JDiver

I think Johan will agree with me the issue here is not necessarily to be the fastest, but to not be the slowest.

One of the most interesting times in my life was in Kenya in 1993 ? on a multi-day walking safari to explore a new area near the base of Mt. Kilimanjaro to determine its potential for walking / camping safaris. A garrulous old hippo chasing a younger one (he had killed another youth a few days previously,) veered off from his original chase and headed for us (just before dawn and we were walking between him and "his" river.) We four headed off in different directions (trying to remember not to head for big brushy areas that would make a good lie-up for lion, not to mention the six foot Egyptian cobra we had come across the previous day,) and met up later - our Maasai guide was never seen again. (A year or so later, when walking safaris were offered in this area, a woman from northern California was caught by this hippo and put in hospital for a long time - also cancelling my friends' plans to offer these here.)

I also became an "African illegal" here - swam to Tanzania and back in Lake Chala, and had an interesting time in "Grogan's Castle," a strange castle-like place full of hidey holes and a barred room like a jail cell to protect the occupant not far from Taveta, designed and dwelled in by a rather paranoid and strange man by the name of Grogan, and an old agave plantation where they were making sisal rope and the like with the original pre-1900 machinery.

Walking doesn't produce more game, but it allows you to slow down, look at the small stuff, learn tracking and spoor, and IMO reveals a much more personal perspective as you use all of your senses to explore. It's a bit more of a challenge to stalk rhinos, photograph them, and leave - with their remaining completely unaware of your presence. You get to see their tracks, middens, smell them, hear them... and my memories are much sharper precisely because the planning and thinking, the multi-sensory approach, embed themselves more deeply than a "drive by" in a Land Cruiser.

But I subscribe to the "fewer is better" theory - two or three people on a game walk is so much better than a herd of travellers; you can remain quieter, follow up on your own interests more effectively when there are not many lobbying for their own ideas, and participate in a more deeply personal experience.

Disco Volante

Edward Paice has written a brilliant biography of this unusual man.

Forrest Bump

This thread is stunning.
A safari visitor guide itself.
Well no, much better.
Thanks JDiver and johan rebel

As an Africa junkie, I'm always in pursuit of parks and reserves where I'm allowed to drive my own vehicle.
I found it part of the fun, and always give me an unforgettable feeling which will last forever.
Is there already a list round here?
Could some generous and knowledgeable FTer reassemble these infos and make them available for those, as it is my case now, are looking for another breathtaking safari in Africa?

My experience on a self drive safari is limited so far to:

- Kruger N.P. - SA
- Isimangaliso Wetland Parl - SA
- Hluhluwe Imfolozi Game Reserve - SA
- Etosha N.P. - NAM

I know about Chobe N.P. - BOT
likely my next stop.

And would be great to know more about the eastern Countries, from Mozambique to Tanzania and Kenya.

wastedwords

The tips in this thread are awesome. I wish I read this before my most recent safari. Reading this thread after having been on a recent safari gets me yearning for another trip ASAP. I'm realizing all the opportunities I missed.

Tunapalooza

A very different experience from Kruger may be had at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa's portion of the Kalahari Desert. (Actually, the park is bi-national incorporating land from both South Africa and Botswana. It also borders Namibia.) You will not see elephants or rhinos or hippos - or paved roads - but you will see magnificent landscapes, abundant big cats, and varied and beautiful prey animals like the oryx, hartebeast, springbok, and others. Its considerably more of an adventure than Kruger, particularly for an overseas visitor. You can self-drive in a sedan, but I would recommend 4WD, which would also enable you to reach the magnificent wilderness camps.

johan rebel

Indeed.

I can't resist pointing out, though, that the Kalahari is not a desert. I personally think it is at its best in March or April after good summer rains.

Johan

sweetlax

Just got back from a trip in Kenya; The Lake Nakuru reserve was great and we brought in a private vehicle. They're currently recovering from massive flooding, so a car with all-terrain capabilities is highly recommended!

EDIT: Misread your original post, I thought you were asking about a non-rented car. Not sure about Nakuru's rules on that.

flatlander

Can anyone (especially, I hope, Johan Rebel) recommend good maps of the Kruger NP?

I have looked at the SANParks online map and I have this paper map from "Globetrotter", neither impresses me very much. Google maps don't show a lot (and won't work without mobile data), Open Streetmap has main roads well marked but not small ones.

Is there anything better available?

johan rebel

Do you mean online?

There's a plethora of printed maps, you can buy quite a selection on Amazon. I personally prefer Honeyguide Publications' Kruger National Park Map, but I suspect that's mostly out of habit. I don't really need a map anyway. Although the park is huge, the road network is not that extensive, it is easily learnt by heart.

I see the map I just recommended is not available from Amazon, but all the KNP shops sell them, or something very similar.

The map on SANParks' own website is accurate, but unfortunately doesn't give the numbers of all the gravel roads, nor does it indicate distances.

Johan

Guvner067

With regards to tripods.

One trick is to use a wingnut with a corresponding thread (usually 1/4 inch) and string to make a monopod.

Insert the wingnut in to the socket, tie the string to the wingnut. Make a loop in the other end of the string (a tent guy string is good as you can vary the length quickly and it comes with a ready made loop)



Put the loop over your foot (if standing) or your knee (if sitting) and use gentle upward force to stabilise the camera. Not perfect but does reduce shake quite considerably, especially in a moving vehicle, and it fits in your pocket!

Another tip, grab a few sticks of varying length before you leave. Resting the camera on one while travelling in a vehicle can save your arms from fatigue from holding it "at the ready"over a few hours. Can also be used as a monopod in an emergency,

flatlander

I found that Google Maps shows all possible roads and tracks in the Kruger National Park (and the surrounding game reserves) whether they are usable by the public or not. So this rather misled me as to the complexity of the KNP road network - as johan rebel points out above, it is fairly simple. I can understand his slightly head-shaking response to "where do I find a good map?"

In the end, I found that Google Maps (with a local Vodacom SIM in an iPad) was completely usable outside the park and game reserves, and usable on main roads within but you had to be sure it was routing on public roads. For example Google's suggestion on how to get from a KNP rest camp to a game lodge in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve was to go across the Timbavati PNR, but that's not possible in real life.

For KNP maps, either or the map booklet sold at the (Paul Kruger, perhaps other) KNP gates seem to cover all the roads the public can use. The KNP-supplied map is only R40.

We used the KNP-supplied map and it worked fine. Almost every road junction is signposted, the only thing unmarked is the turn-outs to viewpoints every so often, and one can simply take such turns and rely on getting back on the road easily.

Alpha Golf

Roll. Up. The. Windows. <shakes head>

A tourist believed to be from the US has been killed in a lion attack at a game park in South Africa, a park official has told the BBC.

The lioness jumped through the open window of the couple's car and started mauling the woman, assistant park manager Scott Simpson said.

Paramedics were called to the scene but she died from her injuries, while the man is still receiving treatment.

The popular Lion Park is 30km (19 miles) north of Johannesburg.

The park's rules forbid visitors from driving through the lion enclosure with their windows down, reports the BBC's Milton Nkosi from Johannesburg.

johan rebel

You would be surprised how many people have gotten horribly lost that way.

I can recall guests arriving 24 hours late at at private lodge in the Timbavati because their satnav had taken them to the Timbavati picnic site in the KNP. That's where the S39, S40 and S127 meet, and not that far at all from the Timbavati PNR as the crow flies. A simple matter of somehow crossing the Timbavati River and then finding the right firebreak heading west, ha ha ha.

These guest finally managed to find Orpen Gate in the dead of night, and then checked into the nearest lodgings they could find.

I've also heard of people who somehow did manage to reach the Timbavati from Kruger on a management road, an impressive feat. Not something to be emulated in these rhino poaching times.

Johan

lovetravellingoz

I found this thread most useful for research prior to my recent 6 week trip that I have just returned from.

For cat spotting watching/listening for alarmed animals was the No 1 way that we spotted them. So remember to turn your engine off when you stop!

For leopards this may be monkey alarm calls- look where the monkeys are looking.

For lions- look for animals looking intently all in the one direction.
* ie we saw two giraffes looking intently in one direction and then sure enough several minutes later 2 stalking lions appeared with the giraffes then running away.
* on numerous occassions we saw herds of various animals all/mostly gazing in the one direction. On each such occassion we by then looking around eventually spotted lions or cheetahs.

We also stumbled across other lions and cheeatahs by driving along the roads/tracks The lions often were just sleeping or lolling about...but on one amazing occassion two mating lions were within 5 m of the gravel road! And on another occassion were consuming a dead kudu.

JDiver

Great share.

Always get drivers to shut the engine off when viewing, particularly up close, or photographing game.

The vibrations from the engine spoil many a photograph by inducing motion - and that telephoto that brings game close in also amplifies the motion.

As well, IMO, scents and sounds add to the experience - and game may be more likely to approach a vehicle that is not making noise and exhaust emissions.

And if possible, get fellow riders to agree to BE QUIET! when observing game.