After a bit of a sleep in I filled up on another Ibis breakfast before finding our driver from the day before whom we had arranged a drive to Ouidah with, or so we thought. We had assumed the 30K CFA round trip would get us a trip to Ouidah and visit of Ganvie on Lake Nokoue. In reality he only meant he would drive us toward Ouidah to get us to the lake.
N.b.: While we didn't visit, Ouidah is a small town west of Cotonou best known for its Voodoo Python Temple along with its historical ties to slave trade.
This morning's iteration of breakfast
The drive to Ganvie
Early morning nap
Our drive took us through Abomey and after 45 minutes we pulled in to Ganvie, considered Africa's largest lake village. Expecting a bit of a tourist show (like other lake villages I've encountered) I wasn't surprised when we pulled up and a boat driver was eagerly waiting to take us out. His price of 5500 CFA seemed set in stone, but we were able to barter on his requested 10K CFA additional guide fee. In the end we paid 22K CFA total for the three of us with his English guide services. (Plus another 1K for the driver to “give to the villagers” as thanks for letting us take photos.)
Boat docks
Loading the boats with goods
Only tourists get an outboard, everyone else a paddle
Once on the lake we passed schools, churches, farms for both produce and fish, a hotel and of course, plenty of authentic art shops. Many passing boats avoided letting us get a photo, but those that did really told the story of lake life. Better than my trip on the Tonlé Sap and other like lakes, but even without seeing a fellow tourist, I still felt scammed. It really made me question if I made the right decision to spend two nights at Inle Lake, Myanmar.
Thinking
Row, row, row your boat
Setting the fishing nets
Riding in the aft
Keeping cool
Low rider
Water delivery
Hotel Ganvie
Part of me wanted to spend a night here
It even had a light bulb in each room
Unhappy
Town's biggest building
Vernonique: the name for a French rocket prototype
Picking out some art
Even a mosque in town
Sailing back
Gone fishing
Smiles
Back ashore we began the drive back to Cotonou (after deciding we didn't like the upcharge offer for a ride to Ouidah). Just before our hotel we passed the Monument de la Place des Martyrs. Built by North Korea in 1977 it has been featured on a slew of postage stamps, but is one of just many North Korean constructions across Africa.
Monument de la Place des Martyrs
North Korean handy work
For the afternoon we decided to explore the expat district and had lunch at Livingstone, which was across the street from the DRC Embassy. Three pizzas and two 'giraffes' of beer for 33K CFA later and we wandered down the street looking for a local watering hole. Our first stop was a bit seedy, but it had chairs and large 500 CFA cold beers so it satisfied my needs. Some local kids were in the shop next door and one had a shirt that I wanted, but wouldn't budge on my offer for 4K CFA. I decided a used (small) shirt wasn't worth the 10K CFA he wanted. We wrapped up after a few drinks and stumbled back to our bar across from the Ibis for a few last drinks and chicken and rice before enjoying one last great sleep in Benin.
Maybe we didn't pick the best route
A little tease for our next adventure
Who doesn't like a good tower
Pizza of the sea
Home of the 500 CFA beer
Bartering with the local kids while out of focus
Finding our way back home
Chicken and rice
N.b.: When planning, I had originally suggested we fly Arik Air out of COO with a quick layover in Lagos before continuing on to Accra, Ghana. I was outvoted because of the unreliability of Arik and the general awfulness of transiting Lagos, but fortunately so. The COO>LOS flight wound up being three hours delayed and we would have enjoyed the evening in Lagos! Score one for the opposition.