Am heading to Nagasaki (by car) and need advice for hotels in Nagasaki and Holland Village (unfortunately can't use any of the domestic package options including hotels).
Firstly, would people recommend staying two nights in Nagasaki and taking a daytrip to HV, or two nights in HV and taking a daytrip to Nagasaki? Or one night in each? The trip will be with my fiance, Mum and Aunt.
Also which hotel recommendations for Nagasaki/ HV? For example, I've heard the HI in Nagasaki is pretty ordinary, but it's pricing at just over 8,000yen on HI.com - whereas the ANA is pricing at 22,500 (one room - two people incl. breakfast). Or perhaps the Prince or maybe someone can recommend a hotel in HV? Budget is flexible - I'm more concerned with a great experience and value. Cheers :) .
BlacKnox
Feb 26, 06, 1:20 am
After researching the usual suspects (e.g. tripadvisor, asiarooms etc) I'm no further in the clue. However Nagasaki Hotel Monterey, Best Western Premier & Prince got ok reviews. Is there any outstanding hotel in Nagasaki or Holland Village?
After an albeit brief search re: Nagasaki, it seems the best places to visit include:
Glovel Mansion
Oura Catholic Church
Sofukuji Temple
Peace Park
Atomic bomb museum
Inasuyama (via ropeway)
Anything else, or any comments on the above? Regards :) .
jib71
Feb 26, 06, 4:42 am
After researching the usual suspects (e.g. tripadvisor, asiarooms etc) I'm no further in the clue. However Nagasaki Hotel Monterey, Best Western Premier & Prince got ok reviews. Is there any outstanding hotel in Nagasaki or Holland Village?.
Nagasaki city publishes a full list:
http://www.at-nagasaki.jp/foreign/english/about/hotels/
I took a look at the reviews on the Japanese pages of rakuten travel (http://web.travel.rakuten.co.jp/portal/my/mt_map.chk?f_no=03&f_dai=japan&f_chu=nagasaki&f_shou=nagasaki&f_sai=&f_heya_su=1&f_kaiin_no=&f_nen1=2006&f_tuki1=6&f_hi1=27&f_nen2=2006&f_tuki2=6&f_hi2=28&f_otona_su=1&f_s1=0&f_s2=0&f_y1=0&f_y2=0&f_y3=0&f_y4=0&f_kaiin_tel=&f_kin=999999&f_setubi=&f_teikei=quick&f_kin2=0&f_sort=&f_image=&f_hyoji=0). They seem to give somewhat higher ratings to Best Western and Prince than to the Monterey. In general, the "Western" style hotels outside of the biggest cities in Japan tend to be much of a muchness... nothing "outstanding"
Another option is to go for a Japanese style ryokan:
(This may work out more expensive, since prices are per person).
http://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/nagasaki/
Many years ago I satyed at the Sakamotoya - which was exceptional.
They did a Shippoku dinner, which is a style of cuisine that may be unique to Nagasaki. (a sequence of many dishes, like kaiseki - but mixing in dishes that the Nagasaki people learned and adapted after centuries of trade with China and Europe).
http://www.sakamotoya.co.jp/index.html
Anything else, or any comments on the above? Regards :) .
Nagasaki City has an excellent English language website, from which you can download brochures and maps:
http://www.at-nagasaki.jp/foreign/english/about/
When you list the sights of Nagasaki, it doesn't amount to much... but there's just something I like about this place. I've been twice and want to go again.
The Glover mansion (and gardens) is worth a visit -
There is more than just Mr. Glover's house to see - The houses and gardens of several foreign residents are restored and open as museums (and they also moved a couple of buildings here - I think one of them is a dorm where foreign shipping companies would house their crews while ships were being repaired). Depending on your enthusiasm for looking around old Western-style houses, you could be done in less than an hour... or you could spend half a day here. I had a bento in a quiet spot overlooking the bay and went into a daydream about all the stuff that Mr. Glover achieved in his time in Japan. He was involved with the Mitsubishi mines and started up the Kirin beer company and was a stalwart of the foreign community... and ... I forget.
The Oura Catholic church is immediately next to the Glover house area. I've never been inside the church, because at the time I visited, there was a wedding in progress. (I have no regrets - the wedding party was coming out and people were throwing confetti and taking off on scooters with horns tooting away - which made this rather severe looking building seem quite cheerful...).
The church has a museum devoted to the history of Christians in the region - including the clandestine Christians who kept up the religion in secret through the Edo period (when it was outlawed). IIRC, the museum also provides a moving history of a missionary (Italian? German?) who ended up being persecuted during WW2 for his pacifist stance. But not much is described in English - so it may be hard to handle.
When you get to the bottom of the hill from the Glover house, there is a building which used to house the Hong Kong & Shanghai bank. It has now been converted into a museum - and I found more chances to day-dream about the lives of the 19th century traders who did their business here:
http://www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~m_mie/hongkong.html
The ropeway trip - I didn't have time. It seems to be just for the view over the city. The view from the Glover Garden is already pretty good...
The Christian Martyrs memorial - not on your list - IMHO rather dull and not worth the visit. If the Christian persecution is what interests you, then YMMV. (Also I recommend "Silence" by Endo Shusaku to evoke this period in history).
Kofukuji and Sofukuji temples - Chinese style. Have not visited them. (Sorry!)
Dejima Island - not on your list - This is no longer an island - but it used to be the small island in Nagasaki harbour, which served as Japan's only link with the West during the years of isolation in the Edo period. (Dutch traders were allowed to maintain a trading post here). Now it houses some exhibits:
http://www1.city.nagasaki.nagasaki.jp/dejima/en/main.html
Megane bashi (Spectacles Bridge) - Bridge shaped like eye-glasses. This bridge is... a bridge. Nice walk by the river - but not much to it...
But the best reason to go (IMHO) is because there is a tiny restaurant nearby - called Hifumi Tei (written 1 2 3 Tei in Kanji 一二三亭). They serve a mini-version of Shippoku for lunch. If you're not doing the shippoku dinner (which can be a huge feast), then I thoroughly recommend this:
http://gourmet.yahoo.co.jp/gourmet/restaurant/Kyushu_Okinawa/Kyushu_Okinawa/guide/0101/M0042010226.html
IIRC the Shippoku lunch set was a couple of thousand yen. They also have Ojiya and noodles and so on for less than 1000 yen at lunch time. ]
The Peace Park - Epicenter of the bomb. Displays the remains of an arch from the old cathedral (They moved it here - it's not in the original location).
But I can't look at it without thinking of the comment by the author Kazuo Ishiguro (who is British - but born in Nagasaki). I believe he once described the statue as looking like it was trying to direct traffic.
The Peace museum -
One of the taxi drivers that I met during my first visit to Nagasaki was a young boy in a nearby town at the time of the bombing. He described the arrival of the survivors in his town to me - and he mentioned that he had never been able to stay more than five minutes in this museum. I'm not surprised - it is a deeply shocking experience (as it should be).
However, my impression was marred by one or two things that I felt were not "balanced" - For example IIRC, the first exhibit after descending the stairs into the museum was a timeline. And the first event in the timeline was the US embargo of Japan. To choose this as the "start point" for the timeline which culminates in the bomb struck me as being controversial. It is in contrast with Hiroshima's museum, which starts its (much more comprehensive) timeline with earlier events in the history of Japan's relations with the world and Hiroshima's role in that. Hiroshima's museum portrays the military build up and the breakdown in relations with America in a less "axe grinding" way (to my mind).
jib71
Feb 26, 06, 4:48 am
Am heading to Nagasaki (by car) and need advice for hotels in Nagasaki and Holland Village (unfortunately can't use any of the domestic package options including hotels).
Firstly, would people recommend staying two nights in Nagasaki and taking a daytrip to HV, or two nights in HV and taking a daytrip to Nagasaki? Or one night in each? The trip will be with my fiance, Mum and Aunt.
Also which hotel recommendations for Nagasaki/ HV? For example, I've heard the HI in Nagasaki is pretty ordinary, but it's pricing at just over 8,000yen on HI.com - whereas the ANA is pricing at 22,500 (one room - two people incl. breakfast). Or perhaps the Prince or maybe someone can recommend a hotel in HV? Budget is flexible - I'm more concerned with a great experience and value. Cheers :) .
I think you posted this after you put up your first post ...
Well - When you say "Holland Village" - Are you refering to Huis Ten Bosch?
If so, then I regret to say that I cannot recommend it.
Against my better judgement, I was dragged along to Huis Ten Bosch. I found it amusing for about an hour. Nice boat trip along the internal canal. Mediocre restaurants selling "theme park" quality versions of Dutch and Nagasaki cuisine.
I've been to the real Holland... and this was like a Disney parody ...
And then I felt... Now let me leave.... please.....
So... in the words of Forrest Gump... that's all I have to say about that.
Q Shoe Guy
Feb 26, 06, 7:58 am
I would might also recommend a trip to Sasebo very interesting American influence :eek: , and Unzen/ Shimabara for the hot springs and volcano. You can also take a ferry across the Ariake sea from Shimabara to Nagasu/Arao and then back on the Kyushu Expressway from there! There is also a an EDO theme park in Ureshino, Saga(in the same general area if that turns your crank. If you are tooling around that area you could also stop in at Arita to buy some beautiful porceline. The "Tokiichi" is during Golden week though......
Also I second a miss on Huis Ten Bosch :td: :td: :td: YMMV.
BlacKnox
Feb 26, 06, 8:08 pm
Thanks for your very detailed reply jib71 and the excellent links ^ , and (as usual) thanks to Q Shoe Guy.
I'll investigate the links tomorrow when I've got some free time. Looks like Huis Ten Bosch is suitable only for a coffee and brief visit.
Q Shoe Guy
Feb 26, 06, 8:19 pm
Thanks for your very detailed reply jib71 and the excellent links ^ , and (as usual) thanks to Q Shoe Guy.
I'll investigate the links tomorrow when I've got some free time. Looks like Huis Ten Bosch is suitable only for a coffee and brief visit.
I don't know how you like to spend your cash but the entrance fees alone will set you back 4000 Yen+-, that will be one expensive cup of coffee......are you interested in the flowers there(Huis Ten Bosch)?
NWA_5479
Feb 28, 06, 4:29 pm
Great stuff Q Shoe Guy and jib71!
First off, skip Huis Ten Bosch. :td: It is expensive and rather poor way to spend your time in Japan. It is also a good Y3000RT and 90 minutes from Nagasaki by train. Go to Holland instead, I hear it is better. ;)
As for hotels in Nagasaki, The New Nagasaki is located at the main station, with great access to the train and street cars. I definately recommend using the streetcars, not taxis. The are 100Y to anywhere in town, including a transfer, and there is enough written in English. The Best Western Premier and Prince are the same thing, or rather in October this year, Best Western bought the Prince. It is very nice, but a little more dislocated from things. It is still very easy access as well, with the street car right in front. The Holiday Inn is good too. It is much smaller, but the rooms are nice, and can be had for a GREAT deal on the internet. I had a friend stay there once, and he liked it (and the price) very much. The ANA Hotel is also very nice, a 2 minute walk from Glover Gardens and Oura Cathedral. A little more pricey though.
As far as what to do:
Glover Garden: Beautiful, and a very nice view of the city.
Oura Cathedral: Only takes 10 minutes or so, but worth the visit.
Atomic Bomb Museum: You have got to go, but it is of course depressing. It is nice to follow the museum with a walk around the sculpture gardens and to see the statue. The epicenter (or hypocenter) is a five minute walk from the park that most people seem to miss.
The Art Museum: I am going to recommend this. It opened last April, and has a great selection as well as being in a beautiful building. Not only is the museum nice (and cheap- Y250 or so), but the park around it is a must see. You must walk around the beautiful bayside park, including the Dejima Warf. Don't bother eating on the Warf unless you want to pay for the location. The food is only okay.
Hamanomachi: This is the main shopping arcade, but if you go a little further of the main streets, you can find a lot of small shops with good stuff. Also, just across the main road with the streetcars is the big night area, with lots of bars and little resturants. If looking for some fellow gaijin, check out Diablo.
If you do want to leave the city, I recommend Unzen as well. If it is in May or later, take the 30 minute ferry out to Iwo-jima (not the WWII one) or Takashima, for some nice beaches that are pretty much deserted outside of August.
I lived in Nagasaki-shi for year and so if you have any questions, feel free. :)
NWA_5479
Feb 28, 06, 4:43 pm
Just to add a bit to what jib71 said:
When you list the sights of Nagasaki, it doesn't amount to much... but there's just something I like about this place. I've been twice and want to go again.
^ ^
When you get to the bottom of the hill from the Glover house, there is a building which used to house the Hong Kong & Shanghai bank.
There is also one of the better Chinese resturants in town there.
The ropeway trip - I didn't have time. It seems to be just for the view over the city. The view from the Glover Garden is already pretty good...
Yup, it is a great view at night, but it is a bit of an inconvenient trip.
The Christian Martyrs memorial - not on your list - IMHO rather dull and not worth the visit. If the Christian persecution is what interests you, then YMMV. (Also I recommend "Silence" by Endo Shusaku to evoke this period in history).
Okay, so I live there a year, and this is one of the only places I didn't get to. Nobody ever really had anything exciting to say about it. I second the recommendation on Endo Shusaku's book. He was from Nagasaki-ken, north about 45 minutes by bus. They have a nice little museum, and the area along the coast is gorgeous.
Kofukuji and Sofukuji temples - Chinese style. Have not visited them. (Sorry!)
These are excellent! It is a very nice walk along "temple row" just behind the Hamanomach area I mentioned. It is also very quiet there, and if you are feeling fit, journey up the hills into the cemetary for what I think is the greatest view of Nagasaki, especially during sunset.
Dejima Island - not on your list - This is no longer an island - but it used to be the small island in Nagasaki harbour, which served as Japan's only link with the West during the years of isolation in the Edo period. (Dutch traders were allowed to maintain a trading post here). Now it houses some exhibits:
http://www1.city.nagasaki.nagasaki.jp/dejima/en/main.html
You can walk through it, but there is nothing much to see. It is still under renovations.
Megane bashi (Spectacles Bridge) - Bridge shaped like eye-glasses. This bridge is... a bridge. Nice walk by the river - but not much to it...
Pretty walk, on the other side of Hamanomachi as the temples.
BlacKnox
Feb 28, 06, 11:04 pm
Cheers NWA_5479 ^ .
I used to live in Amsterdam so Huis Ten Bosch is no big deal for me. I'm going on 19th March and they have a flower festival starting just before then - I thought it might be interesting for haha and oba. Nonetheless the weight of FT opinion as enlightened me otherwise ;) - Huis Ten Bosch is now off the plan, and has been replaced by some other great ideas. Thanks :) .
ksandness
Mar 1, 06, 10:14 pm
Cheers NWA_5479 ^ .
I used to live in Amsterdam so Huis Ten Bosch is no big deal for me. I'm going on 19th March and they have a flower festival starting just before then - I thought it might be interesting for haha and oba. Nonetheless the weight of FT opinion as enlightened me otherwise ;) - Huis Ten Bosch is now off the plan, and has been replaced by some other great ideas. Thanks :) .
Besides, I thought I'd heard that it had closed--or was that some other theme park type place in Kyushu?
It always used to amuse me to see travel blurbs for Nagasaki in Japan, which basically said, "Go to exotic Nagasaki. See brick houses and Catholic churches!"
But it is an interesting and friendly city with a fine natural setting.
jib71
Mar 1, 06, 11:32 pm
Besides, I thought I'd heard that it had closed--or was that some other theme park type place in Kyushu?
So many theme parks have gone under... take your pick... my favourite defunct theme park is "Gulliver's Kingdom" at the foot of mount Fuji (on the site of the old Aum Shinrikyo sarin factory).
Actually, I don't think Huis Ten Bosch ever stopped operating. But it did go bankrupt and so did Seagaia in Miyazaki. (Seagaia operations ceased for a while). Those two might be the most famous examples of "bubble era" theme parks that failed in Japan. Both are now operating under new management.
BTW - Huis Ten Bosch also has a "residential" area with Dutch-style houses for people to live in or use as second homes...
Applefan
Mar 2, 06, 2:05 am
So many theme parks have gone under... take your pick... my favourite defunct theme park is "Gulliver's Kingdom" at the foot of mount Fuji (on the site of the old Aum Shinrikyo sarin factory).
Actually, I don't think Huis Ten Bosch ever stopped operating. But it did go bankrupt and so did Seagaia in Miyazaki. (Seagaia operations ceased for a while). Those two might be the most famous examples of "bubble era" theme parks that failed in Japan. Both are now operating under new management.
BTW - Huis Ten Bosch also has a "residential" area with Dutch-style houses for people to live in or use as second homes...
I stumbled on this website a while ago which I found very interesting.
The ANA hotel is booked out for one of the two nights we'd like to stay. Therefore the choice is either Holiday Inn or Monterey for 2 nights @ this stage. No real price difference. Anyone recommend one over the other? We'll have a car if that makes a difference...
BlacKnox
Mar 5, 06, 4:10 am
Ended up choosing the Monterey and am happy :) .
We've ended up booking a hotchpotch of hotels for this trip for various reasons. We'll be at the Hyatt residential for the first night, 2nd & 3rd nights at the Monterey in Nagasaki, then back at the Zennikkuu (ANA) in Fukuoka for the last night.
Now for the itinerary ;) . Thanks again everyone for your help ^ .
NWA_5479
Mar 18, 06, 1:40 pm
Be sure to keep us updated with you itinerary, and any more questions you have.
BlacKnox
Mar 23, 06, 7:26 pm
Be sure to keep us updated with you itinerary, and any more questions you have.
Had a wonderful stay in Nagasaki (& Fukuoka) - thanks once again everyone for your input ^ .
Some notes:
The Monterey hotel was much like Nagasaki - charming. Centrally located for the Dejima Wharf (boardwalk) & tourist sites, it was a very convenient base. Glover Mansion etc was a 500m walk turning right from the hotel; Chinatown & entertainment district/ shopping was 500m turning left. The tram stop was about 30 meters away, and the boardwalk leading to Dejima wharf about 80 meters. This was good as one night after sightseeing we took some champagne, cheese & crackers to Dejima wharf and used the tables on the second floor (above the restaurants) to enjoy our snacks, the magnificent view and conversation.
The Holiday Inn also has a great location, straddling the shopping/ entertainment district. Next time I go back I'll stay there, but the Monterey was perfect for our first visit and sightseeing. The Best Western was about 2-3 kms from town (heading towards the atomic bomb museum/ peace park) so it's not too convenient to the sites/ city/ entertainment etc. The ANA hotel was at the foot of the Glover Mansion Park, so also not too great if wanting to walk to the city center/ shopping/ entertainment district. Of course you could take a tram though.
Note that it's possible to buy a 1-day tourist passport, for 1,500yen, providing entrance to many museums/ Glover Mansion/ Atomic bomb museum etc. This passport also covers Tram use and represents good value. I think if you bought admittance to the sites individually it would cost about 2,500yen & you'd also have to pay for trams etc.
Restaurants/ Bars were great & cheap for Japan. Didn't go anywhere extravagent, as we had a kaiseki lunch at Kicchou in Fukuoka before we came.
All in all a truely magnificent city which I highly recommend people to visit :) .
Sweet Willie
Apr 2, 06, 11:20 am
The Peace museum -
However, my impression was marred by one or two things that I felt were not "balanced" - For example IIRC, the first exhibit after descending the stairs into the museum was a timeline. And the first event in the timeline was the US embargo of Japan. To choose this as the "start point" for the timeline which culminates in the bomb struck me as being controversial.
During our trip to Japan, there were daily articles in the English print newpapers about how textbooks in Japan are whitewashed and do not accurately portray some of Japan's negative history/actions. (much more whitewashed than other countries)
NWA_5479
Apr 2, 06, 10:03 pm
All in all a truely magnificent city which I highly recommend people to visit :) .
BlacKnox, it sounds like you had a great time. Thanks for reporting back! ^ :)
jpatokal
Apr 3, 06, 9:56 am
During our trip to Japan, there were daily articles in the English print newpapers about how textbooks in Japan are whitewashed and do not accurately portray some of Japan's negative history/actions. (much more whitewashed than other countries)
Japan's textbooks are privately published, schools can choose freely from any approved by the Ministry of Education. The latest flap last year was caused by the MOE approving an unusually jingoistic one by a far-right group... but the book in question isn't actually used by more than 0.1% of Japan's schools!