View Full Version : "Western" Kaiseki Restaurants


robyng
Mar 20, 06, 7:01 pm
I'm very interested in food - and would like to have some "kaiseki" meals in Japan for a few reasons (among them - the meal's historical significance in terms of influencing European and US chefs to develop the concept of tasting menus). I understand that many of these restaurants are quite traditional - and that presents 2 problems. First - my husband wears a huge knee brace (his knee is shot after years of running) - and there is no way he can sit cross-legged on the floor. Second - I am very nervous about going to any expensive restaurant which only takes cash (will spend all afternoon worrying how much I should take - I am not used to thinking about carrying cash).

We will be in Tokyo and Osaka and Kyoto and I wonder if there are any excellent kaiseki restaurants you can recommend where we can sit "western style" and use credit cards? Robyn

mcg1000
Mar 20, 06, 11:03 pm
You can sit at the counter at a lot of kaiseki restaurants. One I go to a lot is Gion Tanimoto in Kyoto (075-551-8011). Just make sure your concierge makes a reservation for you at the counter. I don't think, like many other kaiseki restaurants -- or restaurants in Kyoto for that matter, that it takes cards, but it's quite reasonable (Y8000 a head for dinner), so as long as you go easy on the sake, you don't need to carry arround more than $250 cash.

mcg1000
Mar 20, 06, 11:09 pm
I also remembered the Kyoto restaurant, Isecho (http://www.imperialhotel.co.jp/cgi-bin/imperial_hp/index.cgi?ac1=JTR&ac2=isecho&ac3=&Page=hpd_view) in the Imperial Hotel (http://www.imperialhotel.co.jp/cgi-bin/imperial_hp/index_e.cgi?ac1=ETR&ac2=&Page=hpd_view). A bit pricier than the Kyoto restaurant in Kyoto I mentioned above (dinner starts at Y12,000) but again there is counter seating and as this is in a hotel you would have no problem with credit cards.

g24kb8
Mar 21, 06, 9:53 pm
Cant give you any names of restaurants but Kyoto has many great Kaiseki restaurants, many have counter seating as well so you dont have to worry about sitting on the floor. I am 6'8 and have a bad knee as well, I use to hate sitting on the floor.

jib71
Mar 22, 06, 5:47 am
Seki
http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/g194800/
Reservation advisable.
Counter seating = Yes
Credit cards = Visa / DC
This restaurant is in the most atmospheric, narrow, cobble-stone alley that I know in Tokyo. Even if the food weren't great it would be worth visiting for the scenery... but the food is great and reasonably priced with kaiseki options from 6,000yen. (My bill is usually around 10,000per person at the end of the evening).
Print a copy of the menu from the above website, because the one in the restaurant is illegible ... even to Japanese people.
Print a copy of the map from the above website because the restaurant is impossible to find without one ... even for locals. (Hint: Walk up Kagurazaka to the gaudy temple. On the other side of the road is a narrow alley with a sign for "Le Bretagne" ... walk down the alley, past "Le Bretagne" and turn the corner... Seki is on your right).
Seating - Be sure to ask for a "counter" seat when you make your reservation. This will allow you to occupy one of the "park bench" type seats at the counter.
The website claims "English spoken" because the "master" lived in Ealing (London) for a while. The welcome is incredibly warmm, but let's just say that his English is ... interesting.
The 90 year-old Grandmother will bring you the bill at the end of your meal and will follow you out of the restaurant repeating "Thank you. Please come again. Thank you. Please come again. Thank you... "
Guaranteed good time.

Pickles
Mar 22, 06, 5:50 am
One of my favorites: http://www.kifune.jp/index3.html

They have counter setting and I'm pretty sure they take credit cards.

TR35R
Mar 22, 06, 7:23 am
I've got a simple question. Kaiseki... 解析 or 懐石 or 会席? Which one?

Q Shoe Guy
Mar 22, 06, 7:57 am
I've got a simple question. Kaiseki... 解析 or 懐石 or 会席? Which one?

Are you making this a challenge? You could try harder if you are........ ;)

jib71
Mar 22, 06, 8:35 am
Could be 貝咳... with 牛痰

TR35R
Mar 22, 06, 9:00 am
Just for the record, I'm not familiar with Chinese-characters. I love Hiraganas/Katakanas instead.

"解析" This usually means "analysis"
"懐石" Um... Ahem. I'll leave it to your imagination.
"会席" You may call this "Japanese Thanksgiving style". Am I missing something?

Could be 貝咳... with 牛痰
Haywire! :p

TR35R
Mar 22, 06, 9:13 am
Here's the "懐石料理"
http://images.google.com/images?num=100&hl=en&lr=&as_qdr=all&q=%E6%87%90%E7%9F%B3%E6%96%99%E7%90%86&sa=N&tab=wi

and the "会席料理"
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=100&hl=en&lr=&as_qdr=all&q=%E4%BC%9A%E5%B8%AD%E6%96%99%E7%90%86&btnG=Search

jib71
Mar 22, 06, 9:20 am
"解析" This usually means "analysis"
"懐石" Um... Ahem. I'll leave it to your imagination.
"会席" You may call this "Japanese Thanksgiving style". Am I missing something?

Nice explanation here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaiseki

TR35R
Mar 22, 06, 9:35 am
Nice explanation here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaiseki
Thanks! But... jib71, You did solve what does the "懐石" mean though, however the links above you guys attached saying all "会席". I think you have one job to do. ;)

grumbler
Mar 22, 06, 9:38 am
I've said this elsewhere on this site, but Waketokuyama in Tokyo is great, and is contemporary kaiseki.

jib71
Mar 22, 06, 9:44 am
Thanks! But... jib71, You did solve what does the "懐石" mean though, however the links above you guys attached saying all "会席". I think you have one job to do. ;)

Well - if you want a buddhist-style, vegetarian kaiseki then I think "Bon" near Iriya is very good.
They use the name "Fucha Ryori" for the food there - but it struck me as being very "kaiseki" style. Maybe 懐石???

mosburger
Mar 23, 06, 4:47 pm
Northern Kyoto also has several small "Kyoto style" French bistros with counter seating and local ingredients and influences. It's not fusion per se but a sophisticated Kyoto take on another great culinary culture. Personally prefer those and the fine Izakayas over most Kaiseki but then it's just my opinion. :)

Also, most Japanese apart from top politicians, businessmen and various lobbyists rarely eat Kaiseki. Please make sure that your patronage is appreciated and respected at the place you choose. One way to assure this is to make reservations through your hotel/friends and deciding what you actually like and how much you want to spend.

robyng
Mar 27, 06, 6:15 pm
Seki
http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/g194800/
Reservation advisable.
Counter seating = Yes
Credit cards = Visa / DC
This restaurant is in the most atmospheric, narrow, cobble-stone alley that I know in Tokyo. Even if the food weren't great it would be worth visiting for the scenery... but the food is great and reasonably priced with kaiseki options from 6,000yen. (My bill is usually around 10,000per person at the end of the evening).
Print a copy of the menu from the above website, because the one in the restaurant is illegible ... even to Japanese people.
Print a copy of the map from the above website because the restaurant is impossible to find without one ... even for locals. (Hint: Walk up Kagurazaka to the gaudy temple. On the other side of the road is a narrow alley with a sign for "Le Bretagne" ... walk down the alley, past "Le Bretagne" and turn the corner... Seki is on your right).
Seating - Be sure to ask for a "counter" seat when you make your reservation. This will allow you to occupy one of the "park bench" type seats at the counter.
The website claims "English spoken" because the "master" lived in Ealing (London) for a while. The welcome is incredibly warmm, but let's just say that his English is ... interesting.
The 90 year-old Grandmother will bring you the bill at the end of your meal and will follow you out of the restaurant repeating "Thank you. Please come again. Thank you. Please come again. Thank you... "
Guaranteed good time.

Sounds like quite an adventure just finding the place (took me 5 minutes to find the train stop on my map - of course - it doesn't help that there are about 10 train lines - orange looks an awful lot like red on a small map.

What part of the city is this called? Thanks. Robyn

robyng
Mar 27, 06, 6:18 pm
Nice explanation here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaiseki

And a good thing too. Because I didn't understand anything all of you were saying :) . Robyn

jib71
Mar 27, 06, 6:29 pm
What part of the city is this called? Thanks. Robyn

The area is known as Kagurazaka.
It falls under the administration of Shinjuku ward.

There are three railway stations nearby:
- Iidabashi (which has JR and several subway lines)
- Kagurazaka (Subway - Tozai line)
- Ushigome kagurazaka (Subway - Oedo line)

BTW - The Kagurazaka area is packed with restaurants of every type. On the main street, you will see lots of French, Italian and Japanese restaurants (and they are mostly good). But away from the brouhaha of the main drag, you will find some buildings which appear to be very "quiet" restaurants with very subdued signage and no obvious menu. Some of these are high-end Ryotei, which demand a mega-expense-account - and are best avoided unless you are a Japanese politician or have access to a mega-expense account as MosBurger mentioned.

robyng
Mar 27, 06, 6:43 pm
Northern Kyoto also has several small "Kyoto style" French bistros with counter seating and local ingredients and influences. It's not fusion per se but a sophisticated Kyoto take on another great culinary culture. Personally prefer those and the fine Izakayas over most Kaiseki but then it's just my opinion. :)

Also, most Japanese apart from top politicians, businessmen and various lobbyists rarely eat Kaiseki. Please make sure that your patronage is appreciated and respected at the place you choose. One way to assure this is to make reservations through your hotel/friends and deciding what you actually like and how much you want to spend.

I think that is very good advice. Although there are "famous" restaurants that take reservations on the internet - I think that especially in a country like Japan - which tends to be somewhat formal - it will be important to have an "introduction" to any higher end restaurants to have a world class experience. We have found that "introductions" are sometimes not necessary in world class restaurants to get the best the restaurant has to offer. Some of our best experiences have been when I've called the restaurant direct and made reservations myself - and the person taking the reservation turns out to be the chef's wife :). But sometimes those introductions are necessary - and - at a minimum - they can never hurt.

Of course - the logistics of the "direct phone call to a restaurant in Japan" are quite daunting (both in terms of the time difference and the language).

So I think I will spend a lot of time with the concierge at the hotel in Tokyo when we arrive to discuss the options. And my husband will try his Japanese - and I hope the concierge will be frank in terms of telling us how far it will get us.

I think our goal is to get an overview in terms of dining. To explore a small sample of what Japan has to offer. High-end - middle - and low. And I will probably reserve a fair number of calories for the world class chocolate that I know I can find in Tokyo - and perhaps other cities as well :) .

By the way - if anyone here is reading this thread to get information for his/her trip - one thing you ought to keep in mind is that higher-end Japanese food sensibilities can be very different than those we're used to in the west. There is a very big emphasis on texture - sometimes to the exclusion of the tastes that we're familiar with. Tastes can be bland - or bitter. Since these restaurants can be very very expensive - it's worth asking whether you're willing to pay a lot of money to experience this. When I described some of the restaurants I was thinking about to my husband - he gave them a big thumbs down. He is willing to try just about anything - he's just not willing to spend a small fortune for something he doesn't think he'll enjoy. Food for thought - and I will keep thinking. Robyn

robyng
Mar 27, 06, 7:24 pm
The area is known as Kagurazaka.
It falls under the administration of Shinjuku ward.

There are three railway stations nearby:
- Iidabashi (which has JR and several subway lines)
- Kagurazaka (Subway - Tozai line)
- Ushigome kagurazaka (Subway - Oedo line)

BTW - The Kagurazaka area is packed with restaurants of every type. On the main street, you will see lots of French, Italian and Japanese restaurants (and they are mostly good). But away from the brouhaha of the main drag, you will find some buildings which appear to be very "quiet" restaurants with very subdued signage and no obvious menu. Some of these are high-end Ryotei, which demand a mega-expense-account - and are best avoided unless you are a Japanese politician or have access to a mega-expense account as MosBurger mentioned.

It's hard for me to get a handle on how immense Tokyo must be - because although I see this neighborhood on my maps - it is not mentioned in terms of hotels/restaurants/attractions/anything anywhere in the half dozen guide books I have. But there is a a certain attraction to just finding a subway stop on a map - getting out and exploring (wouldn't do that on a random basis in New York - but I don't think we'll have any problems in Tokyo).

This is the trip of a lifetime for us - and we will undoubtedly get to a couple of those "mega-expense-account" restaurants. But I simply don't know enough about the current food scene in Tokyo to decide before we leave. I suspect a lot of what we read here in the US about Japan is out of date - as is a lot of US restaurant information for that matter. I had considered L'Osier - because I enjoyed Bruno Menard's cooking immensely when he was at the Ritz Carlton in Atlanta - but I'd rather go to restaurants that are Japanese or Japanese/Fusion - as opposed to French. Robyn

jib71
Apr 5, 06, 5:56 am
http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362777&highlight=cool+stuff

Pickles
Dec 23, 07, 6:52 am
On the other side of the road is a narrow alley with a sign for "Le Bretagne" ... walk down the alley, past "Le Bretagne" and turn the corner... Seki is on your right).

Completely OT, but Le Bretagne opened a branch near Omotesando. I went there for dinner tonight, it was very good. Great galettes, crepes, and mussels.

Edited to add: Actually, Le Bretagne had been opened in the area for a while, apparently, but around the corner, and in typical Japanese fashion, completely invisible to regular passers-by.


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