Just putting up this for discussion: Which would be better to spend time at, the Serengeti or South Africa (Kruger Park)?
We'll be in NBO coming in from JNB (AA's CX140A) for a Hilton SAF8 award (early June).
I'm considering catching the Serengeti migration in Kenya and/or Tanzania as an alternative to visiting Kruger (getting dreadfully close to the RSA school holiday season at that time) since we're close to the Serengeti from NBO.
Zombie
Aug 12, 03, 10:21 am
Hmmm... just tried to post a good long reply but flyertalk errored out on the Forum name.
Summary: Go to the Serengeti if you haven't yet been. Incredible place. Find a good safari company to maximize your chances of 'rarer' wildlife sightings (cheetah, leopards, etc.). The Serengeti lodges (3 brands - Wildlife, Sopa, and one other) cater almost exclusively to the safari crowd. If your budget can afford the private lodges ($1000+/night) it looks like a much more intimate experience.
Enjoy,
-Zombie-
johan rebel
Aug 15, 03, 3:09 pm
Terenz,
how many days do you have available, and how much are you willing to spend?
When you say Kruger, do you mean self-drive / public rest camps, or all-in private lodges in Kruger or adjacent private reserves?
johan
YVR Cockroach
Aug 15, 03, 6:29 pm
Hi to all. Doing more research, we are leaning towards the Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater (for the diversity and spectacle of the migration).
As for time, we have approximately 16 days of which the 1st 6 will be consumed by the Hilton SAF8. Budget can accomodate luxury lodges but we rather not. I think USD 150-200 p.p. p.d. is all we'd want to pay.
Kruger sounds nice but apparently it isn't as spectacular as the Serengeti.
Zombie
Aug 18, 03, 12:35 pm
Ngorongoro is an interesting experience with so many different species in a confined area, but IMO the Serengeti is much more rewarding - and, I believe, closer to NBO (?). One or two days is really all you need at Ngorongoro; for me the best part was not necessarily the game drives into the crater, but sitting on the patio of the Wildlife lodge in the afternoon overlooking the crater. If you have 10 days to spend then it's worth the drive from the Serengeti for a couple of days at Ngorongoro.
-Zombie-
YVR Cockroach
Aug 18, 03, 1:55 pm
Thanks Zombie. Most places offer Serengeti and Ngorongoro in a 5-7 day package. I certainly will look at a crater rim lodge. Have an offer from Serena lodges that i haven't looked at yet.
ewj
Aug 19, 03, 6:25 am
[QUOTE]Originally posted by terenz:
[B]Just putting up this for discussion: Which would be better to spend time at, the Serengeti or South Africa (Kruger Park)?
K is much more accessible and cheaper. If you easily get sick or have allegies K is also a little better place to be. The water is better and less chances of getting malaria.
Depending on the time of the year S provides you with more cat and animal kill views. S is a wilder place and IMHO a better place to view animals.
If you are in either area for a few days and do at least one early evening (late evening safaris are really a waste of time) and early morning you will see all the animals you want.
Many people in north america look for the big five but the birds are just great also. I like the ones in/near K a little better. S seems to have more bigs.
Whatever you do try all the animal meats where ever you go.
johan rebel
Aug 22, 03, 8:58 am
Some further thoughts on Serengeti and the KNP. The following points are based on ±35 visits to Kruger proper (not counting numerous visits to private lodges in adjacent private reserves) since 1990, and three visits each to Ngorongoro and Serengeti. I'm too lazy to write a well-structured and coherent analysis, so the points are in somewhat random order.
Weather and climate. Kruger is in the South African Lowveld, with summer rains from October to April. The rains are of course unpredictable, and vary from year to year in both duration, intensity and quantity. Because of various geographical peculiarities (primarily the nearby escarpment) influencing weather patterns, the Lowveld is prone to rather nasty weather that "settles in", with low cloud, on/off rain or drizzle, and often strong winds, which can last from a few days to a week or longer. This can happen any time from September through May, rarely in winter (June through August). The Serengeti and Ngorongoro have short rains in November and December, and long rains March through June. Ngorongoro's climate is also altitude modified, with a chance of mist, cloud and rain all year round.
Game viewing is generally considered to be best in the dry months, particularly towards the end of the dry season(s), when game concentrate at available water. On the other hand, the wet season is more pleasing to the eye, with lush and verdant vegetation. The rainy season is best for those with an interest in trees, birds and insects.
The wildebeest migration will usually be found in the NCA (Ngorongoro Conservation Area) and southeastern Serengeti in January and February. I can assure you that the sight of wildebeest, zebra etc as far as the eye can see in all directions is so spectacular that it exceeds most people's expectations by a wide margin. The wildebeest calve in February, and the local Masai will keep their cattle away from the plains during that time, because the wildebeests' placentas spread a disease that's deadly to cattle.
Most people, conditioned by wildlife documentaries, believe that the Serengeti consists of endless short-grass plains. Well, guess again! The short-grass plains are only found in a small part of the Serengeti, the very southeast corner. Most of the plains are actually in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. The rest of the Serengeti consists of medium-grass plains, tall-grass plains, mixed woodland and riverine gallery forest. In fact, much of the Serengeti is superficially very similar to Kruger.
Game viewing in Kruger is usually excellent, with a great variety of game to be seen, not to mention the scenic diversity. However, game spotting is often far from easy. To make the most of Kruger you must not only be experienced at spotting game, but you also need to be intimately familiar with the park's flora and fauna. If you know the animals and their behavior, their seasonal migration patterns, how they are influenced by weather and climate, and if you know the roads, water holes, etc. as the back of your hand, the game viewing in Kruger is as good or better than anywhere else. If you don't have the necessary experience, you will end up relying on luck and the skills of other visitors. As I prefer to drive myself, so I have a predilection for Kruger, but it is not something I would recommend to the novice.
With its tarred roads, artificial water holes and at times dense traffic, Kruger has a bit of an artificial feel to it. Once again, if you know the place you can keep the quiet gravel roads and avoid other cars. With a bit of luck you can drive for three to four hours without seeing another car, and have all the game to yourself.
When in Kruger, try to stay in the smaller "bushveld" restcamps. I can provide advice on request.
Game viewing at private lodges. The standards of game viewing at private lodges in southern Africa is generally superior to that encountered in East Africa. Southern African lodges offer a far more sophisticated product, with a ranger/tracker team intimately familiar with the local wildlife, and very knowledgeable about the natural environment. In Eastern Africa you often have a guide/driver only, who may or may not be knowledgeable.
At private lodges you will usually be sharing the vehicle with up to 8 other guests, some of whom just can't shut up. I tend to find the incessant chatter as well as clicking of cameras etc a bit annoying, to say nothing of the often inane questions put to the rangers. These rangers are often walking encyclopedias, but there is a limit to how many times I want to year about the gestation period of an elephant, etc. etc. I prefer to drive myself, or else have sole use of vehicle. The latter is usually unaffordable, though.
Lodges in the Serengeti/Ngorongoro come in two kinds. On the one hand you have the large hotel style lodges, Serena, Sopa etc., that cater to the minivan package tour safaris. On the other hand you have the small exclusive lodge (Grumeti River Lodge, Ndutu, etc) similar in style to their southern African competitors. If you can afford it, go for the latter, if only because you will find yourself in remoter areas, with less (or even no) other vehicles around.
Ngorongoro crater (which is actually a caldera) can be a zoo. I'm not referring to animals here, but to people and vehicles. If you want to make the most of your stay, it is essential that you descend into the crater as soon as the gate opens (6 a.m., if things haven't changed). This will give you a head start, as most other guests don't start off until after breakfast. So forget about breakfast, and bring food along, but don't use the picnic site by the dam, especially not at lunchtime, when it looks like a supermarket parking lot! Use the picnic site in the Lerai forest instead, and if you try to have an early or late lunch you may well have the site to yourself. Once again, make sure to leave you lodge early in the morning, so that you can be at the top of the descent road when the gate opens.
Plan your itinerary to allow for two full-day game drives in the Ngorongoro crater. The weather is not completely reliable, you don't want your only day marred by mist, fog or rain.
johan
YVR Cockroach
May 4, 04, 2:16 pm
We decided on Tanzania. Will fly in from NBO to Arusha and then spend 3 nights each in Ngorongoro and Serengeti Serena properties. Hope to get out to the Grumeti river as the wildebeest and zebras should be getting ready to cross the Nile croc-infested river!
fallinasleep
May 4, 04, 10:38 pm
We'll probably be crossing paths in NBO at some point, as I will be passing through in the second half of June. Still deciding on where to go though, as time and $$$ are both in short supply, although I have always wanted to see the wildebeest migration in person. Just wish the animals were in K now instead of across the border...
Did you book directly with a local outfitter? Have you booked your Arusha flights yet?
Here's a good site that I've visited for ideas on safaris in Africa:
http://www.ultimateafrica.com/Wildebeest_migration.html
(although the prices are scary ... mainly useful for destinations and itineraries)
johan rebel
May 5, 04, 4:04 am
Have fun, both of you.
As most wildebeeste don't wear watches or carry calendars around, they are not very good at timing the river crossing to suit waiting tourists. Unless you have the time and money to hang around for four weeks or so, you will need a bit of luck to witness the crossing.
johan
YVR Cockroach
May 5, 04, 11:14 am
although I have always wanted to see the wildebeest migration in person. Just wish the animals were in K now instead of across the border...
They're only in Kenya for a month or so? Quite limited time there.
Did you book directly with a local outfitter? Have you booked your Arusha flights yet?
We booked through Serena Hotels (http://www.serenahotels.com/). Maybe not a outfitter but local (also has a property in Kabul :eek: though I don't see tours being offered there anytime soon). They've included the NBO-JRO/Serengeti-ARK-ZNZ-NBO flights. Was expensive (still less that ultimateafrica.com) but seems competitive with bushbuckltd.com - I can forward their a la carte menu quote to you. Another to try is roysafaris.com It appears the operators baded outside the region usually subcontract to local outfits and take a fat cut.
You might be able to join a safari as an add-on. Getting to Tanzania isn't too bad. Nairobi-Arusha is USD 10 OW by commuter bus.
As for seeing the crossing, I can always hope! Have my 300mm lense. I just need a camera body now!
Tango
May 5, 04, 12:25 pm
If heading into Southern Africa, there are many other places to consider besides Kruger. You should consider:
The Okavango Delta, Kafue National park and Etosha National Park.
johan rebel
May 6, 04, 2:01 am
If heading into Southern Africa, there are many other places to consider besides Kruger.
There are indeed. I'd be happy to provide information based on personal experience on many of these, including Etosha, Namib/Naukluft/Sesriem/Sossusvlei, Bwabwata (formerly Caprivi), the Okavango/Chobe/Moremi/Savuti, Kwando, Lower Zambezi, Kgalagadi (formerly Kalahari Gemsbok), Addo Elephant, Pilanesberg, Madikwe, Welgevonden (Waterberg), Mashatu, Mpumalanga/Limpopo Lowveld, the major KwaZulu-Natal parks as well as a number of smaller reserves and national parks.
Just ask.
johan
Mill Creek Don
May 7, 04, 11:05 pm
Any experience with Zulu Nyala? We purchased a trip at a charity auction and have until April 2006 to use it. Any time of the year works for us, so suggestions on when to go will be appreciated.
Feel free to send me a PM. Thanks!
johan rebel
May 8, 04, 2:07 pm
Any experience with Zulu Nyala?
No, but I shall post some general tips and suggestions. Give me a few days to find the time.
johan
Edited to add :
Oops! Forgot about my promise here. Sorry. Give me a few more days.
bocastephen
May 9, 04, 2:41 pm
I am curious to know if anyone can report some recent experiences doing Gorilla treks in Rwanda....how is the viewing and accomodations these days?
Also, I remember reading a very interesting article in a men's magazine last year about a safari operator who ran night-time trips into Kruger (I think), or a nearby park in Southern Africa to view lions. The trip was described as very intense, with passengers on an elevated swamp-buggy like thing that gets surrounded by hungry lions out on the prowl. I tried to order a reprint of the magazine to get the outfit's name, but I was unsuccessful.....can anyone recall which company runs this trip? The photo opportunities on this trip were described as superb.
Thank you :)
atlingold
May 13, 04, 8:30 pm
Also, I remember reading a very interesting article in a men's magazine last year about a safari operator who ran night-time trips into Kruger (I think), or a nearby park in Southern Africa to view lions. The trip was described as very intense, with passengers on an elevated swamp-buggy like thing that gets surrounded by hungry lions out on the prowl.
Almost every camp in Kruger offers night drives where you can see animals. I went on two and on each trip saw at least three lions. The lions walked within 5 feet of the truck. Rhinos and hippos also were practically within arms reach of the truck. The key for going on a night drive is to sit in a seat with a spotlight. That means you are in control of the light instead of relying on an 8 year old who is pointing it all over the place instead of at the animal.
The more dramatic trip offered by the park was the morning walk. When walking in the bush you are right there with the animals. We got within about 30 yards of four lions. The guides who led it were very knowledgeable and pointed out many of the animals you can't see from your car: spiders, snakes, and other stuff. I met a guide who leads 5-7 days bushwalks. When I go back to Kruger, that is what I am going to do. The guide is a tracker and if you want to go see rhinos, you walk around to find rhinos.
The southern part of Kruger has way more cars than the northern parts. In the south you can't drive for more than 15 minutes on a tar road without seeing a car. In the northern parts, they were far fewer. I saw just as many animals on the tar roads as the gravel roads.
johan rebel
May 14, 04, 1:54 pm
At private game lodges, the afternoon game drive continues as a night drive after sundowners.
Kruger camps offer night drives, it is a good idea to book these in advance as they are very popular. The larger camps use Toyota Dyna trucks seating 20+ passengers, the smaller ones use Toyota Landcruisers seating 9. The latter offer a nicer experience.
No night drive can or will guarantee lion sightings. In my experience, the night drives offering the greatest chance of seeing lions are Satara and Orpen (which includes Tamboti and Maroela). The only night drive where I have seen lion every single time is Berg & Dal, but that must have been pure luck.
It should be remembered that the primary object of a night drive is to look for animals that are not, or only very rarely, seen by day, e.g. genets, civets, porcupines, etc. You can see any number of lions by day, so spending the better part of a night drive staring at lions doing nothing of interest can be a waste of time.
Getting hold of a spotlight is a good idea, but only if you have considerable experience spotting game at night. It is not as easy as it sounds. I've seen plenty of middle-aged overseas tourists shining the light at the same angle all night, and doing a lot worse than keen and alert kids. If anybody is interested, I would be pleased to provide some hints on game spotting, both by day and night.
The larger Kruger rest camps offer morning and afternoon bush walks, accompanied by two guides. There are also wilderness trail camps, these last 2 days / 3 nights. The latter are very popular, and need to be booked at least a year in advance. Booking at shorter notice is possible if there are cancelations. Another (more expensive) option is Rhino Post, a private concession in Kruger bordering Sabi Sands. There are two camps, Rhino Post and Plains Camp. Morning and afternoon walks are offered, as well as night drives. The game viewing is excellent.
Animals generally don't care if roads are tar or gravel, with one exception : tar roads are smooth and warm at night, and therefore popular sleeping places, especially in cold weather. It is possible to maximize your chances of seeing game by carefully planning your route in advance, taking into consideration such factors as time of year, (expected) weather, seasonal and daily animal movements, animal behavior, availability (or lack of) water, where game was seen on previous drives, etc. This requires experience, and excellent knowledge of Kruger's road network and wildlife.
Northern Kruger is indeed much quieter, but with a bit of luck it should be possible to drive two or three hours in southern Kruger without meeting another vehicle. You need to plan your route to avoid the busier roads and oncoming traffic.
Give Kruger a wide berth during school vacations, long weekends and public holidays.
johan
Jmeredith
May 15, 04, 10:28 am
If anybody is interested, I would be pleased to provide some hints on game spotting, both by day and night.
Yes please! It seems everyone else sees stuff before I do!
YVR Cockroach
Jun 21, 04, 11:11 am
Just back from the Africa trip. Went to Hilton Salt Lick Lodge in Kenya and Ngorongoro and Serengeti in Tanzania.
Much less wildlife at the Hilton game reserve than the Tanzania parks but the advantage is that you can see the comings at goings at the watering hole. Very interesting to watch.
The Tanzania parks were fantastic with the concentration of game.
Ngorongoro was fantastic given that the wildlife population pretty much stays in there (though some wildebeest and zebras migrate in and out and male elephants might migrate to the caldera rim for mating). No giraffes in the caldera (none of the right acacias) or impalas (too open). There were black rhinos but they chose to stay far away from any roads.
Caught the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti N.P. The herds had moved away from the plains of the south/east part to the bushlands of the Seronera - had not moved to the western corridor or crossed the Grumeti yet. There is some hesitancy on my part to ever watch the latter as tourist vehicles apparently can cause panic and mass drownings. Literally saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras, but strangely very few predators give the numbers of prey.
Note that night drives in the Tanzania parks are forbidden, as is off-road driving (officially).
Trip report to follow sometime.
johan rebel
Jun 23, 04, 9:29 am
There were black rhinos but they chose to stay far away from any roads.
I find Ngorongoro Crater one of the better places to observe black rhino, second only to Nairobi National Park. In both places black rhino are easily and regularly observed in the open, whereas just about everywhere else they tend to stick to very thick bush, or else consciously avoid the vicinity of roads during daylight hours. The latter is very obvious in the Kruger National Park, where all the black rhinos I've seen (all of eight in close to forty visits), were caught by surprise (except for one observed on foot).
No giraffes in the caldera (none of the right acacias)
Giraffe eat the leaves and pods of fever trees (Acacia xanthophloea), which are plentiful in the Lerai Forest, although many of the trees there are a bit on the tall side even for giraffes. I suspect that the steep ascent and descent routes might be more of a deterrent. Giraffes are not exactly mountain goats.
Literally saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras, but strangely very few predators give the numbers of prey.
All my visits to the Serengeti have coincided with the presence of wildebeest in zebras in numbers almost beyond counting, so I have no personal experience of predator viewing "out of season". However, guides working in the Serengeti have told me that they find it much easier to locate predators when the migratory herds are not present. This stands to reason, because when there is a surfeit of prey predators don't have to work very hard for a living. Hunting is very easy due to the abundance of prey, especially easily caught newborn wildebeest calves round about February. Often they do not have to hunt at all, food in the form of stillborn calves and adults that have died of various natural causes is abundant. When prey is scarce, predators have to put in more of an effort, moving about to actively locate and hunt game. Also, when prey is everywhere and widely dispersed, so are the predators. When, on the other hand, game is scarcer, the remaining animals tend to congregate in areas where food, water and shelter are all available. The predators follow.
On a visit in January with pleanty of unseasonable rain I had more leopard than lion sightings. The veld was soaking wet, and all the leopards were in trees trying to figure out how to balance their need for food with their desire not to get their paws wet.
Note that night drives in the Tanzania parks are forbidden, as is off-road driving (officially).
The former is a pity, but allowing night drives in parks where visitors may drive around by themselves is not practical. Last time I visited Ngorongoro and Serengeti (January 2002, if I remember correctly), the autorities were selling permits to drive off-road, at the modest price of US$ 100 per vehicle per day!
Trip report to follow sometime.
I look forward to it!
johan
johan rebel
Jul 5, 04, 2:52 pm
Yes please! It seems everyone else sees stuff before I do!
OK, it took me a while to get around to it (sorry!), but here goes :
The basic rules are pretty simple :
come prepared
drive slowly
look carefully
concentrate
Concentration is as important as it is difficult. If you don't focus completely on what you are doing, you will overlook animals, both large and small. Daydreaming or discussing the price of airline tickets with your companions is therefore not a good idea.
Speed is always a compromise. Drive slowly, and you will miss less, and thus see more. Drive faster, and you will overlook more, but because you cover more ground you could end up seeing more anyway. The right speed will depend on numerous factors, such as the time of day, the time of year, climate, weather, visibility, vegetation, your (lack of) familiarity with the area, what particular species of game you are looking for, etc. This also means that your speed will constantly vary as circumstances change.
Many people have a tendecy to increase speed in open areas where visibility is good, such as grass plains. This sounds logical, but remember that you may need to do several scans to cover a given area, focussing on the near, middle and far distance in turn, and therefore need to adjust your speed accordingly.
When planning a game drive, you should allow an hour for every 10-20 kilometers you intend to travel. Allowing for time spent stationary viewing animals etc., your average speed will probably be between 20 and 30 kilometers per hour, although this is only a very rough guideline. Driving faster than 40 km/h is generally not advisable, not even in the few reserves where it is actually permitted, such as on tar roads in the Kruger National Park, where the maximum speed is 50 km/h. There may be a few occasions when driving at 50 will be necessary, like when you have got your planning wrong and are running late for the gate, but these are rare exceptions.
Looking carefully is also easier said than done, there are many factors to take into account :
- Remember that although your eyes are located at the front of your head, the latter is mounted on swivel, and can actually be turned in all sorts of directions. A proper scan starts by looking back over the one shoulder, and then turning the head until you are looking over the other shoulder. Repeating this process continuously whilst driving at a suitable speed, minimizes your chances of overlooking game. This of course assumes you are in a seat where you have a more or less unrestricted forward view. If not, you will of course have to modify your scan. If you are in the back seat of an ordinary sedan, you have little choice but to concentrate on the side you are sitting on. If two persons are sitting in front they may agree to concentrate on one side each.
- The more experienced game spotter should not forget to include the rearview mirror in his scan. Certain animals (especially leopards, blessed with both camouflage and cunning) may hide on the approach on a vehicle, and then cross the road as soon as it has passed. To increase my field of view I tuck in the wing mirrors, but try to make sure that the remaining mirror is in my peripheral field of vision on each scan.
- If you are in a closed car, drive with all your windows open . Not only because it allows you to see better, but also because it allows you to hear and smell better. Even in inclement weather it should be possible to have the windows open on at least one side of the vehicle. If it is windy or rainy, rather wear a sweater, jacket, cap or even gloves than close the windows.
- don' forget to use your other senses . You can be five meters from an elephant, and still not see it. Chances are that you will be able to smell or hear it instead. The smell of putrefaction may well be somewhat unappealing to humans, but many animals find it irresistible. Any foul smell warrants a thorough investigation!
- Don't stare . Along with not turning the head, staring is a mistake I commonly observe, usually in combination with the former. Many people will look out the window at a certain angle, fix their gaze at a specific distance, and let everything else pass in a blur. Not a good idea. Use your eyes actively, focussing on the near, middle and far distance as circumstances and conditions dictate, as well as looking up into trees, down into the shade under bushes, and as through the branches and leaves of the vegetation.
Also, don't stare at things in the far distance along the road. Either stop and look through your binoculars, or continue your normal scan until you get close enough to make an identification. This goes both for distant specks that might be animals, as well as other features of interest such as water holes.
Don't stare at the water. I don't know how many times I've seen people drive up to a drinking place, look at the water and drive away again, never noticing the pride of lions under the tree a few meters away. Always scan the entire area around a water hole, whether there are animals drinking or not. If there are none, there may a very good reason for absence, even though it is not readily apparent.
- Use your peripheral vision . This is especially important at night, when you are focusing on the narrow beam of the spotlight, but even in daylight you should try to observe the terrain ahead out of the corner of your eye. This allows you to decide if there are any features up ahead that warrant your special attention.
- Always look the other way . Just because there's an elephant on the left, it doesn't mean there isn't a pride of lions on the right. Just because there is a water hole on the right, where animals might be expected to drink, it doesn't mean the veld on the left is devoid of game. Every time you stop at a sighting, you should check the surroundings in all directions.
- When in doubt, check it out . If you see something you can't identify, stop and use your binoculars. For the novice this can be very time consuming and frustrating, because the veld is full of African wild rocks and African wild logs that take great pleasure in impersonating all sorts of interesting animals. As you gain experience, this will become less of a problem.
- Look for tracks and signs on the road. Not only of animals but also vehicles. If there is a vehicle ahead of you and you see that is has suddenly come to a screeching halt and then reversed some distance, you may not only infer that they have been driving too fast, but also that they may have spotted something. Even though there may actually have been nothing to see, or the animal has long since moved on, it is a good idea to slow down a bit and look even more carefully than usual. You never know. Identifying which animals have crossed or walked along the road is also extremely useful. Even a novice should at least recognize the pug marks of carnivores and the tracks of elephant.
Come prepared . At a minimum, you should know which animals occur in a particular area or reserve, and what they look like. Being familiar with their behavior and habits is also highly recommended. Knowing what to look for, and where and when to do it, makes things a great deal easier. Once you recognize the characteristic and incessant swishing of the zebra's tail, these animals can identified with the naked eye at distances well exceeding a kilometer, to give but one example. There are various publications available which can be studies before going on safari. Peter Apps' Wild Ways is perhaps the most accessible, and Richard Despard Estes' books are probably the most comprehensive and detailed guides written for the lay public. Make sure to bring a pair of good binoculars and a field guide illustrating the common mammals of the area. If you have special interests (birds, insects, trees and shrubs), you will want to purchase and study the relevant field guides.
Plan your game drives carefully. Make sure you have good maps, read all you can about the reserve you are visiting, speak to staff and other visitors upon arrival, etc. Get all the information you can and then sit down each evening and plan the next days game drive(s). The plan need of course not be adhered to rigidly, it should adapted as and when circumstances require.
Enlist the help of the animals, they have better senses than you, not to mention more experience and a vested interest in staying alive. Alarm calls are particularly useful, especially those of monkeys. These tend to scramble to the tops of trees when frightened, from which they stare at the perceived threat, calling loudly all the while.
Enlist the help of other people. If you are driving along a road, flag down the first oncoming vehicle you meet, and exchange information. If you see one or more stationary vehicles, and it is not readily apparent what they are looking at, don't be shy to ask. Even when you think you know what they are looking at, you might be mistaken. I've had people drive past because they assumed I was looking that boring giraffe, whereas I was actually watching a leopard walking through the grass, and that's only one of many examples.
A novice wishing to improve his game spotting skills as quickly as possible is well advised to select a small reserve (or a particular section of a larger one) and to visit as often as possible. Being well familiar with a certain area makes game spotting a lot easier. Not only will you not waste your time trying to identify all the wild logs and rocks, but when you are intimately familiar with the terrain, vegetation and animals in an area you will immediate notice things that deviate from the normal state of things. That which others would never notice suddenly becomes glaringly apparent. Where is that herd of impala that always hangs around this stretch of road? Why has that tree trunk suddenly changed its shape? Why does the outline of that rocky outcrop suddenly look different? Why is that troop of baboons not roosting in its usual tree?
Next time you are amazed by your tracker's and ranger's astounding spotting skills, you should remember that not only is it something they do every day, but they also know the area they work in better than the backs of their respective hands. When they point out that Giant Eagle Owl roosting in the deep shade of the canopy of a leafy tree 500 meters away, it may not be proof of their supernatural visual acuity, but rather of the fact that they know from experience that this particular owl regularly roosts in that particular tree.
Finally, a word on night drives. If you are not operating the spotlight, don't follow the beam, it's a waste of your time. Look at the stars or close your eyes and relax. When the spotlight operator finds something of interest, he will let you know.
If you are operating the spotlight, you may find the following hints useful :
- although you should keep your eyes glued to the beam, you need to use your peripheral vision to study the approaching terrain. This allows you to plan where to shine the light next.
- you should strive to covered the terrain on either side of the vehicle at least twice, from different angles. This is especially important in vegetated terrain, as it will allow you to shine behind as many shrubs and trees as possible. It is therefore better to do two fast sweeps than one slow one. I know that fast sweeps tend to annoy other people on the vehicle, who have a hard time following the beam and fear you will overlook things, but the truth of the matter is that you will not miss much even if you move the light quickly.
- the assumption that animals at night are always spotted by the reflection of the light in their eyes is not correct. You need to look for shape and movement as well. Many animals with bright eyes are also bright enough to close them, or avert their gaze, when somebody shines a 1,000,000 candle power light at them. It is also a good idea to shine diagonally behind the vehicle whenever possible. Some animals will hide, but get up and look at the vehicle again when they believe the danger is over. Leopards spring to mind once again. There are also large animals with small eyes that hardly reflect any light at all, such as elephants and rhinos.
- you can not identify animals by the color of their eyes, the color changes with the reflection angle. On the other hand, it may be possible to identify many animals by the way their eyes move (or don't). In other words, how do they react to the light? Do they just stand and stare? Do they crouch down? Run away? Bounce around and jump from tree to tree?
- if the eyes are very distant, a number of clues can aid identification. Is it solitary animal? A pair? A herd? Are the eyes closely spaced? Are the animals bunched together or spread out? Standing, moving or lying down? Bobbing their heads? And so forth.
- in very open areas, it is generally pointless to shine in the far distance. You will only spot lots of eyes so far away that identification is impossible, which is a waste of time. Rather shine your beam no further than 50-100 meters.
- learn as much as you can about nocturnal animals and their behavior. Different animals have different peak activity times, so which animals you are likely to encounter also depends on what time of night you are driving at. In most game reserves night drives start around sunset and last only a couple of hours, which means that species that only become active late evening are rarely seen.
It will be a pleasure to answer any further questions.