[ron-val-ron]

Nope, didn't lie. And yup, I did agree to pay it. (But what choice did I have really? Glad I know the Web services/help trick now, tho, thanks for that.)

I just clicked the "I was dissatisfied with the service" button on the Amex site. I think it's kosher to agree to pay the fee when there is no other way to make the booking but to then go back later and dispute it because I was dissatisfied with the mere/sheer fact that I had to pay it.