View Full Version : The Magic of Christmas in Montreal


wigstheone
Dec 19, 01, 11:01 am
MONTREAL -- IT'S Paris without the jet lag, especially at Christmastime.

Here in Montreal, you can't lift a fork without wanting to sink it into a slice of būche de Noėl, the all but bejeweled cake that replicates the Yule log as imagined by Christian Lacroix. You can't walk into a bakery without being tempted by a whole tourtičre, the spiced pork pie in the crumbly crust that is to Christmas here what quiche is to Lorraine.

And you can't take enough comfort in the French Paradox when presented with a perfectly ripe Vacherin Mont d'Or, the super-creamy cheese showcased at the holidays. The only appropriate response is more red wine.

With a French Catholic heritage, Montreal traditionally pulls out every bell, whistle and pāté for the holidays. People here string lights, festoon shop windows and eat with abandon all through December, from the beginning of Advent until the Feast of the Epiphany on Jan. 6. The joy is palpable. Everything from chandeliers in restaurants to food in markets is decked with holly, real or symbolic. Even midnight Mass is followed by feasting and toasting at the French-Canadian supper known as Reveillon.

In contrast with the sobriety south of the Canadian border since Sept. 11, the revelry is almost restorative. People here ask how New York is doing with the affectionate attitude of a nephew wondering about a favorite aunt, and they clearly know how fortunate they are to be celebrating with the carefree exhilaration French-Canadians have indulged in for centuries.

http://www.nytimes.com/2001/12/19/dining/19YULE.html