Reams are written about super chefs, charming maitre d's, and creative restaurant designers, but there is another class of hospitality worker that gets ink, has a following and can cause a stir on the local scene.

We've spent years reading about the famous and infamous exploits of our great local bartenders like Seamus Coyle, Bobby McCambridge, Michael McCourt, Frank Rossi (now, also an owner) Matt Larsen and Brian Keeney. Bartending is much more than pouring a drink or shaking a martini. Friendly, clever bartenders not only remember patrons' names, but also know what they drink and how they want it. They are also a font of San Francisco gossip, opinion and jokes.

Now, three of the top cocktail dudes -- Michael DiBenedetti, "Wizz" Wentworth and Erik Boardman -- have formed a partnership and this spring will open Amante at 570 Green St. (near Columbus), in the space formerly occupied by P. J. Mulhern's. Mulhern's closed last year after a bumpy ride.

With Amante, which means mistress, the partners intend to create a sexy, entertaining lounge with casual Italian food. Designer Vera Za'Arour, who worked on Tavolino among other restaurants, is re-doing the look.

Ten years ago, the partners launched Moose's together as the primary bartenders and have worked at some of the top spots in San Francisco. "It was always our dream to own a place together," says DiBenedetti.