patisseries") where you can get quality pastries and desserts in addition to baguettes and other types of bread.

Also, if you are adventurous, you can try one of the excellent "dibiteries" near the downtown market. But be careful. Foreigners usually end up with a case of the runs after sampling their fares. I think I am immunized now. :)

For nightlife in Senegal, I don't do much of it as I prefer to stay at home or socialize with friends. However, there is always a new club opening, and you will find a number of clubs on the Route de Ngor (road that leads from the airport to Almadies and downtown). I also understand that there is a trendy nightspot in the lower level of the Meridien President hotel in Almadies, but I have never been there. If you go to the Airport Casino nightclub -which is a favorite of many expats - be aware that the ladies there are "working girls" for the most part.

Finally, on a more high-brow note, no trip to Dakar is complete without spending a few hours on Goree Island. You catch the ferry at the port near downtown (any cabdriver knows where it is.)

Details on Accra in an upcoming post.

Wow you are totally bringing me back to Dakar.

In one of my brief add-ons to a business trip to JNB I went to Vic Falls and then did a wonderful 1 day trip to Botswana and the Chobe.
I second the suggestion from shyabrasive. Vic Falls is incredible, and although Zimbabwe isn't exactly a stable place these days, both the government and those that dissent are smart enough to realize that it is unwise the ever let anything happen to a tourist.

Sounds interesting, but really I am less than enthusiastic about S. Africa. It's further out than anything else, it's a bit too "anglo", and it's not really safe so probably not worth it.

Aw, come on. Like anywhere else, it largely depends on where you go and what you do. Common sense and a modicum of caution go a long way.

If the OP is predisposed against visiting South Africa, that is the OP's loss. I was fortunate enough to do a guest gig at Sliver in CPT. I walked from the club back to my hotel at 4am. Use common sense, be alert, and stay on major streets. Come to think of it, that is exactly the same strategy I employ walking at night in London, Paris, Chicago, and San Francisco. :rolleyes:

Finally, some thoughts about the "perception" of South Africa:

1. I found it to be a remarkably diverse and surprisingly integrated country. In many ways, South Africa is the "melting pot" that the US thinks that IT is.

2. There are a lot of places in this world that I haven't seen yet, but I've managed to hit a couple of dozen countries on six continents. Without a doubt, South Africa has the most optomistic population I have encountered. Anywhere. Live is lived looking forward. The people are proud, and they should be. They have progressed light years in the last 15 years towards fulfilling their potential.

It would be a shame if the OP allowed misconceptions to inhibit a visit to South Africa.

Bellview - B3: from Nigeria - despite having a well-publicized crash a few years ago, their safety record is good.


I won't quite say that Bellview's safety record is "good", but rather "adequate". It is an unfortunate fact that any airline operating in Africa suffers from inherent disadvantages in areas such as aircraft maintenance due primarily to logistical issues such as part supply chains, etc...

Personally, I avoid Bellview but would fly them in a pinch if I absolutely had to. Virgin Nigeria and Aerocontractors are the two Nigerian carriers that I have no hestitation endorsing as world class. Anything else from Nigeria (except possibly Arik) such as Chanchangi, IRS, etc... is to be avoided like the plague.

The rest of the region is a mix - Antrak and CTK in Ghana are ok for domestic runs. Air Ivoire is a professional enough outfit. Air Senegal is world class. Slok is dodgy. Air Burkina is decent.

Gwc67, any chance of posting the ACC tips?
Cheers. :)

PS: I will definitely visit ZA sometime in the future, I just don't feel like going there in my first African trip.

The OP has gotten an earful of advice here. It is an amazing continent and whatever the OP decides, at the very least, he/she will have a great experience. Best wishes for an incredible trip. ^

Gwc67, any chance of posting the ACC tips?
Cheers. :)

PS: I will definitely visit ZA sometime in the future, I just don't feel like going there in my first African trip.

Will post Ghana as soon as I am "stationary", so probably this weekend. Currently in transit on my way back to ... Dakar. :)