doc
Jul 15, 01, 8:26 am
Philadelphia's Core, Well Fed, Revives
...Just five years ago, Center City after work was a quiet and gloomy terrain, however rich in history and colonial charm. Energized by a brawny economy and some forward thinking entrepreneurs, things began to change. And, as is often the case, restaurateurs led the charge.
Today, this compact neighborhood — roughly defined by Broad Street on the east and Rittenhouse Square on the west — has such a lively dining scene that you could fling your credit card in any direction and it would likely land on a chef's doorstep. Following is a sampling.
Alma de Cuba
One of the hot newcomers to downtown is Alma de Cuba, whose chef and partner is Douglas Rodriguez (he also owns two restaurants in Manhattan, Pipa and Chicama). Mr. Rodriguez turns out a highly eccentric rendition of Central and South American cooking in a fashionable modern setting...
Around Rittenhouse Square
On warm summer afternoons, tidy little Rittenhouse Square, one of Philadelphia's most patrician neighborhoods, is abloom with strolling couples, families and, in recent years, vibrant outdoor cafes. You might want to stop for a drink at Bleu, a cheerful, mural- wrapped American bistro that serves dishes like sweet steamed mussels, various composed salads, burgers and the like...
Le Bec-Fin
Aside from Ben Franklin, Georges Perrier may be the most celebrated and droll celebrity this city has seen over the years. When he encamped in the downtrodden Center City in 1971, Philadelphia's culinary scene was characterized by bulging cheese steaks and foil-wrapped blocks of dense cream cheese...
Vetri
One of the most admired young chefs in Philadelphia is 34-year-old Marc Vetri, whose three-year-old restaurant serves soul-warming rustic Italian cuisine with contemporary fillips — and at reasonable prices...
Around Town
One of Philadelphia's longtime Mexican favorites, Los Catrines, recently moved a few doors down from its original home to a baronial downtown mansion with dark mahogany walls, a 20-foot ceiling and a fine old bar. A long rectangular back room is more casual. I had heard that Los Catrines served an excellent mole poblano, and indeed it does: inky and thick, redolent of cloves and almonds, and just hot enough to keep you coming back. I had it ladled around two pieces of chicken breast the size of maracas...
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/07/15/travel/15TAB.html?0715inside
...Just five years ago, Center City after work was a quiet and gloomy terrain, however rich in history and colonial charm. Energized by a brawny economy and some forward thinking entrepreneurs, things began to change. And, as is often the case, restaurateurs led the charge.
Today, this compact neighborhood — roughly defined by Broad Street on the east and Rittenhouse Square on the west — has such a lively dining scene that you could fling your credit card in any direction and it would likely land on a chef's doorstep. Following is a sampling.
Alma de Cuba
One of the hot newcomers to downtown is Alma de Cuba, whose chef and partner is Douglas Rodriguez (he also owns two restaurants in Manhattan, Pipa and Chicama). Mr. Rodriguez turns out a highly eccentric rendition of Central and South American cooking in a fashionable modern setting...
Around Rittenhouse Square
On warm summer afternoons, tidy little Rittenhouse Square, one of Philadelphia's most patrician neighborhoods, is abloom with strolling couples, families and, in recent years, vibrant outdoor cafes. You might want to stop for a drink at Bleu, a cheerful, mural- wrapped American bistro that serves dishes like sweet steamed mussels, various composed salads, burgers and the like...
Le Bec-Fin
Aside from Ben Franklin, Georges Perrier may be the most celebrated and droll celebrity this city has seen over the years. When he encamped in the downtrodden Center City in 1971, Philadelphia's culinary scene was characterized by bulging cheese steaks and foil-wrapped blocks of dense cream cheese...
Vetri
One of the most admired young chefs in Philadelphia is 34-year-old Marc Vetri, whose three-year-old restaurant serves soul-warming rustic Italian cuisine with contemporary fillips — and at reasonable prices...
Around Town
One of Philadelphia's longtime Mexican favorites, Los Catrines, recently moved a few doors down from its original home to a baronial downtown mansion with dark mahogany walls, a 20-foot ceiling and a fine old bar. A long rectangular back room is more casual. I had heard that Los Catrines served an excellent mole poblano, and indeed it does: inky and thick, redolent of cloves and almonds, and just hot enough to keep you coming back. I had it ladled around two pieces of chicken breast the size of maracas...
http://www.nytimes.com/2001/07/15/travel/15TAB.html?0715inside