My best friend and I take a major trip once every 5-6 years. We just settled on a destination: Italy. Nothing really more specific than that, just Italy. Our most likely intinerary for the trip would cover the areas between Venice and Tuscany (maybe Umbria) and take about two weeks.

Here's the problem. I am a bargain hunter, but prefer flexibility and lack of structure. I know I want to spend a few days just driving around the countryside, finding cool little inns to stay in, etc. I've been many places that were less "civilized," and never had a problem with the language barrier, etc, as long as I was friendly and tried at least a few words in their language.

The mere idea of getting behind the wheel in a foreign land gives her hives (as does the idea of setting foot outside the established tourist corridors.) She's angling for a completely structured tour and doesn't mind the upcharges that always come with those. Also, she's bugged about the language issue even though she actually speaks some Italian.

I'm looking for a happy medium. Is anyone aware of a travel service that has a concierge-like presence but doesn't march you around to do the "sights?" We went this route in the UK and it seemed to work out fine.

I would never try to drive in a city (like Florence) but the idea of driving in the countryside appeals to me. How much hassle is it, really, to rent a car and drive yourself?

I'd appreciate any help/advice/info sources. I'm having a hard time sorting out websites by credibility rating.

Driving outside the major cities of Italy is wonderful. I spent last August in Italy with a group of friends and we drove from Rome to just outside Perugia (Umbria) and then from there to Sorrento. From there we hired a car service as I wouldn't recommend driving beyond there to anyone. I did a trip report you might want to check out on the FlyerTalk Miles board. It's called something like, Yes I do live in a castle, and is from August. Rental cars do require insurance there (and it is needed - two out of three of our cars were struck while parked and received minor damage) so they are a bit pricier than other places but Europacar (or is it Auto Europe?) has very good inclusive rates. When we picked up the car in Rome, we arranged to get ours at a location on the outskirts of the city, close to the autostrada on ramp and on a Sunday morning when there was little traffic.

Italy is a bargain. There are the agri inns you can stay in for cheap and lots of little places you'll find along the way. If you drive to Perugia, for example, it's no problem to then take a train into Florence (you don't want to take a car there either).

My husband, son and I speak quite a bit of Italian, but the rest of our group didn't and they did quite well. Charades is always fun.

Enjoy your trip.

Welcome to FlyerTalk!

I flew in & out of Venice about a year ago, and rented a car to drive into Croatia & back. The car rentals are more expensive because of the insurance requirement, but not undoable. My little Fiat Uno was about $300 for the week, paying a little extra to get into Croatia.

Venice is wonderful, and should be on your itinerary for at least a few days. It's not inexpensive, and rooms book fast for the summer. If you do a rental car, it's useless there--you have to pay to park it the whole time.

The autostrada goes very fast, and I never saw a posted limit where I was driving. I ran about 80 MPH, and still had many cars passing me. The countryside is gorgeous, and is very enjoyable by car.

In regards to the tour/concierge thing, my only similar experience was a package in Switzerland with American Express. They bundled my airfare, railpass and lodging. The lodging was a voucher system, and I could book most--but not all--nights prior to leaving. That left some flexibility after I arrived, with a selection of rooms around the country that were already paid for. Pricewise, it was reasonable, cheaper than AAA. There wasn't a concierge, but the hotels were all at least 3 star and were very helpful. No tour bus, no tours. I was on my own upon arrival. I expect I could have called AMEX if I got really stuck. This was my first solo trip to Europe, and it was a good way to start.

Today, I do all my own booking, and do budget whenever I can. Half the fun is researching the trip.

JP

You did not note what time of year you were planning your trip.

May-Sept. is heavy tourist season in Italy. Oct. is still heavy in Tuscany.

A car in the major cities is an expensive burden, and of no use. A car is an absolute necessity in the countryside.

Consider flying to VCE, train to FLR, pick up the car in FLR, drive Umbria, and return the car to airport, or when you arrive at your final major city destination.

I have had good luck with Autoeurope, which is an auto rental broker. There is a 10% tax for airport pickup of a car. Almost every major city has a non-airport Autoeurope pickup site .

Major city hotel rates are quite high, and small town rates very low.(all of Tuscany is a major city).

Do not take a car into a city like Rome or Florence--you will regret it. Return it on the outskirts.

I drove VCE to FLorence to Rome. South of Florence was teh most interesting.

Get a quote for your car that includes EVERYTHING (insurance and all taxes). Thrifty/Italy by Car ripped me off.

Gas is about 3 times as expensive as in the U.S., but the distances are not that great.

VCE is nice but it is overpriced. Its hard to not feal like you are getting ripped off. Rome is a relative bargain.

I second the Agri-Turismo (http://www.agriclub.it/indexuk.asp) recommendation.
You might want to think about staying in Padua instead of Venice. It's about 20-30 mins by train. You can easily drive to Vicenza and Verona as well.
Check out the self drive (http://www.travelvantage.com/tou_ita_self.html) companies for ideas.

Try this link. Many offers (hotel, car, tours) from Alitalia:
http://www.italiatourusa.com/

Other links:
http://www.chianti-doc.com/main.html
http://www.emmeti.it/Welcome/index.uk.html
http://www.tuscany.net/

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Gas is about 3 times as expensive as in the U.S., ...</font>

Yes, gas is expensive in Europe. I always drive/rent a diesel; they consume less, and diesel costs less.

Be aware, too, that at least parts of Italy--again my experience was Venice--do a Siesta of sorts in the early afternoon. This cost me precious time trying to refill the gas tank before returning to the airport. I finally found a station that took not credit cards but cash inserted into a machine at the pumps. Travel is never dull!

JP

j379pa is correct.
In Italy most gas-stations "pay at the pump" take a credit card ONLY when they are open. During the night and siesta time they only take cash/notes.

Good catch on riposo. Another tip on gas stations, if by any chance there is a strike you can usually get gas at the stations on the autostrada. It costs to get on and off, but it's better than no gas.
Just don't get caught low. A couple of years ago we were needed unleaded and most of the stations had not gotten their delivery. We were coasting down the roads of Rodi Garganico.