Armenia drew the short end of the stick when it came to planning and today was the result of that lack of planning. Originally I had considered a relaxing day near Lake Sevan or Garni but I assumed weather would be restrictive. Another option was some of monasteries surrounding the city, but those just didn’t interest me all that much. Ultimately, after finally sleeping in a bit, I decided to try something I seldom do while traveling, just relax and enjoy the city. My first order of business was hunt down a choreg (braided sweet egg bread) for breakfast, but that proved more difficult than I expected. In the daily market at Vernisagge Park I found a ham and cheese pastry, which did the trick. The market was just gearing up for the day, but I suspect it is most popular on the weekends. After a quick stop at the most elegant post office, near Republic Square, for some stamps, I impulsively hailed a taxi and decided to check out Erebuni Fortress. Or so I hoped.


Breakfast for 200 dram (~$.40)


Armenian Post Office

Even though the 15-minute taxi ride was less than $2 it turned out to be a waste of money. On this lovely Monday morning, Erebuni Fortress was closed. I had searched for details earlier in the day, but other than some historical facts, not much exists regarding the facility. The fort was built in 782 BC atop Arin Berd hill to serve as a military outpost overlooking the city and river valley of the Urartu Empire. The Uratians were a prehistoric kingdom covering parts of modern-day Armenia, Iran and Turkey. The fort from what I could see through the fence seems rather primitive, but given that it’s nearly 3,000 years old, was well preserved and if nothing else provided a nice view over Yerevan. Fortunately after poking around the complex a bit, I found a taxi back to Republic Square. I wondered around a bit before deciding to enjoy a local kebab restaurant.


Erebuni Fortress entrance


Best view of the fortress from the outside


Looking toward Yerevan from the base of the fort


Fancy taxi meter/mirror


Yerevan Railway station


Does this count for a chain in Yerevan?


The talented Republic Square photographer/weight guesser


Khachkar shop; making commemorative or memorial steles from stone


Lunch at Anteb


Ayran


Urfa kebab for 2800 dram (~$5.80)

Decent meal although a bit overpriced for Yerevan. It certainly made me miss the ridiculously cheap koobideh kebab in Iran on every corner. I slowly walked back toward my place scouting out somewhere to buy some beer and wine to take home for gifts.


More love for Paris

After picking up some pomegranate wines I headed back out in search of a lamejun. These mini pizzas were staples at most street-side vendors throughout the city. For 300 dram or just over 50 cents I had a pretty filling meal while watching the action along a major street.


Lamejun stall


Lamejun

With a few hours to kill until sundown I set off in search of some beer. I found a bar with decent reviews but when I arrived they were powerwashing the floors and the bartender offered to let me drink in a back room. No thanks. I continued down the street until I found a quiet wine shop near Surp Zoravor Astvatsatsin Church. It is known as one of the oldest churches in Yerevan.


Surp Zoravor Astvatsatsin Church


Soirée Wine shop


Still warm enough for a glass of wine outside


One of many betting stores along with even more street kiosks for gambling

A few wines later it was, you guessed it, food time. I had heard good things about a local traditional Yerevan chain. They had four locations across the city and one was very nearby. Around 18:30 the place was nearly empty but I was told there were no tables until 21:30. When I questioned why I couldn’t have one of the many other tables they suggested I come back in an hour and they will seat me. Not wanting to wait, I decided to make my way toward of one of the other locations. Quite a walk later I discovered this location was not yet open. Frustrated and hungry I swallowed my pride and went back an hour later as promised but they said they were booked for the night. I explained I had been told come back in an hour for a table. After maybe ten minutes they found me a table and I was able to enjoy an excellent meal. Strangely, the place was never completely full at any given point. I started off with a glass of pomegranate wine and a very delicious plate of buckwheat. I don’t recall ever eating buckwheat before, but it was very flavorful. For my main I ordered Khurjin, which translates to saddlebag. This saddlebag, once torn open, was full of lamb, onions, pepper and plenty of spices. To cleanse the palate I enjoyed a glass of homemade compote to wash down the ~$12 meal.


Also known as Pandok Yerevan


Buckwheat


The saddlebag


Compote remains

I casually walked back home via Northern Avenue one last time and called it a night before my early morning flights to hopefully get me to Batumi, Georgia on an airline I wasn’t fully convinced even existed.