Okay, I have a few questions about Africa travel. As background I'm a 30ish solo female traveler and I'll maybe be there for a week or two in August of this year. Here are my questions:

1. What's the best way to keep assessed of the safety situation in places like Johannesburg and Victoria Falls area, both of which I hope to visit? I've traveled by myself a fair bit across central and western Europe, and some in Japan, but Africa does have me a little wary.

2. Any advice for visiting Victoria Falls? I was thinking of flying JNB-VFA and then staying... well, somewhere, I'm not sure where. That's the issue.

3. I've set aside 5 days in Johannesburg for a safari somewhere in or around Kruger. It seems like a lot of safari companies do transfers, usually air, from Johannesburg. I saw you can arrange tours on the Kruger Park web site. Is this the best way to go about it, booking in advance? Or could I find a TA reasonably easily in Jo'burg and book something good at a discount the day before departure?

4. What are the BA/Comair intra-Africa flights like?

The Comair/BA flights are excellent, planes in good condition and better food than you get in the US (e.g. meal served on the short JNB-CPT flight, in fact on most flights). Definitely a first-world experience unlike some other airlines in Africa. Safety in parts of rural SA is a concern, particularly for a solo female passenger; be sure you know what you are getting in to. If there is any part of New York City that you would not walk in by yourself at night (and I do mean any part), be cautious in Johannesburg. If driving be aware that it is legal to run red lights if in danger of being car-jacked (yes, it is that bad in a few areas). Stick to the nice neighbourhoods (Sandton and Rosebank in Johannesburg) and you will be safe, even on the street ... but notice the heavy private security guard presence at the shopping malls ... they are there for a reason! If you behave as though in a nasty part of NY you should be OK and still enjoy what is a beautiful country. Booking safaris in advance might be advantageous if you get a rate that was set a few months ago (before the US dollar fell so much). Some of the most expensive packages may not have been repriced yet and are thus 30% cheaper. Normally it is cheaper to book in SA but that might not be true for a short while due to the recent exchange rate movements. Kruger is the best safari and this is the best time of the year (the grass is short and you can see the animals much better!). It is also possible to take a 1 or 2 day safari from Sun City (you can arrange at your hotel there) if you don't have time or can't do Kruger.

number_6 - when were you last in SA? I'm also in PDX and we're going in Sept. Namibia first, then George to CPT, then to Sabi Sands for safari.

Since we're spending absolutely no time in J'burg (because of the security issues), can you comment on security in Cape Town, and specifically Sea Point? I'm most worried about car-jackings in CPT. Your thoughts are appreciated! http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by pdxasflyer:
number_6 - when were you last in SA? I'm also in PDX and we're going in Sept. Namibia first, then George to CPT, then to Sabi Sands for safari.

Since we're spending absolutely no time in J'burg (because of the security issues), can you comment on security in Cape Town, and specifically Sea Point? I'm most worried about car-jackings in CPT. Your thoughts are appreciated! http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif</font>

How are you getting to Sabi Sand? Isn't that up near Jo'burg?

The only thing that's taking me to Jo'Burg (aside from being my port of entry) is wanting to go on a Safari. Kruger Park looks nice. I thought Sabi Sand was near it.

I've been in JNB and CPT 3 times in the past year. Not an expert in the area (just a visitor, but I have friends living there). Security is very hard to quantify, as either nothing will happen (and you will see little to disturb you), or it will be horrific. The trick is to assess the odds. By definition travel is an adventure, so it is less safe than staying at home, and nothing wrong with that. The problem is that tourists in SA are a big target (partly because they are unlikely to return to SA to testify at a trial, and a criminal knows the chance of conviction is much greater if attacking a resident -- so they target the tourists). Partly because tourists are carrying lots of valuables. Partly because they won't know the local situation. Most crime is non-violent, and the nice looking suburbs in JNB and CPT are safe. Downtown is iffy to completely unsafe depending on the area. It may not be worse than the worst part of NYC, but it certainly is no better. Luckily there is no good reason to visit those parts of town as a tourist so you can easily avoid it. Similarly some isolated rural roads are notorious for ambushing cars but you should not be on such roads by yourself (touring on back roads in unknown country in SA is not the same as doing that in Vermont!). I want to encourage you to see SA -- it is a beautiful country -- but do the research on security before you stray from tourist attraction areas. VFA is a problem now, due to the potential for major strife in Zimbabwe (this is perhaps a bigger concern than SA). Up to now VFA has been unaffected by the problems in Zimbabwe, but that appears to be changing and you should consult the US State dept bulletins before going to VFA in my opinion. A shame as it is a beautiful area.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by pdxasflyer:
[Bcan you comment on security in Cape Town, and specifically Sea Point? I'm most worried about car-jackings in CPT[/B]</font>Sea Point is very safe. Driving in SA is an adventure, ignoring the crime aspect. Many trucks and vans on the road that are very dilapidated and going at 20 mph (maybe their maximum speed), also losing control due to blown tires (they can't afford decent tires, this is a country with an average wage under $5 per day and high unemployment). So you have to be prepared to brake and maneuver around unexpected traffic (while driving on the wrong side of the road). For car jacking you should ask your rental company for instructions on what to do, they will give you a brochure with the police recommendations. It may be wiser to hire a car and driver unless you are skilled. Driving in the US is not adequate preparation for extensive driving in SA. Personally I would never attempt to drive from CPT to JNB (one of the safest routes in the country) as it is far too dangerous. Other routes (e.g. parts of the east cape) can be 100x more dangerous. I have rented cars in SA (and enjoyed driving around JNB and PRT) but I would not recommend it to someone who is unfamiliar with the area prior to renting. If you do rent a car, don't do it at the airport upon arrival in SA, spend a couple of days getting familiar with conditions (and overcoming jet lag), then you can be better prepared for driving.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by ebell:
How are you getting to Sabi Sand? Isn't that up near Jo'burg?

The only thing that's taking me to Jo'Burg (aside from being my port of entry) is wanting to go on a Safari. Kruger Park looks nice. I thought Sabi Sand was near it.</font>

Jo'burg is only a through-point for us. We'll only see the airport. We're goint to Sabi Sands (Ulusaba, specifically) via Federal Air (a very nice charter company) that Ulusaba and most of the other reserves bordering Kruger use. So, yes, Sabi Sands lies adjacent to Kruger.

We may drive out to Blyde River Canyon and Pilgrim's Rest and that little loop, but that will be our only venture into rural SA. Since those are popular tourist routes, we're hoping that crime will be low there. We haven't read anything to the contrary, though.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by number_6:
It may be wiser to hire a car and driver unless you are skilled. Driving in the US is not adequate preparation for extensive driving in SA. Personally I would never attempt to drive from CPT to JNB (one of the safest routes in the country) as it is far too dangerous. Other routes (e.g. parts of the east cape) can be 100x more dangerous. I have rented cars in SA (and enjoyed driving around JNB and PRT) but I would not recommend it to someone who is unfamiliar with the area prior to renting. If you do rent a car, don't do it at the airport upon arrival in SA, spend a couple of days getting familiar with conditions (and overcoming jet lag), then you can be better prepared for driving.</font>

By the time we pickup our rental car in George (near Knysna and Plett Bay), we'll have been in Southern Africa (Namibia) for a week. We're staying in Knysna two nights (seeing Oudtshoorn and Plett Bay area) then we'll drive to Cape Town. Hopefully, that should get us acclimated to left-side driving (in a small community) prior to hitting the Mother City.

Our driving in and around Cape Town will be to get to places like the V&A (to catch ferries to Robben Island), to the Table Mtn. cable car, to Stellenbosh and the wine country, Kirstenbosch, the Cape of Good Hope loop, and finally from Sea Point to the airport. We might even go back out to Hermanus to watch the whales, time permitting. So that's the extent of our driving. We're not planning to go to (or through) the less desireable areas.

Any more specific thoughts about those areas. And, thanks again for all the great tips - very helpful and much appreciated!

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by pdxasflyer:
Jo'burg is only a through-point for us. We'll only see the airport. We're goint to Sabi Sands (Ulusaba, specifically) via Federal Air (a very nice charter company) that Ulusaba and most of the other reserves bordering Kruger use. So, yes, Sabi Sands lies adjacent to Kruger.</font>

Ah. That's the problem with my schedule, my international flight doesn't arrive until 4 pm so I don't think I'll be able to take a charter out that night. That leads to one day in Jo'burg itself.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by ebell:
Ah. That's the problem with my schedule, my international flight doesn't arrive until 4 pm so I don't think I'll be able to take a charter out that night. That leads to one day in Jo'burg itself.</font>You can stay at the airport Intercontinental (hotel is conversion of the airport administration building and bellmen will take your luggage to the check-in counter). Or any of the Sandton hotels are safe (I stayed at the Sandton Intercontinental and enjoyed it, recommended over the Hilton and others as it is attached to the shopping center so you don't have to walk outside on any of the streets if you don't want to).

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by ebell:
Ah. That's the problem with my schedule, my international flight doesn't arrive until 4 pm so I don't think I'll be able to take a charter out that night. That leads to one day in Jo'burg itself.</font>

Federal Air flies from JNB to SZK (Skukuza) at 9:30, 11:30 and 13:30.

SZK is closed to scheduled flights, hence the "scheduled charter" flights operated by Federal Air. You can't buy a ticket for a flight only, it must be in conjuction with a stay at one of the private game lodges in Kruger or the adjacent reserves.

johan

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">1. What's the best way to keep assessed of the safety situation in places like Johannesburg and Victoria Falls area, both of which I hope to visit?</font>

As I understand it, the security situation in South Africa doesn't change very much from month to month... as other posters have said, it's dangerous in some places, just like other countries, and safe in others. Victoria Falls, however, I've heard is more problematic, especially in Zimbabwe. If I were you, I'd stay on the Zambia side and keep your wits about you.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">2. Any advice for visiting Victoria Falls? I was thinking of flying JNB-VFA and then staying... well, somewhere, I'm not sure where. That's the issue.</font>

The Royal Livingstone (http://www.island-safari.co.uk/hotels/royal.htm) & the Zambezi Sun (http://www.wildlifeafrica.co.za/zambezisun.html) both came highly recommended to us. We skipped Vic Falls altogether, tho... long way to go and not much to do except marvel at the waterfall. I'd rather go back to Iguaçu Falls.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">3. I've set aside 5 days in Johannesburg for a safari somewhere in or around Kruger. It seems like a lot of safari companies do transfers, usually air, from Johannesburg. I saw you can arrange tours on the Kruger Park web site. Is this the best way to go about it, booking in advance? Or could I find a TA reasonably easily in Jo'burg and book something good at a discount the day before departure?</font>

Sabi Sands is the most luxurious of the game reserves... I wouldn't hesitate to go back. And I can't say enough about Chitwa Chitwa Safari Lodge (http://www.chitwa.co.za/Safari_Lodge/m_safari.htm). It's half the price of the others, and truly spectacular. We bought tickets on SAA Airlink JNB-HDS and then took a private air taxi to the game lodge. Elsewhere, you can sometimes snag good last-minute deals at http://www.mtbeds.co.za (officially available only to S.A. residents) -- but the previous poster is right. If you can buy a package in US Dollars that hasn't yet been redeoniminated, you'll come out way ahead.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">4. What are the BA/Comair intra-Africa flights like?</font>

They're fabulous, as are SAA Airlink flights. If you just want to shuttle between Jo'burg, Cape Town, and Durban, take kulula.com (http://www.kulula.com). It's the Southwest/EasyJet of South Africa.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"> Ah. That's the problem with my schedule, my international flight doesn't arrive until 4 pm so I don't think I'll be able to take a charter out that night. That leads to one day in Jo'burg itself.</font>

Going to Johannesburg (including the Apartheid Museum (http://www.joburg.org.za/november/apartheid.stm)) & Pretoria (including the Voortrekker Monument (http://www.voortrekkermon.org.za/Structure/S01.00_frameeng.htm)) are crucial if you want to understand South African's recent political & cultural history. There's no reason to avoid the entire Johannesburg area for security reasons. However, the touristy attractions of the region are more cerebral than physical -- if you just want beautiful landscapes, cute animals, etc., then there's not much there.

David

PS: One follow-up on security matters... I'd rather stay at The Saxon (http://www.thesaxon.com) in Jo'burg than just about any hotel in the world. And the safest I think I've ever felt was at Chitwa Chitwa. They don't even have locks on the doors. -drm

[edited to pontificate http://www.flyertalk.com/travel/fttravel_forum/smile.gif]

[This message has been edited by IndyDavid (edited 06-09-2003).]

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Originally posted by ebell:
...1. What's the best way to keep assessed of the safety situation in places like Johannesburg and Victoria Falls area,...but Africa does have me a little wary.</font>
I visted J'burg, Victoria Falls, Nairobi & Parks in Tanzania for 3 weeks last month with my family. Stayed at the Victoia Falls hotel and it there must not have been more than a dozen guests there. It has a great view of the bridge and is walking distance from the Falls. However the short walk to the Falls, the Bridge, and the gorge made us nervous as there were a lot of unemployed local youths hanging around waiting to haggle with hotel guest. Local security guards walked with us to make sure we did not run into trouble. The Victoria Falls hotel is very very expensive and they did not give a discount even with such a low occupancy.



We took the morning SA flight to VFA and returned three days later on returning on the afternoon flight. If you have Delta miles you can use them for the SA flights to VFA. The hotels can arrange for the airport pickup. The Victoria Falls hotel is very very expensive but there are two other hotels right next door. I forget their names but if you really want the names drop me an email and I'll find out.

[quote]<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">3. I've set aside 5 days in Johannesburg for a safari somewhere in or around Kruger. </font>

For such a short stay Kruger would be a good bet. For longer stays I'd venture into Tanzania and/or Kenya.

<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">4. What are the BA/Comair intra-Africa flights like?</font>

Did not use them. We found the service on the SA flights to be quite good. I burned up some Delta miles to fly the four of us in Business Class to Victoria Falls and then some more miles to fly to Nairobi.

[This message has been edited by ROW2Aisle (edited 07-07-2003).]