Originally Posted by
moondog
I'm envious of you for pursing you adventures beyond Kashi. Since I showed up 2 days after my friends, they had already been up and back by the time we connected (I don't they got as far as you, but they told me the lakes were really nice). Next time I go out there, my plan is to make it all the way Karachi, and fly back in comfort. By time I make it, I'll be in serious need of food that I like, but that's all part of the game.
Speaking of food, John's Cafe is a pretty clever business because they sell items that we can tolerate (basic American fare; okay quality), and have set up shops at many of the logical stopping points. Eating local is a must; the thing is "lamb overload" is a serious problem; balance it with a club sandwich, and you'll be content at the very least.
Well, it's an epic trip, one of the most unique I've taken. If heading for Pakistan, just make sure you plan for right time of year, check road passability (vs flood out) all the way to Gilgit on Pakistan side, and make sure border is open--sometimes for security reasons it shuts to all but non-local traders and truckers.
John's Cafe is a bit of a racket, and it's Han run. While I dealt with them in Turpan for transportation for expediency (food was a sidebar), I did not visit them at all in Kashgar nor any other location on this trip. My transportation needs were dealt with by a more preferred Uighur agency. A few years ago, I had friends (Beijing expats) set up a daytrip to Karakul and a daytrip for camel/desert visit through John's in Kashgar, and they were so-so on the experience and arrangements. And for food, there are simply way too many better places to eat in Kashgar--both Chinese and Uighur. For Western, the Caravan Cafe closed awhile back, but the Karakorum Cafe has opened nearby and with comfy a/c, wifi, cold drinks, and food, it serves the purpose.
I hear you on the lamb bit. It's not my favorite meat, although the quality you get in Xinjiang is much better than in Beijing and I'm pretty big on the grilled
chuanr (kebabs). I managed quite a bit of beef in Xinjiang, and only a little chicken--which is my normal protein mainstay in the East. As I said way upthread, once you get to mid-Gansu heading west, start giving up on seeing pork!
Originally Posted by
PTravel
Great posts, JieJie. I look forward to each installment. Thanks!
You're welcome. This entire Silk Road trip ended up being a true journey of a lifetime.