Hi folks,

I'm considering burning up some vacation time by visiting Paris mid-December, taking advantage of the _low_ fares from PHX!

Just wondered what sort of weather to expect, if the museums will be open, and what sort of special things might be going on there that time of year. Thanks!

JP

[This message has been edited by j379pa (edited 09-09-2001).]

I don't mean to tag along on your thread, however....

We are going in November..... Same questions???

Paris is faboo in November and December. Berthillon ice cream doesn't melt while eating it and hot chocolate is definitely on the must do list at Christian Constant. I'm from Seattle, the latitude and weather is quite similiar, it rains, it can be cold and cloudy. However, Parisians are there and you see the city as it functions. Bring a jacket, hat and good boots and you're set.
In late November and December, Christmas lights are up and shop windows are decorated. All the museums, restaurants and stores are open for business as usual. Lines for exhibitions won't be as long except on weekends. Some hotels have promos for reduced room rates during this time.

We usually go to do a bit of shopping and of course, finish of the mileage year http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif.

Sigh--I guess I just became my father...

>faboo was not found in the Cambridge >International Dictionary of English.

Tell me "faboo" is newslang for "fabulous"--am I close? and, of course, thanks for the info!

JP

we're a merriam webster 3rd edition and oed family, so different strokes. Faboo is the shortened version of fabulous, I was just trying to get you in the mood for Paris, the home of Franglais.

Paris in winter isn't for everyone, but I do enjoy it there in the off season. Been three times, once in November and twice in January. The weather is quite chilly, at least compared to Los Angeles, but snow is pretty rare. In fact, snow is really a pain in the arse because the whole city shuts down and the people run around like it is armageddon or something. The Metro usually shuts down as well, and the poor Parisians come out in their skiwear like it is 40 below. http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif It *will* rain, though. Usually not terribly hard, but it will rain. Mmmm....temp about 45F-55F in the day, and about 10 degrees less at night.

The city in winter is tourist free. Things that you will wait for hours to get into during the summer will take about 10 minutes. The Louvre and Orsay are delightful respites from the chill, and are empty enough to enjoy. Restaurants are very comfortable, warm, and usually busy. Needless to say, there is no street dining in winter.

Days are short, and the light factor is probably at 50%. Expect most or all of your pictures to have a cold, grey tint to them. Stores will close a little earlier than in the summer, but not too much. Berthillon is indeed one of life's not-so-simple pleasures, though the hours are very limited. Go to the actual shop on the Ile St Louis, not to one of the restaurants hawking the stuff. Isn't the same. As lalala said, the city does like Christmas a lot, and it looks like one big picture postcard (with a grey tint, of course). Make a trip to the 7th (my fav arr.) and go by Au Bon Marche and its picture windows. The Champs Elysees is overboard, and accordingly fun to stroll. Everyone talks about Paris in springtime. Paris to me is walking from the Concorde to the Arc at Christmas time. The trees are lit, people are snuggling close to each other, things are quiet and peaceful, and for a fleeting moment, everything is right in the world.

I was in Paris for Christmas Eve/Christmas Day last year (rest of the time was spent in Provence). The weather was fine (I'm from Seattle too so maybe our definition of "fine weather" is different from yours http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif). Anyway, one hint I have is that you get to Notre Dame VERY early if you want to be inside for Christmas mass. The music and bells are exquisite as is the inside of the church, but the lines outside are unbelievable and although it's still fun it's not the same.

Christmas Day I went to the movies which is where almost every other Parisian went too! You can see many English movies (look for vo as the title - version originale). It was fun being the only American in the audience watching Charlie's Angels. I swear, some things just don't translate right. . .

All of the museums are opened as other posters said albeit limited hours. You may want to check the web and see which museums are under construction (this past March the Palais Royal along with the Petit Palais and the L'orangerie were all under construction).

Christmas week has LOTS of tourists. I've been to Paris 10 times in the last 3 years and I've never experienced so many people as I did during that week. It's not only Americans, but all Europeans are off of school, have holiday, etc., so. . .

If possible, I'd suggest going BEFORE Christmas. Whenever you go though, you'll have a wonderful time. Please feel free to email me if you have other questions/require more information (in case you can't tell, Paris is one of my most favorite cities in the entire world!)

2-3*** restaurants drop the regular menu, and serve a game menu. Reservations are much easier to come by.

Excluding Christmas weeks, museums are delightfully empty. Outlying sites are also empty.

Days are very dark and gray. Sun rises after 9am, I think, and is gone by 4.

Thanks for all the good replies! I would return no later than the 20th, as family thinks PHX is warmer than most other places in our country for Christmas. Seeing the museums is high on the list, and figured that was pretty weather-unrelated. It's good to hear they're less crowded.

Given the sad events of this week, I've decided to hold off booking for a week or two to see how things shake out. I'm not so concerned about terrorism as I am about logistics--delays, changed flights, etc. I suspect, though, that the ripple effect from this will be months and years rather than weeks.

JP

Anyone have any pending plans for a trip to Paris? I was hoping to do a long weekend trip there sometime in the next few weekends. Would be nice to get over there whilst sympathy/affection for Americans/NYers is at an all time high.

Seeing the museums is high on the list, and figured that was pretty weather-unrelated. It's good to hear they're less crowded

There are still lines to get into the biggies, and long lines at the coat check.

Wear something that will go into the museum(for me sportcoat, sweater, cap & backpack). Then get a week long museum ticket (Carte Orange?). You can get them in most museums with the card.

When you get to the museum, walk around the lines, and ask a guard where to go in with one of these, and show him the card.

Even if you don't use the whole card, it's worth the time saved.

Wow! Hats off to everybody who replied. I too will be there in December on my honeymoon. Can anyone tell me what to expect on New Year's eve? Also, any restaurant favorites?

I to am curious about what things are like around New Years. I'm thinking of going to France for about 10 days around New Years, 7 days in Paris, 3 days in Grenoble to visit some friends, and I've never been to Paris before.

How much does stuff shut down for the New Years holiday in Paris?

Its pretty hard to find a "bad" restuarant it depends where you are staying since I really enjoy a leiusurely walk to and from dinner.
Last visit we stayed in the 15th arr (Hilton)just over from the 7th arr and very close to the Eiffel Tower.
One resturant which may neccesitate you making reservations NOW is Jules Verne, located on level 2 of the Eiffel,very good, a bit expensive but well worth it (and thats not counting the view) also open for lunch.
Other of my favourites in the 7th arr:-
Le Violon d Ingres: try their discovery menu
which serves small portions of all their menu favourites.
Auberge Bressane: a cosy neighbourhood bistro (open on Sundays) got a write up in Conde Naste some months ago for their Coq Au Vin.
Note all these places will take reservations if you call directly (in English too)

Check out this board has invaluable information on France

http://www.delphi.com/pbprovence

Mike







[This message has been edited by MIKESILV (edited 09-25-2001).]

The "Carte Orange" is a pass for public transport (subway, buses, suburban trains).

The card for museums is "Carte Musées et Monuments" (Museum and Monument pass).

You can have details in the Paris Transit authority website at

http://www.ratp.fr/Eng/index.htm

Check the "Travel Guide" area, which gives details on tickets, "Carte Orange", Tourist passes, "Carte Musées et Monuments".

Paris any time of year is great. Lived there for 4 years (doing my undergraduate degree)!

Bon voyage et bon vol!

New Year's Eve is a blast! The Champs d'Elysses is amazing with all of the people. You need reservations at most of the restaurants and many will be closed down, but just walk around when you first get to the city, see one that you like and ask if they have room that evening. I've only had to wait once when I've done this and during the entire wait I was provided with free kirs, champagne, and wine! http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif

As far as the museums, I believe you can purchase the ticket at the metro which will save a great deal of time. If you are planning on visiting many of the sites, it really is a time saver. You can also purchase them inside the Louvre, but the line for it is incredible (of course, if you're only going to be in Paris for a couple of days my recommendation would be to skip the Louvre and go to the Musee d'Orsay and the Musee Montmartten instead, but this is just my preference).

Some of my favorite restaurants:

L'aubergine (near Invalides - L'ecole Militaire) The owner is American/French - worked in Florida and New York for many years before opening this place. He is sooo gracious.

La Table Ronde (Sentier district) - incredible duck!

Many of the restaurants may be shut for the holiday, so check before going (even if your hotel says it's open, I'd still go and check to avoid disappointment).

You really can't have a bad time in Paris.

Just to update you since you said that museums are high on your list:

While in Paris all of last week all of the museums and monuments were closed due to a strike. Each morning the staff would take a vote to determine if they were going to work or not and each day they didn't. Many people who had purchased the carte for the museums were very upset (and rightfully so) that they could not get a penny of their $$ back. You may want to wait and make sure that the museums are open before purchasing the card. I know it means that you have to stand in line a bit more, but personally I think it's better than being out ~$50. There is a website that posts whether or not the places are open. However; having said that, Paris is still amazingly beautiful!

Thanks for all the posts on this topic. I'm going to be in Paris from December 18-27, attending a wedding in Avignon (sp?) two days in between. A copy of this thread will also accompany me on this first time trip.

Since I'll be in Paris on Christmas Day I was very interested in going to the Notre Dame. Does anyone know how early one should be at the Notre Dame?

Thanks!
Bonk

Thanks for the reply's as well. I just found this board and will be in Paris from December 27th through January 3rd.

Interesting to see the discussion revived!

Didn't go (sigh)--bought a computer instead, and stayed home and painted. Already plotting for next year, though!

JP

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">
Didn't go (sigh)...Already plotting for next year, though!
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Speedily a tale is spun,
With much less speed a deed is done.

Recommended restaurants from a November 2001 visit to Paris.

L'Ostréa: 4, rue Lauval, near the Louvre. Tel: 40.26.08.07. Best sole menuiere I've ever had.

A La Petite Chaise: 36 rue de Grenelle (Left Bank).Tel: 42 22 13 35. I've eaten here many times. Same location since 1680. They must be doing something right.

La Criée: Quai Michelet Tel: 47 58 77 35.
Seafood specialties, inexpensive. Metro Stop: Pont de Levallois.

Worth your time: Musée de Montmartre,42 rue Cortot. Metro: Abbesses. Be sure and view the video comparing Montmartre scenes today with those of impressionists' paintings.

Big Band Jazz on Monday nights at the Jazz Club Lionel Hampton, Hotel Le Méridien Etoile.

Enjoy!

Lou

For some reason I didn't hit this forum for a couple of months and missed this interesting discussion. I celebrated my birthday in Paris and returned home December 12. I was there for 8 nights. The day I arrived, it was mostly cloudy. For the next six days, I did not see a cloud in the sky. The morning I left, it was cloudy. This was spectacular for Paris in December (or any time, really). The best birthday present I could have received (other than just being in Paris).

For anyone planning any trips in the future, I have some excellent restaurant recommendations that I'd be happy to share (and that are quite reasonable).

Further, if there was ever such a thing as Parisians being rude, this is a thing of the distant past (and my French is close to non-existent).

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Jeff