Over the past months since I joined these boards, Ive seen that some FTalkers go to Buenos Aires once in a while, and others that are thinking/planning to go visit my hometown. For those, and all other curious souls, Im starting a series of short reports on my native city and its (what I think is very cool, hip & trendy) F&B scene. I hope it helps those of you thinking to visit Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires.

-----------

Palermo Hollywood, as this area of Palermo Viejo (Old Palermo) is now called, is the latest off-shoot of what is now almost a classic F&B area of Buenos Aires called Las Caniitas. While the Cannitas area is closer to the newer part of BA, (area close to the Polo Club and the BA horse-race track), Palermo Hollywood is in an older part of town. Im highlighting two restaurants Ive visited during this Easter Holiday 4 day trip of mine. If youre in town and want to have a nice dining out evening, I suggest you try one of these two places:

Central, located on Costa Rica 5644, tel. 4776-7374. Its a bar/restaurant with a hybrid concept, something between a 24hour supermarket & general store with a restaurant (full view of the kitchen) and a bar in the back. A very mixed crown (mostly late 20's to mid 30's) although some fashion minded more mature people are also on display. Food is what I would call cuisine-international. Its a little on the noisy side, but lots to see (and be seen) while you wine/dine. Nice cellar including wines from my favorite Argentine winery (Catena Zapata). About $25-30 per person without wine. Service is OK, but I would expect it to get better as/if the waiters tend to stay with the place a while.

El Salvador, located at El Salvador 5567. Tel 4776-1144. Quiet atmosphere, with Frank Sinatra and some jazzy tunes in the background. Its a semi-formal atmosphere, where chef Charlie Beccar Varela serves a trendy fusion quisine menu, including influences from asian & french orientations. The menu is not large, but features excellent salads and specially prepared deserts. I recommend the chocolate pyramid (its well worth the 20 minute wait). Also features a mostly complete wine list. The service I experienced was excellent, which is uncommon for relatively new places with very young staff. Try having dinner in the main lounge and then moving on to the upper patio for dessert, capuccino and complementary champagne while you wait for the bill.

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Gaucho100K

I recall visiting a wonderful Italian restaurant in an old neighborhood that might have been Palermo Hollywood. I wish I could recall the name.

However any visitor should try Puerto Maria for those huge steaks cooked over an open wood flame.

Stimpy, if you like Italian I would suggest you try out " La Fornarina ", next time you are in Buenos Aires. Its a very well known place in Belgrano, on a street called Arcos.

I just returned from BA and in Puerto Madero is a place called Cabana Las Lilas. Simply awesome steak, the best I had during my stay, although La Chacra was wonderful also. La Chacra is near the Sheraton, Cabana Las Lilas is close the the Hilton. Enjoy!

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HH Dmnd, AA Gld, DT Slvr

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by Gaucho100K:
Over the past months since I joined these boards, Ive seen that some FTalkers go to Buenos Aires once in a while, and others that are thinking/planning to go visit my hometown. For those, and all other curious souls, Im starting a series of short reports on my native city and its (what I think is very cool, hip & trendy) F&B scene. I hope it helps those of you thinking to visit Santa Maria de los Buenos Aires.
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Gaucho100K</font>

I am going to BA later this month for a week with my wife. Are you planning a volume II?

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by The Ric:
I just returned from BA and in Puerto Madero is a place called Cabana Las Lilas. Simply awesome steak, the best I had during my stay, although La Chacra was wonderful also. La Chacra is near the Sheraton, Cabana Las Lilas is close the the Hilton. Enjoy!

</font>

Cabana Las Lilas... best steakhouse in the world. It is also the reason I stay at the Hilton in Puerto Madero section of Buenos Aires. Order their "lomo" cuts and you will be in culinary heaven.

Yes, both La Chacra and Cabania Las Lilas are great places for steak. But, if you get a chance please dont forget to venture into Palermo Hollywood, it has many great places to wine & dine. And now, better than ever !!!! http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/biggrin.gif

Just to answer the above question, Im going back to EZE in 2 weeks, I will be dining around and will do a Vol. II report.

Thanks for the interest.

I just came back from BsAs and can recommend several places: for the best filet mignon I have ever had, El Mirasol next to the Four Seasons. There is also a branch of this small chain in Puerto Madero, they have excellent roasted veal kidneys there.

The Renault Museum is also a restaurant, really good sushi and an Italian menu which I did not order from but which I saw from other diners' plates to be quite nice.

El Biblo (www.elbiblo.com - maybe there is a .ar at the end of that address) is a cozy French place, ask for the table where you sit on the loveseat and have a modified table in front of you. Excellent French and Italian-inspired food.

In Recoleta, there are a bunch of decent restaurants on what I term "Restaurant Row," by my sights the best of the bunch is a traditional parrilla called something like "El Parrilon de Recoleta," you'll recognize it by the waiters' red polo tops with a diagonal red stripe across the front.

-Otto

Any more current post crisis recomendations/

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by best:
Any more current post crisis recommendations/</font>

I just returned from Buenos Aires. It's a wonderful place. I did not see any problems/crisis. People are very, very friendly - very helpful and softspoken. On monday banks started selling dollars, many businesses may ask for higher prices now.
Lived in Etoile, Recoleta, 170 pesos/night. Very nice hotel, nice location.
Went to CENTRAL which Gaucho100K recommended, very stylish place, food O.K., service very friendly; it's worth going. It's in Old Palermo, you have to take a taxi.
Went to ..las Lilas, Mrs. USAFAN's and my steak was not tender and the test was not very good. The ambiance, sitting outside on the water was nice.
Went also to Lola, next to our hotel. Good food nice ambiance.
The best food was in Bourgogne, in Hotel Alvear. Lunch menu incl. a bottle of first class wine (Nobile or so..) Pesos 64. Superb cuisine and service! I would have paid in Paris at least $150 to $250. I don't want this every day, it's somewhat too "elegant".
I purchased "Guide to Buenos Aires" from Buenos Aires Herald; Pesos 16 with delivery to the hotel. Very well done.

thanks USAFAN for the post.

Any others?

Headed out in a week for BA

Sweet Willie,

I'm looking forward to your update.

We've put BA on a list of possible vacation choices this summer.

Anyone know which Sheraton is the best placed property?

Dan

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by dhammer53:
We've put BA on a list of possible vacation choices this summer.
</font>
Buenos Aires has summer now!
You find information on Sheraton BA at the Sheraton Forum; just search for "Buenos Aires".
Actually, I would recommend a hotel in La Recoletta.

Gaucho100K:
We are waiting for more!

Cabanas Las Lilas can be inconsistent. Went on 2 consecutive nights. Ordered 2 baby bifes the 1st night, both "jugoso" or medium rare. My GF's was quite well done (done on one side, medium rare on the other), mine was as ordered. Mushrooms a la provenzal were great. Next night, she had a T-bone that did come out jugoso and was tasty. My bife de chorizo was good but not as good as others I've had (and for considerably less) elsewhere in Argentina. However, the mushrooms were way oversalted the 2nd night.

As for other dining venues, we had an inclusive dinner at the Park Chateau Kempinski. The beef medallions there were just about perfect. Very tender and tasty - one of the 3 best steaks we had (Las Lilas didn't make that list).

There's a little dinner on Talcapueho (sp - same street as the Kempinski) in the Recoleta called Norte. Excellent food regardless of price. Just ARS 19 for 2 including a bottle of wine.

Mrs. USAFAN's and my steak at Las Lilas was also not very good. We did sit outside and had a nice time.
The restaurant at Alvear Palace Hotel is very good, world-class; it's a Relais & Chateaux Restaurant.
Also restaurant LOLA in Recoletta was very good.

Next time in EZE, check out this place...

Divina Patagonia
Honduras 5710
Capital Federal 1417
Tel. 4771-6864

http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/thumbsup.gif http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/thumbsup.gif http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/thumbsup.gif

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Gaucho100K

What kind of food does Divina Patagonia serve?

I'll check it though in June.

Nueva Cocina Patagonica. Lots of meat, but not your regular beef menu - instead a lot of lamb and even some nice fish/seafood choices. The wine list is also quite good.

Service is not that great, though - the 'plate-carriers' strike again... http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/frown.gif

http://www.restaurant.com.ar/

Gaucho, I've registered with the above link and I love the promotions they offer.

Gracias..

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by eperaltaotero:
Gaucho, I've registered with the above link and I love the promotions they offer.

Gracias..

</font>

Aqui estamos para servirte, mano'... http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/biggrin.gif

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by Gaucho100K:
Aqui estamos para servirte, mano'... http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/biggrin.gif</font>

Is Empire Bar the best Thai food in Buenos Aires? I have to yet find anything better than that there yet... there's friend ice cream is excellent. http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/wink.gif

Another hidden gem of a place - Parilla 1880 on Defensa 1663 ? in San Telmo. Stumbled into it while walking up to the Plaza across from it.

I am staying at the Alvear and have heard good things about La Burgogne and La Cave...Since I am a snobby foodie do you recommend these?

Are there any great 5 star restaurants in the Bariloche area? Staying at Llao llao...
Thanks

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Any updates?

Do they have fresh centolla (southern king crab, Lithodes santolla)?

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by Gaucho100K:
Nueva Cocina Patagonica. Lots of meat, but not your regular beef menu - instead a lot of lamb and even some nice fish/seafood choices. The wine list is also quite good.

Service is not that great, though - the 'plate-carriers' strike again... http://www.flyertalk.com/dining/ftdining_forum/frown.gif</font>

There is a relatively new place called Sinclair, its located in Palermo, on the corner of Sinclair and DeMaria. The Chef is the great Ramiro Rodriguez Pardo... and the prices are unbelievable. Excellent both for lunch and dinner. For travellers thinking in Euros or US$, the prices will be a JOKE.

Please, dont miss out on this real gem... @:-) :-: ^ ^

I am staying at the Alvear and have heard good things about La Burgogne and La Cave...Since I am a snobby foodie do you recommend these?


------------------
We went to La Bourgogne, had "business lunch" ... absolutely great food! Comparable to 1-star restaurants in France.
La Cave is only open at night.

Guys,

Check out my restaurant guide at http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar
It even allows you to vote restaurants. There you can find some good places through a nice search engine.
I hope you like it.
Regards,

e

On my past visit to EZE to visit a son working there, we had a fabulous dinner at La Brigada a neighborhood steakhouse where, like in "Cheers" everyone knows your name and the steak, in my experience is superior to Las Lilas (inconsistent IMHO). La Brigada is located in San Telmo in an area not recommendable for an after dinner walk. To complete the picture, prices are extremely reasonable.

Guys,

Check out my restaurant guide at http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar
It even allows you to vote restaurants. There you can find some good places through a nice search engine.
I hope you like it.
Regards,

e

Thanks for posting this.... ^

On my past visit to EZE to visit a son working there, we had a fabulous dinner at La Brigada a neighborhood steakhouse where, like in "Cheers" everyone knows your name and the steak, in my experience is superior to Las Lilas (inconsistent IMHO). La Brigada is located in San Telmo in an area not recommendable for an after dinner walk. To complete the picture, prices are extremely reasonable.

Yes.... absolutely, La Brigada is a great local option. Next time you are in EZE, I suggest you check out El Pobre Luis... ^

Hey guys if you are planning to visit Buenos Aires and you want to experience its nightlife and beautiful woman’s then check out http://www.11y11.com under ‘Agenda de Eventos’ where you will find a complete guide to Buenos aires nightlife and also a restaurant & bar guide.
I hope you like it!

So Folks... after not visiting this thread for about one year, Ive now bookmarked it and will be adding information regularly. I have a good number of new places to report on, and welcome everybody to add their impressions on the places that are recommended here.

Its important to keep in mind that places change, chefs move, and consistent quality is sometimes rather elusive.... so it would be best for all if we could make this thread as active and visited as the other EZE ultimate Q&A thread.

Cheers,
Gaucho100K

Bump !!!!!!!!!!

over on the chowhound international message board, people absolutely rave about this place....anyone here have an opinion?

thanks.

over on the chowhound international message board, people absolutely rave about this place....anyone here have an opinion?

thanks.
We loved it. Went there for dinner in April. Place was packed. Lots of families. Loud, but not disturbingly so. Busy Busy Busy. The waiters leave the kitchen and tell this guy near the door what they're carrying to which table. Then the guy just types into a computer the delivery and that's how your check is totaled. Our waiter was very friendly and helpful with our weak Spanish and made us feel quite comfortable.

We started with an appetizer to share for the table of chorizo sausage and calamari. The chorizo was superb. Entrees for the three of us were:

Grilled cod in Basque sauce
Grilled trout with garlic and parsley
Lomo

Everyone was happy. Washed it down with a bottle of Alfredo Catena La Mision Malbec 2001. After dinner liqueur was on the house while we waited for our cab.

Anyone done Lunch at the Alvear's la Bourgogne? I've heard dinner is good there but how is the lunch? what is the price range?

over on the chowhound international message board, people absolutely rave about this place....anyone here have an opinion?

thanks.

A porteño colleague took me to eat there a couple of weeks ago and our experience was very good. Almost all the clientele were locals on the night we went, service was typical for BsAs (i.e. friendly but you just about have to set yourself on fire to get your waiter's attention), and the food was quite good, especially the cherne (sea bass).

I'm not sure I'd venture here if I didn't speak at least a little but of Spanish. Afterwards, you're close to the bars and pubs on San Martin.

Dora is good and the prior review is correct. :)

[If you have trouble or don't speak Spanish and have a cell phone while there, the solution is to call the hotel's concierge and have them "translate". And that's presuming the unlikely event that no one in the restaurant will help with even rudimentary English.]

Dora sounds awesome...I'm going to check it out in a few weeks on my first EZE trip. And I'll do my best to add my comments on other places afterwards. Thanks for the tips...

Dora is good and the prior review is correct. :)

[If you have trouble or don't speak Spanish and have a cell phone while there, the solution is to call the hotel's concierge and have them "translate". And that's presuming the unlikely event that no one in the restaurant will help with even rudimentary English.]

I have some very rudimentary Spanish at my disposal, but am planning to spend the next five months learning as much as I can... (BTW, does anyone know of a decent self-study program CD or DVD and booklet thing that I can order and learn from home.....?)

Just wondering, though, if the typical foreign travel thing of pointing at other diner's food and gesturing wildly works in BsAs?!

I have some very rudimentary Spanish at my disposal, but am planning to spend the next five months learning as much as I can... (BTW, does anyone know of a decent self-study program CD or DVD and booklet thing that I can order and learn from home.....?)

Just wondering, though, if the typical foreign travel thing of pointing at other diner's food and gesturing wildly works in BsAs?!

Yes, but there are more polite ways of getting the same result. :D

Anyone done Lunch at the Alvear's la Bourgogne? I've heard dinner is good there but how is the lunch? what is the price range?

Prices at La Bourgogne are expensive for EZE standards, but in US$ terms, it will seem a bargain. Ive never had lunch there, though.

I have some very rudimentary Spanish at my disposal, but am planning to spend the next five months learning as much as I can... (BTW, does anyone know of a decent self-study program CD or DVD and booklet thing that I can order and learn from home.....?)

Just wondering, though, if the typical foreign travel thing of pointing at other diner's food and gesturing wildly works in BsAs?!The time invested in learning Spanish will be well worth it. The difference between my trip last October and this April was staggering, mostly because I spent a lot of time improving my Spanish.

I took a beginners course from the USDA Grad School about a year and a half ago. I supplemented between the BA trips with Rosetta Stone cds. They worked right by me. I think they're fully refundable if you don't like them.

This post was originally written for the South America forum on eGullet.com.
Click here to see it. (http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=20657)

__________________________________________________ ___________

This post is a long time coming, but I'll try to size up where we ate, what we ate and our impressions of assorted restaurants in Buenos Aires. This comes from two trips there, in Sept/Oct 2004 (two travelers) and Mar/April 2005 (three travelers). In some cases my notes are not very complete (too busy stuffing ourselves) and only list what we ordered and not necessarily more details about the dishes. Some restaurants that we really enjoyed (Sucre) are not even in the notebooks and were scrawled on paper that I have not yet found. After 9 months, I'm not going to try to recall any missing pieces. Some of the notes are still in the Spanish that we wrote down directly. Others we translated. All prices, where noted, are in US dollars.

I will say that Buenos Aires is a food lover's paradise these days for folks using dollars. There are very talented chefs preparing a variety of foods of all kinds of styles and presentations. Naturally, the beef is the best in the world. Nothing comes close and don't even pretend it does! And if you think something comes close, I'd sooner take the $5, perfectly cooked cut from Argentina over the $50 or more cut elsewhere anyday. (All of our beef was cooked a punto.)

Meals that would be $100 - 200 a head in NY can be had for $25 - 50 in Buenos Aires. All meals (particularly dinner) generally include appetizer, entree, dessert, a bottle of wine and a digestif.

I've only been there twice now, so I may be incorrect with some locations/neighborhoods.

Restaurant Central - Palermo Hollywood
We had lunch. Not very busy. Open restaurant space with an open kitchen that you walk past as you enter. You can eat on couches along the back walls. Tables in the center. There's an outdoor courtyard with service too. Magazine racks on the walls. Help yourself. Funky unisex restrooms with the sinks in the corridor.

Appetizers we ate:
Arepa de Maiz Blanco con Salteado de Portobellos, tomates confit, cebollas caramelizadas y queso brie.
Clasico seviche de langostinos con batata dulce sobre verdes.
Mains:
Salmon rosado sobre tartita dulce de choclo y panceta, puntas de esparrago y emulsion de cilantro.
Tortelli de espinaca y ricotta con salsa suave de pomodoro.
Postre:
Torta tibia de chocolate con helado de crema.

Chiquilin - San Nicolas, cor. Montevideo y Sarmiento
Another lunch. We really liked this place. Seemed like a workhorse type restaurant. Did a little bit of everything and did so with care. Not much in the way of flair, but very competent. They recommended the beef and we didn't stray from that. Fantastic frites! Very nice, helpful servers, with an old world feel. Brick/red walls, natural wood and brass fittings.

I had a half bottle of Vasco Viejo for $2.50. The Mrs. had a half bottle of Lopez Malbec for $5.00. We both liked the Lopez more. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Meals came with a starter salad, and we each had a beef entree. I had the bife de ojo w/frites and the Mrs. had the bife de lomo. We were very happy with our selections. On the table were self-serve bowls of chimichurri that reminded me so much of the self-serve pickles you always used to get at any deli in NY. This was our first taste of chimichurri on the home turf and we loved it. Jalapenos, garlic, parsley and a little oregano all chopped fine and blended in oil.

(Some general observations about Buenos Aires were placed in our notes here that I will indulge you with. We only saw one SUV, a Jeep Cherokee. On the radio, there were almost no ads. Chain restaurants were almost non-existent. They're there but not to any great degree. No smoking tables are in the worst locations of restaurants, never by a window either).

Oviedo - Recoleta/Barrio Norte
Dinner here at a Spanish (northern) restaurant. Seafood the speciality. White tablecloths. Again, another professional, old world style restaurant. Not particularly happy that they kind of bunch English speakers into the same area, but I can understand why. I think. My best guess is that there are only a limited number of servers that understand English so they need to put all of us with poor Spanish together. I found this got much better on my second trip, where I had improved on my Spanish before returning to BA.

Starters:
Grilled squid
Empanada Gallega. The empanada was a bit expensive, considering the time and effort in creating it, but I don't think it was worth it.

Mains:
Hake
Cod
(Don't recall how they were prepared)

Wine: Finca La Anita Chardonnay 2001

Dessert: Marquis de castano. Two slices of chestnut "cake" with cream.

Il Matterello - La Boca
Went here for lunch on a Sunday shortly before the Boca Juniors match. Arrived just in time, too as the place filled up shortly after we arrived. Reminiscent of many Italian restaurants, but I don't recall checkered tablecloths. Great pasta.

Mains:
Ravioli Genovesi al tuco. (carne de vaca, cerdo, pollo (yes a meatfest!) verdura, queso, hongos). $4.75
Lasagna bolognese. (ragu bolognese, salsa blanca, parmesano). $6.00

Wine: It was just some glasses of box wine, malbec Selk'nam. Nothing special, but good.

Desserts:
Della Nonna, crema pastelera de vainilla y chocolate. $3.25
Crostata con pera. $2.00
Excellent espresso and a glass of Sambuca for $1.65

Parilla 1880 - San Telmo
This has become our absolute favorite restaurant in BA. We see no need to go to somewhere like Cabanas las Lilas for a beef-fest when 1880 puts out such excellent food, drink and service. This is THE place to go for your big steak meal. (Be careful with the salt shakers. There are many holes and it pours fast!)

Starters:
Chorizo-a snappy casing and big chunks of meat and fat. Not very spicy. Perfect texture.
Empanadas - the meat mixed with egg and quite tasty. The dough crumbled like a pop-tart!

Meat:
My ojo de bife was as big as my head and cooked perfectly to a delicious medium rare. Hot, tremendously juicy, and incredibly flavorful.
The Mrs. had the lomo de bife, which we referred to as the world's largest filet mignon. Quite lean and tender as expected, but packed a good bit of flavor too!
We also had a huge plate of fritas. Crispy and great consistency. (This is where we learned of the salt shaker issue, because they needed some salt).

Wine:
Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. From the Rutini family of wines, this bottle is found easily in the US and costs here about $8.99.

Dessert: Panqueque de manzana al rhum. Tasty apple pancake/crepe. Heavy on the rum! It could use a dollop of cream to balance it out. Flambeed at our table.

Confiteria Ideal - Suipacha entre Sarmiento y Corrientes
Stopped in for coffee as it was near our hotel. Ended up staying to eat because we got busy watching the tango dancers practicing on the first floor. Beautiful interior that is falling apart. Building is circa 1910. Tons of dark, original wood, brass fans on the walls, brass chandeliers and sconces. Huge mirrors. Peeling paint and ornate ceilings. Not touristy of faux in any way and a very interesting contrast to Cafe Tortoni. Stay for the atmosphere and the show, not the food.

Olsen - Palermo Hollywood
Scandinavian-inspired. Huge list of vodkas by the shot or bottle. We sat on a front deck at a candle-lit table. The whole place kind of reminded me of a ski chalet for some reason.

Starter: 3+6 (tres mas seis) Smoked salmon, lump caviar, smoked trout and 6 corn pancakes with sour cream. $10.00

Mains:
Paprika smoked trout w/parsley and lemon mash, soft egg, avocado, apple and almond crumble. $8.00.
Smoked pork shoulder with pickled peaches, blue cheese and hazelnut sauce, brioche and grilled radicchio. This dish was really good. Loved the peaches.

Wine: Rutini Malbec '03. Not a standout.

Dessert:
White chocolate creme brulee w/citrus and mint salad and carmelized pistachios.
Rhubarb tart w/coconut ice cream.

Dora - Retiro/Centro
Another Spanish restaurant, but this one much less formal than Oviedo. An open floor with lots of long tables crowded with many families of all ages. As the servers leave the kitchen, they pass by a dude at a computer and they call out what dishes they are carrying to which table. The dude at the computer tracks it and that's how your check is calculated. We got a really good vibe in this place and really felt that we found a spot popular with local families.

Starters:
Chorizo - Excellent!
Calamari

Mains:
Grilled cod in Basque sauce.
Grilled trout w/garlic and parsley.
Lomo. (yes, I had the beef, even though they're more known for their fish).

Wine: Alfredo Catena, La Mision Malbec 2001

Chiquilin, again
Dinner at Chiquilin this time. More beef. Two orders of Ojo de Bife and one of Lomo de Bife. Wine: 2002 Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec. Sweet, yet bold. (?). www.luigibosca.com.ar.

La Brigada - San Telmo branch
There are several branches of La Brigada, and I believe the San Telmo one is the original. We went there only because we kept calling to Parilla 1880 and couldn't get them to answer the phone to make our reservation. So we thought we couldn't get there, so let's go somewhere else for another beef fix. We chose La Brigada, and while we liked it, it had nothing on 1880. Lots of regulars come here and you can see the love expressed upon them from the owner. Our server, while courteous, just seemed to be going through the motions with us and was not overly helpful and seemed slightly disinterested in us. A far cry from most other restaurants we enjoyed. The beef was indeed very good. Huge portions at excellent prices. I don't have more details, except our wine was Cadus Malbec 2000 ($60.00, seems high, but that's what the notes say!)

(Some more observations tucked in the notes here, this time on wine. Can't recall exactly what it means but..... Las Ormigas/Reserva 2002. Try this one. Los Arboles Navarro Correas Cabernet Sauv/Malbec 2004. 2002, excellent year for Mendoza wine.)

Parilla 1880, again
They answered the phone and we got in! Our server was Miguel, who was the exact opposite of the server at La Brigada. Took his time with us and was truly helpful in putting up with my Spanish. He wanted us to have a great time.

Starters:
Chorizo
Mixed green salad

Mains
Bife de Chorizo
Lomo.
Entrana.
The Bife de Chorizo was the best choice and we all were jealous of its "owner." Clearly the best flavor of the bunch. My lomo was excellent still, and was perhaps the most tender steak I've ever encountered. Look at it just the right way and it cuts itself for you. The entrana came with a layer of tough fat/membrane that was hard to cut, but the meat itself was delicious. They offered to remove that layer for us to make it easier, but when it came back it was slightly overcooked. We didn't mind though. We had plenty of meat on our plates for us all to get stuffed.

Wine: 2002 Luigi Bosca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon. ($20.00) We went through at least two bottles of this!

We went to Sucre twice, once on each trip, and we really liked it. Hip, funky and great food and drink. Trust the sommelier. I wish I could find my notes for it but I can't. If I do, I'll add it in.

One other place to note, if you're heading towards Peninsula Valdes, here's a restaurant in Puerto Madryn worth mentioning.

La Cheminee - Puerto Madryn, Chubut
Tucked on a side street not far from the beach. Walk through a small entry garden to the door of what looks like a simple house. (It was dark when we got there).

Starters:
Langostinos grillee sobre blinis y crema acida. ($5.00)
Ensalada del campo - tiras de ave, verdes, huevos pochee y panceta tostada. ($3.25)

Mains:
Grilled sea bass with 4 grilled scallops in the shell over carrot puree with julienned red pepper and zucchini.
Seafood and vegetable lasagna.

Wine: Half bottle of Valmont tinto blend.

No dessert, we were too full, but the chocolate mousse with whiskey salsa sounded interesting.

Can't wait to go back and eat more!

Anyone done Lunch at the Alvear's la Bourgogne? I've heard dinner is good there but how is the lunch? what is the price range?

We (Mrs. USAFAN and I) have been there twice.
They offer a business-lunch-menu, which includes (one or two glasses? of) wine. The food is very good (would be a 1-star in Europe), service is perfect.
Was about 60/70ARS per person.

Could someone be so kind as to post the basics of what types/cuts of meat to order at parillas in BUE? Not sure if beef dishes such as "lomo de bife" and "ojo de bife" translate literally. Am curious as to what each of the most popular dishes at parillas would most closely resemble in the typical U.S. ways of serving beef...

Also see people raving about "bife de chorizo," since chorizo here in the U.S. is a seasoned Mexican suasage I'm not sure what to make of that dish at an Argentine parilla. Is chorizo in Argentina different from in Mexico/USA?

I'm currently trying to figure out how to fit as much excellent steak as possible into a too short 3-day trip to BUE!!!

Could someone be so kind as to post the basics of what types/cuts of meat to order at parillas in BUE? Not sure if beef dishes such as "lomo de bife" and "ojo de bife" translate literally. Am curious as to what each of the most popular dishes at parillas would most closely resemble in the typical U.S. ways of serving beef...

Also see people raving about "bife de chorizo," since chorizo here in the U.S. is a seasoned Mexican suasage I'm not sure what to make of that dish at an Argentine parilla. Is chorizo in Argentina different from in Mexico/USA?

I'm currently trying to figure out how to fit as much excellent steak as possible into a too short 3-day trip to BUE!!!

A bife de chorizo is similar to what in the US is known as NY Strip (nothing to do with sausage, not to worry). A bife con lomo is a T bone, and a bife de lomo is sirloin. If I may make a suggestion, this EZE trip may be a good time for you to try different cuts of meats, different from what is served in the USA. Some favorites of mine that I suggest you try are:

Ojo de Bife (rib eye)
Entraña (skirt steak, if Im not mistaken)
Asado de Tira (short ribs)
Vacio (not sure what this is in the USA)
Matambrito (...?)

Have a great trip !!! ^

Spent a few days in EZE last week...fantastic city!

I was at the Sheraton Park Tower and in search of some good food at around 1am. I luckily stumbled upon Dada Bistro on San Martin 941 (tel: 4313-4787 email: dadabistro@arnet.com.ar). It was a fantastic little cafe that I scored some fine Argentine beef in a red wine reduction. My espanol is very suspect, but the very cute hipster waitress, who spoke no english, somehow managed to explain the entire menu to me. By 2:30am, I had met the chef and owner as well...it was a great way to spend my first night in EZE!

Went to Cabana las Lilas...as much as I love my meat, I'm not really a steak house guy. Glad I went there but it's not on my itinerary for future trips. Also hit up Dora and was very pleased--can't complain about 200 pesos for five diners.

The rest of my meals were just at random restaurants and cafes I'd pick by sight...and I wasn't disappointed with any of them. Can't wait to return to the EZE.

bigbrownboy, thanks for sharing your experiences about Buenos Aires. It was trips to EZE alone that got me to EXP on AA the first time. :)

Well, it was this EZE trip that got me to Platinum for the first time...how I'd love to get in another 50K miles worth of trips to EZE before the end of the year to make EXP!

Could someone be so kind as to post the basics of what types/cuts of meat to order at parillas in BUE? Not sure if beef dishes such as "lomo de bife" and "ojo de bife" translate literally. Am curious as to what each of the most popular dishes at parillas would most closely resemble in the typical U.S. ways of serving beef...

Also see people raving about "bife de chorizo," since chorizo here in the U.S. is a seasoned Mexican suasage I'm not sure what to make of that dish at an Argentine parilla. Is chorizo in Argentina different from in Mexico/USA?

I'm currently trying to figure out how to fit as much excellent steak as possible into a too short 3-day trip to BUE!!!
================================================== ====
Bife de chorizo is similar to a New York strip steak.
Chorizo is of course like you said chorizo sausage. (NOT HIGHLY SPICY AS IN MEXICO) In fact, Argentina food is not spicy just wonderful.
Lomo de bife is similar to filet and is very tender.
IT'S ALL GREAT! :)

A bife de chorizo is similar to what in the US is known as NY Strip (nothing to do with sausage, not to worry). A bife con lomo is a T bone, and a bife de lomo is sirloin. If I may make a suggestion, this EZE trip may be a good time for you to try different cuts of meats, different from what is served in the USA. Some favorites of mine that I suggest you try are:

Ojo de Bife (rib eye)
Entraña (skirt steak, if Im not mistaken)
Asado de Tira (short ribs)
Vacio (not sure what this is in the USA)
Matambrito (...?)

Have a great trip !!! ^

Vacio (Is like skirt steak, thin, fatty and delicious)
Matambra (rolled stuffed flank steak)

Definately go to a Parilla restaurant and have Asado (individual grill brought to your table with all cuts of beef, chicken, entrails, chorizo and blood sausage. ) There many of these restaurants throughout the city with prices from A$R 16.00 to A$R 25.00 pesos. Try the Malbec wine it is outstanding and cheap. Local wine is inexpensive and good.
Stay out of the tourist places...Expensive is not necessarily better.
Locals do not cook, everybody goes out to eat. And NEVER before 9:00PM
Can you tell I miss the city? ;) :)

I could be wrong, but skirt steak is the stuff they make fajitas from in Mexico, and in Argentina is called entraña. Vacio is not thin.... its usually a sizeable sized cut. Matambre is the one thats usually thin, and can be either rolled up or just grilled (in this case its not rolled up).

With meals at the meat-house/parrilla of La Cabaña -- in Recoleta -- you can even trace the history of your steak by going to www.control-ar.com and entering the bar code label attached to your food. You get to pull up the cow's history such as its sex, birthdate, origin, breed, weight, diet and more. I think it is the only restaurant in Buenos Aires to serve meat that is individually certified as traceable.

I don't know if this was developed in response to mad cow disease fears or not, but it is interesting nonetheless. Something to check out. (This is NOT Cabaña las Lilas in Puerto Madero.)

Has anybody here been to Nectarine lately....???

Anyone know about this Gastronomic Festival?
http://www.restaurant.com.ar/main/vernota.php?idnota=59

I can't read the Spanish... is it a big festival in one location?

I took my better half to Nectarine for Valenteins Day Dinner. The food was excellent, and despite the fact they were running a full house the service was superb. Still one of the best places (if not the best) for fine dining in Buenos Aires.

Anyone know about this Gastronomic Festival?
http://www.restaurant.com.ar/main/vernota.php?idnota=59

I can't read the Spanish... is it a big festival in one location?

Im not sure this is very big.... as Ive only realized this was going on after reading your post. Having said that, I was out of town for 4 weeks on vacation so perhaps I missed all the PR that they did before this event launched. This thing seems to be some sort of tasting dinner promotion program, it runs from Jan 4th until Feb 28th at a number of participating restaurant and wine stores. Special tasting menus are available at participating restaurants and accoring to a pre-arranged schedule. It appears that these tasting menus are offered at a promotional price.

Detailed calendar of events is here (sorry, only Spanish it seems):

http://www.restaurant.com.ar/main/vernota.php?idnota=42

Special terms & conditions apply. Please note I have not read all the fine print and I know only a few of the restaurants in this promotion by name.

Sorry for not being more help with this specific issue.

Are there any great 5 star restaurants in the Bariloche area? Staying at Llao llao...

Not sure how many stars it has, but one of the best meals I've ever had was in Bariloche was at a small parrilla (steak house) called El Boliche de Alberto at Villegas 347. I had a 1/2 bottle of wine, a sausage appetizer, a 10 oz filet (that was the small one!) and a side salad. Total of the bill was 34 Argentina pesos, which comes out to about 15 dollars (back in 2003).

Greg

Just wanted to add that during our last visit to Nectarine, we had the 7 course chef tasting menu, which is offered at AR$170 (pesos) per person. This is approx US$55, and gives everybody a clear idea of what sorts of values you can get in Fine Dining here in Buenos Aires.

Could someone be so kind as to post the basics of what types/cuts of meat to order at parillas in BUE? Not sure if beef dishes such as "lomo de bife" and "ojo de bife" translate literally. Am curious as to what each of the most popular dishes at parillas would most closely resemble in the typical U.S. ways of serving beef...

Also see people raving about "bife de chorizo," since chorizo here in the U.S. is a seasoned Mexican suasage I'm not sure what to make of that dish at an Argentine parilla. Is chorizo in Argentina different from in Mexico/USA?


I "cut and printed" the following from somewhere a while back and placed it in my "Buenos Aires file" and don't recall the scource...

"The finest cut of beef, and likely to be the highest priced -- though ridiculously inexpensive by international standards -- is Bife de Lomo which equates to Eye Fillet. The most popular cut is Bife de Chorozo, a steak cut off the rib and somewhat similar to Sirloin or Porterhouse. T-bone steak has its equivalent in Bife de Costilla, and is generally enormous. Rib Roast, known as Tira de Asado, is the second most popular cut with Portenos. When grilled on the spit, this cut will be thick and short, if cooked on the char-grill it will be thinner and longer.

Cheaper cuts not generally used for roasting in other countries -- shank, brisket or chuck -- produces a budget-priced steak known as Churrasco. It is inexpensive, yet tasty. The Parrillas will also offer grilled chicken (pollo), pork (Cerdo), kidneys (Rinones), sweetbreads (Mollejas), and a marvelous Argentine sausage called Chorizo. Ask for your beef "bien hecho" if you want it well done, "al punto" if you prefer it medium and "poco hecho" if you like it rare. The bottom part of sirloin porterhouse is known as "vacio" and the flank is called "matambre." Fish is also frequently available at some of the better restaurants. Portenos also like offal and most menus feature lamb's testicles (creadillas), intestines (chinchulines) and udder (ubre)."

I'm in BsAs as I write this and am supposed to meet a Bloke for lunch at La Chacra in a couple days, so I brought out the above for reference!

I "cut and printed" the following from somewhere a while back and placed it in my "Buenos Aires file" and don't recall the scource...


It's from here:

http://www.sallys-place.com/travel/s_america/buenos_aires.htm

Did a tour of the assumed best places for Sushi in town, and must unfortunatetly report that the news is not good. A very hyped up and publicized place, Osaka, is a joke. No variety in terms of fish, high prices (for EZE standards), and lousy service. Nice place to see and be seen, but if you go for the food you will be dissapointed. Stay away.

Also visited the restaurant of the Japanese Garden (Jardin Japones). Very high prices, good service but the sushi (while better than Osaka) is still sub par. Due to the lack of fresh tuna, they use canned tuna in some of their rolls.... :eek: (at least them come clean with this on the menu). Stay away from the Udon... instead of the real japanese noodles they are using hard pasta... :mad:

The solution to all this..... when craving for sushi in EZE, settle for Spanish style seafood instead.... head to Oviedo, Jose Luis, Nemo or the Club Vasco Frances.

Did a tour of the assumed best places for Sushi in town, and must unfortunatetly report that the news is not good. A very hyped up and publicized place, Osaka, is a joke. No variety in terms of fish, high prices (for EZE standards), and lousy service. Nice place to see and be seen, but if you go for the food you will be dissapointed. Stay away.

Also visited the restaurant of the Japanese Garden (Jardin Japones). Very high prices, good service but the sushi (while better than Osaka) is still sub par. Due to the lack of fresh tuna, they use canned tuna in some of their rolls.... :eek: (at least them come clean with this on the menu). Stay away from the Udon... instead of the real japanese noodles they are using hard pasta... :mad:

The solution to all this..... when craving for sushi in EZE, settle for Spanish style seafood instead.... head to Oviedo, Jose Luis, Nemo or the Club Vasco Frances.

Gaucho, a friend told me that there was a Japanese Restaurant in the Food Court, of all places, in the upscale Paseo Alcorta on the upper level, that had decent sushi! Have you heard of such a place? In any event, since I'm in BsAs as I write this, I'll stick to the great beef, especially since President Nestor Kirchner placed a 6 month ban on Argentine beef exports effective last Friday! http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=10000086&sid=aUjDuz7eIk3w&refer=latin_america

With the huge Japanese community in Southern California, we have a large number of really good sushi places to choose from, so I'll wait until I return home next week to visit my favorite, Asanebo in Studio City or Tama Sushi a few doors down!

Gaucho, a friend told me that there was a Japanese Restaurant in the Food Court, of all places, in the upscale Paseo Alcorta on the upper level, that had decent sushi! Have you heard of such a place? In any event, since I'm in BsAs as I write this, I'll stick to the great beef, especially since President Nestor Kirchner placed a 6 month ban on Argentine beef exports effective last Friday! http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=10000086&sid=aUjDuz7eIk3w&refer=latin_america

With the huge Japanese community in Southern California, we have a large number of really good sushi places to choose from, so I'll wait until I return home next week to visit my favorite, Asanebo in Studio City or Tama Sushi a few doors down!

Thanks for the sushi recommendation, although I must say that I am very very sceptical. Regarding the ban on exports, please note that this measure is being contested in court, and will most probably not hold up. Also, it must be said that all Hilton Quota exports, and all special bilateral trade agreements specific to beef are not affected by this measure so there isnt really much to worry about.

I had some very memorable meals during my recent(march '06)virgin trip o Buenos Aires.
Some of the more memorable meals:
Lunch at Casa Rocha-a former mansion off Florida now serving lunch.Like eating in a turn of the century private home.
Lunch at Petanque on Defensa in San Telmo-great frinch bistro in a fantastic atmosphere.
Dinner at Pariila 1880 in San Telmo-not fancy,but great food with some very nice local folks.
Dinner at Sanjuanino in Recoleta-another great neighborhood place.Very good "down home"argentinian restaurant with very friendly staff.
Dinner at Nectarine-One of the finest meals we have ever had.The care,love and pride that goes into the food as well as the great service made our meal there one we will always remember.
Dinner at La Cabrera in Palermo-Not only great meat,this parrilla also presents wonderful sides with your entree.And the Dolce de Lece is fantastic.
All of these were incredibly inexpensive by US standards.Nectarine was the pricest but that was still a third of a comperable meal in LA-if you could find a place that put so much work into the food.
LOVED Buenos Aires!

i've had some great meals in BA recently too. although my budget is quite low!

cafe san juan in san telmo was probably the best. great modern argentine and world cuisine, although i think the menu changes every night, it just amounts to a specials board, which means although the choice isn't huge, it will atleast be a different experience each time you go. the food was great though.

i like manolo in san telmo for a really really cheap place to eat. they do lomo or bife de chorizo steaks in really interesting sauces or with different fillings. different to the average parilla. or mounds of good pasta. all in a very packed and atmospheric environment, lots of portenos there, lots of football memorabilia on the walls.

el establo near plaza san martin/florida shopping street, on paraguay, is my favourite parilla restaurant. and the most expensive place i will metion today, though not too expsensive, and still good value.

for something different, bangalore indian curry house and pub in palermo (corner of humboldt and niceto vega) does the best curries i have tasted in BA, plus it is cheaper than the othe places. my favourite there is the beef vindaloo. they also do nice veggie curries. and proper pìnts of ale or bitter to wash it down with!

thats all i can think of right now. i will be back another time with more.

Thanks for the curry recommendations, I will check it out next week when I return to EZE.

I will fly my better half to BA for an extended w/end arriving Sat 5/13 and Leaving Wed 5/17. Any place you could recommend for a few barely-above-beginner tango lessons?

As you will read in many guidebooks, places change (sometimes for better, other times for worse).

This time, Im afraid I have to report on a very negative change in what was once a great place to have a meal. Sinclair restaurant is definetely not on my recommendated list any more.

Went there last night with two other couples and the meal was a scandal. Prices are (for EZE standards) very high and everybody was greatly dissapointed. Service was also sub par, with the wine not served at the proper temperature, and less than adequate glassware for an establishment of this caliber and price range.

I hosted a wine dinner a couple of days back at Nectarine. We sat down with Chef Rodrigo Sieiro and designed a 9 course tasting menu around 19 wines. Amazing food, and excellent service. Glad to report that Nectarine is still one of the best high end restaurants in Buenos Aires.

Just wanted to add that during our last visit to Nectarine, we had the 7 course chef tasting menu, which is offered at AR$170 (pesos) per person. This is approx US$55, and gives everybody a clear idea of what sorts of values you can get in Fine Dining here in Buenos Aires.
Gaucho, Nectarine definitely sounds like one of the places I need to hit for the first time on my next visit. Does that AR$170 include any wine pairings?

Gaucho, Nectarine definitely sounds like one of the places I need to hit for the first time on my next visit. Does that AR$170 include any wine pairings?

No, that price was for food only. They have a good wine list at reasonable prices (for a restaurant of this caliber).

For an authentic Buenos Aires restaurant thats not toooo touristy, I suggest Parrilla 1880. Down to earth pricing and an ample menu which includes almost all of the staple fare that Buenos Aires residents crave for.

Parilla 1880
Defensa 1665
San Telmo
Ciudad de Buenos Aires
Tel. 4307-2746

Hi Gaucho 100K
I would like very much to visit Nectarine.
Can you post it´s adress?

Tks

Hi Gaucho 100K
I would like very much to visit Nectarine.
Can you post it´s adress?

Tks

Here you go...

Nectarine
Vicente López 1661
Recoleta
Tel. 4813-6993

For an authentic Buenos Aires restaurant thats not toooo touristy, I suggest Parrilla 1880. Down to earth pricing and an ample menu which includes almost all of the staple fare that Buenos Aires residents crave for.

Parilla 1880
Defensa 1665
San Telmo
Ciudad de Buenos Aires
Tel. 4307-2746
I heartily second that!
Met some very nice locals there-this place has sooooo much soul!And the food is good home style food,huge portions,and such nice service.
Cab Drivers may not know the place,make sure you have the address and phone number.

Here you go...

Nectarine
Vicente López 1661
Recoleta
Tel. 4813-6993
Be aware that it is at the end of an arcade-not right on the street.
Very interesting neighborhood.

I heartily second that!
Met some very nice locals there-this place has sooooo much soul!And the food is good home style food,huge portions,and such nice service.
Cab Drivers may not know the place,make sure you have the address and phone number.

Very glad the recommendation hit the spot. Your tip on having the exact address is a good one. The exact cross streets is also a good thing to have in case the cabbie doesnt have the exact location in mind.

Ive become a regular at Nemo, one of the best places to have fish in Buenos Aires. Nemo is a 100% local restaurant, in the Palermo area. Fished is exclusively selected by the chef/owner and grilled to perfection. Everything is very fresh, and prices are very reasonable. Also, great homemade pasta with fresh seafood.

Only downside is perhaps that its a little noisy, and the tables are very small (Manhattan restaurant sized tables) - and the wine list could use some improvement.

Nemo - Bar de Mar
Cabello 3672
Palermo - Ciudad de Buenos Aires
Tel. 4802-5308 / 4803-5878

Here is another recommendation... Im usually quite a contrarian when it comes to fashionable restaurants, most of the time they are all show and nothing good comes from the kitchen, in this case, its different.

Mott - Cocina de Mercado
El Salvador 4685
Tel. 4833-4306/4325

Plus, its in the heart of Palermo Soho... :D ^ Open for both lunch and dinner.

Just found this thread after 4 years of visiting Buenos Aires (and living here part time now)

Surprised no one has mentioned Gran Bar Danzon yet, which has been one of my favorites over the years. Unfortunately I don't think they're as good as they used to be - food and service have both slipped since I first started going - but I still like the ambience they pull off, and they have one of the best wine lists of Argentina - at reasonable prices, too. I'd still recommend it, and go almost weekly when I'm here (that's down from 2-3x/week!)

From the same ownership of Danzon also come Sucre and Uriarte - both good but I don't find myself going to either as often.

Newer to the scene is Casa Cruz which blew me away with how good it was when I went there in March. Sadly, my last two visits have been somewhat disappointing (even the risotto, which was fantastic three months ago, was entirely unexceptional last week when I tasted it again.

Since Faena Hotel+Universe opened a year or two ago, I would have thought their restaurants would receive at least a mention in here. Mercado has been a pleaser for me in the last few months, but about a month ago they raised all their prices 50% without touching anything else, so I don't think they're worth it any more. The all-white Bistro never did much for me, although to be honest I've not actually eaten there.

A cool place with most likely the finest bartender in all of Argentina is Green Bamboo - a sort of Vietnamese asian-fusion place. Good food, and Peter is the kind of old-school bartender that you almost never find. From the way he hand cracks his ice, to the look of delight that spreads across his face as he assembles his ingredients in his shaker and shakes away, you can tell he takes his cocktails seriously, and when you taste them, you'll appreciate the difference it makes.

Finally, new to the scene and a strong recommend from me is Budabar in Puerto Madero. Great food and a few consistency issues that shouldn't be too surprising in a place this young (they opened in the last 2-3 months) but I expect good things from them. I love their shellfish curry...

I'll visit Nectarine tonight for the first time. So many other places to mention, but this post is too long already.

Here is another recommendation... Im usually quite a contrarian when it comes to fashionable restaurants, most of the time they are all show and nothing good comes from the kitchen, in this case, its different.

Mott - Cocina de Mercado
El Salvador 4685
Tel. 4833-4306/4325

Plus, its in the heart of Palermo Soho... :D ^ Open for both lunch and dinner.
I can't resist one last comment - I've only been to Mott for lunch (twice actually) and I wasn't too impressed - maybe for dinner it's better. On the same street I'd pick Cluny, a French bistro style place, which I find a steal for lunch at about 30 pesos (ten dollars) for a top-notch appetizer, main, dessert, and glass of wine. I'm a big fan of their squash soup and white salmon at lunch time, although I am starting to wish they'd mix their prix-fixe menu up a little from time to time. I've had the same thing there about 5 times in the last 2-3 months.

Another nice spot but in Palermo Hollywood is Olsen - same chef as Casa Cruz and I love the Scandinavian vibe to hang out in. My one dinner there was not so pleasing, but I've enjoyed lunch as well as afternoon snacks (their salmon sandwich is amazing, as is their 5+5 tasting platter of little canapes matched with little vodka-based shots).

Okay, enough now. I'm getting hungry and won't be at Nectarine for another 2 1/2 hours.

Just found this thread after 4 years of visiting Buenos Aires (and living here part time now)

Surprised no one has mentioned Gran Bar Danzon yet, which has been one of my favorites over the years. Unfortunately I don't think they're as good as they used to be - food and service have both slipped since I first started going - but I still like the ambience they pull off, and they have one of the best wine lists of Argentina - at reasonable prices, too. I'd still recommend it, and go almost weekly when I'm here (that's down from 2-3x/week!)

From the same ownership of Danzon also come Sucre and Uriarte - both good but I don't find myself going to either as often.

Newer to the scene is Casa Cruz which blew me away with how good it was when I went there in March. Sadly, my last two visits have been somewhat disappointing (even the risotto, which was fantastic three months ago, was entirely unexceptional last week when I tasted it again.

Since Faena Hotel+Universe opened a year or two ago, I would have thought their restaurants would receive at least a mention in here. Mercado has been a pleaser for me in the last few months, but about a month ago they raised all their prices 50% without touching anything else, so I don't think they're worth it any more. The all-white Bistro never did much for me, although to be honest I've not actually eaten there.

A cool place with most likely the finest bartender in all of Argentina is Green Bamboo - a sort of Vietnamese asian-fusion place. Good food, and Peter is the kind of old-school bartender that you almost never find. From the way he hand cracks his ice, to the look of delight that spreads across his face as he assembles his ingredients in his shaker and shakes away, you can tell he takes his cocktails seriously, and when you taste them, you'll appreciate the difference it makes.

Finally, new to the scene and a strong recommend from me is Budabar in Puerto Madero. Great food and a few consistency issues that shouldn't be too surprising in a place this young (they opened in the last 2-3 months) but I expect good things from them. I love their shellfish curry...

I'll visit Nectarine tonight for the first time. So many other places to mention, but this post is too long already.

Danzon was one of my all time favorites when it first opened, but as you correctly point out it has seen better days. Im afraid I cant agree with you on Green Bamboo... for me, its just another stain on the Asian food scene here in Buenos Aires which (most unfortunatetly) is very poor across the board. Budabar is promising, especially because Rodrigo Sieiro and Mariana Torta are now involved as part of the new management/operational teams.

Forgot to address the Faena Hotel. I think that the value proposition at the Faena tends to be pathetic. Plus, for a foreign visitor to Buenos Aires, its the last place I would recommend.... alas, I can see why the proposition may be appealing to some. Now that I read about the price increases that have been implemented, the value proposition is even worse. I guess this proves that nothing is soo bad it cannot get... well, you know where Im heading.

I can't resist one last comment - I've only been to Mott for lunch (twice actually) and I wasn't too impressed - maybe for dinner it's better. On the same street I'd pick Cluny, a French bistro style place, which I find a steal for lunch at about 30 pesos (ten dollars) for a top-notch appetizer, main, dessert, and glass of wine. I'm a big fan of their squash soup and white salmon at lunch time, although I am starting to wish they'd mix their prix-fixe menu up a little from time to time. I've had the same thing there about 5 times in the last 2-3 months.


Thanks for the heads up... I will check out Mott for lunch and see if they are sub par. To be honest, Ive always been very impressed but its good to be on ones heels.

I'm stupid. Does F&B scene stand for Food and Beverage?

(embarassment to the max)
R.

You're correct .... so no need to be embarassed. :)

I thought it was Fetish & Bondage....:D

On my trip the highlight was two lunches at Sabot, only open M-F at lunch 13-16. Great place where business people have lunch. About 3-5 min walk from Galerias Pacifico.

Has anybody been to Cabaña Las Lilas lately...?

Has anybody been to Cabaña Las Lilas lately...?

Was there two weeks ago for lunch:
-Lomo was very tasty and tender
-Service was OK, not great
-Nice ambiente, sitting outside
-Lots of "dressed-up-folks" for business lunch

BTW, I saw on their business card that they also own

Figueira Rubaiyat
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1738
Jardim Paulista
São Paulo
Tel: + 55 (11) 3063-3888
Built around a courtyard with a giant fig tree (figueira)

It's as famous as Cabana .... nice ambiente too ... nice, stylish area

Thats what Economist wites about Cabana ...:

Restaurants
Sacred cow

Cabaña las Lilas
Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 516
Buenos Aires
Tel: +54 (0) 11 4313-1336
Many Argentines like nothing better than tucking into a hunk of grilled beef, and those who can afford it head to Las Lilas, one of the city’s most famous parrillas (grill restaurants). Popular with tourists and businessmen alike, the restaurant is decked out in rustic wood and leather, but is a distinctly upmarket take on the national cuisine. The steaks come direct from the company’s own farm.

It’s in the rejuvenated Puerto Madero docklands area, and prices are thus much higher than in the more down-at-heel (some would say authentic) neighbourhood parrillas. But if you’re a fan of a fine, juicy cut of steak, you can do no better than draw up a chair here.

Here's my take on four Buenos Aires restaurants where we ate last week.

Meat/grill restaurants
ILuvParis recommended both of these. I was very happy with each.

El Establo, Paraguay 489 and San Martin
1 block from Marriott and one block from Calle Florida
Very traditional Argentinean steakhouse. We didn't have a reservation; just came in and they found a table. The meats were great, and we loved a green bean/orange salad. (We were at the end of our Argentina trip, and craving vegetables.) I'd happily return.

La Brigada, San Telmo at Estados Unidos 465 at Bolivar
Another excellent Argentinean steakhouse. I had sabayon for dessert, which was sublime. Place took reservations; fortunate we made one as every table had a reserved sign on it and they were turning folks away.

Restaurants that are not steakhouses
Sucre was highly recommended in the New York Times and elsewhere. We were disappointed. Yes, it was very chic, but the food was not exceptionally interesting. I've got lots of restaurants in California serving as good or better food. Also, it was a super hassle getting a taxi afterwards. It is in a row of several restaurants, but there were no taxis dropping folks off. It was a half hour wait for the car the restaurant reluctantly called.

Social Paraiso (www.socialparaiso.com.ar), Honduras 5182
This was a winner! We would have gone again, had we stayed in Buenos Aires another day. It was recommended in United's "3 Perfect Days", Bon Apetit, Conde Nast Traveller, and Travel & Leisure as a Med-style bistro. It has a very affordable 2 course lunch menu for 18 pesos, with 2 choices for starters and 2 for mains. We tried it all, and it was superb. Desserts were superbly done, particularly their apple/ice cream dessert - very thinly sliced apple dried in the oven, then stacked with homemade ice cream between each slice. It is family owned; the mother of the brothers who own it waited on us and translated the menu.

I echo the good review of La Cabaña in San Telmo. Ive always had a great meal there.

Went to Osaka last night and I was actually quite pleased... I guess they have been doing their homework.

Has anyone been here? Read about it in an article on Francis Mallman. Sounds like a great place, in La Boca and I would be interested in comments or experiences. Worth going out of the way for?

Has anyone been here? Read about it in an article on Francis Mallman. Sounds like a great place, in La Boca and I would be interested in comments or experiences. Worth going out of the way for?

I havent been there yet... so please take my comments with a pinch of salt. Ive heard mixed reviews, which kind of coincides with my personal experience with all of Mallmann´s joints - with the notable exception of his Mendoza restaurant which Ive found to be the most consistent.

Patagonia Sur is on the pricey side for EZE standards, but to most visitors it will still be a bargain. Please note that going to La Boca is not out of the way, its only a max. 20 minute taxi drive from where most visitors stay in Buenos Aires.

That, and La Boca isn't a place where you need to spend a lot of time at, if you're worried about time.

That, and La Boca isn't a place where you need to spend a lot of time at, if you're worried about time.

Thanks (and also to Gaucho100K). I too have heard about Mallman's Mendoza place, but we are only going to be in BA. As much as I like a good dinner I have gotten a bit jaded about making large, or arduous, or time consuming ventures for dinner when there a lot of wonderful places (i.e. in BA). We will have a couple of periods there on either side of a trip to Patagonia and am trying to know what is worth going out of my way for. There will be lots around the Four Seasons, thought I am partial to less trendy spots :)

That, and La Boca isn't a place where you need to spend a lot of time at, if you're worried about time.

Well... this will depend strongly on what your interests are. If Tango is big on your list, then La Boca is a very important place.... also, if you are interested in the arts, then the place that inspired Benito Quinquela Martin deserves at least a good couple of hours of walking around and visiting the various places that display his works, etc.

I would not be too quick to write off La Boca just like that.

Well... this will depend strongly on what your interests are. If Tango is big on your list, then La Boca is a very important place.... also, if you are interested in the arts, then the place that inspired Benito Quinquela Martin deserves at least a good couple of hours of walking around and visiting the various places that display his works, etc.

I would not be too quick to write off La Boca just like that.

Sorry to make it sound like I wrote it off. Quite simply, when I visited, there was a lot of interesting things there, just not anything very time consuming. Obviously, I was not aware of the more fine aspects of surrounding attractions, such as Martin. :)

We had lunch at a cafe in la Boca - right in the center- had a female tango singer who took requests- a delightful staff- you could watch the life of la Boca go by from the front patio - interesting and sometimes poignant folks, not unlike where i grew up, Brooklyn, - this was on my first visit 3 years ago-
on my last visit in january 2006, on a similiar weekday, sinilar time of year, I was greeted with several huge tourbuses and stalls of souvenir stands, - not the la boca I loved and remembered and gone was my tango singer!!!!
went to Plaza dorrego and found sort of the same feeling again back there. I hope BA never loses it to mass tourism.

Hello all,
Right this very minute I'm in BsAs and I have to tell you about a wonderful restaurant you might never find on your own. Matter of fact when the taxi driver arrived at the address it didn't even look as if there were a restaurant there.

It's called Pan y Teatro at Las Casas 4095. Tel: 4924-6920 / 4922-0055 and it's in the Bodeo section of town. Here's the link. (http://www.panyteatro.com.ar/)

A friend of my sister's likes to take the subway to the end without knowing where he's going, and then walks "home" from there, checking things out and finding things. That's how he found this wonderful restaurant.

We put ourselves in the hands of the owner, Senor Marin, and were served a delightful series of delectable food. We started with an antipasto salad of mild olives, artichoke hearts, grilled bell peppers and, um, oh, I don't know what else, bread and cheese... a hard, almost peccorino cheese, and olive oil.
Then a knuckle (some sort of bone) of cold lamb, some ribs of pork, some empanadas, a salad of greens and thinly sliced apple, and then we begged him to stop. He ended with sweets, a selection of glazed fruits, some intense ice cream, some cheese and well, again, I'm not sure and coffee.

We also drank. Chandon Champagne (about $10 usd) 2 bottles of white and a bottle of his very very best Cabernet Sauvignon (now that was $50 USD but it was the smoothest, most robust red I've drunk in a while.)

The atmosphere is so very rich, with cloth covered lights hanging from the ceiling, beautiful, rich wooden tables, surrounded by art: in this instance there were huge (4x6') photographs for sale in the $400 USD range. I guess the art changes regularly as well as the medium.

So, now we're off to dinner. It's almost 8:30 and we're meeting some locals at their apartment for aperitifs and then they're taking us to their favorite place for beef.

Oh my god, I'm going to blow up like a blimp before this week is out. And I'm loving it.

Adios for now.
Rita

Rita,

Thanks for the excellent review... I must confess to never have been to this restaurant, but your experience has prompted me to place this establishment on top of my to-do restaurant list for 2007.

Happy New Year to everybody!!
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Here you go...

Nectarine
Vicente López 1661
Recoleta
Tel. 4813-6993

Thank you Gaucho100K and everybody else who recommended this restaurant. We had a fantastic dinner at Nectarine two weeks ago, we really loved the food there. Wine list seemed good and we got good recommendations on which wines to try.

We're back home in Finland again and are already planning a new trip to Buenos Aires, we really love the place. And next time we'll try to see more of Argentina too.

Glad you enjoyed Nectarine.... IMHO Rodrigo Sieiro (chef) and Mariana Torta (sommeliere) run an excellent operation, its one of the best fine dining experiences in town.

My sister went to dinner at Divina Patagonia 2 nights ago (Honduras 5710) and didn't rave about it. She said it was nice. Someone in her group had lamb and said it was excellent. But again, she's raved about some BsAs restaurants, and this isn't top of her list. OK, but just not fabulous.


Rita

Funny... my last visit to Divina Patagonia a few days before Xmas was also rather dissapointing.

Im happy to report that there is a Japanese Restaurant that I dare recommend here in Buenos Aires. Its not a fancy place, but they do have an authentic menu, good attention to detail and they do serve tuna and other difficult to obtain dishes when they get delivery... which is hard to predict.

Irifune
Paraguay 412
Tel: 4312-8787

Its located in the center of town, close to Av. Leandro Alem and Cordoba. Dont mistake it with Morizono, which is on the street corner (stay away from Morizono).

Gaucho this is great, im going to have to start making a list of all these places to try. What do you think of Empire Thai? I used to live nearby and have had pretty good luck there, and they have speedy service.

Chris

Gaucho this is great, im going to have to start making a list of all these places to try. What do you think of Empire Thai? I used to live nearby and have had pretty good luck there, and they have speedy service.


Chris, Ive never been to Empire Thai. Where is it located?

tres sargentos, i just walked down libertador and hang a right on tres sargentos i think its 300 something. its run by an american guy.

Thanks for the tip, I will check it out when Im back from my travels in March.

From Today's NYT a nice article on BS AS, with a nice link to a blog about Palermo:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/02/04/travel/04culture.html

trendypalermoviejo.blogspot.com.

Thanks for providing the link. Interesting article, although I cannot agree with the authors recommendation of Casa Cruz, which I find is outrageously expensive for Buenos Aires standards and sub-par for quality of food & overall service. Casa Cruz is a great place to see and be seen, but its no culinary experience.

Im happy to report that there is a Japanese Restaurant that I dare recommend here in Buenos Aires. Its not a fancy place, but they do have an authentic menu, good attention to detail and they do serve tuna and other difficult to obtain dishes when they get delivery... which is hard to predict.

Irifune
Paraguay 412
Tel: 4312-8787

Its located in the center of town, close to Av. Leandro Alem and Cordoba. Dont mistake it with Morizono, which is on the street corner (stay away from Morizono).

Wow, I ate there and it was really dreadful, in my opinion. I think your former advice to stay away from Japanese food in BA was spot on!

Gaucho, thoroughly enjoyed all your numerous posts in the forum.
I am on my way down to Argentina in about 10 days and
read recently about the growing popularity of fine dining
in private houses. Casa Salt Shaker being one example.
Have you had much experience of these establishments?
If so are there many in the market? I find the concept very
appealing.

I must add that BA is the best value place on earth for food.
I entirely agree with your sentiments about Asian food. The same
applies in Chile. Better off sticking to Singapore or the US, the latter especially for sushi.

I did visit BA on one occasion before the economic crisis and it was incredible how my attitude changed with respect to the appeal of its fine dining once the prices were divided by 3. Travellers are mad if they dont take the opportunity to explore this incredible part of the world which must also include both Chile and Peru which are all incredibly good value.

I look forward to visiting your establishment for some wine tasting when I make it into town.

Gaucho, thoroughly enjoyed all your numerous posts in the forum.
I am on my way down to Argentina in about 10 days and
read recently about the growing popularity of fine dining
in private houses. Casa Salt Shaker being one example.
Have you had much experience of these establishments?
If so are there many in the market? I find the concept very
appealing.


boar, fabulous first post. Welcome to FlyerTalk. If that's the quality of all your posts, you will quickly become a favorite of many here.

I'd never heard of this type of establishment. What a great idea. If you hear of any others, please post them too. Casa Salt Shaker is clearly booked well in advance. It's now on my list of places to plan to visit.

Rita

Rita - you may be interested in reading the blog of the owner of Casa SaltShaker, Dan Perlman:

http://www.saltshaker.net/

His blog mixes food, travel, and social commentary.

Although I've not yet eaten at his house, I think it provides a welcome expansion to the food choices available in Buenos Aires.

John

Gaucho, thoroughly enjoyed all your numerous posts in the forum.
I am on my way down to Argentina in about 10 days and
read recently about the growing popularity of fine dining
in private houses. Casa Salt Shaker being one example.
Have you had much experience of these establishments?
If so are there many in the market? I find the concept very
appealing.

I must add that BA is the best value place on earth for food.
I entirely agree with your sentiments about Asian food. The same
applies in Chile. Better off sticking to Singapore or the US, the latter especially for sushi.

I did visit BA on one occasion before the economic crisis and it was incredible how my attitude changed with respect to the appeal of its fine dining once the prices were divided by 3. Travellers are mad if they dont take the opportunity to explore this incredible part of the world which must also include both Chile and Peru which are all incredibly good value.

I look forward to visiting your establishment for some wine tasting when I make it into town.

Hello Boar,

Welcome to FT and glad to hear you will be coming down to EZE.

The private home dining experience is hot hot hot right now... its a relatively new trend that had picked up a lot of steam lately. I know Dan Perlman quite well and have dined at his home, and I highly recommend the experience. Dan is a very nice guy, he is a seasoned traveler and apart from the great food, its a real pleasure to chat with him. As advised by others on this thread, its very important to book in advance.

Please feel free to PM me on the issue of wines, I will be glad to assist you.

Cheers
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Thanks Gaucho,
Was out on contact for 10 days or so as I was on a boat bound for Antarctica. Wonderful experience. Stopped off in El Calafate on the way up to BA - the Perito Moreno Glaciar is superb.
I am sampling the casa saltshaker experience for the first time tomorrow. Really looking forward to it. Dont be surprised to see me in your wine shop over the next few days.

Boar

Boar-- CasaSaltshaker is an excellent choice for dinner, please say hello to Dan for me.... but you´d better say Alex instead of Gaucho as Im not sure he is familiar with FT... :D

Cheers
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Great news for Foodies checking out the Argentina forums.... Dan Perlman, owner & Chef of CasaSaltshaker has joined FT. Apart from being a great Chef, Dan is also a very sharp restaurant critic so I will be getting lots of help in writing about great places to eat in Buenos Aires.

Dan, welcome to FT and welcome to the Argentina forums, you have a lot to contribute here and I look forward to your posts.

Cheers,
Alex

Great news for Foodies checking out the Argentina forums.... Dan Perlman, owner & Chef of CasaSaltshaker has joined FT. Apart from being a great Chef, Dan is also a very sharp restaurant critic so I will be getting lots of help in writing about great places to eat in Buenos Aires.

Dan, welcome to FT and welcome to the Argentina forums, you have a lot to contribute here and I look forward to your posts.

Cheers,
Alex

Yes, yes, welcome Dan. What's your "handle?"

Rita

Surprisingly, SaltShaker...

;)

Surprisingly, SaltShaker...

;)

Perfect!

Can't wait to return and spend an evening.
Rita

Will be in BS AS for two night in June. I'm looking for a top quality restaurant where i can feel comfortable dining alone and reading a book. Any suggestions?

I can think of a great many places... what cuisine do you prefer? Are you looking for a standard format meal or would something like a French-Argentine fusion tasting menu be of interest? If this sounds good, then I suggest going to Nectarine.

Thanks! To answer ur question; beef, beef and steak :)

OK.. in that case Nectarine is not the place for you to go. If you like your steak rare, then the place is La Brigada in San Telmo. However, they have a Grill Nazi who will cook the beef according to his standards... so if you want something medium then you are out of luck.

I would avoid Cabania las Lilas.

We are going to be in BA arriving June 8 and leaving late June 11. Any suggestions about tours or tour guides?

I read about a tour group, on the internet that has airport transfers, Tango shows/dinners, and city tours. It seems there is a flea market that is open only on Sunday that is also offered part of a tour with something that appears to be like a churasacarria (sp?).

Any ideas? We also would be very interested in beef. I've been to the all you can eat steak chursacarria in Rio and one in Cali, Columbia. They were both excellent for trying the flavors of beef in another country.

We are staying at the Sheraton Liberator a couple of nights and at the Sheraton Park Tower one night.

Thanks,
thepla

Ciao Gaucho and amigos!
First, thank you for being such an awesome member of FT. You are one of the most invaluable resources I’ve ever run across.
So, here’s the scoop: I am an American professor teaching at an American university in Italy. My two best friends, Emiliano and Luca, have never been outside of Europe before. In fact, Luca was on his first plane last summer. (Ryanair from Treviso to Brussels. How awful is THAT?) This summer I didn’t feel like travelling alone so I asked them both if they wanted to go to Argentina and Uruguay for our August holidays. Neither one was very excited about that. They knew nothing about Argentina and have some serious misconceptions about its people and culture. In Vicenza, a nearby city in northeastern Italy, there is a fantastic Argentine steakhouse, La Tangueria. So, I took them there for 1 nice dinner. They both moaned in pleasure the moment the meat went into their mouths. Immediately, SI SI SI SI, andiamo in Argentina! So, now we are booked to arrive into BsAs on Aug 9 and we leave for Montevideo on Aug 16-19, to return to BsAs until Aug 21 for a total of 9 nights in Argentina and 3 nights in Uruguay. I am using Marriott points to stay at the Marriott Plaza in Buenos Aires. While staying at the Sheraton Montevideo on a paid rate.
We are three guys (I’m 34, the other two are 31 and 26). We are all just normal, average guys. I have significantly more disposable income than either of them. So, for eating, we need to be a little careful. Aug 11 is Luca’s 32nd birthday, so I’d like to have a really good steak dinner and the cost is not so important for that. But for our remaining days, we just want to eat a lot of beef. The more, the better. Steak, steak, and for dessert, beef. :-D We are casual, not formal, and would not appreciate a stuffy or obnoxious atmosphere; places that are more relaxed and fun without pretenses. Good food, good wine/beer.
I found two amazing wines at La Tangueria, Etchart Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon and the Malbec. The Cab from 2002 and the Malbec from 2004. I was very impressed with the Cab especially. I like a smooth, oaky, smoky flavour to my wine and this was certainly a deep and full wine. I am flying C class on AF and will be making a connection at CDG, so carry-on is simply not possible. I am eager to know how I can check-in some wine that I plan on buying in BsAs. I am open to other brands/types as well. My boss at the university is a majoe wine-freak. If I don’t bring back wine for him, he will not be happy with me and I risk not receiving a raise come autumn.
Also, Luca and Emiliano LOVE futbol (I prefer football.. the american style.. heh heh) and I have had a terrible time finding if there will be any games happening in BsAs during this time.
Thanks in advance for any advice or help you can give.

We are going to be in BA arriving June 8 and leaving late June 11. Any suggestions about tours or tour guides?

I read about a tour group, on the internet that has airport transfers, Tango shows/dinners, and city tours. It seems there is a flea market that is open only on Sunday that is also offered part of a tour with something that appears to be like a churasacarria (sp?).

Any ideas? We also would be very interested in beef. I've been to the all you can eat steak chursacarria in Rio and one in Cali, Columbia. They were both excellent for trying the flavors of beef in another country.

We are staying at the Sheraton Liberator a couple of nights and at the Sheraton Park Tower one night.

Thanks,
thepla


I think that a good private guide is an excellent investment to be able to get to know the city's best sites. This is of course quite a bit more expensive than joining a group, but thats a choice you will have to make. If you want me to refer you such a guide, please be so kind as to email me and I will forward you the details.

As for the beef.... plenty of places for you to eat "cow" here... :D I assume you have read at least part of this thread...? ;) Also, I dont mean to come across as a food snob, but it is my understanding that the meals offered as part of larger tour groups are usually rather poor (in terms of quality) and they are fairly expensive. Since they are part of the package deal, its hard to detect that you are getting taken to the cleaners.... also, wines served at those meals are almost always dismal.

Some places for you not to miss are:

La Brigada in San Telmo
El Pobre Luis
La Dorita / La Dorita de Enfrente

FWIW, I would suggest avoiding Cabania Las Lilas.

Estimado Professore dg4255--

Thanks for the kind words.

I’m rather surprised that your "tifosi" friends have such misconceptions of Argentina... especially since Italy shares with Spain the most relevant parts of Argentina's cultural & migratory heritage. Regardless, I’m sure your amici will be completely won over once they come here… if a visit to an Argentine Steakhouse in Italy got them so excited, then these guys run the risk of never wanting to return home after they set foot in Buenos Aires.

A list of some places you need to go eat beef are posted in my above post, plus, make sure you read through this thread. Of course, if you have further specific questions, please feel free to post them right here and the resident EZE experts and I will be happy to revisit any issues.

For wine related issues, please PM or email me and I will gladly assist you. Plenty of local market only brands and labels of all price points, and some rare high end stuff for your boss will be easy to find. Make sure you understand what style of wine your boss likes… or ask around for what his favorite producers are, I will help you from there.

Cheers,
Alex (Gaucho100K)

Ciao Gaucho and amigos!
First, thank you for being such an awesome member of FT. You are one of the most invaluable resources I’ve ever run across.
So, here’s the scoop: I am an American professor teaching at an American university in Italy. My two best friends, Emiliano and Luca, have never been outside of Europe before. In fact, Luca was on his first plane last summer. (Ryanair from Treviso to Brussels. How awful is THAT?) This summer I didn’t feel like travelling alone so I asked them both if they wanted to go to Argentina and Uruguay for our August holidays. Neither one was very excited about that. They knew nothing about Argentina and have some serious misconceptions about its people and culture. In Vicenza, a nearby city in northeastern Italy, there is a fantastic Argentine steakhouse, La Tangueria. So, I took them there for 1 nice dinner. They both moaned in pleasure the moment the meat went into their mouths. Immediately, SI SI SI SI, andiamo in Argentina! So, now we are booked to arrive into BsAs on Aug 9 and we leave for Montevideo on Aug 16-19, to return to BsAs until Aug 21 for a total of 9 nights in Argentina and 3 nights in Uruguay. I am using Marriott points to stay at the Marriott Plaza in Buenos Aires. While staying at the Sheraton Montevideo on a paid rate.
We are three guys (I’m 34, the other two are 31 and 26). We are all just normal, average guys. I have significantly more disposable income than either of them. So, for eating, we need to be a little careful. Aug 11 is Luca’s 32nd birthday, so I’d like to have a really good steak dinner and the cost is not so important for that. But for our remaining days, we just want to eat a lot of beef. The more, the better. Steak, steak, and for dessert, beef. :-D We are casual, not formal, and would not appreciate a stuffy or obnoxious atmosphere; places that are more relaxed and fun without pretenses. Good food, good wine/beer.
I found two amazing wines at La Tangueria, Etchart Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon and the Malbec. The Cab from 2002 and the Malbec from 2004. I was very impressed with the Cab especially. I like a smooth, oaky, smoky flavour to my wine and this was certainly a deep and full wine. I am flying C class on AF and will be making a connection at CDG, so carry-on is simply not possible. I am eager to know how I can check-in some wine that I plan on buying in BsAs. I am open to other brands/types as well. My boss at the university is a majoe wine-freak. If I don’t bring back wine for him, he will not be happy with me and I risk not receiving a raise come autumn.
Also, Luca and Emiliano LOVE futbol (I prefer football.. the american style.. heh heh) and I have had a terrible time finding if there will be any games happening in BsAs during this time.
Thanks in advance for any advice or help you can give.

OK.. in that case Nectarine is not the place for you to go. If you like your steak rare, then the place is La Brigada in San Telmo. However, they have a Grill Nazi who will cook the beef according to his standards... so if you want something medium then you are out of luck.

I would avoid Cabania las Lilas.

Rare is always fine by me or is that vuelta y vuelta. thanks gaucho

Vuelta y vuelta applies to very thin steaks... like those used in sandwiches. Rare would be more for a grill situation, with thicker cuts of beef.

Vuelta y vuelta applies to very thin steaks... like those used in sandwiches. Rare would be more for a grill situation, with thicker cuts of beef.

Wow I never knew that. To think I've been using that term for the last 3 1/2years. I think I read it in a travel book. What would be the correct term in Spanish? Thanks

For rare, here in Argentina, we use "jugoso", or juicy. Medium rare to medium, "al punto". Well done, "bien cocido".

Well done, "bien cocido".

Loosely translated as "Kiss All Flavor Goodbye" ;)

Loosely translated as "Kiss All Flavor Goodbye" ;)

Well said... ^

Thanks to this thread, I found Parilla 1880 in San Telmo. It was perfect. Never again will I bother with Cabana las Lilas. Also tried Sucre and Nectarine. Both were fine, but I wouldn´t go back unless I was very tired of local food.

1880 in San Telmo is indeed a great spot.

If one is in the mood for Italian, as posted all over this thread two places to look out for are:

SottoVoce (two locations, Libertador and Puerto Madero)
La Parolaccia (various locations, Belgrano and Puerto Madero)

For rare, here in Argentina, we use "jugoso", or juicy. Medium rare to medium, "al punto". Well done, "bien cocido".

So could one ask for rare to med rare rather than med rare to med? Something like entre jugoso y punto, en la lada jugoso in a totally imcomprehensible American mumble?

In that case, you need to use the terms:

a penas mas que a punto,

or

a penas mas que jugoso

PS a minor correction: its " a punto ", not " al punto "

In that case, you need to use the terms:

a penas mas que a punto,

or

a penas mas que jugoso

PS a minor correction: its " a punto ", not " al punto "

Thank you! Not positive what penas means, but can see it's what I'm trying to convey. Also thanks for the a punto as opposed to al punto. I think I grasp the difference there also.

I'm such a mush mouth it won't matter, but is it true in Argentina the y and ll is pronounced sh? As in plasha rather than playa?

a penas = just a little

a penas mas que jugoso = cooked just a little more than "jugoso"

I'm such a mush mouth it won't matter, but is it true in Argentina the y and ll is pronounced sh? As in plasha rather than playa?


Yes... thats about right. I would say its more like plashya... but you have the basics down... :D

So, if I wanted to order it medium plus (so, medium with about 1 or 2 minutes more on the grill), how in the heck would I say that? ;-) a penas mas que a punto?

Yes... apenas mas que a punto would be perfect!!! ^

Just returned from a dinner at Parrilla 1880. Interesting. Good food. Very understated decor. Extremely local crowd without a single tourist in the place (of course, except us). Food was great. We had the most expensive champagne (Chandon), a very good bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon (Bodega Luigi Bosca 2004), tons of food including 4 steaks and dessert. Total was €63. SIXTY-THREE EURO!!! WOWOWOWOWOWOW!!! The provolota completa was excellent. All of the steaks were amazing. Our server, Oscar, was superb. We arrived at 815pm and that is too early. Definitely make a reservation, but go at 9 or 10pm. Better ambiance. I would recommend this place, but don't arrive in formal wear. This is a place that focuses on the food, not the attitude or pretense that one might see in other places in BsAs.

Wirelessly posted (Palm TX: Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 6.0; Windows 98; PalmSource/Palm-D050; Blazer/4.3) 16;320x320)

Great review... glad you enjoyed 1880 !!

I've gathered the names of all the great places, parillas and upscale restaurants.
I know we can get huge "very good" steaks for not very many pesos.

Reading here, Chowhound, eGullet and other more tourisitc places, I'm not sure I understand what people are talking about. From Slow Foods Argentina "Vacio: Vacio is a very fatty cut. A flank steak (bottom of the porterhouse)" and one site said flank is same as skirt steak. Not!

At home I buy Costco filets or American Kobe-Waygu and cook them to my own perfection. Never order steak in a restaurant, as they just don't cook them properly (perhaps excluding Morton's, Wollensky's and the like.)

So I'm not looking for a $10 steak too huge for the plate, but one of great quality and expert cooking. Where would one find quality rather than quantity?

(We are semi-committed to Rodi Bar on Monday, Mi Tierra in Mendoza on Tues, 1884 Mallman on Weds., Thursday ??? , Casa Saltshaker on Friday, Rio Alba and Sucre on Saturday Sunday and Monday will be at Sheraton in Igauzu? Dinner suggestions, anyone??.

...Sunday and Monday will be at Sheraton in Igauzu? Dinner suggestions, anyone??.
In Puerto Iguazu, Restaurante La Rueda ("The Wheel") is excellent! You must eat there at least one night while at Iguazu. Two years ago, some other FTers and I had a wonderful dinner there. Since there were four of us dining, we ordered a diverse bunch of dishes (IIRC, some steaks, some Italian, some side dishes) and shared most of them.

Where would one find quality rather than quantity?


Hi Lili-- Its hard for me to answer yo