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Old May 30, 2011, 12:32 pm
  #1  
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recommendations for trip / safari to southern / South Africa

Last year I did a 3 day safari near Kruger (Kapama) after attending a conference in JNB. I now want to return and take my family. It will be myself, my husband, my 15-year-old daughter (who is a great traveler), and a friend of mine. So 3 adults and one sort-of kid. My daughter and friend will share a room. I really want to share the incredible experience of a safari with them. My husband is a biologist who studies animal behavior and not into cities, but does like more upscale accommodations. The plan is to go mid-June 2012.

I would love some advice on places to consider. I figure definitely a game park in SA - possibly Sabi Sands or Phinda (or both). The question is whether to do 2 different places in SA. Or whether to consider doing a game park in SA and a different kind of experience in another country in Africa, such as Kenya.

Anyone have any thoughts or recommendations?
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Old Jun 1, 2011, 2:02 pm
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Lucky for you, you are going during one of the overall best months of the year. June is the front end of high season so you can have a really good safari in many parts of Southern Africa.

For safari, I recommend 6-10 nights of animal viewing at 2-4 safari lodges each in geographically diverse and environmentally different ecosystems. Six nights and two safaris are especially recommended if this is your first safari for your family. I know you have already been there but I will give you a broad overview of the countries in Southern Africa and then you should consider which ones appeal to you most for your safari. All will offer you a complete experience and leave you satisfied. All countries in Southern Africa will offer good animal viewing in June. Only the Kafue in Zambia will be a few weeks away from being “ready:.

There are literally hundreds of safari lodges in southern Africa that are frequented by the American market. Within southern Africa there are four major wildlife viewing countries. The first is South Africa, which is by far the most popular country to visit within southern Africa. Part of the reason is due to its accessibility. As you know Johannesburg is the gateway to all the countries of southern Africa.

In South Africa is the Sabi Sands, which is a collection of approximately 20 private game reserves. The Sabi Sands border the Kruger National Park and there is no fence separating it from the park. In addition, there are no fences between the individual properties of the Sabi Sands, therefore, the animals can move freely throughout the private reserves and the park. Kapama is a fully fenced reserve about 20-30 miles from the NW corner of the Sabi Sands.

Game viewing in the Sabi Sands is excellent year-round. It is, in my opinion, the best general big-five animal viewing area in Africa. For this reason, you may want to consider a three day safari here just to “check off” the big five. I often advice my clients to go to a property in the Sabi Sands early in the trip if it is their first time safari, because the animal viewing is so prolific you can see the big five with 90% certainty on any given day and about 95% certainty in a three night stay. With the big five “checked off”, it is easier to enjoy a safari in the more remote destinations in Botswana, Zimbabwe, or Zambia. If it is your only safari, you leave feeling fulfilled. The Sabi Sands is my strongest recommendation if you only want to have a three day safari and no other (against my advice of 6-10). Going to Kapama like you did last time is similar to this.

The difference in lodges in the Sabi Sands is somewhat a result of the focus they would put on your dining/spa/luxury experience. For example, although the food is very good at MalaMala, it is typically red meat, fowl, fish, and vegetarian offerings served from a buffet. Other lodges may offer food from a menu served on china plates. I have always found food to be adequate and I have always gained weight at any safari lodge (unfortunately), so unless you're a real foodie and/or wine connoisseur I would not let food be the driving factor. The price also is determined by if/if not the lodge has a river and the size of the traversing (game driving) area. June is the dry season so having a permanent water source is important to attract animals. None of the $$ lodges have a river and all of the $$ lodges are relatively small parcels of land. Here are some web sites.

$$ - Sabi Sands ($300+ per person per night)
• Elephant Plains
• Arathusa
• Cheetah Plains
• Nottens
• Honeyguide

$$$ - Sabi Sands ($600+)
• Tinga Narina or Legends
• Lion Sands River Lodge
• MalaMala Main Camp
• Londolozi Founders Camp

$$$$ - Sabi Sands ($900+)
• Lion Sands Ivory Lodge
• MalaMala Rattrays
• Camp Jabulani (elephant back safari NOT in the Sabi Sands)

$$$$$ - Sabi Sands ($1,200+)
• Singita Boulders (or Ebony)
• Londolozi Private Granite

Some of the other major wildlife areas are the Timbavati, Eastern Cape, Manyaleti, Madikwe, Phinda, and private concessions inside the Kruger such as Pafuri and Jocks. There are also fenced reserves like Kapama in the Kruger ecosystem. Phinda is fully fenced but it is quite unique. On my last safari there in 2009 I saw 31 cheetah and five rhino on one game drive.

If you want to do anything other than safaris while in Southern Africa the two most common side excursions are Cape Town and Victoria Falls. Cape Town is excellent in mid August to mid April. It can be a little bit cold in June and July. The later part of May or earlier part of August can be hit or miss. In Cape Town is the Cape Grace; my favorite hotel in the world. There are also many excellent boutique properties at lower price points. Another off the beaten path place is a very nice wildlife reserve approximately 4 hours North of Cape Town in the Cedarburg Mountains called Bushman's Kloof. Not many Americans go here. This would be a good place to learn a little bit about the bushman culture and also enjoy five-star cuisine and South African wines. Bushman’s Kloof is in a new category of accommodation that some call “wellness and spiritual retreat”. It may be very cold here in June.

Victoria Falls makes a good two-day side trip year-round. The water reaches peak flow rate in May and June and minimum flow rate in September and October. I've been there every time a year. I've also been to both sides of the Falls on many occasions. The Falls can be viewed from the Zimbabwe side in the town of Victoria Falls and on the Zambia side in the town of Livingston. I'm taking my wife and teenage daughters to Zimbabwe in July for their third Safari (my 28th). Victoria Falls becomes much more of an obvious choice for a side trip if you are taking a second safari or your only safari in Zambia, Zimbabwe, or Botswana. It makes a natural beginning or ending point for any of the major reserves in these three countries. I do not recommend Victoria Falls unless you are going safari in one of these three countries.

Zambia is an extremely seasonal safari destination with a short peak season from mid-June through late November. Prices are good here but you are right at the front of peak season in June 2012. The wildlife viewing is seasonal and most lodges are shutdown from late November through May. I recommend to most people taking a first-time Safari to Zambia to include one lodge in the Kafue (sometimes) like Kapinga with one Lodge in Lower Zambezi (always) like Sausage Tree and One Lodge in the South Luangwe (always) owned by Bush Camps or Robin Pope Safaris. Six days start at about $4,000 per person including charter flights.

Zimbabwe is the best value (best safari for least money) in all of Africa. There are two world-class national parks here and one massive private conservancy. All three are far away from each other and can offer a complete and balanced safari experience. The first one is Hwange National Park which is approximately a 45 minute charter flight from Victoria Falls. During the worst of Zimbabwe's political isolation most of the lodges in the Park shut down and there's now only four left that Americans go to. With the Renaissance of travel in Zimbabwe over the past 18 months everyone is reopening as fast as possible. Little Makalolo and Davison’s Camp are selling like hotcakes. This is one place I am taking my family this summer. Hwange National Park is a year-round destination but has a prolific peak season from June through November. This is also a big five safari destination. There are some other camps here that we use like Somalisa & the Hide as well. Of all these camps in the Hwange, we recommend visiting only one on any particular trip.

The second major national Park in Zimbabwe is Mana Pools National Park. There also only three lodges open in this Park that Americans visit (that I know of) and the industry is rebuilding now. Ruckomechi is the camp we use the most in this Park and is the second place I'm taking my family this summer. Ruckomechi gives the water experience to juxtapose with Little Makalolo which is an open-plains dry-land safari. Ruckomechi is on the Zambezi River and directly across the water is Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia (Sausage Tree). Here is a video my business partner took at Little Makalolo three months ago so you can get an idea what it would look like during the WORST month of the year: Hwange, Wilderness Safaris. The other two properties we use in Mana Pools are Goliath and Kanga. There is also a Singita property in Zimbabwe called Pamushana which is EXCELLENT. This property offers the same service and luxury as Singita in South Africa but it is 60% less. For Zimbabwe, six days/two lodges start at about $3,000 per person including charter flights.

Botswana has been the most popular Safari destination for the high end of the market in southern Africa for the past 10 years. It gained in popularity as Zimbabwe declined and now commands the position of most in demand and therefore highest price. Botswana is a year-round safari destination but the animal viewing is generally considered to be excellent in mid-June through October and good to very good the rest of the year. You can save about 40% if you get in-and-out by June 16. The prices go up dramatically on June 16 or July 1 at the various lodge chains.

The Okavango Delta and the Chobe national Park ecosystems are the two most popular places to include on an itinerary. In Botswana, the Chobe national Park ecosystem also includes three parcels of private land directly West of the Chobe called the Linyanti, the Kwando, and the Selinda concession. Each of these concessions has multiple private lodges on them. In Botswana we typically recommend safaris on private concessions. The national parks get extremely crowded during the dry season (Jul-Oct) and you run into the same issues as you would in any national Park in Kenya or Tanzania. These issues are uncontrolled number of vehicles at animal sightings, no night drives, and no offloading. All three of these limitations do not exist on private concessions. There are eight permanent lodge chain operators in Botswana. Several of them have enough lodges in the various ecosystems to offer a diverse itinerary. One of my personal favorite lodge chains is Wilderness Safaris. They have over 20 Safari lodges in Botswana including Mombo camp. This particular lodge has been ranked number one safari lodge in Africa for most of the last 10 years by the major US travel magazines. I've been to every Wilderness Safari Lodge in Botswana in the past 18 months along with most of the Sanctuary Lodge camps (owned by Abercrombie and Kent) and the Orient Express camps and &beyond camps. I recommend combining one camp in the Chobe ecosystem with two camps in the Okavango/Moremi ecosystem. The two camps should be different as one of them should offer water activities. Prices start at about $500 per person per night before high season.

Here are some other South Africa only options:
Sabi Sands 3 days + Cape Town 4 days + Phinda 3 days (or 4 if they have stay4pay3)
Sabi Sands 3 days + Pafuri 3 days + Mashatu 3 days
Sabi Sands 3 days + Cape Town 4 days + Mashatu 3 days

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond
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Old Jun 2, 2011, 8:28 am
  #3  
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Wow -- this is fantastic! I'll start to digest and then I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
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Old Jun 2, 2011, 8:40 am
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I just noted you are from Philadelphia. Great place! I used to go there for the Army/Navy game when I was a midshipman.

If you want to meet a good safari planner face to face, I can happily endorse the services of the following “competitors” of my company based in the PHL area. I know both these companies and the people that run them and they will plan an excellent Southern Africa safari for you. Both Julian and Natasha are ex-South Africans. Planning a safari in an office face to face is the best way to go when possible.

Julian Harrison owns Premier Tours. He is the author of Fodors guide book for Southern Africa and also listed as one of the top six Africa specialists according to Conde Nast magazine. I know Julian quite well. He is a Southern Africa expert.
[email protected]
http://www.premiertours.com/

Natasha Smith also lives in PHL area and runs the Africa department for Africa Answers. The company is based in Bellevue WA but she works in PHL. Natasha is also a friend and used to be the Africa department head at Swain Tours in PHL. She is also a Southern Africa expert.
http://www.africaanswers.com/
[email protected] (don’t have her work email).

Craig Beal – owner – Travel Beyond
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Old Jun 2, 2011, 3:28 pm
  #5  
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Incredibly helpful! And, yes, I am in Philadelphia.

I will start seriously looking into this after my upcoming work trip to Durban, although unfortunately I am not able to add on any playtime on this trip.
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Old Jun 4, 2011, 5:35 pm
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Thank you

SafariCraig,

I have just started safari planning and have found the options bewildering. Thank you for the overview. It is the most helpful thig I have read.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 7, 2011, 10:24 am
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I have just returned from a 3 week trip to Zim, Zam, Bots and SA and I have to say Hwange NP was incredible! We stayed at The Hide, which was not mentioned by SafariCraig, but was very nice. There were several other American couples there at the time we visited. Excellent food and lovely accomodations.

We also visited Chobe NP and quite enjoyed it. We saw so many animals and really liked the fact that we could do a river cruise to see animals and a more traditional safari in the same day. As nice as Chobe was, the seclusion of Hwange made it my favorite part of the trip and I would highly recommend a visit.
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Old Jun 7, 2011, 5:00 pm
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It is hard not to love Zimbabwe. I am glad you had a good time. I am taking my family next month.

I only have one correction: I did mention the Hide in my post above (ha ha).

Have a great day.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
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Old Jun 8, 2011, 8:43 am
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Originally Posted by SafariCraig
It is hard not to love Zimbabwe. I am glad you had a good time. I am taking my family next month.

I only have one correction: I did mention the Hide in my post above (ha ha).

Have a great day.

Craig Beal - owner - Travel Beyond
OMG! I read your post several times I can't believe I missed it! (Too much time looking at a computer screen I suppose!)

We can't wait to return to Zimbabwe, it was such a wonderful experience. I would love to do Mana Pools at some point after hearing so many great reviews.

Enjoy Hwange with your family! I'm sure it will be an incredible experience!
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Old Jul 3, 2011, 4:02 pm
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African Safari

The best way to do an African Safari is with people who have lived there and know the best places to go.
Africa is a huge and wonderful place. I do suggest South Africa for traveling cause it is stable and full of exciting opportunities. I have been to Africa multiple times since the early 90's and have had great experience and some rough one's but now days i know what to look out for and avoid and what to make sure happens.

Go with a travel company that provides you a safe trip. One that goes with your expectations and that is in your spending limit. Don't just go with a company that is cheap cause you'll be losing some great perks when you could spend a little more and get so much more.

Go to Kruger National Park, it is full of animals and things to do. Go on a ranger walk and see where the animals walk. When you go with a tour guide, he will know where the best places are and take you there. With them you will learn more about the animals/area and see more animals. They will also make sure you are safe at all time while you have an exciting adventure.

I have gone with Dark Continent Explorer for the past 9 years and they never fail to show me something new and take me on yet another great adventure.

I recommend you check out their site it's http://africanphotosafaris.org
They also have a page that has info all about Kruger it's http://africanphotosafaris.org/kruger-national-park/
If you have any Africa questions i'll be happy to answer them for you.
hope you have a wonderful time when you go!
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Old Jul 3, 2011, 5:31 pm
  #11  
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Other places to consider, IMO, might be (given the biology interests here, not necessarily high end accommodations,) Botswana and / or Namibia with third generation Barnard family guides Penduka Safaris. Accommodations are in pleasant tented safaris with sices and cooks, and you are in the wilderness 24/7 rather than making forays to areas near inhabited locales.

If you were more independent, I'd recommend renting a vehicle in Windhoek and making bookings for government rest camps online in Namibia - Etosha is a splendid place to see wildlife, though it is Namib Desert, and quite well suited to independent travellers.

Kenya? Meh! IMO it's a loss now - unless you spend some time in the privately owned safari areas people are preserving the environment, game and working collaboratively with local tribal people. Otherwise, you will be spending a lot of money to stay in luxe places with forays twice a day to olook at game, possibly surrounded by other viewers. And the Maasai Mara, well, it has, according to many reports, lost most of its game - still quite a bit, but not at all as it used to be.

Tanzania has some much wilder places, and the Serengeti is the main area for game viewing (the Maasai Mara is the northern extension of the Serengeti, bets in July - August). Of course, there are also other splendid game parks in Tanzania - and it's much more off the tourist caravan trail than Kenya. (We were fortunate enough to travel Tanzania with Richard Estes, the mammalogist, back in the day when one could camp on the floor of Ngorongoro Crater, which we did.)
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 8:16 am
  #12  
 
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I've been researching a botswana safari and i'm a bit overwhelmed and confused.

Can anyone help me with these questions?

1) There are standard tours (gaps, gecko etc) that are mobile safaris and then you can get a mobile tour from a tour operator - which tends to be double the price - maybe i'm missing something, but what is the difference?

2) I've got quotes for mobile tours and lodge tours and I can't quite figure out the difference in the pricing. I found one website which lists the 2010 rack rates for lodges and they seemed to line up approximately with the lodge tours, but the mobile tour i have no reference point. (The mobile tour was from &Beyond if that helps)
I don't know what the price difference should be.
I don't know what the actual difference is.
I'm not sure what the difference between tent, "tent" and lodge is besides the fact the lodge is likely not made out of canvas.
The lodge safari's seem to involve flying and then safari drives(twice daily i think, but then some of the quotes don't specify that).
The mobile one I'm guessing just involves driving from campsite to campsite?
Can anyone clarify this?

Really what I would like to know is:
Which is better mobile or lodge?
We have limited vacation - we might have time for a 9 day safari if we see nothing else on our trip.
We want to see lots of animals.
We don't want to be around tons of other people.
We were thinking about going in may to botswana (i read that's mid season).
I read that the lodges tend to have safari drives as part of the package - so morning, evening(as long as you are on a private reserve) - i'm not sure if mobile safaris have the drives as well or whether you just see the animals as you are driving from campsite to campsite.
I've read than some of these lodges have "tree houses" where you can watch the animals at night - but perhaps camping you can get the same experience?
I have no idea what the difference between camping, "camping" and lodges is I can't really say preference on accomodation besides the fact that we don't camp at home. I don't mind sleeping in a tent and if that gives me a better safari experience I'm all for it. I want clean toilet facilities - but I have been in clean compost toilets and dirty hotel toilets so again i'm not sure if "camping" or lodge matters.
As for the lodge facilities - we are there to see animals, not go to the spa, go swimming or have luxury dinners. Hey if the food is good i'm all for it or if its 35oC and they have a pool I'm all for it - but I got the impression that may isn't super hot anyway so I'm not sure how much of the lodge facilities we would care about....but then again I have no idea what we would be missing.

If anyone has any advice that would be great.
I feel a bit overwhelmed with the amount of information and I'm rather confused right now.

thanks
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Old Jul 25, 2011, 4:05 pm
  #13  
 
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Mobile Safaris and Lodge-based safaris are different animals. It's hard to say which one is better because that speaks to your own preferences.

Lodge-based safaris in Botswana are almost always all-inclusive. You get all meals and activities included in your rate. Activities are usually at least 2 per day - one morning activity and one evening activity. The main activity is game drives in a 4x4 vehicle. You'll have a guide and tracker/spotter in the vehicle for about 4 hours in the bush looking for animals. These vehicles are usuallly shared with other people staying at the camp. Ideally, you won't have more than 4 guests in a vehicle - everyone with a "window" seat.

Other activities, depending on the type and location of camp, may include mokoro rides, fishing, game walks, and boat excursions. Most camps I've been to tend to be as accommodating as they can for guests' desires in terms of timing of drives and length, but have to balance against other guests, logistics, and safety.

Transfers between camps depend on distance and terrain. If it's far, you fly in a small bush plane. If it's close, you can transfer via vehicle or even boat. Flights between camps are usually not included in the lodge rate.

The accommodations are variable. Tent can mean anything from a pup tent to a rather luxurious and substantial structure that may have a scrap of canvas somewhere. You'll have to review the specific camp/lodge to figure out what they offer. I like the following website for that information:

www.africatravelresource.com
www.expertafrica.com

Yes, some lodges do have "hides" or "blinds" where one can watch for animals. And, some do offer overnight sleepouts at these blinds. I don't know which lodges in Botswana offer these, but I know of several in Zambia and South Africa that do. Whether you can get the same experience on a mobile safari depends on the campsite and how far in the wilderness you are.

Mobile safaris are generally self-contained trips where you travel from campsite to campsite, doing game drives inbetween. The classic example is that you get picked up by your mobile safari operator who has at least 2 vehicles - one for you and the other guests, and a large truck to hold all of the camping and cooking supplies. The truck races ahead to that day's campground and gets set up while you go off game driving in the other vehicle with your guide. Usually, you do game drives enroute between campsites, though, depending on your route, you may have days where you're simply transferring and not seeing much. Once you've completed your days game drives, you arrive at camp to find everything set up, and someone doing the cooking for you.

Mobile safaris can vary quite a bit depending on a number of things: the relative luxuriousness of accommodations - from simple tents to rather large and luxurious tents; private safari with just you and your companions vs. shared safari where you're traveling with others who have bought a seat on the truck; full service safari where you don't have to lift a finger to "participatory" safaris where you have to set up your own tent and do some camp chores. Quality of the guides, route, season, and campsites - all of these affect the price of the safari.

Mobile safaris are also usually in national parks while many lodges are in private reserves. National parks are great and offer excellent game viewing, but you share them with other mobile safari operators and self-drive vacationers. Also, you're subject to national park rules, so no off-road driving and probably no night drives.

Private reserves allow the lodges to go off road, drive at night, and the concessions are usually only for that lodge or a couple of other lodges with traversing rights.

Will you see lots of animals? That's so entirely variable that you won't get reliable answer. It depends on the area, the season, the rains, and how the animals happen to be feeling on a given day. Places with reliably great game density also happen to be the most expensive.


Given your limited time, and I'd recommend a lodge-based safari, unless you want to spend the 9 days on safari. If you're limited by budget, then perhaps a short mobile safari is good enough. With lodges, you get exclusiveness, comfort, and potentially greater chance at good game density, but at a price. Most people do mobile safaris because they're cheaper and because they enjoy the camping experience. And, I generally agree - it's not a real safari unless you spend some time under canvas.
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Old Aug 1, 2011, 11:10 am
  #14  
 
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thanks escog
that was a very useful post!
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Old Aug 2, 2011, 11:22 am
  #15  
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I am so appreciative of the great information here; thanks for your great contributions, Craig, escog, Russ...

What is the CW on the best place these days to encounter African Hunting / Spotted Dogs (Lycaon pictus)?
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