Determined to never again sit in a Paris restaurant eating wheat gluten and soy, I've been looking into some of the more esteemed restaurants that offer vegetarian menus. Some of them are awfully pricey though and I'm wondering if anyone can comment on those I do have reservations at and tell me if they're worth it and also if anyone might have more suggestions.

L'Arpege - Have reservations but I'm told to expect $800 for two for dinner. Our server at Charlie Trotter's recently said she'd eaten there and thought it wasn't worth it. OTOH, it's Charlie's fav restaurant in Paris. For $800 it better knock my socks off, will it?

Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire - Have a reservation here too, but have no idea what the prices run and haven't seen a menu. All I know is they'll do a vegetarian menu.

Spoon - This was highly recommended and we have a reservation.

Any others I'm missing? Any of the above I should be skipping?

Zagat's lists two: Bon (16th) and Le Grenier de Notre Dame (5th).

My somewhat stale Time Out: Eating and Drinking in Paris lists
15 places. Their picks incluse La Ville de Jagannath (11th), Le Bol en Bois (13th), and Aquarius (14th). (I haven't tried any of them.)

Just to be clear, you want vegetarian, but only food of French character? (Of course, it's easy to eat vegetarian with Indian or Chinese cuisines.)
Rich

According to the the Michelin guide who awarded L'Arpège three stars, dinner for one for the set menu is €214 and ordering from La Carte should be between €140 and €225. So with wine, you could reasonably get by on €500 to €600. Service and tax is included.

At Pierre Gagnaire, They have a lunch set menu for €84 and a set dinner menu for €183. Ordering from La Carte should be €155 to €215.

You may also want to consider Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V. The restaurant has two Michelin stars. The reason why I am recommending this restaurant is because whenever I go to a Four Seasons Hotel restaurant and don't see anything on the menu I like, they are invariably very happy to accomodate any reasonable request I have.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Apparently the prices at L'Arpege have gone up since your guide came out. I'm holding the menu they faxed me and fixed-price menu is 300 euros pp.

And yes, looking for something French. Anyone been to any of these? I'm hoping for some experiences ...

167 hits at www.deja.com (http://www.deja.com) for the search string "aquarius paris restaurant".

It sounded the most interesting of the Time Out listings, but, frankly, the food seems similar at best to what you might get at Herbivore or Millennium (in SF) and probably not as good. Of course, Aquarius isn't even a one star.

Good luck and please report back on what happens. I hadn't thought about it much until now, but this may be one of those cross cultural issues that's difficult to resolve. Whether a 2 or 3 star restaurant can put something together for a vegetarian is a lot different than composing something.
Rich

letiole: Are you trying to decide between Arpège and Pierre Gagnaire, or are you set on doing them both?

I have been to both restaurants – here are my thoughts.

I have eaten at Arpège twice, both times before Alain Passard, the chef, went “vegetarian”. Both times the meals were outstanding, perhaps among the best that I have eaten in France. However, since the third Michelin star and the Relais & Chateaux affiliation, the prices here have become really outrageous; last year (and the year before, I believe) prices increase %s were in the double digits.

The price you have quoted of 300 euros per person (excluding wine, right?) is pretty shocking to me. For those prices I expect them to plant, grow and harvest those darn vegetables right next to my table! http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/wink.gif Wine prices are equally outrageous: some friends were telling me how they found a good but fairly ordinary bottle of Côtes-du-Rhône white for about $100 – and this was one of the better bargains.

Rumors around town and in the press are that the food has not been as good lately. I honestly can’t justify that kind of money for this restaurant based upon what I have been hearing and reading over the last several months. I might add that the restaurant is lovely (located across the street from the Rodin Museum) but on the smaller side and the decoration is nothing more extraordinary than places you have probably already been in San Francisco, NYC, Chicago, etc.

Patricia Wells, the food critic for the International Herald Tribune who is usually pretty reliable, had this to say about Arpège over a year ago:

May the Force Be With Alain Passard: Chef at Arpege Is Part of a Vegetable Revolution, but Not Its Leader (http://www.iht.com/ihtsearch.php?id=17381&owner=(International%20Herald%20Tribune)&date=20010420000000)

I have eaten at Pierre Gagnaire once, for lunch (I actually prefer lunch in these places: the prices are lower, the crowd is usually more French and less touristy, the atmosphere is a little less formal than the evening, etc.). It was FANTASTIC! One of the best meals I have ever had – just one delicious taste surprise after the next. Excellent, witty service and desserts to die for. If you are going to choose between the two, I wouldn’t hesitate in choosing Pierre Gagnaire. It is a unique experience (décor is beautiful, quite contemporary but very comfortable). Count on dinner prices of about $450 for two, prix fixe $400 (tax and service included); wine from $50. Contrary to Arpège, I think it’s worth every eurocent.

Web site in English:

http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/anglais/

Patricia Wells just had an article in the NYT Travel section on Sunday:

http://www.nytimes.com/2002/10/06/travel/06TAB.html

And a few more of her IHT articles on this restaurant:

Savoy and Gagnaire: 2 Paris chefs at the top of their game (http://www.iht.com/ihtsearch.php?id=57238&owner=(International%20Herald%20Tribune)&date=20020712154010)

On the Back Burner: Pierre Gagnaire and Korova (http://www.iht.com/ihtsearch.php?id=1648&owner=&date=20001117000000)

Spoon is in a different class of restaurants: much less formal and elaborate. It reminds me of many high-end restaurants in the U.S. The food is very good and it is more reasonably priced; very interesting menu and concept with good wines. It can be quite a scene, especially during the fashion collections.

I had dinner with some FT friends a few weeks ago at Macéo which is a sister restaurant of the always-good Willi’s Wine Bar. It’s located just behind the Palais Royal in the 1st arrondissement. Dinner was very good. They have set price vegetarian menus which are actually the best bargain in the house (and often the most appealing); I tried one of these menus this summer and it was quite good. Excellent wine list.

http://www.maceorestaurant.com/

Let me know if I can be of any more help.

I have to agree, €300 is a lot. Even the set menu at Alain Ducasse Au Plaza Athénée is only €190.

It looks like la carte for Taillevent includes three vegetarian dishes, including:

Légumes du moment étuvés à la minute 37 €
Ravioles de champignons de Paris aux truffes 42 €
Oeuf fermier pané
et frit aux truffes 49 €

http://www.taillevent.com

Thanks so much blair that's exactly what I was looking for - opionions from people who've been. Yeah, I was looking at eating at all on different nights, but really trying to find a reason to justify the high cost at L'Arpege. There doesn't seem to be one.

I think we will cancel L'Arpege, go with Pierre Gagnaire for lunch, stick with Spoon for a dinner and check into a reservation a Maceo and Taillevent. Thanks for the recommendations!

[This message has been edited by letiole (edited 10-10-2002).]

My pleasure, letiole. I don't recall exactly what kind of vegetarian you are ... but if I think of other places I'll post them here.

You shouldn't have any problems getting same day reservations at Macéo.

I noticed that Patricia Wells listed lunch prices for Pierre Gagnaire: menus at around 85 euros and 183 euros à la carte. This is so "reasonable" you can really splash out for some expensive wines! http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/biggrin.gif

Taillevent is wonderful and will be a very nice contrast to the more contemporary decor of Pierre Gagnaire (it is very traditional atmosphere in a Second Empire mansion built in 1853 - absolutely top-notch but not stuffy).

Wow Etoile, you have picked some fine restaurants. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif

If you are going to be in Paris on a Sunday, I suggest hitting the marche biologique in sevres-bablyone. Its an amazing farmer's market with great take home gifts.

I remember being a poor vegetarian student visiting Paris. Our friend's parents treated us to a nice dinner at a Moroccan restaurant. Everyone had lamb and I had a nice vegetarian couscous.

Have fun!

lala

blair wrote:
<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">I don't recall exactly what kind of vegetarian you are ... </font>

Um, I like to think I'm the nice, charming, irresistible kind. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/biggrin.gif
But I suspect you're wondering if I eat dairy ... and I do. I couldn't live without buffalo mozzarella, feta and flourless chocolate cake. I'm just into torturing animals for my food, not killing them. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/wink.gif

Thanks lalala. I'll add that to my list. Yeah, for a while there being a vegetarian in Paris really stunk. Everyone else had some marvelous feast while I enjoyed - and I use that term liberally - fake meat, rice, pizzas. At least now there appears to be lots of good options.

BTW, if anyone wants to know where to find wheatgrass smoothies and soy sausages in Paris, I've got you covered. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/wink.gif

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Um, I like to think I'm the nice, charming, irresistible kind</font>

http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/biggrin.gif I knew that already! Yes, my question concerned your eating habits, not your character traits.

lalala's suggestion for the Boulevard Raspail market is excellent - it's every Sunday morning and it's great fun for shopping and people watching.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">BTW, if anyone wants to know where to find wheatgrass smoothies and soy sausages in Paris, I've got you covered. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/wink.gif</font>

Um, no, thanks!

This has nothing to do with your original question, but if you're around the Opera or Madeleine areas at lunchtime, you might want to stop by the Ferme St-Hubert in the rue Vignon. (If you imagine a traingle formed by the Opera Garnier, Madeleine, and the Galleries Lafayette, Ferme St-Hubert is exactly in the middle.) It's a cheese shop that serves up delicious, cholesterol-laden delights at lunchtime -- it'll completely change how you think of a grilled cheese sandwich.

I second Wideman's comments about Ferme St-Hubert. Wideman recommended this restaurant before our trip in June. We enjoyed it immensely. It is just around the corner from the Hyatt Madeleine.

Ferme St-Hubert sounds like my kinda place. Thanks!

I forgot to mention a place in my neigborhood where many friends go - it's called Guenmai and is apparently the oldest organic restaurant in Paris (it's been open for 20 years). It is a stone's throw away from the Place Saint-Germain-des-Près, right behind the tiny and charming Place Furstenberg in the 6th arrondissement. It is open only for lunch and apparently quite good.

Guenmai
6 rue Cardinale
Paris 6th

http://parisvoice.com/99/oct/html/feature.cfm (see "Restaurant" section)

Would definitely go with Taillevant or their new Bistro--L'Angle du Faubourg. Whatever they do , they do well. Beautifully prepared vegetables, ravioli, cheese tray and a most-hospitable attitude. Have you taken a look at Dininginfrance.com? Some good links there. Taillevent, on our many visits has always been so warm and welcoming. No *** attitude. Just love the place. The vegetables at their spin-off L'angle du Fauborg were more memorable than the rest of the dishes. They rotate the sous chefs and waiters between the two restaurants Taillevent's wine shop is next door to the Bistro. Although, not a vegetarian, there are times I just want a perfectly cooked vegeterian meal. These two restaurants never disappoint and you will be treated with respect and kindness.

I agree that Maceo has a very good and reasonably priced 3-course veggie menu.

Another is Les Bookinistes on the quai by St. Michel. It's one of the more casual cafe by Guy Savoy.

A dependable and very french cheap eat in Le Marais is Piccolo Teatro on rue des Ecouffes right next to the lesbian bar Scandaleuses. It's all gratin and good.

Most of the all-veggie restos in Paris are a throwback to the 60's sprout nut-loaf, the type of food that gives vegetarianism a bad name. Aquarius is a prime example. However, the best of this genre is La Victoire du Supreme du Coeur, off of rue St. Honore by Les Halles. It has pictures of Sri Chimoy and very nice upscale hippie veggie food.

Chez Marianne, an institution in Le Marais, serves the best falafel in town.

Bon appetit!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Taillevent's wine shop is next door to the Bistro</font>

Don't let the name intimidate you - Les Caves Taillevent is one of the best wines stores in Paris with a very knowledgeable staff and an excellent selection in all price ranges.

Thanks so much. Wish I had all of you to turn to the last time I was in Paris enjoying my soy and tempeh.